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THE LATEST DESIGNS.
The fashions for midwinter are not settled
yet, and will not be until after the first
tall suits are out. It seems as though the
great designers of Paris get new ideas af
ter they see the first costumes of the sea
son worn. Sleeves will remain large,
whether of the regular mutton-leg shape
or in one or two puffs to the elbows, being
very close-fitting from the wrists to the el
bows in either case. Very often the puff
ed portion is of a second material, and the
wrist is trimmed with a twist, fold or
piping of the same, a band of galloon, etc.
VARIOUS ACCESSORIES.
Belts of material are in soft folds from
three to six inches deep, or may form a
point in front. They fasten at the back
under a crosswise bow,or rosette,simply lap,
or form a frill of the gathered ends. Again
the fastening will be on the side and may
look like a knot of pointed ends upright.
Collars remain plain and high, as a draped
or “stock” shape, or as an upright ruffle.
Vests are flat, invisibly fastened or caught
with pretty buttons, of which there are
many, or may be full from shirrings of the
neck.
Revers are long or short, in either case
tapering to a point, and very wide so as to
lap over the sleeves. In many cases they
are cut rounding, so as to avoid a seam,
and have a shoulder-piece that flares on
the lower end. Berthas or shoulder capes
and sleeve epaulets are cut rounding now,
so that the upper edge will fit smoothly
and the lower one flare. Doubled-breast
ed vests, similar in shape to a man's, are
quite jaunty on a young person,and should
be worn with a vest and draped collar of a
second material.
SKIRTS AND BODICES.
Skirts will escape the ground and be
from three and a half to five yards around,
with more three and a half and four than
any other width. They will include the
seven-gored shape, the bell, the double
circular flounce, the single ditto and the cir
cular skirt cut out like a ring, with only
one seam, at the back, and fitted at the top
without any fullness. Other fullness is
gathered at the back. The double skirt is
waning in Paris, but it is only appearing
rarely here so far. Border and flat effects
in trimmings on skirts will prevail. If
the material is stiff, no interlining will be
used, but if of soft goods, one of very thin
crinoline is generally inserted to the knees.
The bodices are round and much trimmed.
The only basque is a “habit” shape, or one
fitted with a circular basque or skirt five
inches deep, without any fullness at the
top. Seams are still avoided as much as
possible. Jacket fronts are of the Eton or
zouave shapes. Short jackets in three
pieces, cut down at the top like outlining
a round yoke, are pretty of velvet. Odd
silk waists will continue a wonderful arti
cle of commerce, to be worn with woolen
and black silk skirts.
OTHER STYLISH DESIGNS.
Shot and tiny-figured taffetas in bright
colors have a round waist, with collar and
belt of black satin in easy folds. Often a
vest of black silk muslin is striped with
white lace insertion to give the fashiona
ble black and white touch. Other bright
colored gowns have their frills all bound
with number five black satin ribbon and a
white vest with black lace. Odd waists
of changeable gauze in the rainbow or Loie
Fuller lights are worn with shot surah or
taffeta skirts, repeating tLj same colors, or
with black satin. Rose quillings of rib
bon, silk cut on the bias, or straight and
edged with lace, of net doubled, or lace, are
worn on house and evening costumes.
Many times handsome gowns show such a
ruche at the foot of the skirt with a band
of passementerie six inches above, and
both repeated just above the knees. A
ruche then forms the collar, and outlines a
square yoke, while the sleeves are a suc
cession of tiny double ruffles to the elbows,
with a passementerie band at the wrist and
for the belt, making the most slender fig
ure look round.
THE LAST IDEAS.
Shot and brocaded grenadines are cut
in five bias flounces that cover a changea
ble or plain taffeta skirt, and are bound
with black satin ribbon. Sleeves in two
puffs, with black satin from wrist to el
bow, and around waist having a ribbon or
crush belt, or circular basque-piece of black
satin; circular bretelles of the grenadine
edged with ribbon. Plain black or color
ed ombre moire appear as waists on shot
gauze, grenadine or silk gowns in Paris.
Ideas in Dress.
THE IMPORTANT VEIL.
We may well call this an important ar
ticle of woman’s attire, as it adds or takes
from her appearance according to the veil
she selects and the way she wears it. A
veil must be bought with theidea of its be
comingness first and its fashion second. In
fact a veil will hardly become a fashion
able Jne unless it is more becoming than
ordinary. Buy only a becoming veil, and
try it before a glass when purchasing. A
lightly-dotted veil is, as a rule, more be
coming than a plain net. When black is
unbecoming, or all white, try the black
and white effects which are more flattering
than the solid colors. A golden-brown
having cream chenille dots is a very flat
tering veil. A fine net, having jet or iri
descent beads, is another ‘‘face improver,”
also a tiny mesh having lace or applique
figures and a border. Borders are very
stylish, but must be worn correctly, or
better let them alone if not willing to put
the border below the chin.
HOW TO WEAR THEM.
In the first place, buy sufficient veiling.
A yard and an eighth is not too much of
the double-width material for a large hat.
The shaped veils are bought by the veil,
and only a toque or walking-hat will ad
mit of a single-width veiling, which is
drawn on smoothly, but never so tight
tnat tfie nose seems to be poking through
the meshes, with the edge just to the bot
tom of the chin. A veil is, of course, put
over the hat and pinned at the back, just
below the hat or half-way to the nape of
the neck. It should look smooth, but easy
in fit. A border veil, whether shaped or
sold by the yard, must be put on so that
the border comes below the chin, or it will
give the effect of cutting the face in two
parts. A large veil over a big hat has a
picturesque finish to the toilette that can
hardly be over-estimated. It is put over
the brim crosswise of the material with a
few soft folds at the top, and the rest of
the width is caught under the chin in a
loose drapery which is ali carried to the
back and fastened in a puffy knot with a
stick-pin. No folds or wrinkles must ap
pear over the face, yet it should be grace
fully loose, and seemingly confine the face
in a halo of becoming lace that improves
all ages and complexions.
WHAT GIRLS ARE WEARING.
Some of the prettiest guimpe frocks are
of white China silk trimmed with a plaited
ruche of number nine satin ribbon on the
skirt and collar, and bows of the ribbon in
Empire fashion passing around the body
under the arms,and tied on the left side in
a long bow, or in the center with a short
one. Guimpe of tie finest of lawn in
tucks run by hand; around the low neck
of the silk is a bertha ruffle of the goods.
Another gown of this silk has a full gath
ered skirt, elbow sleeves with a ruffle, Em
pire belt, and a shirred yoke on a round
waist. A third model is simply a loose
Mother Hubbard hanging from a tucked
nainsook guimpe having sleeves; soft wide
belt of pale blue velvet tied in a djnkey’s
ear bow in front, which gave the frock a
cunning finish.
MORE WASH DRESSES.
Short-skirted frocks of dotted Swiss for
girls of nine years have a blouse dropping
over the belt, back and front, and full leg
of-mutton sleeves. Ruffle of the goods
edged with inch-wide point d’esprit lace
around the tiny band collar, then having
a Toby frill of three-inch lace around the
upper edge and turned over. Neat ging
ham frocks in which pink or blue predom
inate are worn with a guimpe of chambery
of one ?f these colors. New ruffles of the
dress goods are sewed in with the high col
lar and are six inches deep, back and front,
and eight inches on the shoulders. Skirts
are sewed to the belts as much as possible;
and waists all open in the back, with sin
gle or double puffed or full bishop sleeves
for girls of four to fourteen years.
WOOLEN FROCKS.
A pretty mauve crepon for a girl of eight
years has a full gathered skirt, sleeves in
two puff's to the elbows and a knife-plaited
frill below, round waist shirred around the
low neck,and a bertha plaiting around the
top, which tapers to a pointed re ver on
the left side and crossed diagonally to the
right side, where it ends under a rosette of
dark-green velvet ribbon at the waist-line.
Guimpe and frill around the neck of shot
green aud mauve surah. A girl of six
wears a Mother Hubbard or Empire frock
of cream crepon, the skirt of which is just
below her knees. Square yoke, back and
front, of ecru lace having the scalloped
WOMAN’S WORK.
edge over the crepon; sleeves of crepon to
the elbows, with puffs to the shoulders of
reddish-purple velvet; draped collar of vel
vet,and a loosely folded belt ending under
rosettes at the waist-line on either side,
which leaves the center front flowing free
ly over the close-fitting lining. Black
hose and shoes, or tan to match, are worn
by girls of all ages. Little Dutch coats of
red-purple Henrietta are worn by small
girls on cool days, also blue reefer jackets,
while misses simply dote on the short Eton
jacket, worn alone or en suite.
EARLY FALL WRAPS.
There is but one garment talked of
much, and that is capes of every style,
though invariably small. In cloth, velvet,
velveteen, black plush, etc., they will be
worn, with velvet, fur, bengaline, braid,
satin or jet trimmings. In colors, the
dress goods shades prevail: brown, tan,
dark and greenish-blue, old rose, green,
black, purplish tints and dark red. The
linings are of surah, satin or glace taffeta.
Some magnificent wrap linings are shown
in striped, glace and figured effects in sat
in. The capes are full and vary in length
from just above to just below the waist
line; even the fur models take this length.
The fuil trimming around the neck, and
collarette effect over the shoulders is still
the style and varies according to the
wearer, being round or slightly pointed
back and front. Short capes and mere
collarettes to match the costume will be
quite a feature this fall.
.JACKETS AND ULSTERS.
The jaunty jacket has been ousted for
the time being, but many are yet sold in
the country, and for very stout figures to
whom a cape is not becoming. Jackets
are of the blazer or reefer style, and the
sleeves have now been made sufficiently
large to do away with all complaints on
that score. They are also made to flare
more in the back to fit over the full skirts,
as many of the summer models have been.
In colors, black, navy, green and brown
predominate. Roll and shawl collars are
prevalent. Driving ulsters of English
smooth cloths show the latest fad of fas
tening in front with a single button.
Strapped seams, :apes and close-fitting de
signs in a long ulster are never passe. For
stormy wear, ocean traveling, etc., every
season brings forth rough cloths, invisible
checks, etc., in brown and blue, chiefly.
Large sleeves and .lull capes always
accompany the?e models. For hard coun
try driving in the fall the Cravenette gar
ments, in navy-blue or black, are excellent
for shaking the dust and rain.
If you wish to clean and brighten your
carpets after they have been beaten and
put down, wipe with a cloth wrung from
water to which a little ammonia has been
added. A tablespoonful of ammonia in a
gallon of warm water will often restore
colors in carpets; it will also remove white
wash stains from them.
Woman’s Work Job Department.
A Large and Well Equipped Office For All Classes of Fine Printing.
We will furnish good quality of stationery, printed in first-class style, at the fol-
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\ X-jF Mme.McCabe’sHealth
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