Savannah weekly news. (Savannah) 1894-1920, June 13, 1898, Page 8, Image 8

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8 organ’s Wot Id. nr piqll<l -’ Hal,l •' ‘ ,,| ' v ,o 111; | ‘ ,_ ■HBIVn. who was one of ’h" wnit. i', bul.uio-s, ■ iny ||< :«r ...I-!, »"•' SEgfe/ffiß-> how you are going to conduct campaign?’’ B.mi I going to . ondii ’t my sum- Rnf.-iign? ' Hiie r«-J >«.•♦•■• I ,-iio-r i ;l <n ’■z<m<nt, pays Dorotny lux in the Picayune. ’’ -Balook of weariness and pain swept his face. “There,” he said, de- “it’s just as I suspected. Here ■you are about to plunge into a red-hot campaign without a particle of prepara r tion. You don’t even know what line you arc going to fight it out on. That's the most distressing thing about women. They never think until a thing is over, and I then it is too late. I don’t want to die courage you, but you had just as well make up your mind beofrehand that the Bummer resorts this season are going to be well nigh Adamless Edens, and the girl who has any partner at the hops ; or invitations to moonlight strolls is going to need to know all the pointe in the game she Is going to play. “Now, there are all sorts of girls, and they have got all sorts of chances, but you want to sort of classify yourself end isee In. which type you will be most effective. It is nothing but superhuman vanity that makce a woman think she can be everything, and do everything. In Bone role she is effective. In another she is ■absurd. You can’t imagine Julia Marlowe a coon song, can you, or Della Fox ' thrilling you as Lady Macbeth? There never was a more misleading fallacy than the old theory that woman made herself fascinating by being a creature of whims and moods, one thing one time, and some thing else the next. Nobody in these days has got the time, or is going to take the trouble to be always chasing around after a lively conundrum. “Now, being the daughter of a business you have doubtless heard It said that succeeds like a success. Nowhere ,he world 18 that truer tha “ 1,1 - jf you want to be a belle, and act like one. I have known mbt" l « lrlH w, "‘ *' r ' " r ' |,ls ,!1 '" Bk Bl ' v '"' ''' l o. ;.i. • ll' H ' H'l'l O' k. .w . lie •I ■ • ' I •" ' ' 1 l -'l- e Illi ’ t, ! JScXBe • 11 - "'• ‘ " n Io >■! in: i .I’ l : ii' O', I I I • ' v. 'h ’ v -jr ■ •• ••••h *•• i" "i' l l"'. t.» t•! " • what it is. but you will observe HVliHt in every ballroom there are invjiria ■Kly a hnlf dozen men falling over each ||Mther to dance with one girl, while an |Bther, jnat as pretty, just as desirable, as good a dancer, sits neglected by the wall. “Never dance with another girl. It is a public announcement that you were over looked by the men present, and another piX'ferred Ix'fora you, and so far is an of failure. You may not dance ■ because you aro tired, or the weather is ■ ho*, or for any other excuse that appears ■ reasonably plausible, and still retire from ■the ballroom floor with honor, and the of a victor, but to dance with another ■girl is a mortifying confession of defeat. ■This doe* not apply to long walks and ■talks with other girls. The woman who is ■ not beloved by her own sex, who does B not have girl friends, and like girls’ so- ■ clety, ti» always regarded with suspicion ■by men. Cultivate the society of other ■ Kiris. He nice to them, and generous with ■ them. Many a homely girl has got nice ■ brothers, so shall tho angel food you cast ■upon the waterw return to you after many ■days. :■ “Another thing, don’t to too hard to ■please. Kicking is a distinctly masculine Bl>erogatlve. A disgruntled, dissatisfied, woman Is something that strikes ■■terror to the boldest heart, and the hc- Kera have all gone off to the war this I ■mmer. Don't always Imj drawing <«>rn ■■Trlsons. If, with infinite trouble, some man manages to hire the solitary or the dilapidated carry-all of ■lie summer hotel don't enliven the occa- reminiscences of the time when were on somel»ody'a four-ln-hand and such a love of a time. If somebody ■jLs up n sandwich and beer supper and ■ itve you don't turn up your nose and ■s|B > ou ,u ’y ,hl "k |,llt birds and There it Mln f feminine in equal to adaptability. Ihe gill who do anything, who la re.ids for .my ■Hßg. who Is Hilling t<> be pl. .Is.‘d with ■jlßy I hul cone-, along. . m . iv. im laatify odds ill the game and beat •y'Uff every time. She is the one who is left out when the hay rides and fishing excursions and tenpin parties are made up. Every thing Is fair In love and war, and ut summer resorts, has long tx*cn a fav orite motto with the girl who thinks it knowing to try to monopolixe every man who comes along. She takes him off for long solitary walks, lnv«>lgles him into teteya-tsies, and wild horses couldn’t drag her into introducing him to another girl. ]t is u fatal mistake. He sets her down ««a selfish and jealous, and, worse than all,, she bort's him to death. My dear | child, no one person ta the whole show in I life. Two strangers can hdva little to e »y to each other, wltenas the introduc- ■ tion of others into the conversation mu ken everything smooth sailing. It is better to r be uno of a charming group than n solitary B bore. Never keep a man with you after he B txMiina to get tired, ties tired yourself H flrat. Anticipate the being tior.sl feeling. B «iul send him off. and the chances are w tu will hunt you up the next opportunity | |x-.ause hv will not be afraid of getting caught and having to stay. ■ “Ih'n’l hint. The |»oor summer resort man is seldom a disguised mi'.tion- He is only un imt>ecuntous wretch has «>ll he can do to buy a few pair« white duck troi's. rs and a handful of and give himself a couple of off aomewhere. lx urn to pass the active suds water counter without a W yearning glance. Cultivate a distaste for f jee ervatn. and <ton*t Imitate those young womtn <>f dlatMXk'vl ingenuity whi> spend th,’ summar getting up something that 1 cOSCa money fur the heat ben. Charity be h gins ut home tn not fiseclng tho poor. B tfowivtrodeo young men who do their hum- B brat In dancing at partloa all w inter blrsaed is site who IS not gel time Up souvenir wllretkm of anv kind what- * h " , *' rtV '’ * w * , ‘ ,n p ** <wu ‘ and sUck p*r.s, god belt buckles |H;nJ buttons.** b.u finish'd gotting her at this tx mark If he J«« •» he only faahiua as to the color of the huit with the urvdomuiant cotar *>.' into • fowr owr the unsatisfae- Mm* color of twr infant . hair in thia day ge*n ratta<i Ari • too tar ahead of r « Mrr <u hi a huie thm* ~.a , ~c uUt one. When the said Infant with the unsat isfactory hair reaches woman hood she can have hair of a color of her own choosing, from jet black to a sickly green, accord ing to her luck in getting hold of a first rate dye and'bleach. Blue in every imaginable shade and gray from a delicate pearl tint to a real Cincin nati soft coal-smoke color are the fashion able shades in dress this season, and as Ti tian hair goes best with both, that is the swell tint for woman’s manufactured crown of glory. It is frequently.asserted, says the New York Sun, that women do not change the color of their hair as they did formerly. That Is not true. More women dye their hair to-day than ever before, but the art has reached a stage when It is very hard to tell the real from the unreal when it comes to color. It is a fact, however, that far fewer women bleach their hair to a Broadway blonde shade than in years gone by. There are good reasons for this In the first place, this shade (everybody knows it) is in bad repute, and then it is produced by the use of powerful chemicals, which not only rot the hair at once, but, further more, in the end cause it to turn to some outlandish color, such as a bilious green. Bleached hair of this kind is one thing and dyed hair of the fashionable Titian tint quite another. There are several shades of Titan hair, and all are worn. A woman studies her eyes, complexion, the shape of her face, her costumes, and then selects the shade which will suit her best. The tint most to be desired is the pure Titian—a rich, warm red; but few women can afford to frame their faces in this. Nine out of ten have to vary it in one way or another. Some require lighter locks and others darker, and so it goes, but all are striv ing after the Titan effect. Indeed, this is absolutely necessary, for blue and gray are both cold colors, and unless a woman has some warmth in the color of ; ter hair they are exceedingly trying. When asked about the fashionable col ors in hair at the moment, a young wo man in an establishment famed for keep ing woman’s half up to date in the mat ter of color said: * l ßed is the prevailing color again this spring and summer, just as it was during the winter. Titian, people like to call it, but. it is no other than the pure old-time rich dark red such as we all hated when I was a little girl. It costs a woman just S3O to have her hair dyed, and it can be done in a morning. The process is simple, but a little tedious, and no sano woman should attempt to dye her own hair. A brick mason might just as well attempt to paint a frieze. In the first place hair should be dyed in such away as to defy detection. There's no sin in it then, pro vided a harmless vegetable dye ie used; the crime is in being found out. The hair is thoroughly shampooed first ao that not one particle of natural oil remains in it. When it is perfectly dry the artist takes it strand by strand and colors it by means of a fine toothbrush saturated with the dye, being careful not to touch the scalp. That ie the process, and once thoroughly dyed not even soap and water will take the color out or fade it. It is necessary occasionally to have it touched up a hit. “Now, about colors. The fashionable a lor ia dictated each season by the fash lable color in dress. Any one with any artlstio taste can readily see why Titian shades are worn now. Drab hair, black, and colorless blonde shades simply swear at the bright blues and beautiful but try ing whades of gray so much in vogue for gowns and hats. They harmonize about as well as a Puritanical preacher and a worldly congregation. Hair must have some life, some brightness in 4* color to look well when, blue or gray prevails in a woman’s dress. There are lots of shades of Titian, and women are guided by their eyes and complexions in selecting what is most becoming. For example, a woman with a florid complexion does not choose the dark shade, but the very lightest, while a girl with a white skin and no color seizes on the pure Titian. It is for tunate that hair which has been dyed be fore takes the red shades beautifully. There is no reason why any women who can afford to pay the price should be be hind the times in the color of her hair, and few really fashionable ones are.” There are many new styles of dressing the hair, but very high or very low coif fures prevail for house and evening wear. Ono thing is required, whether the coif fure Is high or low, and that is that the hair must be arranged around the face in the Marlborough puff, from ear to ear. The pert in woman’s hair has gone, the beautiful part, so distinctively feminine and ao much admired by man. None but an old lady parts her hair nowadays, un less it l» a young woman who wears her hair in that fashion because the one she loves the best of all wishes it. Even then she puffs the sides out. The Marlborough coiffure is the thing for Btreet wear. The hair is parted from ear to ear across the top of the head, so that almost as much can be combed down over the face aa is left in the back. This is carefully waved, and the back hair growing around the •ara and neck is waved too. The next thing to do ia to tie it securely with a string, being careful to pull the waved part out in a full puff all around behind. The front is combed out until very fluffy and puffed back, when the hair is twisted or braided into the shape of the figure 8. The rat which was born under thy front pompadour all winter is hopelessly out of style. Why? Because it is too stiff-looking and warm for summer use and looks al most ludicrous with shirt waists. tl\in gowns,and sailor hats. Indeed, tho inclina /tion Ia to wear the hair rut her flat in front and very much puffed out at the ’sides. Two or three very small love curls may hang down if the hair is coik'd, but nre not used when it Is braided. These can be bought, and they are an investment that saves a deal of trouble. They come at tached to hairpins warranted not to loosen, and they ar«' lucked in wherever they pro duce the most becoming effect. Unless a woman baa very regular features she should be careful to make her hair lie flat on her head when dressed in thia way. and If lhe forehead is not strikingly beautiful let her by all means arrange a tew care fully careice* curls over her temples. The "coquette’s coiffure" is very beauti ful ami becoming, but calculated to try the wearer’s temper in warm weather unless she is blessed with naturally curly hair. It is adapted Io almost all faces. To fashion it the hair must be well shttmitooed. which should be done at least twice a month if the hair is very oily and only once if nat urally dry. At the front, sides, and back, where it bordcrii on the neck, the hair La In the middle of the back of the head. It is twisted upward and rolled into three putts, projecting slightly above the crown of the head. The whole hair lies In ripples and has the look of a mast of curls. Matrons with a great deal of gray or whit«' hair wear it waved back from th« forehead in front and braided close to the | end in the hack in a long, narrow coiffure. Cut jet ornaments are used. If women could only be made to believe it, they make « great miatake in following the fashion in hair blittdb. Take the pom- IMdour, for instance. It la unbecoming to nine women out of ten, and yat fully that | proportion of wonun have adopted it. True | the softness that is given to tt by curling rvniters It possible for the majority of wo men to drew their ha?r but they would I tank bettor if they dnassed it in some atm l ph r way. Tbe port in the hair gives a face A ik*oiC of IHo often troy*. TM woman shows her charae* ter ut her way of wearing her hair. or. at pi\>%her v. If she come* her. womm may say that she looks but men wUI declare that I’HE WEEKLY NEWS CTWO-TIMES-A-WEEK): MONDAY, JUNE 13, 1898,' AN OPERATION AVOIDED. Mrs. Rosa Gaum Writes to Mrs. Pinkham About it. She Says: Dear Mrs. Pinkham:—l take pleas ure in writing you a few lines to in form you of the good your Vegetable Compound has done me. I cannot thank you enough for what your medi cine has done for me; it has, indeed, helped me wonderfully, For years I was trou- bled with an ovarian tumor, each year gr ow ing worse, un til at last I was compelled to consult with a physician. He said nothing could' be done for me but to go under an operation. In speaking with a friend of mine about it, she recommended Lydia E. Pinkham’s Vegetable Compound, say ing she knew it would cure me. I then sent for your medicine, and after tak ing three bottles of it, the tumor dis appeared. Oh! you do not know how much good your medicine has done me. I shall recommend it to all suffer ing women.—Mrs. Rosa Gaum, 720 Wall St., Los Angeles, Cal. The great and unvarying success of Lydia E. Pinkham’s Vegetable Com pound in relieving every derangement of the female organs, demonstrates it to be the modern safeguard of wo man's happiness and bodily strength. More than a million women have been benefited by it. Every woman who needs advice about her health is invited to write to Mrs. Pinkham, at Lynn, Mass. A pretty and stylish coiffure for the summer girl who spends most of her time golfitng, wheeling, boating, or indulging in other sports, is made by parting the hair and waving it on both sides close to the head. It puffs down from the parting well over the ears and reinforces the black hair, which is (Led low on the neck, braid ed, doubled over, not under, add tied with a bow of black silk or velvet ribbon, which should always be perfectly fresh. The hair dressed in this fashion is not only becom ing and girlish-looking, but also stays in place and looks neat after several hours of hard exercise. All sorts of ornaments are used In the hair nowadays and the bigger and more fanciful they are the better. Immense plain shell and amber combs are worn, not at the top of the coiffure, but at the bottom to hold the back puff in place. Pompadour and side combs are jewelled with mock and real gems, and Tsince wo man has become belligerent even in dress, she is wearing gold and silver daggers and swords thrust through her hair. Escap ing curls, at the nape of the neck, are pin ned up with a fancy brooch. For evening wear the aigrette still holds Its own as the favorite ornament. It is frequently combined with a spider bow of tulle or a fluffy rosette. Colored plumes and aig rettes are considered very bad form. Nat ural flowers are really the most appro priate ornaments for the hair in summer, even If they do fade quickly, and nothing looks so fascinating in very dark hair as a single crimson rose. Women with blonde hair generally make the mistake of wearing light-colored pins and ornaments. Those who have made a study of artistic hair dressing say that they should bv all meank wear ornaments of a dark color, bo us to accentuate the gold tint. White aigrettes should always be fastened in blonde hair with a few loops of balck vel vet ribbon, and in black hair with white ribbon . Contrasts in this matter are effec tive. Very dark hair can stand little curling and waving. The curling Irons have & tendency to make it look kinky, which is a state not to be desired, as every woman knows. The eagerness of women to be of real use at such a time as the present one in the country's history, says the New York Tribune, and their difficulty >n find ing anything that it Is possible for them to dp are almost pathetic. “I would give worlds to go to the front as a soldier,” exclaimed a high-spirited young woman, "and as the next best thing 1 joined an ‘auxiliary,’ and what do you think was the work they gave me to do. Making ridiculous little bags they called ‘‘housewives,’ to hold sewing things! Why, mother has often told me how, even when their hearts ached, they used to scrape lint and knit impossibly shaped stockings for lhe soldiers in her day. and the only difference now teems to be that we have learned that lint is unhealthy for wounds, and that woven stockings are more comfortable than knit ones. But as far as women are concerned they ere as unnecessary as ever. It takes war to show us what supernumeraries we really are in ahy really great movement. Our day can only come when brute force becomes an extinct factor in national dis putes, and all questions are settled by arbitration. If there is any talking to be done we can hold our own with any one. It was the United States Sanitary Commission In mother’s day. and it is the Red Cross now. that offers the only outlet for our energies. Pray Heaven that the innumerable societies that are being or- Kanixed all over the country may not have the training that developed the crude Iwginnings of ’6l into a blessing to the country! “•You may laugh at your housewife, my dear.’ said un old lady to me the other day when I made fun of the work we were doing, 'but thank God on your knees If It is all you are given to do!’ “ The latest oiwning for a woman In con nection with the war is a “mother" to a regiment, but as the incumbent of the po sition must be old. ugly, and able to stand any amount of fatigue, it is not likely that there will be many applicants for the post. The “mother" will wash. mend, nurse. If need be. and look after her hundreds of boys with as much individual attention as possible. It will easily be seen what a comfort such an addition to a regiment would be. and there will doubtless be num berless openings in this direction for pa triotic women. "1 wish 1 could help." said a small child, wistfully, as she listened to n discussion between her mother and some of her frauds about needs and supplies in the early sixties. The mother understood the childish longing, and that evening she rigged up for the delighted little maid a toy express wagon, with a white tent cov er. on which she printed the once fami oar letters—U. 8. S. C.—United States Sanitary t'.xnm c.rsl sent the child out tl»e next morning on an expedition to suevor maimed or suffering creatures. It wna wonderful, with her senses aroused to obaervattou, how many things the lit tle one found, and lhe good work ttpread among her pla.- mates, until the United States Sanitary Commission wag ons multiplied into a goodly number. All the children who. played this real piay phxiged them selves to rescue and nurse suftering life, from the tiny insects to mis used cats and dogs, and who knows whether It was not from just such small beginnings that the societies which pro tect our animals started in the first place? Somehow it Is the idea of the hour to take especial note o< children. Not only iuuv^vu, are their sayings chronicled, magazine art icles written about them and methods of correction discussed at great length, but fashion is allotting to them much more than their usual allowance of novelties in dress. The latest is the little girl’s sun bonnet, says the New York Herald, and it is a conservative assertion to make that every miniature woman of society will have when she goes away for the summer, at least three or four of these snugly away. A theory of hygiene Is behind these sun bonnets. The average child loses her hat or wears it on the back of her neck when playing out of doors in summer continu ally. She thinks very little about the sun, and does not mind its glare—not half so much as her mother would—but for all that (scientists end doctors now say) she Is injuring her eyes materially by this very exposure. Now, the sunbonnet cannot fall off. It is tied on tightly—“for keeps”—and only in the case of a very disobedient child or an accident will it be anywhere after a morn ing’s play than the precise spot it was placed on. Thus, whatever she may do, the child’s eyes are kept beautifully shad ed. And, besides this, the sunbonnet has a value from the point of view of economy. It washes excellently, and the youngster always has headgear that is spick and span. These facts have brought sunbonnets for children into fashion: Literally, hundreds of them will be worn this summer. They will be somewhat of the Kate Greenway style, and will make the small person look very picturesque and very much like her grandmother at the age of six years. They are to be made with many tucks, and as prettily as you please. A piece of narrow ribbon fastens each under the chin. The materials most popular are gingham, pique and duck, and they must match the little frocks they are intended to be worn with. The favorite colors will be pink, blue, white and dark blue. The chemise for summer wear, says the Philadelphia Times, is made with a very deep decollete and without sleeves. It is perhaps a trifle shorter than in forner years, and is made sufficiently full* around the bottom to form an underskirt. In this case the drawers are worn under the chem ise. The lower edge may be trimmed with a small flounce “en forme” of medium amplitude. If not fond of laces, one may adopt by way of trimming the ever popular flat plaits. These are applied in a series of three or five, ranged very much after the manner of an insertion just above the flounce. The chemise is made quite close-fitting over the bust, being so closely moulded to the figure as to preclude the possibility of any wrinkling or unevenness under the corset. The chemise must be perfectly plain in the back and made with a simple single seam. The drawers are made with unusual amplitude, and are very short. They are finished in a flounce or trimming harmon izing with the trimming of the chemise. In place of the old time band they are gathered with a fine draw string. Thus the amplitude of each leg of the drawers may be altered to suit individual taste. Many fashionable women, however, dispense en tirely with the draw string, and allow the garment to assume its full size, un restrained by even the suspicion of a gathering. As regards the small underskirt, it dif fers not a whit in form from the garment for winter wear. Quite the latest novelty in the way of summer lingerie is the “combination,” of batiste, in which two garments are com bined in one. There are many ways of forming the combination, such as chem ise and drawers or drawers and skirt. This is a matter to be decided by personal preference. The chemie’-drawers is eimply a corset cover to which the drawers have "been added. This garment has many attract ions for those who do much bicycle rid ing. • ’ Misa Reichemberg of the Comedie Fran caise is a great favorite, not only in Paris, but wherever her wit and her good acting are known. She Is a delightful woman, of course, but she has certain peculiarities which serve as a foil to her charms, the best known being her unrelenting dispo sition in making fun at her best friends’ expanse, her enthusiastic economy and her love for the good things of the table. Those who wish to remain on good terms with her know how to please her, and nearly every morning fish, poultry, superb fruit, etc., come to her cook, who at once rings the bell for her mistress—rather a topsy-turvy arrangement, but Miss Retch emberg does nothing like other people— and as soon as she hears the bell she trots down to the basement. There the two pick and choose, setting apart what is to be served on the table upstairs and what is to be sold to the man w'ho comes every' day from the central market to bargain with them and take away the goods that will not keep. One day recently the actress was partic ularly busy and could not answer the bell or go downstairs, not even when she heard that a superb sterlet had arrived from the shores of the Volga on a bed of ice, and hurriedly she called to the cook to take it herself to a fishmonger and get a stiff price for it. She pocketed a good round sum over the deal, but had for gotten all about the lish, when a friend of hers, a Russian Prince, being at lunch at her house, asked her suddenly: “How did you like the sterlet?” "Oh," said Reichemberg, "it was sim ply delicious and fresh in spite of its long journey, as fresh as if it had been caught an hour before.” "The gills were ns fed as your lovely lips, w’ere not they? 4 ’ “More so, I can tell you. for, you know. I am a gourmande. and always see about these things myself." "But is that all?" “AU! Pray, what do you mean?" “I mean.” said the prince, turning pur ple, "that the grand duke, who sent the sterlet to my house, with other things, wrote and asked me to brjng it myself to you. for he had put in each gill an emer ald earring, which. I believe, he had prom ised you. But I knew you always super intended these things in person, and I thought I would let you have a little'sur prise." Miss Relchemberg dropped her knife and fork and rushed down to the cook. But she never saw the beautiful emeralds. The fish merchant had forgotten to whom the sterlet had been sold, and the grand duke’s present is most likely somewhere in the hands of a dishonest chef. Every mother of a pretty girl, says the Atchison Globe, is a board of strategy. A woman never becomes so rich that she can resist the temptation to wear calico shirt waists. When the women pray “Lead us not in to temptation.” they mean dry goods stores. A woman never knows what it is to love until she has a daughter over 15 years old. When a widow begins to leave off mourn ing. the person whose opinion she fears worst is her mother-in-law. An Atchison man claims that his wife belongs to the Red Cross Society because she often get red with anger and is then cross for weeks. Farmers Break the Itaagy 'lonopoly. Il is claimed that for years buggy manufac turers nave secured exorbitant prices for their K-ods : ut recently, through the combined as sMance of th” farmers of lowa. Illinois and other states Sbaks. Kokbkcx & Co.. O s Chi cago. have got the price of open buggies down to fie.v; Top Buggies. s-2.7.’; Top Sutries. >13.75 an.l upwards, and they are shipping them in immense numbers d:rect to farmers in every state Tbev send an immense BuegX Catalogue free, postpaid, to any one who asks for it. This certainly is a big victory for the fdrmcr. but as* vere blow to th*? carriage manufacturers ami dealers. The Royal is the highest grade baking powder known. Actual tests show it goes one third further than any other brand. . POWDER Absolutely Pure royal bakino powoer eo., NEW YORK. ' With the coming of the shirt waists the uneasy look on a girl’s face, as if some thing might be coming off, has made its reappearance. Along about 9 o’clock every night the girls look up at the clock, remark that it is probably too late for any one to come, and take off their stiff shirt waist collars. The rudeness of young society men, says the New York and their independ ence of their hostess and her guests, is spoken of too often not to have some foun dation of truth. At social functions a woman is absolutely helpless without a man. She cannot dance unless she is asked. She cannot move from her seat without an escort, and the hostess cannot, with the best intentions; properly entertain her women guests without the aid of the men. And they are usually in the minor ity. Their sphere of amusement is so much wider than that of the women that they are not as dependent upon social functions; consequently the young man grows to feel his weight, and he abuses the hospitality offered. This is a frequent complaint. He accepts hie hostess’ hospi tality just so far as pleases him, and no further. He is pleased to be courteous to her guests If they please him, otherwise he ignores them. He ignores his hostess like wise if it pleases him. The wrathful tale told of the young man who was invited to the opera and appeared in his hostess’ box at the beginning of the evening, sind then left it to make calls upon other friends, and not to return until the end of the evening, is true, and stories come from other towns, not so large as New York, but having a strong social element, where young men forget to pay party and dinner calls altogether. There is one ower true tale of a wrathful maiden, and she was not an unattractive maiden, either, who at a large party given in her honor was found at the supper hour without an es cort. Every man had gone off with an other damsel and forgotten the one for whom the occasion was. But she dined in state in an apartment by herself with other left-over maidens, and they en joyed themselves thoroughly. And the men, it was said afterwards, when they heard of the matter, considered it a huge joke, which it was, in away. But they have better ways of doing things in other countries, or they have better manners where there is more ceremony. A stranger in Germany is introduced to every man in the room at affairs which are held in pri vate houses. Each man considers it his duty to ask for an introduction as a mat ter of courtesy to his hostess, A phlle-.ophic bachelor, says the New Orleans Picayune, lounging in his club, heard some young fellows expressing sur prise .that many women who please im mensely at first sight and for a short time are regarded as charming in the extreme, grow tiresome before long. The philoso pher was appealed to for an "opinion on the weighty subject and thus delivered himself: “Yes, it’s true that these brilliant, at tractive women seldom wear well. It has always seemed to me that in a short time they either feel well enough acquainted to cense trying to-be agreeable as at first or they have in reality talked themselves out. Perhaps they are vain and others do not see fit to pander to such evident self-love. Be that as it may, when the reaction comes the admirers and adorers of the first day or two will discover that the wit was not spontaneous, the grace ful manner natural or the Interest in their affairs genuine, and they drop the flash ing, brilliant meteor and look about for the steady glowing star that sheds its mild radiance on all about in a quiet, un obtrusive manner, yet with a beauty all its own that is wonderfully taking. “The woman who wears well is rarely a beauty. If she were, perhaps she would consider her personal perfections so great that she would deem it unnecessary to cultivate the graces of the heart and mind that prove so attractive to those about her. She is usually possessed of intelligence, which lights up her counte nance as no mere beauty could ever do, and a desire to please, which an unselfish disposition naturally helps her to accom plish. She keeps a sunny face turned to ward the world with her own troubles pushed far away out of sight, while she does her best to assuage those of others. She is always the same, yet never monot onous, as her originality is one of her chief charms. If she marries she will love her husband with all her heart and to him she will seem a treasure far above the brilliant but changeable beauties who take a man’s heart by storm.” The philosopher lounged out of the smoking room, and one of the young fel lows said: "I wonder why he never married?" “Wasted his affections on one of those who don't ‘wear well,’ I suppose,” said another. "I am looking,” says the New York Times woman, “to see a new club started, th.- 'Daughters of Sapphlra.’ There is only one thing needed to have one formed forthwith, and that is to fiave the men start a club, the ‘Sons of Ananias.’ And. really, one would be quite as appropriate as the other. I saw a squib the other day about the ghosts of Ananias and Sa&hira, which, taking a midnight walk, purchased a yellow journal and felt themselves out done by the false statements of war news to be found there. But they need not have waited for yellow journals or false war news. Am .1 only now becoming observant or is there an increased number of follow er of the Father of Lies? I know women who positively cannot tell the truth when It is to their advantage to do so. The tru ert thing George Eliot ever said was that the p. nu *y of un ruth is untruth.” "A society of the ‘Sons of Ananias* could well be started," said the man. thoughtfully, “an 1 I could make a good many proposals for membership. I have one business man in mind. He has the weakness many of us have of telling the same story twice and never twice alike. And that is not in minor details, but in the essential tacts. I have had him for get and within an hour tell a story in two absolutely different ways. I am never sure of anything he says. There is one thing that I think can be said about men that does not apply to women so much, and that is that men make stories out of whole cloth. Perhaps that is one reason why they make good after-dinner speak ers. ”1 know another man who Is a remarka ble romancer, though I must say for him that his stories, once developed, he sticks to. As an instance of this, I was with an other friend one day when we saw him coming in * decided to give him as big a yarn as peeUbie, each of us to bear out all the other’s stories. For one thing-, I told him about an experience in a canoe, when, with a rubber brought up from the sides tight around my throat and fast ened securely around my wrists, I had ca noed over dangerous falls, under water half the time, but always paddling, and finally coming to the surface not. a bit the worse for it. The son of Ananias listened without a word. But he didn’t miss a de tail, and the only thing he forgot was where he heard it, and the next time I saw him he related it to me almost word for word—better than I could have re peated it myself—as an experience of his own. e “Yes,” said the woman, "I think women are apt to merely cast a roseate color over things, though I have heard some elabo rate romances about lovers in w’hich I was certain there was much fiction. But the daughters of Sapphira I have meet seem to have a habit of believing the things they wish to believe; they tell them as they would like them to be, not as they are, and with perfect sincerity, as I be lieve most liars—pardon the word—do. I remember a relative we had visiting us at one time, a sweet woman, but with ab solutely no regard for the truth. We had an invalid in the family to whom her pres ence was a great annoyance, and we were anxious, when the time came for her visit to end, to have her go. But she was en joying herself and did not care to. So following me up stairs one day, she ask ed me confidentially what I thought she had better do. Anxious as I was for her to go, I could only say that she must do as she thought best. But imagine my amazement at hearing her remark before the entire family, myself included, that day and with an air of great satisfaction, that Alice—myself—thought she had better pro long her visit, and so she would. Did you ever happen to remark in any company of the prevalance of this class of people that every one in the room did not know at least one intimately. The girl of the moment, says the New York Herald, an athletic maid two short months ago, has changed with the times and become military. The men she goes with hardly knows her. Even her clothes, her skirts, her hats and her waists have the spirit of the army—or the navy—in them these days, and her walk is modeled upon marching, and her vocabulary of slang and topical expression has been revised until two sentences out of three hang upon mar tial terms. In fact, to be army-like is the fad of the moment, and the girl of the sets has taken up this new idea with immense enthusi asm. She carries it out surprisingly well, too. Very nearly everything she does has a military twist to it, and she has the cleverness to put just a little of her own personality into each movement or speech so that the effect is piquant, graceful and odd. Thus, with a bound the military girl has sprung into fashion. One of her ways is the temporary abolition of the kiss—so far as other girls are concerned. Meeting her dearest friend, she salutes in a true army way. She does not grab her or remark “You dear thing!” The arms of both girls are raised promptly to their hats, and then shoved out with a quick movement. Then they are dropped to their sides and stay there. The walk of the military girl is marked by a firm step forward, a rather longer step than usual, and the shoulders are held weil back, the head steadily up, with the chest is thrown well out. This new type of girl, when she turns, swings around cleanly on her heels, for all the world like a genuine army man. The new military conversation, or rather the host of military phrases, heard these days is exceedingly interesting. A girl re turns from some shopping expedition. Be fore the war was started she would have said very simply: “I’ll go up and tell moth er about it.” Now her phrase is: “I’ll go. and give the countersign to mother.” Or, telling a sister to say such and such to her father, she will say: “Report to head quarters.” “Advance into the other room,” is the proper way to put it now, and, instead of speaking of going up or down stairs, you should say, if you would be really in form nowadays, “I’m going aloft,” or “I’m go ing below.” Betaking one’s self to one’s downy couch is expressed by the words, “I’m going to turn in,” and on the street, when two, three or four girls are walking together, there are often to be heard these words of command: “Right about face!” and ’’forward, march!” Such are a few of the military expres sions of the hour amonjr girls—those that nre, ]>erhaps, the most common. There are scores of others, and with her visits to the camps near New York and her con stant study of war mutters this military vocabulary of girldom is being added to at a rapid rate weekly. The girl who has naval associations adds to these a bunch of terms of the sea and the battleships that give her conversation even more pic turesqueness and novelty. Yet walk and talk a la militaire are, af ter all, but two sides of the new military girl. All her costume this summer will have a flavor of the army and the navy. The shops are Rolling now, for the par ticular benefit of this girt, what is known as "aArrny and navy” cloth. It is aiight er shade of blue than has hitherto been the fashion—a thin material much like a serge and supposed to be just the color of the army and navy uniforms. This promises to be the dress material of drees materials this summer, and is already much sought after. caps and army service hats are the bead gear that is held in greater af fection than any other, and a girl who really enters into the spirit of the day and the hour wears white cord about her neck with the accompanying whistle. This is considered a very smart and effective final touch. There are army and navy umbrellas for these military girls as well. These um brellas have handles made in precise imi tation of a small sword handle. An even smarter thing is to have an umbrella han dle of a real sword. Not many girls are as fortunate as that, however. My doctor says that it Isn’t what we do during the day, but the way we sleep nt night, that makes us round shouldered, a New York Herald reporter heard a tail, stunning looking girl say to her compan ion, as they rested after the dumbbell drill at the gymnasium. “You know how dread fully I stooped when It left school a year ago,” she went on. “I just thought I would go crazy with the home folks flaying, Maud, dear, sit up straight!’ and Jack said I looked about as frisky as grandpa Burke, who is nearly a hundred. I went to my doctor one day and I just sat down in his great big chair and cried like a baby. I looked a fright and I knew it. but I felt sure they would put me into a plaster cast or something equally as awful. He didn’t though, but just asked the queerest lot of questions alx>ut how 1 slept. “How you-slept?” exclaimed the slender girl, showing a deal of interest. / “Yes. he wanted to know If I slept on a downy bed and with a big pillow under my head. Os course I did, and when I told him so he nodded his head and said he knew it. Then he went on to say that 1 would lie with my arms up over my head, or else, when on my side, they would be in front of me. with the shoulders thrown forward, that I often would curve myself up in a CASTOR IA For Infants and Children. The Kind You Have Always Bought Bears the XTr y/ Signature of WHAT DOCTORS SAY About Pe-ru-na For the Ills ol Women. Pe-ru-na is a favorite with doctors for the treatment of all cases of pelvic ca- ._ tarrh, known as female disease. The fol lowing are' samples of letters from doc tors touching these cases: J W. T. Meffiord, M. D., 1418 East Sev- 1 enteenth street, Kansas City,. Mo., writes; | “I have used all of your remedies and ■* find them very reliable. Pe-ru-na is In valuable in all cases of menopause, or \ change of life, I have used it in hundreds of cases and it has never failed me. Man- « | a-lin is the great rectifier of indigesiioni and constipation. 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This book was written by Dr. Hartman, who has given these subjects long and careful attention. Address Dr. Hartman, Colum bus, Ohio. x. little roll and go to sleep. These were the common mistakes, he said, which most persons made in sleeping.” “Well, how on earth are we to sleep,and on what sort of beds,” her companion ask ed, with very wide open eyes. “On a hard bed, the narrower the better. He said to lie on my left side and put my arm behind me, which naturally would throw the shoulders back. I did it, and just see how straight I am!” she added, stand ing up and showing her superb neck and shoulders. “It wasn’t so very hard, either,” she continued, “but I was determined to mas ter the art of Bleeping correctly, and I have.” This was all I heard of their interesting chat, but it gave me so great a curiosity to learn more about the theory that I straight for the office of a physician wlioso® opinion seems very near being the law in this country to-day. s/'j? “It is quite true,” he said, “half the fl world is in total ignorance of the laws gov- ®||| erning healthful sleep. People lie on beds fl that are soft and pile so many covers over them that the body gains no ventilation whatever. High pillows throw the head fl forward and interfere with healthful J breathing, while all sorts of positions are taken with only regard to getting easy. “A hard bed makes the flesh firm. I have known patients to apparently reduce their weight twenty or thirty pounds af ter sleeping so for several months, but on being weighed they would find that na flesh had been lost; it had simply harden ed and lost its flabbiness. “■Sleeping on the back is not healthful, it results in a gravitation of blood to the spinal cord and the lower part of the brain. Persons who dream much and have the nightmare usually sleep this way, an-1 besides, it throws the palate back in a ix>sition as to cause mouth breathing and its accompanying snore. A ‘ deal of throat trouble is caused by this, as the air reaches the lungs without being puri fied and moistened by passing through the nose. “Lying on the left Bide, with the arnt thrown behind, is the best position botli'f for giving a fine figure and in promoting health. All animals sleep on the chest, as nearly as possible, with the back up, and they know pretty well what is the right thing to do. It will be found that in taking the position I have just advised the throwing the arm behind one brings the body nearly over on the chest. “As for sleeping on high pillows,” the j doctor continued, “it is the easiest thing ,-J| in the world to grow dependent upon fl them, as they favor cerebral anaemia, w’hich induces sleep, but If one wishes to have a finely expanded chest she must fl > dispense with even the smallest pillow. . “A soft tied is enervating; it emluacesJg| .. ‘ the body an I makes its tissues flabbyfltA/| which, together with heavy covering, inflflfl terferes with the circulation and prevents fl the body from throwing off impurities. ■ One should have the air temperate and 1 the room so ventilated as to dispense with 1 any but light covering. ; “It Is not‘generally known, but to sleep | on the back makes one very liable to take | cold, which is easily understood, as tho chest and throat are exposed, and I have found the majority of persons with weak lungs and sensitive’throats to be addicted! to this position in sleeping.” A newly married young Washington man, says the Star of that city, took his wife to church last Sunday. The sermon was just about well under way when ho noticed the little woman at his side start. i Then she turned red, looked around ner- | vously, and hesitating for half a minute, rose hurriedly from her seat and left the church. The young husband, feeling cer tain that his wife was ill, wanted to fol low her out, but he is a bashful man, and the thought of the long center aisle that he would have to traverse in the face of the whole congregation kept him rooted to his eeat. He was pretty glad when the services were over, however, and he mado his way almost at a lope for his 1 itCrT*x<n -yak age. He found his wife cheerfully busying herself about the kitchen. “Weren’t you ill?” he inquired, breath lessly. “Why, dearie, me, you know I am never ill,” was her reply. “Well, why then, did you leave the pcW so suddenly?” “I suddenly recollected. Jack, that I for- j got to put the chicken pot pie on the back of the range before we left the houseyLfl Would my li.-tening to a good s< rmon . < r:.p. ri-it'-i you for a charred dinner?” “Not much it wouldn’t?” Baid Jack, who fl'/./x is as human as they make them. fl|fl Public Clock*. ,i Few great cities of America are ado o: . . y ,d. d with public clocks of ■i> i *■■■/.■■ .c J .<> prominent location as to fl* ,*’* indi ni'- the i .me over wide metropolitan « • ;>i: :’ . i; it It high time t > check ki-j-j|g y- I ■ cn I :.,.e) r■ • rim.am* ni.tn.b -. j ■ i ■ ■ ' o." :ii> ■ ■ affl •' H t'dQli edi--.-- this as It does dyspepsia. rhcurnWS t..-m co> st d ation, biliousness and nerv- jHBH ousness.—ad. fIHH Over Fifty Years Mr*. Wii:*>Ws Soothing Syrup has beta ifi ' used f r inn teething. It soothes th? '■ mud. sorter.s the gums, allays all pair flv.'?;S carets iv.nd colic, an 1 is tnr best f-.r D.ari.cz.u. 1 wen tv-five aents a ix»/fl tto —ad. .ijpigj Abbott - r.a li Corn Pair-- et-rv .■ . • u|. s :?!.-• 3 i , : :cu . .re. < fl,. t ,’J *32s druggists.—ad. -Y'i