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2C ♦ WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 6, 2006 Pinot Noirs by regions When it comes to grapes, don’t forget terroir. That’s the combination of soil, climate, and specific environment within a vineyard. Combine that with varying philosophies and winemak ing methods and you will have vast differences from brand to brand, even though the label claims the same varietal. If you don’t know what Pinot Noir tastes like, I can’t tell you. It’s not that I don’t know, it’s that it depends so much on where it came from and who made it. I n Burgundy, there are far too many vintners to go into specifics. In gen eral, how ever, some of the major vil lages and Hfc.' Brian Goodall The Wine Guy Morris News Service plots of the Cote de Nuits include Gevrey-Chambertin, Chambolle-Musigny, and Romanee-Conti. Wines made in these locales will vary from extraordinari ly expensive to more modest ly priced, depending on the individual producer. They tend to be relatively full-bod ied, low in tannin, and carry a combination of finesse and enough substance to stand up to hearty foods. Last Thanksgiving, I served a well aged Chezeaux Chambolle-Musigny Charmes ($49.99) as part of our holiday dinner and my guests were most apprecia tive. The wine was elegant and complex, adding its own personality to the meal with out overwhelming either the ham or the turkey. From the Cote de Beaune, some of the more recogniz able names include Puligny- Montrachet, Chassagne- Montrachet, Savigny-les- Beaune, Pommard, and Meursault. These tend to be lighter in color, lighter on the palate, but still velvety smooth, terrific wines that command high prices from top producers. In the US, many of the most Burgundy like Pinot Noirs come from the state of Oregon. King Estate ($20.99) is widely, available and quite enjoyable with food. You’ll find notes of cherry, vanilla, moderate oak, and low tan nins in this friendly, but per haps overpriced Pinot from the Willamette Valley. Elk Cove ($21.99) is another mid-priced Oregon selection more reminiscent of a Cote de Beaune wine. Domaine Drouhin ($38.99) is an outstanding Pinot from this region, but you’ll have to taste it for yourself to see how it compares to Burgundy at this price point. An unusual entry into this market, but perhaps the fast est rising star in Pinot Noir is the small island nation of New Zealand. Known more for it’s crisp Sauvignon Blanc, nonetheless the Pinots being produced here are becoming noteworthy. Kim Crawford ($14.99) is consistently good and quite recognizable as Pinot Noir, blending a fruit forward approach with mild oak, showing strawberry, cherry, raspberry and smooth tan nins. Cloudy Bay Pinot Noir ($28.99) is a top performing, stylish wine that is full bod ied, balanced, and displays complexity with herbal notes under dark, plummy fruit. Dyed in the Wool Pinot Noir ($14.99) is more terroir driven with an almost tropi cal acidity and herbaceous overtones along with typical red fruit. I paired it with great success with grilled pork chops and caramelized sweet potatoes. I’ll save California for next week. In the meantime, enjoy your task of tasting as many of these wines as you can. To share your own Pinot Noir tastes, to ask a question, or just to talk wine, write me at goodell wineguy @ sbcglobal. net. Until next time, happy pours. From sea to shining sea How to make 400 quarts of South Carolina hash So, you think you know barbeque? Well, the recipe for hash is so secret that we don’t even know what’s in it. What is hash? Barbeque hash is a delica cy unique to South Carolina. There are as many varia tions as there are cooks. After much begging, we managed to get a partial recipe from the famous Highway 34 Volunteer Fire and Rescue Squad located in Greenwood, S.C. Their hash is, in fact, so well known, that the Columbia Museum filmed a documentary of the process and it is housed and avail able for public view at the Museum. Luckily for us, we know a member of the Hwy. 34 VF&R! We called, and this is what he told us: Using (an undisclosed amount, but A LOT of) pork and beef, begin cooking (boiling) at noon, constantly skimming the fat and bone. At 2 p.m., shred at least 10 pounds of onions and add to the mixture. Continue skimming. At 7 p.m., add at least 20 pounds of shredded potatoes. Continue skimming. At 3 a.m., add a couple of pounds of butter and a couple of pounds of marga rine, salt and pep- \ jPhI Tish Mims Columnist per, two large containers of Lowiy’s Seasoning Salt, three gallons of vinegar, 24 cans of Carnation evaporat ed milk, five large bottles of red barbeque sauce (not the mustard-based kind) and five large bottles of mus tard. Continue stirring. It’s done at 5 a.m. Makes 400 quarts. Recipes for hash in smaller quantities are avail able on the internet, but we advise you to adjust the recipe to use these ingredi ents. Fried black-eyed peas Cook dried black-eyed peas according to package instructions. Rinse and drain well. Spread out on paper towels to dry. Heat oil in a deep skillet to approxi mately 350 degrees. Fry the Want catfish? Try Creekside If you spot me at a res taurant with a white haired gentleman, that’s my Uncle Wally, who lived most of his life in the Chicago area and now lives in Perry. He enjoys eating out, and we spag I make the rounds in Perry, Warner Robins and in between. Last Saturday we went to Creekside Catfish, which is Charlotte Perkins Lifestyle Editor a great place to take any person of the Yankee per suasion, not just for the food, but also because it’s just about as southern as southern gets. Creekside burned down a couple of years ago but has been built back. It’s in a pecan orchard with a well worn dirt parking area and a fruit stand out front. Everybody calls you “honey,” “sweetie,” “baby” and “darlin” from the moment you walk in, and there’s a black and white signed photo of Herman Talmadge on one wall. The food’s so good that the place is packed, with AHm&L - t f .. * ■•MI »>' r 7 " £ . <*✓ f feUf : K jMr - *"l /mmMm Hr MW . t "F i mm The pride of South Carolina. peas until they stop bub bling, or about IV2 minutes. Place on paper towels so that oil will drain off. Season to taste with salt. Use as a garnish on salad. South Carolina mus- tard barbecue sauce 1 cup cider vin- egar 6 tablespoons Dijon mustard 2 tablespoons maple syrup or honey 4 teaspoons | Worcestershire 1 sauce 1 teaspoon hot sauce 1 cup vegetable oil 2 teaspoon salt Ground black pepper Mix all ingredients, includ ing pepper to taste, in medi um bowl. Charleston Crab Cakes 1 pound lump crab meat 1 large egg 3 tablespoons light half the seats taken by “regulars.” Waitress Robin Joiner says that some people even sit at the same table every Saturday night, and some of them are bound for the Powersville Opry House after dinner. About the food: Catfish is the specialty, but you can get mullet, too, and steaks or burgers. The catfish we had was fried by one of those kitchen geniuses who knows how to get things crisp but not greasy. You can get it with bones or without bones. The hushpuppies were old fashioned with a hint of onion. You get coleslaw and bread-and-butter pickles as soon as you sit down, and they actually leave a pitcher of tea on the table. They don’t list desserts on the menu, but appar ently everybody knows that there’s pie if you want a slice. The coffee is good. Dot Andrews, who has been running the place for 20 years, spends her week days catering all over mid dle Georgia, so Creekside is only open Friday and Saturday nights. Hours are from 4 to 9 p.m. If you’re taking a crowd and want to be sure of seat ing, or if you want to know FOOD mayonnaise 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard juice of one lemon 3 tablespoons fresh parsley, JNHL ' * minced 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper 1/4 teaspoon salt 1 dash hot pepper sauce 1/2 cup breadcrumbs Pick over crabmeat, removing any cartilage or about the catering service, call 825-0176. Casseroles coming Linda Christie reports See PERKINS, 4C WICKER SHOfr Bam-6pm Tues. - Sat. • Closed Sun. & Mon. FRESH GRADE A SPLIT ONLY Cmg a r NO boning at riyCl THIS PRICE Breast n2B lb. 100% Pure Fresh Regular Ground Beef ($19 88 GROUND I mm LB. FRESH 1207 Sunset Ave. • Perry Plaza • Perry, GA 31069 478-987-5711 __ shell. Whisk together egg, mayonnaise, Dijon mustard, lemon juice, parsley, cay enne pepper, salt, and hot pepper sauce. Gently fold into crab, being careful not to break up the meat too much. Gently stir in bread crumbs. Form crab cakes into eight patties. Flatten gently, if necessary. Bake L for 15 minutes in a 375 degree oven, or if you prefer, melt one table spoon butter and two tablespoons vegetable oil in a large skillet and fry until golden brown. Low Country Boil 2 boxes crab boil (in bag) 2 large onions, quar tered * 8 oz. of salt 1 clove garlic 1 cup black pepper Potatoes, whole* 1/2 cup red pepper Smoked sausages (cut in sm. cubes)* 4 oz. Tabasco sauce Corn on the cob* •PLUMS •SHELLED PEAS 3801 HWY 41 N. Byron, GA 31008 478-953-3820 fr I We Custom Cut Black Angus Rib Eye Steaks To Order HOUSTON DAILY JOURNAL South Carolina Tourism Board 3 lemons, quartered 30 to 40 ibs. live craw fish Fill 60 quart pot half full of water. Add all ingredients except crawfish. Bring to a boil. Cook until potatoes are almost ready. Add crawfish. Return to boil and cook for 3 minutes. Makes 15 to 20 servings. •Amounts depend upon number to be served and personal preference. South Carolinian Tish Mims lives in Georgia now. She the Downtown Manager for the Perry Downtown Development Authority. Creat Deals Free AD for items under SSO Call 987-1823 for details •SHELLED N BUTTER BEANS •SEASONAL VEGETABLES Owners: Ourl Sasnett lo Sasnett CURTIS PACKING CO. SMOKED TENDERIZED 7 TO 10 LB. AVG. Picnics -i-VKt-’W SLICED FREE 88 LB Country Fresh Pork Quarter PORK LOINS S 2S 00036662 171®“