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GET YOUR ASIAN BUFFET FIX
Cram It!: Nearly 11 years in Athens, and I had
never been to one of the Chinese buffets in
town, despite being told by numerous folks that
their brother, father, husband, etc. was seriously
into the all-you-can-eat snow-crab legs on such-
and-such day of the week. The recent remodeling
of China Star Super Buffet (3567 Atlanta Hwy.,
in the corner of the former Target shopping cen
ter near Timothy Road, 706-316-3382) to add
barbecue, hibachi and sushi to the offerings and
a healthy appetite despite the 100-degree heat
provided some pretty good motivation. The con
clusion? While China Star can't hold a candle to
the warehouse-sized Chinese/ Korean buffet res
taurants in the suburbs of Atlanta, it's more than
just a good deal. At S6.50 for all-you-can-eat
lunch, it certainly is that, but there are plenty of
buffet-style gorgefest establishments that aren't
worth going to, even if you need to carb up be
fore a big race or continue your training for the
International Federation of Competitive Eating.
It would be wise, when choosing among the
different buffet areas, to stay away from the
section that piles up pizza and fried American
doodads and probably the dessert bar as well
(soft-serve ice cream, melon, pudding), but those
items will excite your children. Instead, move
toward the small selection of dumplings (porky,
fried, with shrimp), the hibachi preparations
(simple but tender), and anything that looks
mysterious. Note that "spicy" really does mean
spicy; that the crayfish, while whole and hot, are
not all that great; that the hot and sour soup
should be avoided; that the whole garlic fried
fish is not worth the trouble; and that some of
the noodles can be too soft.
Still, it's not all sesame chicken and
Mongolian beef. The sushi is as decent as at most
places and sticks to things like California rolls.
The vegetables (corn, asparagus, green beans)
are fairly fresh and simply prepared. In other
words, it's quite a step up from mall Chinese.
China Star may not be a superlative gourmet
experience, but it might be the best way in town
to get your fix for Chinese without either spend
ing a kabillion dollars to sample as much as you
want to or being forced to consume sauces that
could put you in a diabetic coma. The guy walk
ing around with a microphone provides entertain
ment, though he seems only to be announcing
what's new on the buffet, and the waitresses
even speak a little Spanish. China Star is open
for lunch and dinner every day, takes credit
cards, offers take-out and also serves a la carte if
your pants are too tight.
Bang It!: As you read here, Ernie Battinelli has
sold his downtown below-street-level sandwich
shop to new folks who've renamed it Cafe Kirk's
Underground (154 College Ave., under Marvin's
Shoe Service, 706-355-3002), but not much else
has changed. On a recent afternoon, waiting
for a sandwich to be put together, inconsistent
banging noises, like someone banging on the
floor with a hammer, echoed from upstairs.
Apparently, the people at Kirk's (and the people
before them) iisten to this all day long, due to
the refashioning and repairing of shoes that go
on above their heads, and yet they are sweet and
pleasant. They even say they're used to it.
The menu hasn't changed much, with a selec
tion of simpler deli sandwiches, some fancier
"combination" and "cafe special* sandwiches,
some salads, hot dogs and soup, and most of
the business is understandably to-go. The space
is cute, but it's tiny, hot and, you know, noisy.
The meats are decent, but the bread could use
some more substance, or at least some toasting.
If you've been to any of Ernie's places, you know
the deal. Kirk's is only open for lunch weekdays
currently, but is considering reopening at night
to take advantage of the drunken appetite; they
take credit cards and do catering.
What Up?: The Taco Stand clearly has people
in the kitchen with a drive to branch out, and
while it doesn't always work, the ambition is ap
preciated. Barbacoa (barbecue beef) tacos have
appeared on the menu, prepared with onions and
cilantro or spicy red-cabbage coleslaw or both,
and while the meat is a leetle dry, this writer
is firmly in favor of stuffing more things into
tacos. Not only is J.B. of J.B.'s Polish Sausage
(not the same J.B. as the J.B. of J.B.'s Ribs and
BBQ) continuing to do a brisk business at his
stand outside the 40 Watt, but he's adding items.
According to the sign taped to the cart, each
Friday will feature a different option, from fried
chicken to fish and chips and more. I can hardly
imagine a more perfect late-night food than the
classic JB dog with Comeback Sauce, but this
flourishing should (and will) be encouraged.
Hillary Brown
Got local food info? Email: food@flagpole com.
Daily Special
by Donna L. Bar stow
TrUsTutAiA, um^A u RJ.
TO CELEBRATE, *
40LB. BOXES OF FRESH
APALACHICOLA
OYSTERS
ON SALE FOR JUST $ 29 j
THfe ENTIRE MONTH OF SEPTEMBER J
RETAIL
MARKET:
TUES-SAT
11-7
/ 1021
/ BAXTER ST.
ATHENS
706-549-3701
HAhou* /come EARLY STAY LATE
A\C
ARTS & EVENTS
AUGUST 22, 2007 • FLAGPOLE.COM 15