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Passion Food
My friend Frank the Priest felt that, next to
sex, sharing food was likely to be the most
intimate connection we could have with other
human beings.
Well, Father Frank has gone on to become
Bishop Frank. And I, taking his view to heart,
have gone on to intimacy with hundreds,
maybe thousands of men and women.
At table, not se coucher, you understand.
As a restaurant owner (Patrick's back in
’83) and later as a critic (Southline) I've used
the excuse of work to eat myself silly all over
Atlanta. And Boston, New York, D.C., San
Francisco, Dallas, New Orleans, Key West,
Miami, Savannah and points between.
Given the knowledge gained in that
process, I'd modify Frank's findings just a bit:
Like sex, dinning that lacks intimacy or
passion is no fun at all. I mean the finest
pate of golden newt’s eye, brought to the table
atop a bed of organically grown lamb's
lettuce, in a recherche, rococco room
designed by FiFi LaFouche can be a bummer
on par with finally bedding that golden
hunk(ette) that one has long admired and
finding no passion in the process. Boring.
By my count there are 15 places to sate
one's hunger in L5P proper. Add eight more
if you include Inman Park and Candler Patk
in the survey. None of the places resembles
ultimate fantasy in the style of the Ritz, or
Hedgerose Heights or 103 West What the 23
places in and around L5P invariably do offer -
too otten missing m Buckhead, the Virgin
Highlands, and the 'burbs - is food designed
and served with passion.
(For instance: About a year ago I met a
man on the sidewalks of L5P. We agreed to
go for ice cream. I opted for Jake's. He
suggested Zesto's. Swallowing my critical
pride, I agreed [actually, I adore nut brown
crowns, but I'm embarrassed to admit it.]
Well it was hot. And our Zesto's started
melting. And we ran out of napkins. So we
just had to lick the mess off each other's
fingers. And that brought up certain, shall we
"We had to lick the
mess off each other's
fingers. And that
brought up certain, shall
we say, feelings."
say, feelings. And... Well, you get the
picture.)
It's an eclectic passion, mind you. A
grilled cheese at the pharmacy may be a bit
bland for some tastes, while a steamy wot at
Addis may redefine incendiary for others.
Tofu at Eat Your Veggies or Cook's Kitchen
may be your passion. Or you may (as a friend
does) refer to it as toejam. Tapatio's mid
eastern tilt on traditional Mexican dishes puts
my salivary glands in overdrive, others
eschew the inauthenticity. The atmosphere at
Deacon Burton's or Roger’s is hardly up
scale, but the tastes are right-on down home.
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523-3937
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Eateries in L5P are comfortable with a
level of individuality that would drive a
Bennigan's or a Peasant to corporate
distraction. The simple honesty of both
food and service - good or bad - at most L5P
restaurants would be anathema to the profit
driven owners of more pretentious
beaneries.
Passion, intimacy, individuality and
honesty. Father Frank was right. Mix them
with food and the results are a lot like good
sex.
Yum.
-Gary Kaupman
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The Little 5 Points section
covers the news, events and
people of this community,
gay or straight-always
different, always special
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