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SOUTHERN VOICE • DECEMBER 29/1994 «OUT by GARY KAUPMAN When you choose Kenny Rogers Roasters your heart’s in the right place. The holidays are a time for memo ries, right? The Taste Sheriff and I (starved for protein and craving the comfort of a quiet corner table in a womb-like environment) got an unex pected side of nostalgia when we supped at the HIGHLAND TAP (1026 N. Highland Ave., 875-3673). The Tap, located in the basement at the corner of Virginia and North High land, occupies the granite and brick grotto-like space formerly habited by the Texas Drilling Company—the bar that was the predecessor to The Eagle— and before that by a blues/jazz club called (I believe) the Uptown Cafe. The T.S., who moved to Atlanta in the mid-'80s and knows about leather only as it applies to shoes, was vaguely familiar with Texas, but he didn't know that before the bar moved into the cave where it became legend, it was located in the upstairs space that is now Chow. "A gay bar in a storefront at the queen of all Intown commerce comers?" gasped the Sheriff. "How did that hap pen?" It seems that the folks who took over the then disheveled buildings at the cor ner of Va. and Hi. had previously lived in San Francisco. They set out to recre ate a commercial area that resembled those of that fine city. And a gay bar, one with windows that faced the street, was a requisite part of their plan for reviv ing the area. My memories of the bar in its upstairs incarnation are hazy, but I do remember dancing my fanny off to Stevie Wonder on more than one late night. Texas moved downstairs when Theda's (a fairly trendoid eatery owned by two lesbians named Katherine and Lou and named for Lou's mom) moved in upstairs. The food was fab and the atmosphere relaxed. And oh, the scene at brunch. The women who run the Fly ing Biscuit may have learned the me chanics of their trade at Partner's and Indigo, but the institution they've cre ated has a spiritual link to Theda's. But K&L decided that being business partners was having a deleterious effect on their relationship and sold the place to a man who was not able to maintain the energy. Chow's remodeling and ul trasuccessful run came on the heels of his failure. In the meantime, the build ings got new owners, the rents went up, yupscale shops moved in, and the High land Tap's brand of beef replaced Texas'. All this came back in a big flash when our waiter (the epitome of a wise >• Continued on page 38 Kenny Rogers Roasters is proud to have been selected a member of Heart Smart Restaurants International®. Before any item earns the Heart Smart™ seal, it must meet these guidelines: 30% or less calories from fat; 10% or less calories from saturated fat; 150mg or less cholesterol; 1100mg or sodium. Imagine that. The incomparable taste of Kenny Rogers Roasters is not only delicious, it’s Heart Smart™. No wonder so many people love it. 6400 ROSWELL ROAD SANDY SPRINGS • 252-9490 2916 N. DRCIID HILLS ROAD TOCO HILLS • 315-8555 Best New Restaurant/1994 Taste of Atlanta Eat In Hake Out‘Cater Parties -THE- MELTING A Fondue Restaurant Reservations requested 351-1811 • 857 Collier Road (1 mile nest of Piedmont Hospital) ' i IlStlilliiltlllli; A Full Service Caterer ' : : : ■ . . ersonalize ervices 'ccasions >♦ innc w punches inners p—i , : : ; V Open New Year’s Eve/New Year’s Day Pasta • Vino • Simpaticol SAN GENNARO The Italian Feast • 636-9447 • Banquet Facilities ArailuMe • Often 7 Sites • 2196 Cheshire Bridge Rd.