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THE HOUSTON HOME JOURNAL
Jillinda Falen
Antiques
falen@alltel.nct
Sweet sunbonnet
babies
One of the most popular
quilts in the early 1900 s was
called Sunbonnet Sue. Each
square depicted a cute little
girl with her face obscured
by her large bonnet. This
little character originally
evolved from a series of chil
dren’s primers that were
written by Eulalie Osgood
Grover. Ms. Grover was
very impressed by another
young lady’s artwork that
pictured children in large
hats and bonnets. These
“sunbonnet babies” were
very popular and Ms.
Grover invited their creator,
Bertha Melcher to illustrate
her children’s primers.
The sunbonnet babies
named May and Sue were
the main characters in the
first primer. They were
joined later by the “overall
boys” which were illustra
tions of little boys in large
hats that hid their faces as
well. The collaboration
between these two talented
ladies lasted many years
through many primers. The
first primer was printed in
only black and white and
the others in color.
These children’s books
became so popular that sun
bonnet babies began to
appear on everything from
postcards to china. The
Royal Bayreuth Company, a
fine china producer, picked
up the sunbonnet babies for
a line of children’s dishes
and assorted pieces. Quilt
patterns for the sunbonnet
babies were printed in news
papers and ladies home
magazines.
When Ms. Grover traveled
through Europe she came
back inspired to write sto
ries of the sunbonnet babies
in Italy, Holland and
Switzerland. These books
were usually used with
geography books to teach
the children about the coun
tries that the “babies” trav
eled to. Ms. Grover wrote
over 27 books that were
printed over 4 million times
in her lifetime. The first
primer appeared in 1902
and the overall boys fol
lowed in 1905. Ms. Grover
also wrote plays and song
lyrics for use in the schools
to accompany the books that
she wrote. She also wrote
books for junior and senior
high students but none
achieved the wild popularity
that the sunbonnet babies
did.
Here are some prices for
sunbonnet collectibles from
Kovel’s Price Guide:
Sunbonnet Baby Doorstop;
cast iron, painted, $115;
Sunbonnet Baby Hair
Receiver, $325; Rand
McNally Sunbonnet Baby A-
B-C Book, 1929, S4OO.
Royal Bayreuth 1974
Creamer, Friday, Sweeping,
3.5”, S2OO. Happy collect
ing!
Jillinda Falen is the
owner of Carrie Lynn’s
Antiques in Perry. She has
been collecting and selling
antiques for over 21 years.
She is also an experienced
estate liquidation specialist.
You may contact her via
email at falen@alltel.net,
www. antiquesi ngeorgia.com
or through the Houston
Home Journal.
r #
freHis home vegetables
tor better fruit, harvest
By TERRY KELLEY
College of Agricultural
and Environmental
Sciences
The seeds have all come
up. The transplants are all
in the ground. Your veg
etable garden is growing, so
it’s time to sit back, relax
and enjoy. Well, not exactly.
As all veteran gardeners
know, there are constantly
chores to be accomplished.
It’s now time to trellis some
of those vegetables you
planted.
Trellising gets the plant
and fruit up off the ground.
This makes for better quali
ty fruit and less disease. It
also helps maintain order in
the garden and mdkes har
vesting easier.
For tomatoes, some peo
ple simply put cages over
the plant to support it as it
grows. Another method is to
drive a 1-inch-square, 4-foot
stake into the ground by
each plant and tie the plant
to the stake.
If you have a long row of
tomatoes, you can set a
Girls just wanta have fun
submitted
Lanier Hays Moore recently celebrated her 9th birthday at the home of her grand
parents, Lynda and Gary Bishop. She and her friends played dress-up in her great -
grandmother’s, grandmother’s, and great-aunt’s clothes and hats. Front row, from
left: Haley Johnson, Morgan James-Artigas, Lanier Hays Moore; Back row, from left:
Ashley Green, Mallory Bowen
Protecting tomatoes from blossom-end rot
Tomatoes are most every
body’s favorite vegetable.
And most everybody has at
least one plant growing
somewhere, whether in the
flower bed, garden, or patio
container. Tomatoes do
have their problems,
though, one of which is
blossom-end rot.
Blossom-end rot shows
up as a round, sunken,
water-soaked spot which
develops on the bottom of
the fruit. The spot enlarges,
turns brown, and feels hard
and leathery. The disorder
always starts at the blos
som end, and may enlarge
to affect up to half the fruit.
Blossom-end rot also
occurs on squash, peppers,
and watermelons. It is
caused by a lack of calcium
in the developing fruit
resulting from one or more
of the following:
(1) extreme fluctuations
in soil moisture, from very
wet to very dry, (2) rapid
plant growth early in the
season, followed by very dry
weather, (3) excessive rains
that smother root hairs, (4)
high levels of soluble salts
(fertilizer) in the soil from
overfertilization, (5) culti
vating too close to the
plant, and (6) an original
deficiency of calcium in the
soil. The severity of this
problem can be compound
ed when two or more of
these factors interact with
each other, and can occur
even when there is abun
dant calcium in the soil and
tissue tests show high lev
els of calcium in the plant.
The first fruit cluster is
usually the most severely
large post at each end of the
row and again about every
20 feet within it. Attach a
wire across the top of the
posts and about 4 inches
above the ground. Use
twine to tie each plant to
the wires for support.
Peppers can be staked as
well. Place similar 1-inch
square stakes about every
fourth plant with twine
running from stake to
stake. Start the first twine 4
inches above the ground.
As the peppers grow, put
another string about every
4 inches above the last one.
Start with the first stake
and go on one side of the
plants. Then go around the
next stake and so on.
When you get to the last
stake, come back down the
other side of the plants to
box the plants in and keep
them from falling over.
Another crop that works
good with a trellis is cucum
bers. You can use 4-foot
fencing wire and some posts
to build a temporary fence
beside the cucumber row.
Tim Lewis
Gardening
t itnlewis@addressisp.com
affected by blossom-end
rot. Mold may grow on the
rotted surface, and result
from fungi or bacteria that
invade the damaged tissue.
The rotted area is of no
value but the rest of the
fruit is edible.
To prevent blossom-end
rot, follow these guidelines:
(1) Maintain uniform soil
moisture by mulching and
by watering wisely. Apply
enough water at each irri
gation to wet the soil to a
depth of 18 to 20 inches.
Water when the soil two
inches deep is barely moist;
(2) Avoid using high nitro
gen fertilizers. Using 5-10-
15 instead of 10-10-10
would be advisable. Also
avoid the use of fresh
manure in large amounts.
Use nitrogen in the form of
potassium or calcium
nitrate and avoid ammoni
um nitrate if possible, since
ammonia inhibits the
uptake of calcium. Applying
several small sidedressings
is also better than applying
too much fertilizer at one
time. (3) Plant in well
LIFESTYLE
Then just train the vines up
on the fence as they grow.
You’ll find and pick your
cukes easier.
Eggplant can be staked,
too. Place either tomato
stakes or rebar next to each
eggplant. Then secure it to
the stake. Be careful not to
cut into plants as you tie
them with twine. But keep
the twine tight enough to
support the plants.
Trellising is one chore
that should be accomplished
fairly soon after the plants
are established.
Don’t forget to scout for
insects and disease prob
lems, too. Keep your weeds
in check, and water as need
ed. The gardener’s work is
never quite done. But doing
chores when they’re needed
will help you relax and
enjoy the lazy days of sum
mer a little more.
Terry Kelley is an
Extension Service horticul
turist with the University of
Georgia College of
Agricultural and
Environmental Sciences
drained soils. A larger,
healthier root system is
more able to take up calci
um and other nutrients: (4)
Avoid cultivating deeper
than one inch within one
foot of the plant.
One other thing can be
done to prevent blossom
end rot and that is a foliar
spray of calcium chloride.
Apply just before the
appearance of the first clus
ter of tomatoes at the rate
of 4 tablespoons of 95 per
cent calcium chloride per
gallon of water. Apply
sprays every 7 to 10 days
until 3 or 4 application have
been made. Spray the
foliage to the point of
runoff.
I hope this helps you in
your frustrations with the
infamous blossom-end rot.
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