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SEAFOOD
SURPRISE
Hidden Charms: The replacement of Walt Light's
most recent project on Baxter Street with a
branch of Gnat's Landing (1080 Baxter St., 706-
850-5858), a seafood shack from St. Simon's
Island, didn't bode especially well, nor was I
looking forward to yet another meal of battered
Shrimp and fried appetizers. I do occasionally
get jaded, and usually, just about the time that
happens, the sun breaks through the clouds. Yes,
Gnat's Landing is plastered with signs on the
inside that make jokes about crab testicles and
pirate booty. Yes, it's trying very hard to recreate
a beach atmosphere. Yes, we're still landlocked in
Athens, meaning it's a lot harder to get quality
seafood.
Basically, going to Gnat's Landing made me
realize how far my standards had fallen. Their
fried shrimp both looks and tastes like shrimp,
which shouldn't even be notable, and yet it is.
There's the sort of basic commitment to qual
ity here that puts one at ease. A seafood and
corn chowder with chunks of andouille could
be spicier, but, again, everything tastes like it's
supposed to, like the ingredients it's made up
of, and it's hard to convey how rare that is in
a franchise environment. The seafood platter
contains the aforementioned fried shrimp (which
actually have a snap when bitten into), scallops
(sweet, lightly grilled), fried oysters (passable),
and your choice of grouper, mahi-mahi, crab
cakes and a couple of other choices, either fried,
grilled or blackened. On the recommendation of
the staff, I went for blackened grouper, steeling
myself for the usual piece of white fish charred
beyond recognition, this being what passes for
‘ blackened" most of the time. And yet, no. This,
too, was fairly carefully done, the spices not
overwhelming the sweet, simple flavor of the
fish itself. You know that face that means, "Huh.
I was wrong and now I am nicely surprised,"
where you cock your head to the side and press
your lips together? I made that face a lot. The
"gnat taters," sort of a cross between mashed
and twice-baked, minus the stuffing back into
the skins, flavored with sour cream, cheese and
bacon, don't overdo it, yet are plenty rich. And
the coleslaw. I would go back just for the cole
slaw, and the restaurant seems to recognize that
it's one of their signature items. Made, as far
as I can tell, without mayonnaise, with a great
crunch to the cabbage that's accented by slivers
of almond and a few broken-up ramen noodles,
it's zingy, healthy-tasting and delicious. It seems
like less of a compliment than it is to say all the
food is recognizable, but in the present age, it
shouldn't be taken lightly. Gnat's Landing takes
credit cards and has a full bar.
Barbecue Beat: How do I call myself an Athenian
without ever having been to Fresh Air Bar-B-
Que (1110 Hull Rd., 706-546-6060)? Well, the
previous holder of the Athens Banner-Heralds
reader's choice award for best 'cue just always
seemed to be out of my way. A recent excur
sion to the Department of Driver Services put it
just around the corner, but, despite the recom
mendations from many an eater, it still wasn't
the promised land for barbecue. I've made clear
my preference for pulled pork over chopped,
as the latter tends to turn into baby food and
one encounters the occasional chunk of fat or
gristle, and not only is Fresh Air's pork chopped,
but the coleslaw and stew seem to have been
run through a food mill. Opt for the sandwich,
which reacts well to this format of 'cue, and do
your best to pry off the top bun to douse it with
sauce, either mild (not really very) or hot (yow-
za! Peppery). The spicy/ sweet is a little thick for
my taste, but still interesting. Fresh Air is run
by sweethearts and has a great family feeling.
It also runs some great specials on whole-family
meals and tailgating packages and takes credit
cards. But I'll keep questing.
What Up?: Smokin' Stevie's, in Watkinsville, is
closing its stationary operation but attempt
ing to keep its mobile unit (set up in front of
ABC Package on game weekends) and catering
division open. Level 131, a new dance club, is
now open in the space that housed Insomnia;
check out their myspace page at www.myspace.
com/levell31athens. Knuckleheads, a res
taurant and bar, is coming to the former Walt
Light's space on 441. Dos Palmas has opened
on Atlanta Highway near the intersection with
Timothy Road. Other recent openings include
Mirko Pasta at Town Center in Watkinsville (from
the former owner of Bischero); the new Mellow
Mushroom on Clayton Street; and The Sandbar,
a new bar on College Avenue, just off College
Square. Repent, which opened just a year ago
on Washington Street in the old Lunch Paper '
space, has closed down. See Threats & Promises
for more info.
Hillary Brown
Daily Special by Donna L. Bar stow
It s your roommates birthday.
Make history, get them something they won’t return.
706.353.1421
www.downtownathensga.com
DOWNTOWN
athens it*inhere
www.downtownath9nsga.coa
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.354.8631 • free gift wrapping j
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rriRACCO K ('.If IS
1086 Baxter St
706.549.6360
open Mon-S«t 10am-11pm
Sun 12pn»-6pm
CIGARS • PIPES • TOBACCOS
• INCENSE • HAND BLOWN
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7065468787
289 College Ave • Under Perkin* Deck
NEW SHIPMENT OF
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SERVING THE BEST FOOD
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2455 W. Broad St
Next to Howard Johnson's
706-548.5663
WWW.LACAZUELA.CO/Vl
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SEPTEMBER 19, 2007 • FLAGPOLE.COM 15