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SEAFOOD SOPAS AND BANGIN' BLTS
Switcheroo: Clearly, La Rosita (840 Hull Rd.,
Suite B, 706-543-8854), a taqueria and tort-
eria that adjoins the Quick Spot gas station on
Hull Road near its junction with Highway 29,
was preceded by a more mainstream-America-
friendly eatery, whose paintings promising
"hot dawgs" and subs still adorn the windows.
Much of the crowd that frequents it doesn't
seem to have noticed the change, either,
although it is considerable.
La Rosita has an impressively large menu,
especially for a gas station taqueria, which
includes a lot of seafood options (including
whole fried fish and wonderful-sounding sopas
made with squid, octopus, shrimp and oys
ters). Some of the staff is native to Georgia,
and some have a little more trouble translat
ing items like jaiva (crab) and tinga (conveyed
as "chicken," but seemingly more about the
preparation of the meat, which involves spici
ness, redness, shredding and stewing). The
tostada with tinga was piled high and, while
as difficult to eat as tostadas generally are,
was worth the effort. Tacos are often the best
thing to order, as you can get an idea of the
kitchen's range and execution of a number
of cooking methods and ingredients, not to
mention obtain more variety at a very low
price. La Rosita's meats are deeply flavored,
although the texture isn’t always perfect. The
chunks of iengua (tongue) are tender, but a
little big, and I tend to prefer my carnitas on
the crispy side. Still, the al pastor was quite
tasty and the chorizo is worth the trip. Spicy
and fatty, with a flavor that blooms with
chewing, it certainly needs the double tortilla
it's encased in. La Rosita is open for lunch and
dinner every day and takes credit cards.
Choo Choo: At long last, the space at the
Pulaski-facing end of the Leathers Building
has been occupied by a restaurant, something
that's been in the works for, literally, years.
Trax (675 Pulaski St., 706-543-6011) makes
good use of the beautiful interior and view,
adding some sound dampening materials on
the underside of the second story, but not
covering up the glorious view of the railroads
and beyond that one can take advantage of
by walking up the stairs. The place is friendly
to those who want to hang out, study or
play Scrabble in a quieter environment than
downtown, but the menu could use a little
tweaking. It's not super ambitious to begin
with, though there are some nice touches
(roasted chipotles and avocado on the BLT,
which doesn't skimp on the bacon), but there
are also some indications that it is a new
business.
The bread, for example, needs upgrading.
It's a crucial part of a sandwich, especially
one as simple as chicken salad, and if it's dry,
it can ruin the experience. The "fruit cup,"
similarly, should be made with higher-quality
ingredients, even if it is a good option for a
child. The tomato basil panini, while refresh
ing, should perhaps be hot if listed under
"hot food." And the service, as often happens
in Athens, is sweet and enthusiastic, but not
exactly efficient. Nonetheless, the young
people running the show seem willing to dive
in and learn, and there's no question the res
taurant/coffee shop (which makes a point of
using French press) is a boon to the growing
neighborhood. Trax is open 7 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Monday through Wednesday, 7 a.m. to 10 p.m.'
Thursday through Saturday, and 8 a.m. to 4
p.m. Sunday, and takes credit cards.
What Up? Signs announcing a restaurant
named El Azteca coming soon have appeared
on the exterior of the former Tres Amigos
on Oconee Street. A Smoothie King is about
ready to open in the Green Acres Shopping
Center on Barnett Shoals Road. Your Pie
focuses on customizable personal-size brick-
oven pizzas and is open in the Beechwood
Shopping Center, on the T.J. Maxx side.
Mama's Boy has obtained its beer and wine
license, due to some sensible actions on the
part of the Athens-Clarke County Commission,
and is open for dinner Thursday through
Sunday. Taqueria el Sol de Zacatecas, next to
the gas station on Tallassee Road, is now just
El Sol and is under new management. Just
Pho and More is open on Baxter Street.
Hillary Brown
Daily Special
by Donna L. Barstow
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SALON, INC.
2440 West Broad St.
706.548.2188
FIVE POINTS
706-543-2334
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