Southern world : journal of industry for the farm, home and workshop. (Atlanta, Ga.) 1882-18??, September 15, 1882, Image 6
THE SOUTHERN WORLD, SEPTEMBER 15, 1882.
Written specially lor the Southern World.
HOKE LIFE IN FLORIDA.
BY UBLIN HABCOUBT.
Third Paper.
> What Will It CoiitT’
I
In previous papers we have discussed the
important question, “Where Shall I Settle ?”
Let us now look into the second, no less mo
mentous one—“What will it Cost?” Now,
this is a good deal like the far-famed query,
“How big is a piece of Chalk ?”
There is no place in the civilized world,
where men do congregate, where also money
to any extent may not be got rid of by those
so inclined, and Florida being in the above
category, and not so near “the jumping-off
place" either, as she was only a few years
ago, is no exception to this rule. Money can
be buried here as well as elsewhere, and the
question of “What will it Cost to Settle?"
may meet with widely different replies from
as many standpoints.
We, however, are not writing for the ben
efit of those who have already an abundance
of this world’s goods; such need no advice
from us, they can come and go and settle, as
and where they list. Our items are meant
for those who come to Florida seeking to
improve their fortunes; who have but little
to start with in their new life, except a
wealth of hope, energy and perseverance,
and this {S'the best kind of wealth to pos
sess, the world over. To such willing, ear
nest workersas these, the question of “What
will it Cost?” comes home, often with dire
ful significance.
So then, what we want to know just now,
is not the maximum, (that is an uncertain
quantity hard to determine,) but the min
imum cost of settling down in a new home
ifi this genial clime. Of course, even here,
there is an extreme; some men, strong and
sinewy, go out into the wild woods, hew
down the tall pines, build a little log hut to
shelter their families, and then go out to
work by the month or the day, for wealthier
or more enterprising neighbors, and thus
keep on from year to year, without energy
or ambition to work hard enough to improve
their condition or ensure the future comfort
of their families; but such so-called “men"
as these are few, thank heaven. And again,
there are some who began their Florida lives
just as cheaply and roughly as these, and yet
kept pushing upward, until now they are
among the richest and most influential men
in the State. The majority who are coming
to Florida these days, however, are men who
have a few hundred dollars in their pockets
and want to know how to make the best use
of them, for their present and future ben
efit.
The question of location settled in its
broader sense, next comes that of the par
ticular piece of land, both as to kind, qual
ity and locality. To those seeking perma
nent homes in Florida, this is a subject so
fraught with weal or woe, health or sickness,
success or failure, that it cannot receive too
great care and study. And in this connec
tion we cannot too earnestly deplore the
petty jealousies that are so frequently wit
nessed by would-be settlers, lending to tbe
pitting of one section against uuother, and
the decrying of one neighbor—especially of
that neighbor’s land—by another, to the harm
and degradation of all.
The St. John’s river man meeting a stran
ger bound for the Ocklawaba and lake re
gions, will do his best to convinco him that
the only good, healthy land to be had, is that
in which he is personally interested; the
Indian river man will tell the stranger that
his locality is the only right and proper one
to settle in ; the Lake region man decries the
8t. John’s river lands; the man with pine
land to sell, vituperates the hammocks; the
hammock owner runs down the pine land,
and each neighbor puts forward his new “bit
of land’’ as "a right smart chance better"
for the purpose desired, than any other tract
hereabouts; and so this narrow, false-hearted,
mistaken policy runs along the line, with of
course, here and there, “the exception that
proves the rule."
An amusing, and instructive case in point,
was brought to our notice only a few days
ago. ▲ stranger, a man of wealth, energy
and intelligence—such an one as Florida
most needs to develop her immense latent
powers, agreed to purchase a certain piece of
land, if, on seeing it, he found it as repre
sented. Well, he saw the land, and was
thoroughly satisfied; shortly thereafter, he
was accosted by a man living close by:
“Hot stranger, I reckon you’re the man
as ’lows to buy Chris Brown’s land, eh V
“Yea, it’s a fine place, isn’t it?"
Neighbor A, as we will call him, took off
hiscap, rubbed his head thoughtfully, looked
up at the sky, then down at the stranger:
“I don’t like to go agin a neighbor, ye
know,” he said slowly, with a significant
wink.
“Why, what is the matter? Isn’t itgopd
land?"
“Well, that’s as you takes it; ’taint no
good for cotton nor cane."
“I want it for oranges, lemons."
“Then hits as you find hit; ’Saint never
been tried. I knowd a man as ’dared be
could play a flute, didn’t know he couldn't
till he'd tried, you see, and then he just
squeaked awful, wasn't no good.”
“But why do you think it is not fit for
oranges?”
“Didn’t say twarent stranger! I aint 'goin
to be onnelghborly like, only I 'lows as wild
oranges aint found only in low hammocks,
as that ud be the fittenest place for the sweet
uns!”
There did seem to be some sense in this ar
gument, so, as our stranger’s contemplated
purchase was not concluded, he went with
neighbor A, who “din't want to be onneigh-
borly though," to view a “passcl of hammock
of his own."
The stranger approved of the tract, and
had almost decided in its favor, when neigh
bor B met him.
“Stranger,” quoth he, “I hear you’re
bound to take A’s bit of sour swash.”
"Sour swash?"
“Jes so! I don't want to make no trouble
fer a neighbor, but it's easy to see that bit of
land’s sour swash, as ud pisen a ’gator i Its
hammock, sure enough, but it ud take a for
tun’ to dreen it fer any use. Now, there’s a
bit of pine land, high and dry, that's just
the thing you want, easy to clear and no
dreenin.”
Had he, B, any of this vaunted high pine
for sale ?
“Well, yes, he had; and if the stranger
wanted, he didn’t like to be onneighborly—
but if he must, why he must."
So the peqdexed stranger looked at this
pine land, and really liked it better than any
lie had seen yet; he was glad he had looked
further. This land was ail right, that was
certain.
Then along came neighbor C, a better edu
cated man than the others, capable of form
ing an opinion and giving a reason for it.
Don’t take that pine land,” he ad
vised. "There is hard-pan and clay under it;
hard-pan kills the trees, and clay is cold ; the
worst of it is, you never c in tell until your
grove is old enough to bear, then the roots
reacli the hard-pan or clay and the trees just
die, no help for them, and there you are
money and years all gone for nothing 1"
Neighbor C (of course) had just the right
kind of land to sell, but neighbor D quietly
cautioned the stranger against it, as “scrub
hammock, and no account nohow. He had
some himself, though, first-class."
But the stranger shook his head sadly, and
turned his back forever on that community,
saying:
"No, I will have none of your lands; any
one of those tracts would suit me; I see
thrifty, healthy trees on them all, but each
one of you runs down his neighbor’s hon
esty, and decries his neighbor's goods,
would not live and trade and visit among
such men, if a grove was given me free.’’
Now, good reader, perhaps you think this
is an imaginary experience—unhappily, we
cannot plead guilty, it was an an actual fact,
and its counterpart may be met with any
day.
“A word to the wise is sufficient,” prenex
garde.
The question’ is often asked, “What does
good orange land cost?"
Well, as our friend, neighbor A, just re
ferred to, remarks: “That’s as you takes
hit,” whether your choice is pine land or
hammock; remote from or near to, good
transportation facilities.
Ourown experience and judgment and that
of the majority of Floridians, is decidedly
in favor of pine Jand, as a general rule, for
a permanent; healthy home, where one can
be happy and contented.
An important consideration to most set
tlers, and one that would be paramount,
were all other things equal, is the fact that
it costs much less than hammock, not only
in the actual purchase money, or “first cost, 1
but in the after preparations for the recep
tion of the coveted orange grove—the Alpha
and Omega of the Floridian’s aspirations.
Hammock land is almost invariably, found
stretching back from the shores of the large
rivers and lakes, joining a belt of rich land,
varying in depth from a halt mile, or less,
to three or four miles. And here, and only
here, are fonnd the wild sour orange trees,
either scattered thinly about amidst the gi
ant oak, hickory, bay, magnolia, and pal
metto trees, or else growing so closely to
gether as to form those famous wild groves
of which everyone has beard and read so
much, in these latter years of the newly
awakened interest in orange culture.
Happier than they knew, were those for
tunate first-comers, whose early appearance
on the field, enabled them to homestead the
land on wtiicb these latent gold mines were
wasting their sweetness on the desert air.”
To them it was given to secure, for the nom
inal sum of $14.00, one hundred and sixty
acres ot rich lands, frequently with hun
dreds or thousands of noble orange trees
flourishing in their midst, and all they had
to do was to clear away the underbrush, bud
the wild stock with the sweet orange and lo!
in three or four years they were independent
men—and in nine years, rich men, with the
smooth stream of their wealth constantly
widening and deepening as time rolled
quietly onwaid.
Those "good old times” are gone by ; the
area of wild groves was always limited—ex
tremely limited, and now, they are things of
the past; tamed, domesticated, brought into
subjection under the conquering march oi
civilization. A few, a very few, are leftstill,
but they are scattering, and would not have
existed so long, but that they lie so far away
from transportation centers, as to be useless
for years to come. Hammock lands, after
passing from the State and General Govern
ments into private hands, have always been
held at much higher prices than the pine
barrens, and this not entirely because the
former are the richer lands, but because also
of a natnral law which operates in tbe com
mercial world, wherever man bays and sells.
When the demand for an article is in ex
cess of the supply, the owners of that article
reap the inevitable results of higher prices.
Obviously, the supply of hammock land, es
pecially of that accessible to transportation
lines, is extremely limited, and even if the
demand were much lets than it actually is,
the supply would still run short; therefore,
hammock lands are always held at rates
from five to ten timeshigher than pine lands,
which exceed them in area in yet larger pro-
portions.
The relative merits of these two classes of
Florida lands is a question much agitated at
present, with the great preponderance of
opinion in favor of the pine lands. And
right here we remember that before we our
selves came to Florida, now over four years
ago, we often read of this same “ hammock
lund” and wondered what it wus exactly, (of
course we knew, vaguely,) and very likely
there are those among our readers at this
present moment, who are wondering much
the same; so, let us pause a moment, and
settle this question.
“Hammocks” then, (you rarely find them
“hummucks”) are tracts of land which, ly
ing rather lower than thesurroundingcoun-
try, or else along the banks of the larger
lakes and rivers, are constantly moist, and
have, therefore, escaped the annual visit*
tion of the destructive fires which every
spring sweep from one end to the other of
Florida’s piney woods. We shall have more
to say upon this subject by and by.
Thus year after year the falling leaves of
the hickory, oak and other deciduous trees,
which grow so luxuriantly in these damp
places, remain to decay upon the ground
thus steadily enriching It, and forming
rich humus, in which a luxuriant under
growth springs up, adding more and more
to the fertility of the soil by its falling leaves
and branches; such an undergrowth as has
no opportunity to establish itself in the
piney woods on account of these same annual
fires we have mentioned.
This, we are convinced, is the true or’gin
of the Florida hammocks, where the wild
orange groves are invariably found, and
where the rankest tropical luxuriance of
vegetable life is the most striking character
istic; through one of these true Florida
hammocks it is impossible to make one'
way without the constant use of axe and
hatchet.
The writer has seen the giant trees, and
wonderous wealth of vegetation of tbe tropi
cal regions, those of South America, yet even
there, the rich, dense undergrowth of our
genuine Florida hammocks is not excelled.
Let it not be supposed that all of Florida'
rich lands are “ hammock ’’ lands, nor that
all hammock lands are alike. This is the
most diversified State in the Union, not only
as regards climate, but soil, and the unique
distribution of the different kinds of tbe
latter.
Most people regard Florida's hammocks
as her richest and beet land, this Is not the
case however. The richest of the rich lands
are those technically called “swamp-lands
they are of alluvial formation, and are con
atantly being added to in extent, year by
year. These tracts, varying from twenty
two hundred acres, sometimes more, were
originally depressed basins, which have
become gradually filled in by tbe washings
from the higher surrounding lands; for cen
turies the broken branches, rotting wood,
leaves, grass, and debris of all kinds, have
been steadily accumulating in these basins,
which we may well term dame nature’s com
post heaps,—heating, fermenting, decaying,
and becoming vast store-houses of the richest
\>lant-food. So that these swamp-lands are
really the most valuable in the State, not
only because they are richer than the ham
mocks at the outset, but because their fertil
ity is much more lasting.
But, and "there’s the rub,"—these swamp
lands are like gold mines,—you know the
richness is there, but you must have money
in your pocket to get at it. You invest ten
dollars and reap fifty or one hundred in re
turn, but you must first have the ten dollars
to use as a lever; if you have it, you are all
right; but most people who immigrate to
Florida have it not, and it is for this reason,
because these rich swamp lands must be
carefully ditched and drained before they
can be made available—that to-day there
still remain for sale, over one million acres,
which may be had for from $2 downwards
per acre.
We have said nothing about the health
iness of living on these same lands,—do we
need? 8wamp lands all over the world are
the fever-breeders, and those who culti
vate these lands should know enough to
locate their homes several miles from them
on higher ground.
And now let us see about tbe hammocks,
as we have said, “there are hammocks, and
hammocks."
Low hammocks may be said to be a cross
between the high hummock and the swamp
lands, and in truth, this fact is recognized
n the odd kind of local name often used to
designate them, which is, “swammocks;”
they are not less fertile than the swamp
lands, but their good qualities are not so
durable; the soil is deep and tenacious, and
the surface usually lev* l, so that ditching is
really alwaysa necessity.
Low hammock lauds are not so plenty as
the swamp-lands, and it was on theso tracts
that the great bulk of the sugar planta
tions of the old regime were located.
It is the high hanmiock, however, that is
usually meant, when a “Florida hammock"
is referred to in a general way ; these are on
high ground, are often decidedly undulating,
almost hilly, in fact; their soil is a fine veg
etable mold, with a sandy loam, und under
neath, from two to five feet, is found a sub -
stratum of marl, limestone, or clay—we saw
piece of this substratum the other day—a
hard, rock-like substance, underlying one of
the finest (one time wild) groves of Lake
Hurris, and hud we not known otherwise, we ,
should surely have declared it to be a frag
ment of the famous coquina wall of St. Au
gustine.
These soils seldom suffer from too much
water, but they are frequently affected and
their treesdroop undern drought that passes
harmlessly over their piney-woods neighbors.
“ Hammocks” are very rich and fertile, no
doubt, their large trees, dense undergrowth,
the luxuriant growth of orange trees, and
splendid yield of sugar, without the use of
manures, proves this fact.
But still it is not well, as a general thing,
to fix one's residence ; tbe very causes that
produce rich vegetation, produces also fevers
and agues, and a general feeling of weary
debility, that is really harder to bear than
an actual, active spell of illness, which can
be met and conquered and driven away.
Here and there we find tracts of high ham
mock on the borders of our great lakes
where the shores are bold and sandy, and the
minature waves come rolling upon a clear
white beach, Irom which the,haramock land
rises high and dry, with a mixture of sand
in its loamy soil; no rotting, malaria breed
ing vegetation here—no marsb, no low, wet
spots.
Now, no one need to be afraid to reside on
such a spot at this, if he will just clear ten
or twenty acres of the dense growth from
around bis dwelling, and give free admission
to those revivifying influences, sunshine and
pure air. We know of many such homes
along the shores of Lakes Harris, Griffin,
Kingsley, Santa Fe, and other of our large
lakes, and they are healthy as our pine-land
homes and very beautiful, with an outlook
for miles over the clear sparkling waters of
these lakes, with their emerald green bord
ers, rising abruptly from the shores. Only
a few days since we stood on the portico of
one of these famed dwellings, and gazed ont
over Lake Harris as on a beauteous picture
of peaceful fairy land.
But not to every one, no, not to one in five
hundred, is such a favored location possible,