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NEW THINGS ABOUT FUR.
Its Pro gross From the Back of the Beast to
the Beauty.
The Furs It Is Safe to Buy—How the Coat of the Rabbit Becomes Royal Ermine-Why
the Finest Furs Are Buttered.
Copyright.
New York, Oct. 26. —Few women who
wear furs have any idea of the process
which Is gone through to bring the coats
of wild beasts into shape lit for their
own backs. It takes many a mink to
make the cape which measures anywhere
from 150 to 250 Inches around the lower
edge, and that hunter is lucky who bags
enough for a small cape In a week. But
his work is only a small part of the pro
cess. Alter he has caught his mink or
sable, he merely strips off the skin, turn
ing it wrong side out to protect the fur,
and sends it to the fur-cleaner.
It is largely upon the thoroughness of
the cleaner’s work that the softness and
beauty of the fur depends. The beginning
of the process is very unpleasant, for
the operator has to deal with skins that
have not been "blubbered,” and that have
begun to decompose.
When I started to visit a fur-cleaning
establishment I was prepared to see rooms
fqll of dried skins and unpleasant or
ders, and had my nose tilted at the proper
angle accordingly; but I was not pre
pared for the sight which greeted my eyes
when I was taken into a long apartment
on the second floor, where the proprietor
told me the most important part of the
work was done.
The room was about tw’enty-five feet
long by fifteen wide, and had wooded rods
stretched across it overhead, all filled
With furs in various stages of dryness.
Along each side of the apartment was
a row of barrels, ten in each row, and in
every barrel stood a man. These men
were going though the strangest mo
tions, swaying back and forth and doub
ling up as if all had simultaneously been
seized with a fit of cramps. Sotne of the
men move rapidly, as if the pain which
griped them was a lively one; others bent
slowly from side to side, and still others
seemed to be trying to get out of the bar
rel.
All wore burlap aprons, which were
draped carefully over the barrels so that
it was not possible to see how the men
were fastened in,—though from their ap
parent efforts to get out it seemed cer
tain that there must be something to pre
vent them.
"Will you please tell me what is the
matter with those men?" 1 asked the
proprietor, who is a Prussian of eighteen
years experience in the business.
• "They are treading fur,” he replied.
"That is the way we dress it.”
"What else have they in the barrels be
sides fur?'r
"Butter land salt and sawdust,” <he
said; and little Alice in wonderland could
not have been more surprised at the
cook’s reply of “Pepper Mostly,” when
she asked what trats were made of, than
I at this extraordinary statement of the
fur-cleaners.
Butter and fur and sawdust and salt
and feet—bare Italian feet!
"Will you fell me why you use such
an expensive commodity as butter in the
dressing of furs? Why wouldn’t lard do
as well? or olemargarlne, or some other
grease?”
"Because," replied he,’ "butter is the
, only pil which can be removed from the
skin when it has become soft and plia
ble, and still remain as a drossing to the
fur. Besides, almost any other oil would
leave a bad odor.”
"I suppose you use old butter that no
body would eat?”
"That Is Just what we don’t do,” he said.
"W(i use nothing but good butter, and for
the finest furs we use the very best we
can buy. Our two heaviest expenses are
buttfer and sawdust.”
T thought of the compound I sometimes
ate on my buckwheat cakes, and lie
grudged the good butter wasted on fur;
but I couldn't see why sawdust should
cost much.
“Sawdust ought to be cheap,” I sug
gested.
"Some sawdust is, but we use none but
mahogany sawdust from the veneering
mills, and we use a great deal of It.”
"Why mahogany sawdust?" I persisted.
"Because it contains an acid which tans
the leather and gives the wrong side of
the fur that reddish hue which is seen
in the best skins. But you must come and
see the beginning of the process, and then
you will get a better understanding of it.”
We went down to the room where were
kept the skins as they came in, in the
raw stato. All were turned wrong side out
and plied one upon the other, with little
or no fur visible. Even the tails had been
poked inside the bag-like skin to protect
them. The men in tills department were
at work scrapping off the fatty layer
which had not been removed by tne hun
ter—A process called blubbering. As their
last batch happened to be a 10l of skunk
skins, I did not stay there long.
When the fat is removed the skins are
hung up to dry. This makes tham very
hard and stiff, but the butter treatment
Boon softens them. The butter is rubbed
on-the wrong, or raw side, and allowed to
souk for a while, A bundle of chincilia
skins which had been buttered looked un
pleasantly like a batch of drowned cats.
After the skins have become thoroughly
soaked with the butter, the coarser ones
uro put into a "fulling mill," which is a
substitute for the man und his barrel.
The furs are treated to a generous sprink
ling of sawdust, and are shaken about
with machinery until the sawdust has ab
sorbed the butter and the skin becomes
» pliable.
The finer furs, when dried and buttered,
arc put Into the barrels of which 1 spoke
I at the beginning. Each barrel will hold
' about titty mink skins, or fourteen beaver
skins—according to the size of the skin—
besides a man and several quarts of saw
dust.
The proprietor told me that the men
tramped a batch of skins for about two
hours
"I should think it would hurt their feet. ’
"Oh, no!" he said. "Butter is good for
the feet. None of my men have corns and
1 believe It is due to the daily treatment
With butter.”
Now that I understand the meaning
of their strange gyrations, the spectacle
, ‘ of these men in barrels did not seem quite
no absurd. Their barrels were burled in
i sawdust, and were set in at a slant, so
that the furs would turn over easier and
all be thoroughly dressed.
In front of each barrel was a basin of
mahogany sawdust, from which they dip-
Lj’Sf p< d occasional handfuls to sprinkle over
the furs Inside. Another thing which was
placed within easy reach was a pail of
what 1 at first thought was buttermilk,
because It left a whlttlsh substance upon
the mustaches of those who partook; nut
’ I soon foun<l that it was not buttermilk.
* but the stuff that goes by that name in
prohibition towns. Nearly all of these
men looked thin and wiry, and I won
dered if they had been selected for their
figures, or whether they had worked otY
’ their avoirdupois .by the constant tread
!»«•
After the fur has been well "tramped"
|t Is taken out rn.l brushed over on the
ins Io with salt water, to d mpen it
slit Itly -?o that I ran be "flesh l. r ’
" loshHtf" Is -raping the ■ in upon
rr- t .-tatiomtry nicer, until t» surface
Is 1 rfoetlj sti-oc ■».
X\ •en thb’ is <! u- the si bunt
up < > dry after w i ch tbev are i it in the
T. .• <i -err ■ »t --nr;’
,l •» i Mid rcvolv i by mnvhtmiy until
the < r la ihorot'g.ily cleaned. It is then
’ tsk n out. shakv.i and taken to the cape
t-mhufaeiory, where the fur dressers'
"llave you any weal furs?"" I Inquired,
row. You see the fur-cleaning season be
ph,a about February. Hut I will show you
Low we dress It,"
I followed him Into a sort of store room
where he lifted a piece of burlap and
if they might have com* from the slaugh-
ter-house. The coarse, ugly-looking yel
lowish hair, stiffened w-ith salt water, was
anything but attractive. But this, he
said, was sealskin.
“When we get these skins,” he ex
plained, “they are first blubbered, that
is, the under layer of fat is removed
then put into very hot, soapy water, and
rubbed and soused until the salt Is all
soaked out. After that they are partially
dried before a fire. Then, before the skin
is thoroughly dry, the men take it, and
with a knife that is not sharp enough
to cut, and a rubber thumb protector,
they pull out all the outer layer of hair,
leaving the soft, downy fur beneath, which
you women never tire of.
“It takes one man a whole day to re
move the coarse hair of a large seal. Af
ter this the fur is treated in much the
same way as other furs. Os course, all
seal is dyed, but then so are a great many
others.”
“Aren’t people often duped with imi
tation furs?”
“Well, I should say so! Now, here is
the skin of a skunk which probably never
traveled six miles from his underground
lodgings in New York state; but when we
get through with him he will become
Alaska sable, or black marten from British
America. We make mink fur from the
musk rat, and Canadian seal is either
muskrat or rabbit. That fur on your
coat, which you think is marten is really
muskrat, and they have spoiled it by dye
ing it. Real muskrat is a very pretty fur.’-
His conversation was assuming an un
comfortably personal character, and I
trembled,to think what sham this lynx
eyed expert would discover next; so I
turned attention to an ermine skin that
was lying on his bench, and asked him:
“What do they use to imitate this? White
kittens?”
"No, white rabbits and the tails of little
kids. They use a little black kid which
lives in Europe. There is always a bit
of real yellow ermine left over, and this
is sewed around the little black tall, and
when it Is laid upon the white rabbit skin
it is very difficult to detect the imitation.
“Besides these imitations there Is a
great difference in the quality of furs of
the same name. Here is a chinchilla skin
from Peru which is worth about a dozen
Bolivian chinchillas. You see how long
and close the hair Is and what a silvery
sheen It has? The Bolivian looks like cat
fur beside it, as you can see by comparing
them.”
He the’n showed me a Russian sable
skin, which had not been cut and was
Just as the animal looked when he was
alive, except that his salWeshlp had been
taken out from under his own coat. I
then realized as I never did before how
much more beautiful the cloudy, creamy,
brown Russian sable is than that which
comes from other countries.
“That one little skin is worth SIOO, and
you can edsily see why Russian sable can
not become common.” /
I thought I could, for this skin was
barely enough to make a boa after it was
cut and spread out to its fullest extent;
but If I had had “the bonus,” as the Bow
ery boys say, I should have bagged this
furry game without another word.
As it was, I had seen enough to fill my
heart with hardness toward the plutocrats
who wear whole capes of Russian sable,
and are not compelled to go about with
masquerading muskrats on their coats.
Annie L. Woods.
THE GOSSIP OF GOTHAM.
Copyright.
New York, Oct. 26.—The repeatedly ma le
announcements that Mr. and Mrs. W. K.
Vanderbilt will be remarried involve noth
ing that was not well understood at the
time of the granting of the divorce. Many
persons were aware that some such re
conciliation was contingent upon the re
formation of Mr. Vanderbilt. But the
idea that any remarriage will take place
within a short time is based upon a mis
apprehension. Mr. Vanderbilt may, no
doubt, be willing to propitiate matters.
But his wife (she is still given that name
and title) has anything but a disposition
to be hasty. Hbwever, Mr. Vanderbilt
is becoming a very reformed man indeed,,
and that fact is winning him golden
opinions. He no longer Indulges in idle
vanities and meaningless diversions. He
manifests a disposition to take up serious
work. It leaks out by the way that Mr.
Vanderbilt recently refused a decoration
from the Prince of Monaco. It was that
of tne order of Monaco, and he would
have been, in case of his acceptance,
Sir William. He would have been entitled
to wear the Monaco badge and to be a
court attendant with “Monaco et Nobll
itas" as a device. Os course Mr. Vander
bilt was not to be caught by such idle trap
pings. The late William Henry Hurlbert
was a knight of this description, and a
very dubious honor it proved to be.
Precisely as the republicans of the Em
pire state mean to support a favorable
son In the national convention, do the
democrats propose to follow similar tac
tics. But the question is upon whom that
honor will fall. This aspect brings out very
clearly the surprising truth that Senator
Hill will make no effort to secure votes
for himself. Even by this time, however,
where the course of events should have
enlightened them, the majority of New
Yorkers refuse to believe that Hill no long
er has the presidential bee in his bonnet.
On the contrary it is assumed that he is
as eager for the nomination as ever. Now
Cleveland is entirely out Os the situation.
No one doubts this. Mr. Hill will not try
to be nominated. The only national char
acter left is Mr. Whitney. There can be
no doubt whatever that the latter gentle
man will have the delegation. Those who
admit, this in a tentative way are Roswell
P. Flower, Richard Croker, Perry Belmont
and even Mr. Hill. The arrangement is a
thoroughly understood one. Mr. Hill is
chiefly responsible for It. The mysterious
motive he may have in thus hurrying awav
from the presidential lightning remains
unfathomed. But that he has done so is be
yond dispute. To repeat, Mr. Hill is not
and will not be an aspirant for the votes
of the New Y’ork delegates in the next na
tion convention.
Jt I \ a , J raet now attracting notice that
the children of Mr. Grover Cleveland
all bear a marked resemblance to him
self. It is further noteworthy that noth
ing is more characteristic of the fatherly
pride of the President than the pleasure
he feels in any allusion to this circum
; stance. Miss Marion is more like her fa
ther than any of the others. She en
grosses all her mother’s time, and the
lady of the white house will be very lit
tle in evidence, socially, this winter, in
consequence. It is no secret that the
President rather regrets that he has no
son. and Mrs. Cleveland was rather dis-
I appointed by the sex of her last child.
; I All the same she is a very fond mother.
It is a peculiarity of Mrs. Cleveland's
I that she will not allow a nurse to dress
her little ones, but performs that office
herself. This is certainly one of the
. fondest mothers tn America and her do
mes-tie tastes cruse the socio 1 side of
i this admlnistmt n to be les brilliant
i the iit might. Ji s. Cleveland ha« ;o far
. ' re.- -lately refuse to enaorse t.e "new’
i wo tan in any way. r.otwlt. stand big
• i nu< .y uttemp--; t« ’ln nice her t< to .
The refusal of die Pr rh’.enCt wife to
’•sv anything t< !o a t>. t.e .. «• wo
• niitM-i , ,u h annoyance to va
st- ic.u: .Hu New Y’cik. It seems that
• . Sot J ls has endeavored to get some official
- t re-, ,nition from the first lady in the land,
i [ but without success. This is responsible
i for a certain degree of coldness in the ex-
- ' nresslon of certain New York ladies when
I Mrs. Cleveland is mentioned. But be
. tween Mrs. Cleveland and Helen Gould a
■ j very warm friendship exists. This is due
rI to the Interest in kindergarten work
• | shared between them. Miss Gould, it ap
i ■ pears, ttrst became intimate with Mrs.
Cleveland through Mrs. Russell Sage, and
i I their mutual esteem has grown ever since.
I I Now Miss Gould has an especial horror
- expressed herself thus on more than one
THE WEEKLY NEWS (TWO-TIMES-A-WEEK): THURSDAY. OCTOBER 31, 1895.
occasion, saying indeed that blood and
thunder and women seem to go together
nowadays. But women who are conspic
uous in the new woman movement are, in
most cases, writers, and they were offend
ed by Miss Gould’s utterance. Her friend
ship for Mrs. Cleveland diverted some
what of this enmity to the latter lady.
Mr. Perry Belmont has now become
the leader of fashion so far as men are
concerned in the metropolis. His clothes
are faithfully copied and his mannerisms
are models upon which the gay youth of
the city model themselves. The fact that
he patronizes a certain restaurant brings
crowds to it at meal time, solely for me
purpose of gazing upon the Beau Brum
mel of the hour. In this respect Mr. Bel
mont is unique. As for politics, his hand
is seen in every deal and intrigue. One
of the most int Testing sources of spec
ulation to those who watch him is his
future. His ambition is boundless. Should
he become governor, the presidency would
be the logical sequel. He is quite young
yet, and therefore he can afford to wait
for the next century before the chief
magistracy of the nation comes to him. His
thorough agreement with Hill and Tam
many in no sense deprives him of the
support of that element known as better.
His amiable capacity for facing both ways
has stood him in good stead more than
once. He is the only American living who
is a social as well as a political boss. Pie
does well in both fields.
The arrival of the Shathzarda in New
York is awaited with eager interest by
all classes. It is asserted that he- pro
poses to spend no less than a million
dollars in the metropolis. The young
prince will disport himself in pretty much
the fashion that won him such unique
fame in London. He will be toted through
the streets in a palanquin by two Af
ghans in knickerbockers. He will appear
in public on any and every occasion, and
address the mob in Persian fashion. His
attempts to civilize himself by means of
European uress and the wearing of a
mustache, are said to render the young
man more striking personally than ever.
His fondness for sports of all kinds and
his readiness to bestow rich gifts upon
pugilists and jockeys commend him to me
favorable notice of these gentry. In fine,
the young prince will be heartily welcome
to New xork. His advent will not he
quite the sensation in society circles that
it must prove elsewhere. Indeed, for an
heir to a throne, the oldest in the world,
perhaps, the Shahzarda does not have
auite the social influence outside of
Persia that one might expect. In other
directions, though, his influence is great.
To repeat, he will be welcome in New
York. David Weschler.
DECU LIAR in combination, pro
■ portion and preparation of ingredi
ents,Hood’s Sarsaparilla possesses great
curative value. You should TRY IT.
CONGRESS OF THE EDUCATORS.
A Pessimistic View of American
Citizenship.
Atlanta, Ga., Oct. 28.—A pappr was read
from President Andrews of Bro-wn Uni
versity at to-day’s national educa
tional congress which caused a sensa
tion. President Andrews was not pres
ent and his paper was read by Prof.
Slaton of Atlanta. The audience thought
that Prof. Andrews took a pessimistic
view of American citizenship. He held
that the lowest type of population will
sink much lower—to the level of the
Chinese—if something is not done to ele
vate it. He approved combinations of
labor to increase wages, saying the em
ployers who could not pay an increase
would have to quit business and leave
it to those who could pay more. He ad
vocated compulsory education between
the ages of two and a half and sixteen,
beginning with the kindergarten and
keeping the children in school ten months
in the year. He favored a non-sectarian
system of universal education. Such
churches as desire, said he, could have
their chapels and priests adjacent to the
schools and instruct any pupils going
and coming whose parents desired their
spiritual welfare looked after.
Dr. Harris of the United States com
mission criticised the paper of President
Andrews, who declared that the rich are
getting more numerous, absorbing the
middle class, and the poor are coming
up in the scale, receiving better wages
and acquiring more intelligence.
President Gilman of Johns Hopkins
University proposed a message of sym
pathy to the faculty and trustees of the
University of Virginia for the loss by
yesterday’s fire. A telegram was sent.
A WOMAN KILLED BY A TRAIN.
She Wai Struck While Crossing; the
Track at Atlanta.
Atlanta, Ga., Oct. 28.—An unknown wo
man, evidently about 50 years of age, and
wearing a heavy veil, was run over and
killed at the Ella street crossing of the
Southern railway at 9:30 o’clock this morn
ing. The woman, who had the appearance
of a country woman, was in the act of
crossing the track, and on account of her
heavy veil did not see the approaching
train, which was one of the exposition
line, the engine being the same one that
ran over ana killed A. E. Choate, the in
surance man, at the same place two weeks
ago. The body, which was badly mangled,
was taken to* Patterson's undertaking es
tablishment and an inquest held, but up
to the present time it has not been identi
fied, although viewed by a large number of
people. The woman carried a small
sachel when the train struck her, but
this contained only clothing, and gave no
clue to her identity.
GROSS PENSION FRAUDS.
Negro Women Pose ns Widows of
Federal Soldiers.
Raleigh, N. C., Oct. 28.—The session of
the United States court began at Newbern
to-day. There are several cases before
the court, in which gross pension frauds
are charged. It is alleged that several
pension attorneys arranged a plan by
which negro women made affidavits that
they were widows of federal soldiers wno
had enlisted in large numbers in that
section, and thus obtained pensions, and
that such division of spoils was made
that the promoters of the scheme have
in the course of years made large sums.
Witnesses from Washington city are pres
ent. One of the men charged with being
a promoter of this bold scheme is a
wealthy resident of Newbern.
MRS. JEAN HAMMOND DEAD.
She Gained Notoriety in Connection
With the Redwine Case.
Atlanta, Ga., Oct. 28.—Information of
the death at Montgomery of Mrs. Jean
Hammond, the woman who figured in the
sensational Redwine case, was received
here to-day. Mrs. Hammond, who, at the
time, was a popular girl in good society,
was supposed to be Redwine’s mistress,
and was arrested in the hope of recover
ing part of the missing funds of the Gate
City Bank, but it turned out that there
was only a slight acquaintance between
her and the defaulting cashier, and she
had none of the m6ney.
A Dwelling Burned.
Sylvania, Ga., Oct. 28.—The two-story
I dwelling house occupied by J.',-. H. W.
' Be son and far ily on East Ogcccheo
str et, in this r ice, was bus ;d down
ye erday aftorr. in about I o’clock. The
iso e was nlrr.os . wrapped in flames be
for the fire was discovered. No one was
•it ijr at the time and nearly every
: thiag was lost. Mr. Benson thinks the
i fire must have originated from some em
bers on the hearth. The house belonged
I to Dr. S. W. Mims and was insured for
i S9CO. Mr. Benson had some insurance on
his furniture.
Augusta's New School Principal.
Augusta, Ga.. Oct. 28.—The board of
education to-night elected Henrv Garrett
principal of the Davidson grammar school,
to fill the vacancy caused by the death
of Prof. George M. Ransom.
I A strong effort was made to elect Miss
I Maggfe Bleakley, who has taught in the
public schools for years, but it was the
sentiment of the board that the position
should be filled by a man. No woman
I has ever been elected prin -!?al of any of
1 the public schools of Augusta
THE WOMAN
OF FASHION.
New York, Oct. 26.—1 n establish
ing June and October as the
wedding months of the year the
fashion makers must have had an eye
to business. For, as each of these months
introduces a new season, a wedding at
the beginning of either is bound to bring
out a great many new gowns and thus
set the fashions for the ensuing two
months. And it is not merely one wed
ding, but half a dozen, involving the ne
cessity of several swell gowns, for no
body likes to wear the same costume
more than twice on the same sort of an
occasion.
Perhaps it is this which accounts for
the enormous amount of velvet seen on
the streets thus early in the season. Vel
vet is eminently fitted for wedding wear—
not for the bride or bridesmaids, but for
the dames and dowagers who attend t%
lend eclat to the occasion.
Only the very wealthy can aspire to
whole velvet gowns in these days of im
measurable skirts and sleeves; but as
trimming, the royal fabric appears on
nearly every gown that’s made.
A fancy velvet, brocaded in peacock
shades, is seen in the sleeves of many
of the imported coats. It would seem that
the plain velvet which was all that was
once expected, ought to satisfy the most
fastidious, but now it must do more than
shimmer and glow, it must blaze with jet
and jewel beading. If the beading is not
actually imbedded in the velvet, it is put
on in the form of passementerie trimming
to finish the edges. ’
A gorgeous gown, and a striking ex
ample of the new trimmed skirt, was of
old blue cloth and black velvet. The skirt
had a simulated petticoat of black vel
vet, over which the cloth, scalloped around
the edge, was stitched down and finished
with jet trimming. The waist was trimmed
with mink fur, and the costume was
crowned by a stunning black hat which
looked “great,” as some boys say, against
the golden hair of the girl that wore it
There are three shades of blue that
are worn this season: The old blue, the
national blue, and that, warm, intense
blue that one thinks of first when color is
mentioned. It is the blue of the old-fash
ioned blue sash that our grandmothers
wore with their best white dresses when
they were little girls. This is the shade
that will be most fashionable. It appears
in the ribbons and in the new silk and
wool materials.
The best way to find out what the fash
ionable colors are is to go to the ribbon
counter. This counter, by the way, is one
of the best patronized in the stores.
Everybody wants to buy a yard and a
half of ribbon to ma,ke one of those stun
ning collars with the big round bow at
the back of the neck. The ribbon used is
six inches wide. It is laid in three pleats
around the neck and tied in an ordinary
t,ow —two loops and two ends —at the back
but the ribbon is so wide that, when loops
and ends are made the same
length, the bow looks perfectly
round. Dresden ribbon with the fig
ure woven in is the favorite silk ribbon
for these collars. Very many of them are
made of velvet in all the lovely new shades
of yellow, blue, and magneta. Straps made
of a band of insertion with lace edges are
passed around the collar as if to keep
the pleats in place. Sometimes there are
four of these, sometimes only two. It is
one of the easiest to make and one of the
most generally becoming of the new neck
fixings Any piece of ribbon that is wide
enough may be used, but the prettiest ones
are made of striped or plaid silk ribbons
or velvet in the new shades.
A pretty ribbon about seven inches wide
has large black and white and pink checks.
Other large checks are green and white
or yellow and white, and a collar like the
above made of . this checkerboard riblxm
is very stunning. The wide ribbon may be
bought for 75 cents a yard, but the very
handsome bows are made of Dresden or
velvet or plaid ribbon that retails at $2.50
a yard.
A woman’s dress waist these days Is
like a salad. It doesn't matter much about
the basis of either just so the dressing is
good.
Any clever woman can have a pretty
waist if she uses her eyes and observes
how easily a plain dress is transformed
into a party gown by the addition of a
collarette. The new collarettes have long
tabs on the shoulders, and either tabs
or points in front. These are made of
lace insertion, of ribbon or of passemen
terie, and are edged with wide lace gath
ered very full. Sometimes the lace is
draped up on the shoulders to resemble
a bow knot, but the long sloping effect on
the shoulder is preferable.
The lace fichu that resembles a small
shoulder shawl is coming in again. It
is worn with a vest front and does not
come together or cross in front as it
was once worn, but is fastened at the
waist on each side of the chiffon vest.
This style of wearing the fichu makes
it more desirable for young women.
The box pleat or straps down the
front of a blouse is still in favor. It is
usually made of a strip of lace inser
tion. A pretty front is of mull crossed
with lace insertion at intervals of two
or three inches. These straps come ,n
sets with collar and cuffs to match.
The collar that is made of five-square,
lace-edged tabs sewed to a band that is
placed inside the dress collar, is the
most popular. These are made of mull,
linen, satin—any material that looks well
with a lace edge.
Some of the new collars are made all
in one piece to turn down over the dress
collar in a good old-fashioned style. These
have cuffs to match and are very effec
tive. Others are of bolting cloth. Some
fine black ones were daintily embroider
ed in black.
A few starched linen cuffs and collars
are worn, but most people prefer the fine
materials to soften the effects of the
heavy woolen gowns.
All of the neck fixings I have men
tioned can be easily made, but if one buys
them outright they are very expensive.
Fine Swiss makes pretty collars and
cuffs and pretty fronts,i and it is so eas
ily tucked bv hand that one can make a
front in a couple of hours. There are
some new cM>llars and cuffs that are made
in points of tine cambric that look exact
ly as if they were the comers of lace
edged handkerchiefs. One handkerchief
that is torn could make a set of neck and
sleeve wear. All that is necessary is to
cut off the corners and sew two on a neck
band and one each on a band for the cuffs—
a process which would take about fifteen
minutes, thus saving a handkerchief and
at the same time covering up one's soiled
dress collar and sleeves.
A pretty device that covers up nearly
the whole of one’s waist is the black
satin sailor collar with a tucked Swiss,
and lace front. The sailor collar is very
wide in the back, reaching more than
half way to the waist. It may be banded
with insertion and edged with lace, or
trimmed was passementerie. It does not
come together in front, but most dresses
have these nowadays, and by the addition
of some of the lace tabs already described
the dress collar may be made to harmonize
very prettily with the tucked front. The
whole makes a very stunning costume of
a simple black frock.
For outside wear, the fashionable girl
still clings to lacey. fluffy things about
he” neck. One of the most stylish girls
I have seen this fall wore a black gown
w : h a flaring ne ’t ruche of stiff, but fine
bl k net. It st. >d out eight inches, up
;ar ;hd her face nd head and out over
he ’ shoulders. There as a smart bow at
the back of the neck and a pink rose oh
one shoulder. Her hat was black with
ostrich feathers and pink flowers under
neath next the hair.
Such wraps as the above are being
worn until the cold weather drives us to
something warmer, but all the indications
point to the fact that this is to be a fur
sea«on. Dresses are trimmed with it,
hats, wraps, even lace collarettes. An
earlv autumn dress has its fur trimming
put on in a very sensible way. The skin
is not cut up into little edges that have
no warmth in them, and are a waste ot
heat-giving clothing, but is placed on the
eshoulder, whole, to protect the upper
arm. The lower edge is slashed to resem
ble tails that suggest the passementerie
points worn on the sleeves nowadays.
But it is a pity to put on fur before
Thanksgiving, for there is plenty of time
to wear it after that, and one edn get too
much ot even so good a thing as fur.
Alice Amory.
PLANT DAY AT THE BIG SHOW.
THREE TRAIN LOADS OF EMPLOYES
TAKEN TO THE CITY.
——— i
Vice President Hemphill of the Ex
position Company Makes the Ad
dress of Welcome and Is Followed
by Mayor Porter King—Morton F.
Plant Responds for His Father.
Judge Fallignnt Speaks for Savan
nah—Mr. Plant Greatly Moved by
the Expressions of Good Will and
Esteem.
Atlanta, Ga., Oct. 28.—Three train loads
of employes of the Plant railroad and
steamship system and of the Southern
Express Company came here to-day to
celebrate the seventy-sixth anniversary
of the birthday of President H, B. Plant.
Mr. Plant’s railways and the express
companies of which he is the head ramify
the whole south. His railways cover the
statqp of the South Atlantic coast. His
steamship lipes extend from Nova Scotia
to Havana and Jamaica, and his express
companies cover all the territroy from
the Potomac to the Rio Grande. He has
been a conspicuous figure in transporta
tion circles ever since the war, and he
has been a constant developer. His em
ploys were given a holiday to come to
the exposition, and it was in the audito
rium on the exposition grounds that the
anniversary was celebrated. Many of
the general officers of the Plant proper
ties came, and every department was
represented down to the track hands.
Vice President Hemphill of the exposi
tion made the address of welcome, and
he was followed by Mayor Porter King.
Morton F. Plant responded, for his
Tn t h or
Judge Robert Falligant of Savannah
spoke for his city, which is the head
quarters of the railway lines.
Mr A. A. Wiley expressed the cor
dial good wall and thorough de
sire of the employes to co-operate
at all times with the president and
his general officers.
Mr. Plant, who had come south from
New York to attend the celebration, was
deeply moved by the remarks addressed
to him. He replied with emotion, thank
ing the exposition company, Atlanta and
his employes for their consideration. He
said that he would take advantage ot
the occasion to address some advice to his
men.
After paying a glowing tribute to At
lanta and the exposition, President Plant
said: “As I said, lam pleased to see such
a large representation here. It is very
gratifying to me. It is. gratifying to know
that so many could be spared from their
duties without disadvantage to the pub
lic whom we serve, I say it to the heads
of the departments and the various mem
bers of the departments, that they should
make and embrace the opportunity. You
all know the general principles that have
influenced us in the management of the
Plant system. It was to prepare the way
to make as good a means of communica
tion as possible with the means we had at
hand. We have used of these means
freely, not only myself, but my associates,
have not been stingy with them. We
have put them out with the hope of some
day reaping a benefit from them, which
is proper. All men seek to benefit them
selves, but there has • been behind
it, as your president and the
honorable ' mayor have suggested, a
desire to do good to our fellow men. vV e
have at least been able to furnish good
means of transportation and I am pleased
to know that as far as our friends here
are concerned it is appreciated by our
patrons. „ . .. .
"But we would have you recollect that
we are the servants of the people who are
our patrons to the extent that we must
treat their property while in our pos
session with all the care we would our
own. We must be careful of our man
ners and our speech. We must see to it
that no patron of the Plant system ever
comes to employes and asks for infor
mation without getting it to the full.
We must see to it that our connecting
lines, our railways, not in which We have
an interest, but in which the public havb
an interest, receive plroper treatment.
Be sure that we cannot well serve the
public without we treat our allies lines
falrlv justly and properly. Be sure of
that. Be sure that we are
not all for ourselves. We are public ser
vants and those we must serve with the
rights of recognition of our patrons.
We must never take a customer’s money
without giving him his money’s worth.
All this is very easy to say, but it is
very difficult in the human mind to carry
it out We must recognize them and,
we must school ourselves in the effort to
learn how all these thihgs are accom
plished. How are the railroads built?
How are they used? Where does the
money come from that does it. It is
in the union of men of means. It is the
union of means with labor. That is how
it is accomplished. There can be little
usefulness in an effort to accomplish
good in this age without union. This
exposition could not have been carried
on, could not have been established,
could not present to you the grandeur it
does now, except with the union of cap
ital with men of enterprise. Look at th«J
states that are represented here,
not only the states of
this United States government,
but you find foreign states. 1 find the
Central American republics are well rep
resented here. These unions that depend
upon the voice of the people for the gov
ernment are here. They are getting in
line with us. Many of the states of the
union are here. They are here to co-op
erate with us of the south in this great
work. What is it to advance the interest
of the people?. That is what it is for.
The United States government even
makes a large appropriation and sends
down many of its people and many of
its products. What for? To illustrate it
self and its people. It is union. Let us
all remember we must be united with our
connecting railways for the benefit of the
people as well.”
Mr. Plant was frequently interrupted
by applause, the 3,000 present rising as
one man at the conclusion, and giving
him an ovation.
DEFECTS IN THE MAINE.
The Ship Down by the Head When
Loaded and I.iMts to Starhoard.
Washington, Oct. 28.—Secretary Herbert
this afternoon made the following official
statement about the defects in the Maine:
"The Maine was designed to be on an
even keel at her draught of 21 feet 6
inches with 400 tons of coal on board.
She has now been fully loaded with over
800 tons of coal and her draught forw-ard
is two feet five inches greater than aft.
This is not uncommon. Many other ships
when fully loaded are down by the head
more or less. When the ship has been at
| sea a few days she will be using the coal,
which is generally taken from the forward
part of the vessel. It would, of course,
be preferable that the vessel should not be
down by the head quite so much as she
; is, but this' will be corrected by the use
of the after trimming tank provided for
this purpose, and by some shifting of
stores to the after store rooms, not now
used. It perhaps may be also necessary
to add some permanent ballast.
"As to the listing of the Maine to star
board, this is not a matter of impor
tance. It can be easily corrected by an
adjustment of the weights in loading. The
Atlanta and Boston have born proved to
be very serviceable ships, but in each of
I these there is a list nearly double that
; of the Maine, and this is also corrected
! by loading. These vessels both list when
; unloaded about 7 degrees, or nearly dou
ble the list of the Maine. The old frigate
United States, which was a splendid ves
sel in her day, was required to be trimmed
28 inches by her head to get her full
speed.”
SINCE the.WAR
RHEUMATISM radically CURED in every
case since 1861, with Famous Prescrip
tion 100,384. Prepared by Muller, 42 Uni
versity PI., N. Y. MUSCULAR, GOUTY, SCIATIC,
INFLAMMATORY, etc. Pleasant to take. 75c. Bot.
Ail druggists. Book Free. Avoid Imitations,*
ENJOY LlFE.—Bismarck Bitters once a day, will
give you Strong Stomach, Active Liver, Perfect
Health Sold Everywhere. 75c. and $1.25.
SURE CURE roe PILES
IWhlßg and Blind. Bleeding or Protruding Plle« yield at ocee to
PR. 80-SAN-KO S »ILE REMEDY. Stop, itch
in*, ab.ort>« taewrr. a po,Hire euro ( .rcunrs sent tree. Price
Wc. Urussbuernuu;. 11K. BUsAMaO, Philo., Pm,
CASTORIA
Castoria is Dr. Samuel Pitcher’s prescription for Infants
and. Children. It contains neither Opium, Morphine nor
other Narcotic substance. It is a harmless substitute
for Paregoric, Drops, Soothing Syrups, and Castor Oil.
It is Pleasant. Its guarantee is thirty years’ use by
Millions of Mothers. Castoria is the Children’s Panacea
—the Mother’s Friend.
Castoria.
•‘Castoria is so well adapted to children that
I recommend it as superior to any prescription
known to me.” H. A. Archer, M. D.,
11l So, Oxford St., Brooklyn, N. Y.
—————— «
“The use of ‘Castoria’ is so universal and
its merits so well known that it seems a work
of supererogation to endorse it. Few are the
intelligent families who do not keep Castoria
within easy reach.”
Carlos Martyn, D. D.,
New York City,
A CASE FOB, THE GOVERNOR.
That Is What is Thought of the
Zeigler Case.
Sylvania, Ga., Oct. 28.—There are no new
developments in the case of the Zeiglers.
They are still at their home, and no
further attempt has been made to arrest
them. In fact, no attempt has been made,
as Sheriff Mills only went out to see
them in a quiet way to find out if they
would give up. Mr. Mills said they talked
to him pleasantly, but did not invite hin|
in and show him how they had barricaded
the house, etc., as has been reported.
Os course, a good many exaggerated re
ports have gotten out as to what the
Zeiglers have said and are prepared to
do; but still, every one in the county re
alizes that the situation is a serious one.
The sheriff insists that he cannot get a
posse, and it is extremely doubtful if
he can. The attorney general, too, says
that the sheriff is not armed with any pen
alties of the law by which he can force
men to go. For parties in this immediate
section to take a hand in the affair, no
matter whether they succeeded in killing
or capturing the Zeiglers, would, without
doubt, involve further trouble, and it
would be hard to foresee the end of the
affair. Every one realizes, too, that it
would be at the risk of life that any posse
approached the house and attempted to
take them.
Everybody here believes that the Zeig
ler boys would have all the reinforce
ments they wanted, on short notice, if
an arresting? party from this section
should go there. While it is too sweep
ing to say that all the populists in the
county would stand by them, yet the
majority are inclined to justify them in
what they have done. Their argument
is, that a true bill should have been
found against Brooker, for the shooting
of George Zeigler, when it was taken
before the grand jury; and that as this
was not done, and Brooker was never
tried, the Zeigler boys had a right to
deal out justice with their own hands,
and to revenge their father’s death.
It is a serious and deplorable state of
affairs into which we have come. Our
wisest and coolest heads cannot tell
what is best To involve the county, or
even a portion of it, in a feud which
might continue indefinitely, would be to
make matters even worse than they are
now; and still, to let the thing go on as
it is now, is a death-blow to law and
order and a license to lawlessness. The
only solution seems to be for the gover
nor to step in and direct what should be
done. Our authorities here are powerless
they know and understand the deep and
bitter feeling that there is in the mat
ter; they know that there is a possibility,
and even a strong probability, of num
bers of others on both side becoming in
volved, whenever a posse from this sec
tion makes an attempt to take the Zeig
lers—and the prospect of an internecine
strife of that kind is enough to make the
most zealous pause.
The excitement has not abated in the
county, and everyone is waiting in sus
pense. There was probably never a case
of the kind in Georgia before—where men
defied the law so openly and boldly and
were backed up in it by at least one
third of the white population of the
county. That the governor will take
charge of affairs, and that at an early
day, is the hope of our people.
FOUND DEAD.
The Facts Indicate That Zack Tay
lor Was Murdered.
Daisy, Ga., Oct. 28.—The body of Zack
Taylor, a young man formerly of Barnwell
county, South Carolina, but recently of
Tattnall county, Georgia, was found in
the road near J. R. Alford & Co.’s turpen
tine still about 8 o’clock Saturday night.
The grounds round about showed no signs
of scuffling and it is the general impres
sion that the murderers placed the body
in the road, thinking that it would appear
that he had met his death by being thrown
from his horse. His head was badly
bruised and swollen, showing that he had
received a number of blows from a heavy
club. His clothes were also badly cut,
which indicated murderous intentions.
The coroner’s inquest, which is still in
progress, has failed to find any reliable
clew to the perpetrators of the horrible
deed.'
Farmer Branan had paid him 58.75 Satur
day morning, and as something near that
amount was found in his pockets, it
would seem that his slayers were not after
booty.
MAY BE WILL MYERS.
—V
A Man Who Look* Like the Fugitive
Seen Xe.'.r
Macon Ga., Oct. 28.—A man su-’pcncJ to
be Will Myers uas seen at Montezuma
to-day. He was rowing down the river
and stopped to ask some negroes for
something to eat. His description an
swers that of Myers, the condemned
murderer who escaped from Atlanta. A
posse started in pursuit of the man in
the boat, but he escaped into a swamp.
Scarlet Fever at Augusta.
Augusta, Ga., Oct. 28.—The fourth son of
Dr. Thomas D. Wright died to-night, after
a week's illness with a virulent case of
scarlet fever. It is not known how he
contracted it, as there is not another case
in the city.
Daughters of the Confederacy,
Atlanta, Ga., Oct. 28.—The Daughters
of the Confederacy will meet here Nov.
9, and the convention called for Nash
ville will assemble here. Arrangements
for the assembly are being made by the
Atlanta chapter.
What is
Castoria.
Castoria cures Colic, Constipation,
Sour Stomach, Diarrhcea, Eructation,
Kills Worms, gives sleep, and promotes dl»
gestion,
Without injurious medication.
“For several years I have recommended
‘Castoria,’ and shall always continue to do
so, as it has invariably produced beneficial
results.”
Edwin F. Pardee, M. D.,
125th Street and 7th Ave., New York City,
The Centaur Company, 77 Murray Street, New York City.
CAROLINA’S CONVENTION.
State Bonds Talked of to Put the
Counties on a Cask Basis.
Columbia, S. C., Oct. 28.—When the con
stitutional convention reassembled thia
morning it began to run through the cal
endar. The article on jurisprudence was
passed to a third reading, including the
anti-lynch provisions, but the vote where
by the article was adopted was soon re
considered, and the matter passed over.
The convention then took up and was
still considering when the recess came, the
matter of authorizing an. issue of state
bonds to enable the counties of the state
to do business on a cash basis. The bonds
are to be floated at rates of interest not
greater than 4% per cent, and cannot be
sold at less than par. The counties are
to pay back the amount of the bonds to
the state. The issue will be for about
half a million dollars.
From 7:30 until 11:30 o’clock to-night
the convention was engaged in handling
the suffrage problem. The evening pro
ceedings were opened with a long speech
from R. B. Anderson, the negro delegate
from Georgetown. He pleaded the causa
of the negroes in a strong manner.
Mr. Burns followed him, making the
first speech on the white man’s side, re
plying to and dissecting the arguments
of the negroes. Then I. R. Read of
Beaufort, the sixth negro, made a strong
speech. On a roll call only these six. ne
groes voted against killing Delegate
Whipper’s universal “read and write”-
substitute plan.
The first two sections of the article re
ported by the committee were then
adopted.
When section 1 three, providing that
"every male citizen” be allowed to vote,
was called, Mr. Clayton offered a substi
tute to give the ballot to women also on a
property and educational qualification.
This brought the subject of woman’s suf
frage up squarely. Mr. Clayton made an
earnest plea for woman’s suffrage, as did
also Gen. R. R. Hemphill, and Dr. Tim
merman; the lieutenant governor, the lat
ter taking the high ground of the moral
elevation of the suffrage.
D. £3. Henderson said t«he arguments pre
sented simply showed cowardice; that tho
men wanted to bring the women in to
hide behind them and shield them from a
negro majority. He argued that they
should act like men, and said the report of
the committee was an excellent and manly,
one.
Col. John T. Sloan argued that it would
degrade woman. After a good many other
speeches, pro and con, the convention
adjourned, without taking any action.
CAROLINA’S REGISTRATION LAW,
The Motion to Diamiga the Appeal
Submitted.
Washington, Oct. 28.—A motion to dis
miss the appeal from the judgment of
the court of appeals for the fourth cir
cuit in the South Carolina registration
law case was submitted to the sujrreme
court of the United States to-day upon
briefs filed by Attorney General Farber
of South Carolina in support of the mo
tion, and by Henry N. O’Bear in oppo
sition. The original complainant in th®
case brought suit for an injunction re
straining the registration officers of the
state from preventing him registering
in time to vote for candidates for the
constitutional convention now in session
in that state. A temporary injunction
was issued by Judge Goff, which the cir
cuit court of appeals refused to make per
manent, dismissing the complainant. At
torney General Barber says the appeal
should be dismissed for two reasons:
1. That the judgment of the court of
appeals is conclusive; and,
2. That the election for members of
the constitutional convention having
passed off, there was no ground of con
troversy between the parties upon which
the supreme court of the United States
could operate.
OUR DRY DOCKS TOO SMALL.
The Texas Can Enter at Brooklyn
<, Safely Only at Water.
Washington, Oct. 28.—The navy depart
ment is again embarrassed over the dry
dock question, and the best government
dock in the United States—that at the
Brooklyn navy yard—is concerned. It
been deemed advisable to wait for hign
water before attempting to dock the bat
tleship Texas at Brooklyn, although It
was believed that the dock there was
capable of allowing the entrance of the
largest vessel in the navy at any tide.
The decision not to dock the Texas ex
cept at high water is due to the fact
that the sides of the dock are too angular
ly inclined Inward, making it somewhat
risky for a ship with so great ..a bulge as
the Texas to attempt to enter excepting
under the most favorable conditions. It
is known from comparative measurements
of the dock and the battle ship that the
latter can enter at low tide, but. while th J
I undertaking Is net considered dangerous,
t‘- department thinks it best to be on
me sale side.
T e Texas was recently ordered to be
i doc.led at the Norfolk navy yard, but
the depth of water thei?e was found to
tie inadequate for the purpose. The sit
uation at the Brooklyn yard is soinetvhat
more serious than it appears to be, for
it indicates that in the event of an. acci
dent to the Texas, her sister ship, ths
Maine, or larger vessels, there would be
no dry dock belonging to the govern
ment capable of accommodating them
without risk to their structures.
Buffalo Bill at the Show.
Atlanta, Ga., Oct. 28.—" Buffalo Bill”
gave his initial performance at the ex
position to-day to an immense audience.
He Is camped at the terminal of the South
ern railway.
A Decision Afllrnied.
Atlanta, Ga-, Oct. 28.—The supreme
court to-day affirmed the decision of the
lower court in the case of Fisher against
the Savannah Guano Company, from
Wilcox superior court.
7