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4 THE SOUTHERN WORLD, JUNE 15,1882. ^jjortiwUttrnl department. Fruit Dr/luf. The question of whuttodo with the peach crop of the South has been exciting much interest, and satisfactory arrangements have been made with Railroads and Express com panies for shiping the early crop. The rates secured, however, will not justify distant shipments at the prices that will be attained for the main crop, which ripens in July and August. There are only two ways left by which we may utilize the heavy crop. The first is that of canning. This industry has not heretofore secured a foothold in the ex treme South, as far as we know, though we see no reason why fruit canning establish ments might not be profitably established at. several points in Georgia and also in other States. Hut oven if these were accomplished facts, a very large portion of the raw mate rial would be unavailable on account of dis tance from the point of operations and for other reasons. The only resource left, is dry ing or evaporating. Appliances for evaporat ing fruit by furnace heat have not been us yet generally used in the country, the man ufacturers and agents having been discour aged by the repeated failures of the fruit crop that has occurred in the past few yours. But in the meantime some improvements have been made in their construction, and a considerable reduction in prices. We learn that evaporators capable of turning out one bushel of dried fruit euch twenty four hours may be bad now for thirty dollars, and larger ones in less proportion. There is no doubt of the fact that tbe evaporated article is superior, in severul re- s|>ects, to the sun-dried product. Evaporated fruit has undergone no deleterious chunge by the ojieration, but lias simply been de prived of its wator at a moderate heat—too low for cooking. The color is light, the fruit has been made, perhaps, a little sweeter, and is entirely free from the eggs of insects— tlio seeds of destruction. Where a farmer has forty or fifty bushels of fruit, which he cannot dispose of other wise to better advantage, it will pay to pur chase an evaporator of approved construc tion. There are many, however, who will rely on the old way of drying in the sun. This labor has usually devolved upon the “ wife and children,” and such help as was convenient about the house of the farmer, and little if any appliances are provided to facilitate the work. A few pieces of plank, old door-shutters and boards of all sorts and shapes, are made to do duty as dryers, well illustrating the careless indifference of the average Southern farmer to such minor sources of food supply and money. To all such wo wish to describe and recommend a cheap, simple dryer that will be found to greatly facilitate the work of drying fruit in the sun and, at the same time, give better results in the quality of the product. The figure represents a frame made of light strips of pine, say one inch and a half square, the frame being six feet by three in size, and the side pieces project ing six or eight inches beyond the end pieces. This frame should be covered with yard-wide homespun of cheap quality, cost ing only six or eight cents a yard. There should be as many of these dryers as can be covered with the cut fruit in one day by the force to be employed. Directions for their use are hardly necessary. It will appear at a glance, that tbe fruit will dry more readily on the thin cloth, as the air can circulate freely underneath. On the approach of a shower of rain, or night, the frames can be stacked one above another to tbe number of a dozen or more, and eithercarried to shelter or covered with a light portable roof. For ordinary domestic use fruit dried as above is but little inferior to the eva|iorated. All sun-dried fruit should be exposed to the heat of an oven for a short time, or until thoroughly hot, in order to kill the eggs of insects which will have been deposited dur ing the process of drying. If then stored in close paper bags or boxes they will not again be liable to injury from worms. As to machines for paring and slicing, in ventors have not yet supplied the desidera tum so far as peaches are concerned. The canning and evaporating etablishments dip the peaches in a hot caustic soda bath for a minute or two which has the effect of re moving the outer skin very promptly and perfectly, and at a considerable saving of fruit The simplest and most effective ma chine for removing the pits that we have seen, is a little implement called “The Farm er’s l’et,” which, apparently, ought not to cost more than a half dollar. We do not know where they are made, but are informed that Mark W. Johnson & Co., of Atlanta, have them for sale. Of course, much that has been written above, applies with equal force to apples, pears, and berries of various kinds. Apple parers and slicers are now so well known as effective labor-savers that it is needless to call attention to them. R. Cultivation of Celery. This luxury among vegetables does not re ceive the attention at the hands of our gard eners, neither professional nor amateur that its real merits deserve. It is true, that it requires mure care and greater skill in its cultivation than any other vegetable grown in our gardens, but it supplies u need for which there is no substitute. As a relish, after a meat dinner, it has no equal. It is an excellent nervine, and hence, especially suited to delicate persons and those enguged in exhaustive mental labor. Very few gardeners, however, have had personal experience in its cultivation and its subsequent management. SECURING PLANTS is difficult if the needs of the plant are not known; and they are transplanted with diffi culty at the season for setting them in place. The plants may be grown in beds prepared for the purpose in a cool, moist, partially shaded place, in hot-houses, cold frames or in the rows where they are to grow perma nently. It is generally better to sow some seed in two or more of the above ways to be doubly sure of having the plants in abundance. The seed arc very small and, hence, should be either covered very lightly or pressed in with the feet or a roller. If sown in the rows in which the plants are to remain, open a trench eight or ten inehes deep and eight or ten inches wide; work into the bottom of it some well-rotted ma nure and surface mold until it is filled to within four inches of the general surface. Pulverize this thoroughly and raise it an inch higher in the center than at the sides. In the center of this little edge sow the seed and firm them in with a pieceof plank firmly fastened on the end of a stick, the latter to be used as a handle. This is a very simple but useful little implement, which is often needed in the garden. Take a piece of lum ber such ns is used ns joists in dwellings, A 0 inches, four feet long, bore a hole with inch-and-half or two inch auger. In this insert a stick three or four feet long—an old spade handle will answer well—brace this on each side and the tool is finished. If a V shaped groove one inch deep at apex, is made in the bottom of the piece of timber so as to leave the surface immediately over the seed a little higher than on either side, a cross section of the firmer will present an appearance something like this A heavy wheel made like those used for round bands would answer tbe same purpose and require less time to do a given amount of work. These beds should be on moist but not wet land. The seed may be sown at any time from first of May ’till middle of June. A few leafless brush laid over the rows will in crease the certainty of the plants setting, but will generally not be necessary. When the plants come,keep them well work ed until July, when the surplus plants may be drawn leaving one every ten inches in the row. Transplant the surplus plants to beds pre pared as directed for the seed rows, washing in the roots with a quart of water to each plant, using care to cover the wet earth with dry soil to prevent baking. Lay leafy bushes across the trench in which the plants are set to protect them from the direct rays of the sun until the plants are thoroughly established. Cultivate thoroughly so that by first of October the trench will be filled to the general level of the ground, but do not commence earthing up for the purpose of bleaching until the weather becomes a little frosty in tbe fall. Then earth up the plants where they stand, using care to draw the leaf Btalks to an upright position and to prevent dirt from falling into the bud of the plant. If the bleaching process is begun In very warm weather it will produce rot ami destroy the plants. The plants should not be entirely covered until there is danger of severe freezing weather. Then the whole plant should be covered in a wide, compact bed too thick to admit of the freezing of tbe plants. In our climate this is all that is necessary, as our winters are never so severe that tbe plants cannot be taken up as needed. No family garden is complete without a plat of celery. Try it this season, reader, if it is with only a few plants. J. S. N. Bermuda Brass Heed. We find this heading to an advertisement of a well known seedsman in a Southern co- temporary. The seedsman claims to have procured a limited supply of the seed of this grass which he offers to sell at the moderate price of $2.50 per pound. Now this sounds very much like first-class humbuggery, and we would so class it, but for the high char acter which both the seedsman and the jour nal which gives currency to the apparent swindle sustain. We presume that both have been imposed upon, and that the seed of some other grass has been palmed off upon the seedsman for that of Bermuda. The Bermuda has been grown in Georgia for more than half a century, and has never been known to bear seed. Indeed, the flow ers of the true Bermuda (cynodon dactylon) as grown in the South are imperfect, being staminate only, and of course cannot pro duce seed. There is a grass which somewhat resembles Bermuda, but readily distinguish able from it, which does occasionally bear seed. It propagates by roots and joints like the Bermuda, and is often mistaken for it. Has our seedsman procured seeds of this joint grass under the impression that he has the Bermuda, or has lie found some region in which the true Bermuda produces seed? This is an important question to the cotton, cane and rice planter. If there is a variety of Bermuda with the tenacity of life and spreading propensities of that grown in the Southern States, which also produces seed, an embargo should at once be placed upon its introduction into this country. It is difficult enough to keep the seedless variety within bounds; if it is propagated by seed, it would take the entire cotton belt in ten years. But we do not believe the soed advertised are genuine cynodon daclylon, but probably something like the Bermuda grass seed dis tributed in the South, by Ex-Commissioner Le Due. Will Mr. Seedsman rise to explain? J. S. N. Propagating Raspberries. This delicious fruit Is not so well adapted to our Southern climate as it is to that a few degrees north of us, and hence requires more careful attention to ensure success in its cul tivation. It delights in a moist, loamy soil and cool, partially shaded situations. In selecting a plat, therefore, for its cultivation, these facts should be borne in mind and the conditions necessary for its successful growth supplied us far as practicable. Once established under proper conditions, the crowns live and bear fruit for many years consecutively. Like the common briar, the canes are biennial. Those which spring up from the stools this year bear fruit next year ahd then die—new ones taking the place of the old each suc ceeding year. The old canes should be removed each year soon after tbe fruitiug season is over or during the suc:eeding fall and the new canes cut back to within two or three feet of the stool. To propagate the plants bend down the ends of this year’s growth and strew a little earth on them. They take root very readily and will be ready for transplanting next fall. The black cap varieties, such as Gregg and Turner succeed best here. J. 8. N. Are tbe Different Early Peaches Distinct Varieties? This question was mooted at the last meet ing of the Atlanta Pomological Society and a resolution adopted requesting its members to bring well ripened specimens of each of tbe extra early varieties—such as the Alex ander, Saunders,Wilder, Early Canada, Wa terloo, Ac., to the next meeting, for the pur pose of comparing them. They were re quested also to bring some of tbe leaves of each variety with tbe peaches for the same purpose. This is a very important question to the man who wishes to purchase trees of the early varieties. A suspicion exists that there is an unduo multiplication of names for the some thing or for things so nearly the same that one is as good as the othor. It is quite plain that the early varieties are all from a common parent, (tbe Hale’s early,) and while they may have sprung from differ ent seed, their distinctive characteristics may lie too slight to Justify their propaga tion under separate names. The same discovery has been made almost simultaneously by two men who had no communication with each other, but this did not render it necessary to use two names for the same thing. We will be pleased to have the views of those who are fruiting several of these new candidates for popuiur favor, as to the points of difference between them. J. 8. N. Hummer Treatmentof Strawberry Beds. The old beds which were or should have been well mulched, should not be disturbed with plow or hoe during the fruiting season, but the weeds and gross which come through tbe mulch must be pulled out by hand. As soon as the crop is gathered rake off the mulch, cultivate thoroughly with the hoe if planted close for garden culture, or the plow, if in field culture. Keep the ground clear of weeds and grass through the summer and keep off runners by chopping with a sharp spade close around the crowns. We prefer cultivating in crowns because they cun then be more conveniently hoed and because we think they bear more and better fruit if kept in separate crowns, than when ullowed to run together ns some cultivate them. For field culture we plant them 3 by 2 feet, and plow them one way. This saves much time and gives better cultivation than if worked entirely with hoes. When growth ceases in the fall, replace the mulch, spreading it uniformly over the entire bed. After leav ing it to settle for a few days, pass over with a stick and open a circular space the size of the crown immediately over each plant. The mulch need not be applied to young plants when first set as they need work through both spring and summer, to advance the plants os rapidly os possible and induce the formation of a full crop of fruit buds for the next year’s crop. If plantsare needed for setting a new bed, allow the runners to remain and root on a portion of the old bed. Indeed, one who expects together annual crops of berries should plant a fresh bed every fall and destroy one. Thu beds ore not usually profitable after the third year. If the ground is not already sufficiently fer tile, top-dress in September, with not less thnn 500 pounds flour of hone per uore, uml work it in at the lust cultivation before mulching. It must be remembered that next ycur’s crop of berries will depend upon the healthy growth of the plants during this season us the fruit buds which produce the next yeur’s crop are formed during this year’s growth. J. 8. N. Written gpeciallv lor the Southern World. The Planting of Trees. BY CASSIUS M. CLAY. The right time to plant trees is in the spring, when the sap begins to move, ever greens being late. It is true that full plant ing will do, but then there must besullicicnt earth witli the roots to keep up the vegetable clothing, else the winter’s cold will kill them or retard their resuscitation in the spring. For it is a result of animal und vegetable structure that it will resist cold longer than inert matter. DIOQINO UP the trees is a tedious business, and too often the roots are cut too short for the top, which must be kept in proportion to the root in its original place. The operator with his spude must leave a sufficient space about the trunk untouched by the digging, when the roots are to be severed in the ground by a trench all round. Here the side edge of the spade should all the time be turned towurds the shaft of the tree, so that the roots are not cut but broken on the off side of the trench, because these being smallest and weakest they are broken, and small ones pulled out from the far side of the hole. Thus we have the roots extending as far as the hole from which the tree is dug, and the small ones very useful, still farther extended. Follow ing this course an immense difference is se cured over the method of cutting the roots to the space within the surrounding trench. THE REPLANTING HOLE should be dug as large os may be—the larger the better; and earth taken[out should be separated into two piles, the rich and the poor soils. It 1b proper, however, never to enter the clay, or a substratum which holds water ; for although some plants enter the clay with their tap-roots, if a water-tight cup is allowed at the bottom of the setting the rich earth tempts the roots then to en ter when the coming in waturkills them— for no roots will live under water at all, ex cept some water plants and roots. TRIMMING. The tree, if all the roots are taken up, and it suits one's taste, need not be trimmed at all at the planting. But if trimmed, certain laws must be observed. A due proportion between the roots and top ; the nigged split roots should be out to smooth surfaces with