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HsEMSfIMt
Summer Qirls Coffie
to Sou;!? ii?
3 t y* e *
Suits tl?e (Ji?iforfri
of tf?e Soldiery.
TIfK Nnmm»r glrla «ra '•otnlng town!
•-tbit of emirs* m»*«ni to th* City
of Now fork "Homo In r*ga. wm»
In tuff*" or rsfhar tbslr linen la ba<llv
rmrt-loi Tfcalr whit* tooth gleam ani
fbolr akin la brown Homo tkara are In silk
and rajah Never a wrtnfcla and n«rv*r a
rrawao Hit th.- m- tht r»al«* f»‘-««d fail
ores Not even thalr no—m ara Minbomod
but ho war* '«f th«* frown Hollar wrlnklaa
In four tlnan Ilian a hoiplalt between foot
•ye*
Jnat ko''k and woo! I«*a nnlv mid Angwet
bot fha Hummer glrla ara rumlag to tow »
from Vawporl. H'mthfi mpt . and f»«v»*a
Bn r H arbor Look for the flrl wtth
wrlnklaa h> bar linen. hut amUa* on har
faro, for aba’a tha Horn mar irlrl wbi
will ba tha Autumn bride lat bar la
dH.fbta<l flotb hi* •">!>* a "'l **• P« r »"
•spend. and Batajr flrrrwnfaee. you may ba
•ns*. atarta In dlrartiy to spend
Now llatan Whan August lw alataon
daya old thaw tha tlm* baa noma to divide
tha F**tnn>*r girls Into two rlaaaa*. In
nna claaa belonga tha girl wh*ae finery la
•till fraab Nhe *m on# of tha mural
bloaaoma (common natna wall flowara *) of
the Hum twar Even her dancing frock*
nawd no cloanltig round Iho horn No ’’!x»
bonfrln" march for har thla Tall! Even her
twonla suite arc atlll Immaculate In none
of tha limtrriar < i games haa wha boan at ran
sous C'paraptratloa” would ba vulgar» j but
•II three iratuHa are tboao that go to maka
up lb* Mg game of loro, for wltoraa tha
•Irl who .1 |) . I them all gaily. Cupid
0k:
Mk«nl lier \h< very day sh# com* »liw he
was Hiding •«« h* hotel register select
1»t« the .tr*Ki!t» petaous* fur th# SrSfe-o'S
So when she i«tf b m • «IM
til tig «lu| he »fe«i • (oiJra irre« la tuU
bar
Rummer gtris always beftM to talk about
I'd f«!l iuUi In Augu*t This Is a long
fMibililitJ rair Tlw year they are all
earned i hai<iH la atylo. io lb#) road.
•re groat They'** Man tbo irv suite
Niijr «*• jraper la drawing and la related
loo* ri|*llona They are oager now t*» ees
ilnnm la tbo cloth t'enalty before tbo
lot of •*pte»ut*or tbo droMßttkff* a*4
mtlnra boot tbfir order* for now Kail nr to
Whenever pv **ll t customer# <\-im to
town bet tsten. * to Bos, If tha }o*rx«#y la
oat of quo*!ion. tbo eul** oa tbl* page art
picture# of suits ora up rat from olia and
a was 4*o*4. from oauwti soe* oa lbo
modata. and Just out of tho tioiee that
rroaard tho sea* from Pari* Please don't
think i may bo Clibfng ; and. anyway, aren't
they »wei«t | Hut. nevertheless, tha Hum
mer glrla ara coming to town Hat ay
Brown furs, who will In* married In o«*tob#r,
waa ranlly h*re Inat week. Hha wna a
flower girl when C bollle and I wore mar
ried ao, naturally, we are much interested
In her purchs-es All the glrla ara kaen
to gat right to work at thalr trousseau
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buying. Tha failures (th# mural Mnaantndl
bar# come to town to hup tbo gayoat and
tho latest for a doapomto off or t tn tho laat
lap of tbo season tllrla of tbta sort always
dapond 100 much upon rtothoa Tbojr arw
even kevod up to tho paVnt where they
trill *ot Into n sheath with an unfltlml all!.
First thing tho Rnmroet girl will ash.
•What aro tho now wlorir "Oatawsba.
wistaria. eggplant and donkey gray.'' la
tho anawor- Aa uaual, tho majority of th*
saw col ora havs edible namoa They al
«ara obit la tho French rbofa f>»r tho ohrla
tonlng.
And tho awoot tummor flrl. how she
la tig ha and dimple# whon *h# #*o* «*!•# of
tho now Fall oulta from I’arb! »U tho
•ulta aho tltroa beet aro military In rharac
tor Tab# tho aolt of a soft but bright,
•bv l.luo broadcloth ttgure A » *++ tho
big battens Kacb haa a ssppUUt It tho
centre Many of tho hot lona on tht no*
Kail oulta aro rorp valuable dome a o aet
with or nil prattoai etaoe* Tho Import#*#
fairly loro out Iholr hair when tbop hoard
that thee* but loro had to come In tinder
tbo bead of Jcoolry Whon mother aud tho
glrla com* bom# from l*arta tbolr are suits
In tho truaba aro. however, bctteulesa
•Buttons bfttona oho ha* tbo battona'
t« tho latrat game at th* customs ouoo
Mother haa tbo buttons. bat al# ta tbo
aiaa wao Jam any whotel Rums of tbo
roai buttoaa aro ronllp muaaol aao.ia I
eow thorn oa a now suit of erf plant mlor
Hat piooar excuse a o, wo mnat lurry barb
te the blue eutt Hut button* a** swfully
raa< (nat'og Ho bad to atop vid dlaouaa
thorn a hit Tbat'a tbo only e<o«t*b!a way
to tail about tbo stylo* aeqoenc*. aa I
toll Chatty, to a aulaanco Huttons aro
roaliy «l groat importance, mu b -tbo tbo
purotuattoa morba ta a poem, or, aa Cholij
• **a. In your groat aunt's *llt
t>n tbta but* autt tbo batten# aro miu
tary Than Just see tho alt oa th,s cmatrai
i «i ,\iira« velvet ribbon la »w'.ag to
.•j'oyy.o.- o ■•/••-Jw/r tmxvji.- •
a /f/Yr/r Uau/FJr/iT3B*.
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A A -1 i’. j (.on Suit if Dright Blue Broadcloth. Revert of Net C*or
er i mb'older rd \V ttfe Orchid* laid <\er Rever* of Clcth. I acing of S.lk
Vl>er« skirl Is l urnrd Ha. k Showmg Filled in Slit.
B A Black Walking Suit With ( ocular Skirt. Wa;sUoal. Rever* and Robespierre
Cottar of Bla« k and While Sloped Silk.
O A Severely [Main Suit Showing New l oenPicify in Turning Back the Ta’b
of the Coil
D A Hark Blue Suit I .argr Rever* of Pale Blue Snhn Sh ' wing Embroidered
Cockatoo* Skirt Ha* Narrow P’ait* at the Side and a Long l ine of But
ton* It I* of Comfortable W alking l en*th The Direetoire Rrdingote la Slashed
at thw Side*. W'here It Fatt* m Deep Point*.
tha cloth tuat a* hrsM 1* a a*’ Her’a
uniform, aa one »m« It In old French pic
(urea. Where the eklrt fold* back the
facing la of armure *Pk Two little plait*
glra a scant hit of fulnea* to 'he «Wlrt Ju*t
below the a slat. The long tails of the coat
haie narrow straps and buttons
ala., applied In a aoldlerly way The *ight
aleevea sgiin have buttons, straps and a
narrow lace frill from the elbow down, and
daintily circling the wrt*t Tha revara on
Sensible W*ys to Avo c d unmer Headaches.
THRRK aro women who com plain that
thev are never well In hot weather;
they feet out of sorts. bar* severe
headaches. and aro eoatlyr upaot and they
blame the woo (her They oap they always
auffer from bummer headaches,' hut th< y
do not oeeui to roaltxe that It la not Hum
ntor but tbolr own ttupldlty that to of tbo
bottom of It all
Thor* gr* four main canoe* of litres* In
hot weather Tho Unit la diet Foods spoil
mart easily in laiuawr, and people are very
liable to mild attacks of food poisoning
from eating moat or dab that la not quite
fresh
Htcb headache may result from even one
mouthful of tainted moat or n«h. agd afot
rl|*o or under ripe fruit to tho caua* of a
ftoKl deal of Illness at tbl* tlm* of year
Housewives aro etrtngoly Ignorant, or
atraufely tudtfferont. to the risk of fo**l
Outt* ml nation to hot *eathe It to false
economy t use moat or flab, or food of
any ktnd that la at all aueplehva
frmbv.lt should eat less meat In Hum
mer. and rbooae instead gaad fruit, salad*
aid and choooo boch foods a* porb.
booty puddings aud fal moat of any kind
aro Uabi* io cause headache If takeu In
any quantity at this ooaa«»n. Why? Be
rn use It wore dtfflcalt for tho ayatotn
to got rm of oaroao of food whoa tt a
sot required for p .rjv'oo* of body boat and
kMM *u>*a k « •*> W-.Um rnmmm ..«•»!«»«
!ht« ,utt T-if... *>Mow ar
il f l»i. ,nft hill, clnth. BH‘t Ihw "« ,f, P
(hanging , hit - r> ,r, nrt on whir.
irfinM' h orrhlcto In »h«'tr« of P>»* *” 4
mnhotfan? trt .m I.l—rr<l. I'll, *Mrt
th, hU'„, nr.fl thla 1* ona of tha
m<»t arvarr ~f th, dlrt.-tolr* walhlnj anlta.
Von ram t >.* t tall* <( Ihr -oat *bfl
yvu dlrrrt.y far, tb, ararar Hut Retay
Rroanf.i , look* f.nr In It. sha -a -lltaa
and trim, aud a> atmight aa a rotnorl.
reduce the amount of butcher's meat and
"heating foods’*
Tn* M*ond irroat canto of headache* at
thla time ta fatigue Wo do not reat and
sleep aa much aa in Winter Wo aft up
In.e and cet up earlier In tho morning Wo
do t• v* ranch, even when wo are on a tract
i , because we try to jr-t Juat about th-ee
tlu -a what w* should Into the twenty four
bourn.
t«» ** hoeoino fsgfod and tired snd bead
schy, and we blame the Rammer. Wo play
Inn a In bitting aunahlne. wttll the Idea
that wo should got aa 4i>uch eierclao as
y-'t'.M# Of coarse, w# have to pay Th#
m a rood la not that to many women hare
headaches la Hum nor. but that to many
escape the attacks f auaatroko Uioy oftoo
deserve
M t headache la gho direct conooquooco
of n »t piwtectag tbo head. nock, and upper
part f e * ■v* fr •» the anna rays A
broad brimmed hat and a parasol are eooea
tla for (he woman who baa to go out la
strong oua* in.* however fro* from vanity
ah* mi r he.
W oho ••?**! the heat" should mabo
a point v»f lying down tn a dark room fdr
thirty of firtjr minutes ta th* middle of
the day b'J the wv: an who gets nine
bourn sleep Rummer and Winter will be
tbo healthier aa I bettor looking for It
A* Rummer headache la oomettmea due to
«*• >t«kL It la a
UK? of fye
/T\ad ip Paris.
pobespierre dollars ai^d
-<5a990i7-Ball Bopnets.
DopK e y-Ci ra y
a
/I\u55U
5 l ? eII S for
Buttops.
rhin up. ahonldera baokt no sword or mus
ket, bot a cane If ahe llkaa. Hhe looks
then not like a ao'.dlor, but like an Incroy
abla. ona of the famous fops of France In
the dlrectolre period. Hctay bough: a cane
on Fifth arentie. It h«* a big sapphire set
In the handle. I know one girl who said
ghe'll use her Jewelled billiard cue with
her dlrectolre salt.
On the suit of dark blue cloth (see pic
ture D! the rerera are of pale blue satin,
and on each Is embroidered s plump coeka
too On other atilt*, say apple green wkh
nlle-green rovers, the points of which reach
beyond the shouldera, there are also tropical
birds and tropical flowers embroidered with
silk. The tails of the cost are turned back
with pnle green revers of the same color
and shape, and bird* are embroidered ou
each.
It la a trick till* venr In Paris to put a
woman Into a suit that looks like an en
velope See the suit In Illustration C.» Ths
corners not only turn back, but are brougot
together and buttoned.
All sorts of novelties are part of or the
aceompsnlment of the new Fall suits. The
majority of the Summer tfrl* simply know
they’re prwtty But Betsy Brownface. she
knows why each feature Is correct Betsy
is bright. She remembers all her history.
The period of the Plrectolre (Chollle tried
so hard to etplaln It all to me I hope I
have It right) followed tha death of Louie
XVI. and that of Marie Antoinette, who
offered the public cream puffs or something
of that sort. They were terribly Insulted.
Cream-puffs are not so had. say T, though
broakfast food would have been real mean.
Paris, during and following the revolution,
was military mad. and went to excess In
everything
A mill In th„, dnra waa a allt. Jnat nah
rnnr n'.othar rr ynur hnahand. or mad about
th, allt In th, groat hlatorr of ooatuma hy
Rarlnot If I ahonld try to ,xplaln to you.
Mr. Kflltor would out It out. Th, huttona
on th, anlta w,m lilt, th, button, on a aol
dl,r’, uniform Th, collar rallad Roh,a
ptorr,. In rotnnllm,nt to th, aroat mrotn
tlonlat. yon mry are ao now rertvMl on «*-
nr, R.
Thl< roll,! 1« fared with hlarlt and whltn
,11k of th, ror,r,a and th, walat-oat. Fr,n
„ irr . of tho hnnn,ta wort to thoa, dnya
W( . r , anppo to mproaont rannon la.
TVot w,r« round and 010,,1t (Itlln*
( Tn day. In th, mod,rn adaptation, they
an*«oa’t'« portion of a molon rlndt. rinnlty
t!) , dlrortora wora drtoaod to letiv,
hounrta for hlatory. Th, oonaubto fol
-low,d th, nirortolra And fhon aroa, Na-
Rom, of th, naw ooata even ahow
th, Napolaonlf ln(tu,nc f»n a„nlnf rloaka
,M. t, marknrtf though non, of th, hon«,
or evening frorha am now ,mplm In atyl,
Turing th» rttmotolm Pntia had on, of tta
, r a,wa when It trt,d to r,Tt„ the rlaaalr
gevorlty of th* Grecian coatnm,a. On,
fenture. however. W, Americana win not
repeat Th, T>lr,rtolr» ladlm wore no
atocklnga (your mother or your hnahand
will explain about thla whnn they t,lt yon
about th, »llt> They had no high.heeled
ahoca They worn aandnla on their foot
Poor Fra Palmer, th, alater of Courtlandt
Palmer, worn aandnla when ah, enm, her.
In flowing Gmek garment, Inat Rummer.
If ahe had arrived thla aeaaon. with her
Grecian draperlea. now that we alao wear
good plan to have the eyea tested. If head
ache* persist tn aplte of attention to tho
above hint* Any one with weak sight
should wear dark glasses If the aun la
very *tr«ng. and should never alt facing a
strong glare of sunlight*
Heavy clothing lastly, la the explanation
of many people a 111 health tn hot weather.
Heavy coat*, aklrts and unnecessary under
clothing should he discarded, especially by
the women who have to work In town dur
ing midsummer Heavy clothing Increases
the rlak of Hummer cold*, tvecauae we get
overheated and aulwequentty chilled 8o
long aa light woollen clothing la worn nest
the akin, the outer garmeots cannot bo too
llgbt tn texture aud color
To euro Summer headaches trv three
atmple meals a day moderate exercise, eo
podally wa.ktng In the fresh air Try tha
sleep cure If you are liable to do too much,
and take a midday rest If you suffer froai
heat beadacno Im Q ot take drug* upon
aay consideration excepting a simple pur
gatlvac which to always advisable If error*
In diet arv the probable cause of the sick
headache
A hot mustard footbath. • mustard leaf
at tho aapo of the neck, or an application
of oau tlr cinogue to tbo temples and erowa
of th# head, aro uoefu. remedies Always
try to dad oat tho roues tto aot forget
that It to aot boat that to tbo real cause
Is sins cooes out mi tea.
them, she would have created no sneh ■*'*•
But she didn’t care. She went to Bar Har
bor and at the home of her stepfather. L>r.
Robert C. Abbe, was married to Angelo
Flckllanof. a 'Greek poet of noblo brow.
Of course. Eva will wear her draperies for
ever. They are uo raapouse to a fashion
law.
Strange It ts. too. that we tnrned to the
Grecian, revived the Dlrectolre period. Just
when labor was muttering significantly as
it grappled with capital. France, when It
revived Grecian gowns, when It was mili
tary mad. and when women were begin
ning to wear soldierly suits and cannon
ball bonnets, was grappling with royalty.
First there were only n.utteriogs. You
recall what I said about the cream puffs,
and neither cake uor confectionery could
be more silly than some of the sops hand
ed out to-day.
Not all the suits, to return to clothes,
are so severe In line as the one (figure
that Betsy choae. The coat In figure D la
more kindly, and others are really caster
than this In fit, curving gracefully and
gradually toward the sides, and with two
buttons In back to accentuate the short
wa'.sted effect. Instead of the silt being
at the side. It I* often toward the front,
and braid makes two long lines from the
belt to the hem of the skirt. I took
Chollle along the day Betsy Brownface
asked me to go with her to choose a suit.
Chollle waa terribly disappointed. Ho bad
his eye open for the silt. One of the Worth
suits seen on a model did show tho unfilled
silt, but she had x silk petticoat that
looked like a filling And whenever the
silt exist*, there Is doth tnrned hack a“f
flelent to fill It. But Chollle waa to dis
appointed. I was surprised when he to
quickly contented to go with us. but I
soon knew why. I had to give him a poke
with my parasol. Cbollle’s surprise or dis
appointment !• always of the voluble sort.
He chummed too much with Frederick
Townsend Martin.
I ch *oe a suit that had « wsl«teoat of
Irish lace It haa la reality, though, no
watatroat at all. for. realy, two ■ carve# of
the lace with eoft hlgcl satin below, bang
l*»ooely at each side from the collar, and
each Is clasped toward the end with a
mussel shell 1 realty liked a wistaria suit
tetter. *»nt the trimming was almost ei
actly tike tbo -eavy cording on oar dressing
room cbalrs-~llke the ''ord aton u*od to
i bind the four skJf of safo cushions. Tbit
1 round cord »ftrn edges deep cuff* Every
body would have *ald «e had It left over
That very day Betsy bought a Diroe
tolro bonnet. Too iron tla It unless /ss
florrifyip<3
fyjmor as to
Direetoire
ai?d
Pars^.
have one. Of course, you aren’t—but Ib
style, as well as In the bonnet, I mean.
The Dlrectolre bonnets are worn with
allk frocks of the Dlrectolre model. But
some of the glrla at Newport are ao afraid
of the sheath, that, with their abort*
walsted gowna (far too full In the skirt)
and queer bonnets, they look like droll
little figures from Kate Oreenaway plo*
tures. Nothing of the mad French Diree
toire period la suggested. Miss Helen
Morgan, a niece of Herbert Parsons (he
married Elsie Clews, who la now working
feverishly on another anti-marriage book)
wore the first bonnet of thla sort that I
ever saw. When she tripped off the train
at Tuxedo one day, I saw that har bon
net was covered with allk (shirred on a
■tiff frame) exactly like the silk of her
frock. The strings were tied in a btf
bow at the left under her chin. The only
floral decoration was one large red rose
laid on the stiff frame toward the left
For little bonnets of this aort, the mil
liners are studying the pictures in costume
histories. Not one of these little booneta,
however, has a flare equal to that of the
bonnet of the Salvation Army lassie—the
whose bonnet never change*.
But If you promise not to say T told.
I’ll tell you something awful T Juat heard.
It's about those new soft purses in ecru
and brown. They sav they are made
from human skins. They are Just about
as thick and as soft as s kid glove
tanned and '‘cured.” of course. A doctor
I know has a wallet made of It. Tt*« all
due to the reversion to the mad waya of
Parla. When France was grappling with,
and had grappled, royalty, and sttll felt
the insult of the cream-puffs, or whatever
sort of cake It was, men used to go te
dnnres wearing the skint of their ene
mies—the people who had been guillo
tined. Chollle says It’s no worse thaa
any other aort of skin, but my! (recalling
our mention of the donkeys) I’d rather eat
a donkey sandwich than to carry a Dire*
tolre bog of thla sort.
Just to make a cheerful ending. I’d 11k#
to tell you about the new Napoleonle
evening cloaks, but they make a story la
tnemselves. You throw one end of the
cloak over your chest and shoulders. Just
as Roman Senators handled their dra
peries.
How to Have a Flat
tering Picture Taken.
M>ST every girl has a drawer full of
unsatisfactory photographs of her
self—pictures sho Is ashamed to
pive to any one she cares for Some "do
not 1 like her," she says: others maka
her seem old or Immature or faded, and tbo
majority are tabooed because of the dresa
or hat she wore.
In a general way the blame Is vaguely
placed on the photographer. wh-> Is really
not responsible at all All the camera man
can do ts to make the beat of you ae yon
appear to him. How yon appear Is yoor
own fault or credit. The following sugges
tions will help greatly in getting wished for
results from photographs :
In the first place, unless there la aa
urgent reason, don’t go to the photographer
If you are out of health or in low spirits.
If ycu do. the tactless camera will anrely
record It, In spit# of the photographers'
efforts in retouching. If you are tired It to
better to stay sway.
When tired, unhappy or fit tbs
end blood vessels of the face which give yog
upr.-xlon arc all out of their normal ie
lotion and th# picture !* certain not to da
you Justice.
Whenever (vsslMe. 1t Ik money well spent
to drive to the photographer'#.
A Just the mode-of-the-moment style of
o-tume. »r coiffure, will "date” the pbo
t -craph. and sooo make It look out of
fashion-
Be raref'il about wearing a new dress.
It I* aim rat certain not to fail | n graceful
f»'ld* an l it* result la that stiff, foolish.
P*«»e<l look that photographs eo often have.
If a dres* it becoming on account of a
tint of p'.nk or blue or t other color, de
I °* B to help your looks In the
,Mrtnr. niu. pbotofrtpht whit*. r*4
’ *- v ’ka Mack, ilaht. yellow *od pink appear
a* various shades of grayw
t \ «titt- Ur**, .r out INXt (Jpe# •*wll!tt."*
I gives s ghastly effect, tod one for from
■ aim# i..ii»#n tn* sitter is venue sod
pretty
1 A feather fn*. or a fichu, has t
wonderfully softening effect on the foa
. i nr*n.
Generally spesktng. rhe bead and ehooW
dcra make a far prettier picture than a
• i • x.n portrait
* veil Itnoart* a patrbv appearance ta
•he face and It should I*e re-nembered *bat
t oat people wonder wtiat sos the mattaf
with your compiaMoo that caused yea M
i * tax the roll