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WOMAN’S WORLD
WOMEN OF FASHION.
Some Rich Garments That the
Fall Will Bring Forth.
• ICOrTJUCHT, IBM.]
Lovely autumn has fairly dawnod.
Never was sky bluer, never air more
exhilarating, never sun shone more
brilliantly, never was fashion’s throng
in happier and more blithesome mood.
On clear days Broadway is literally
thronged with gay promenaders and
busy shoppers. How they come and go
in their bright attire and with their
bunches of fall flowers! My flying trip
down the crowded avenue was sudden
ly interrupted by a “How do you do?’’
end a traveler in distant lands stood
before me. “I am just back from Lon
don and Paris,” he aid, “and, you may
take my word for it, there’s no place
tike New York. Ivo been walking
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M JOHmw I
„ ■... 1 ' 1
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AX ‘AMPLE COAT.
Broadway all morning and can’t get
enough of it. Our women know how
to dress, I assure you.” J smiled at his
enthusiasm, and accepted the compli-'
ment in behalf of my countrywomen.
And why shouldn’t we be glad and
pay? Isn’t this the loveliest season
of the year, save, perhaps, the early
i pring? Isn’t it delightful to walk
out in the prettiest fall costume you
ever had In your life, with a great
bunch of roses in your hand,
making such a picture that even
the women smile ut you in pleased
fashion as you pass? Isn’t the
city fresh - looking after the dry
and faded look you have seen the
country wear for *<> long? Isn’t the
touch of chill in pie air the greatest
incentive to bri/k walking? Don’t
you come buqk with a glow on your
i c!i'“. !;s and a'glipw at 1 your heart?
'l’hen, too, don’t you rejoice that our
beloved country is once more prosper
Ate
< z Jill
SOME FALL VARIETIES.
ing, that that troublesome silver lined |
I cloud has lifted itself and is slowlj |
(dispersing? That the faces of hu&
bands and fathers and brothers have i
iceased to look anxious?
Why, when we stop to enumerate
our reasons for being glad, we find
that we are in need of more fingers
.upon each hand.
But what is the gay throng made up
of? Mostly, smart fall costumes, with
a suggestion of the tailor, and of the
ifur below as well, and made sufficiently
warm by the addition of revers, hip
truffles and shoulder ruffles.
It may some to pass that the coat, in
fits forte of protecting and warm keep
ing, will be outdone by these numer
ous appendages that flutter and fall
febout us. For what need have we of
other shoulder covering when the big,
full ruffle falls there? And how can
chest grow cold beneath bretelle
and rever that spread so protectingly
over? Besides, the coat is sure to in
terfere with all of our big sleeve ar
rangements. That is why the cape and
the dainty wrap and mantle will be so
popular this winter. They are more
yielding, and lie more gently over our
eccentricities and vagaries.
]' The new garment Is dlthercompound
or complex—never simple. It takes
some time to analyze; but is worth the
trouble. The first thing that you will
note will be the long effect of the
front in contrast to the short effect of
Ithe back. It is a peculiarity of most
of the new capes. A beauty in black
[velvet has two short, full ruffles that
do not .reach even to the waist line,
and that are gathered on a plain yoke.
A high collar, slanting off into long
points that run down the front, covers
the yoke completely. Between the
collar and the cape a long rever of
white embroidery runs completely
around, meeting in a point in front.
’There a white knot catches it, then the
embroidered band is carried down over
to the right side and fastened. Thence
two widening streamers of black vel
vet full almost to the feet. Streamers,
capesand collar are all edged with fur.
Another is made of three cloth capes,
very short, just saved from flatness by
a slight undulation, each edged with a
double row of plain galloon. These
do not reach so far tty the elbow, and
are caught away entirely just in front,
fastened at the shoulder, to a broad
velvet stole in black, astrachan edged,
that falls nearly to the feet. It is very
striking.
Then there’s a beautiful three-quar
ter length wrap in heavy faille, with
delicate passementerie bands running
down the front, which broaden out at
the bottom into large corner pieces.
Fur edges the bottom of the wrap.
At the neck there is, first, a velvet col
lar that slopes off into a plain shoulder
cape, without a wrinkle; secondly, a
cape beneath that falls in pretty co
quillcs, ending in sharp points that
hang at each side of the embroidered
bands.
An exquisite little garment of black
plush has one cape falling to the waist
at back and sides, gradually widening
ut the front, and falling in soft cas
cades. Over the plush cape a very
short one in heavy white silk'falls, em
broidered beautifully at the edge.
Then a great double ruche of velvet
forms the collar.
A cape in rich golden brown cloth
has big sleeve ruffles of black velvet,
bordered with the brown; has a beau
tiful pointed plastron of falling jet,
headed with a broad jet band touched
here and there with astrachan, and is
alternated with astrachan tails. An
astrachan boa forms the collar.
A beautiful opera cloak of old rose
silk is lined with a slightly duller
shade of satin. A eape of terracotta
velvet fulls over, edged with old rose
silk. At the back the cape is caught
down by a passementerie of the same
color, with a line bead fringe fulling
from it.
■ One coat that I saw seemed to meet
the exigencies of this year of grace*
for the sleeves appeared very large,
even to eyes long accustomed to am
plitude. A flat, sloping collarette fell
over the shoulders, bordered with two
rows of tiny braid, which tqok a down
ward course at the front, and then ran
back over the hips. A ruffle was added,
at the bottom of the coat. A big as
traehan collar slighted pointed was at
the front.
But let me lead you gently out of the
wilderness of style in which we nsve ’
been wandering. Let me point you to |
these sign posts that lie along the way,
and perhaps they will guide you into
straighter paths. For they state that
the 1830 slope of the shoulders will be
accentuated by every new rever and
every new collarette; that velvet and
satin will vie with each other for as
cendancy in trimming thiswinter; that
combinations of material will be not
only the opportunity of the careful
economist, but the necessity of the
reckless spendthrift; that jet bands
will be greatly in vogue; that the boa
craze shows no symptoms of decay;
that you are permitted to elongate
your last year’s chpe by a velvet ruffle
to match; that if you will have a novel
irrangement of ruffle they must start
in mpdest width at the front, and
broaden out into alarming proportions
st the back; that your fall gown may be
a, continuous ruffle, and still be fash
ionable; and lastly, that silk will be
seen more frequently in New York
Streets than ever it was before.
Eva A. Schubebt.
•ssaiSoid oq wtnrjsjsai qsuai aqt
st eraqi ajaqAv ssed on Japao ut apis oj opts
nio-ijsaqj it ‘qiud sji jo aotiuApr oiEtporanit
oqr tn jib aqi sasuapnoa Sutu}q2t[ eq’s sy
tSMOgoj su st 3utuiq3q jo qsep u Xq pans
-and esjnoa 3uz3tz aqi jo uotiumqdxa oqx
•uapiutn aj}
-Qt( tt pros ~‘Sntqooi o.ib upload uaq.w jaiiaq
Xv;d s£bmj« ayy,, ’ no "utqooi aq 04 uadduq
oq.usjappi Jiaqi jo uotitnaaaddß inapt A0 aqi
ttf ajusvafd pappu pntj .Caqi inq ‘satmffl SB
samsHaqi Xofua uarpitqa am on Xmo on kt
FASHION’S NEWS.
The Fickle Dame Has at Length
Frowned Upon Hoops.
LSpcvlal Correspondence.]
New York, Sept. 21.—And bo wo are
not to have hoops thia season, and the
skirts are coming down to more reason
able proportions, though they still stand
out quite wide around the bottom. This
is the dictum of fashion, and tho ladies
who have been undecided may now make
up their fall gowns in empire gores, in
round skirts of straight breadths or the
circle, or the skirts may bo plaited. There
is u wide liberty of choice. But no skirt
is to train on the sidewalk in the street.
All dresses to be worn out of doors
should clear tho ground at least half an
inch all around. Skirts are still slightly
fajra
MB
STREET AND HOUSE DRESSES,
stiffened around the bottom by means of
crinoline or wigan. Few use the horse
hair, as it is such scratchy stuff.
The favorite dress material for nice
out of door gowns will doubtless be
broadcloth in the beautiful new shades,
and after that will come the changeable
wools, which are of remarkable beauty
this fall, and they arc of excellent qual
ity. The woolen changeable goods are
durable for tho first time, as mohair is
used for tho underlying color instead of
silk. This is quite as lustrous as silk
and gives more body.
Overskirts to woolen and other dresses
are seen quite often, and they aro looped
either at one side or in festoons all
around. I took note of an imported
walking gown made in this fashion.
The skirt was of gendarme blue cloth
and tho overskirt of mode cloth. This
was looped at intervals all around, and
down each seam was a very narrow band
of astrakhan. The waist was of tan,
with a fanciful overbodice of tho blue,
with every seam outlined with tho nar
row fur bands. The sleeves were of
soft puffs with three stiff little caps at
the shoulder, each lined with the mojjy
color and with the blue outside. T:.o
back of the corsage was pointed as we il
as tho front. There was a short wr. p
mado of blue cloth faced with thomod
which could be thrown over tho shoul
ders if the day was tool.
I saw another o/d dress, which goes
to'show that fur will be very largely
employed as trimming on tho most ms
promising kinds of material and patter l .
This was a plaid cheviot, brown and
mode. Tho skirt was plain, with all tbs
plaits set in the back. There was a
vest of cream colored surah with a belt
of sealskin. The Eton jacket had wins
revers also of sealskin, and there was a
band all around the skirt of the same
fur scalloped out and bound on the
edges with a very neat and narrow
cream colored velvet binding. The plaid
was cut on the straight, sleeves and al>.
Only tho practiced eyo would pick thi i
dress out of a hundred as tho costliest
dress of all. It was lined with silk and
finished in tho most perfect manner.
There aro many novelties in furs for
domisaison, among them a fichu capo oi
black astrakhan. This crosses over the
bust, and the tabs reach tho back and
fall below tho waist. The collars are
not as high or flaring as they were, but
then the storm collars aro not often seen
on early capes. Tho capes of marten
and other furs stand out all around in
the same stylo as the cloth capes, and
they naturally cost more than the little
close ones used to. The tiny English fur
collar mado of a small “beastie” is quite
popular with young folks, and the feath
er bows will be very generally worn for
early fall, and in fact, 1 think, alt th<
all tho season, as they uro too becoming
to bo thrown aside, and they can be worn
with coats.
Tho new cloth dresses aro so very re
fined that I cannot refrain from telling
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ife; I®]/
NEW CLOTH MODEL DRESSES.
of two more imported models. One was
of old rose cloth, with two sets of but
tons on the skirt, a full French waist
and a short cape with pearl gray velvet
revers and collar. The other was a prin
cess of drab cloth, with narrow fur
strips down each seam. The upper part
of the corsage was of emerald velvet,
and so were the puffs to the sleeves. In
the back the surplus fullness of the skirt
was laid in fan plaits at the waist line
of tho three seatns. The lining for the
princess is cut ail.in one and the upper
part sewn onto the same lining.
Olive Harper.
Mrs. Anson says it must have been a wom
an who inv'-nted the alphabet. If it had
been a man, he would have begun it with
the letter I. But Mrs. Anson is probably
wrong. If a woman had invented it, the
first letter would have been U.
WrtcLE. septembetWWM
WOMAN’S REALM.
Royalty a Great Attraction to
The Fair Sex.
[Copyright, 1803, by American Press Associa
tion.]
It was growing cool at Aix-les-Bains
and people were thinking of the superior
charms of Paris and getting ready to go
when the king of Greece arrived, and
everybody decided to sir.y a few weeks
longer, for royalty is certainly a great
attraction, though, to be sure, the king
of Greece is the quietest and most mod
est of men. He comes for his health,
but that does not alter the fact that ho
is a real, live king and much more ap
proachable than the most of kings. So
Aix-les-Bains brightened up again, and
hasty orders brought some wonderful
now toilets not quite so diaphanous, but
richer than those seen before.
There are picnics where scarcely any
one nut titled persons or “quality” are
present, and these picnics are arranged
on tho Dutch plan, each one paying his
or her own expenses. And lots of fun
/iCIhWW
G/W 1 ' W
Ifr B
„IM * MIO
THE WATTEAU PICNIC GOWN,
they have over it. At these picnics the
ladies dress in their very prettiest and
most picturesque gowns, always with a
view to tho lovely green trees and shrub
bery in tho background. The van with
the provisions precedes the carriages by
about 100 yards, and the carriages fol
low as though going to a funeral, but
the bright costumes and parasols, hats
and fanciful wraps and fluttering rib
bons, make it appear a very lively “in
terment.”
Tho king was invited to one of these
delightful picnics by the young Duchess
of Bligny out of courtesy, and much to
every one’s surprise he went, not in tho
procession, but quietly in his own car
riage, meeting the party on the grounds,
which were about six miles from the
shore, and he insisted on paying his ex
penses, 10 francs. There were several
Americans there, and it must be admit
ted that they “dearly love a lord.” One
was in absolute despair because she
thought a rough and ready costume the
best for a picnic. The young duchess
wore a regular watteau costume of pink
-tgSsta, with an overdress of pale blue
foulard with pink and green figures on
it. Her slippers had high red heels, and
she wore a pink plume in her hair.
The sly little woman had worn a sur
tout of gray alpaca so that no one had
even guessed her costume until she took
off her big hat, of which the pink feather
had seemed a part, and unbuttoned the
surtout and stepjied forth in that be
witching gown. The rough and ready
American nearly died of vexation. The
pretty duchess looked like a picture just
come to life. She is pretty anyhow and
ge icrally affects the picturesque. One
day she wore a gown of black lace over
red velvet, and another day she wore a
pink silk muslin with 30 flounces of
white, buttonholed on the edges with
silver thread. But not every one can
afford such toilets.
I was told that there would be quite a
revival of watteau costumes this season
for high teas and receptions—not simply
the watteau plaits down the back, but
the whole design, with low panniers
or loopings. The elbow sleeve will come
in with them. The quaint printed silks
of this season lend themselves admira
bly to the watteau styles. There is a pale
blue and white striped peau de soie
which has rows of tiny but most per
fect flowers printed on the white stripes.
The same design is carried out in lilac,
lavender and pale rose leaf pink, a shade
that has been out several years. This
and peachblow silk in rich qualities are
very delicate. There are also several
beautiful striped silks where the darker
stripe is of ashes of roses, an exquisite
tint. These silks naturally are for home
and evening wear.
To return to our picnic. The brilliant
and beautiful Countess of Martel, who
writes so many novels, was there, and
she is always exquisitely dressed, though
a “literary person.” Her gown was of
golden brown faille, draped and flounced
with rare old Spanish lace. The drapery
surrounded the shoulders and was drawn
fichu fashion around the bust and down
to the hips, where it formed a slight
pannier, and then it crossed to the back
and was tied loosely, the ends falling
nearly to the bottom of the skirt. The
ends were made double by sewing two
widths of the lace together. A poke
bonnet 'was of shirred silk like the dress,
with dark brown velvet ribbon that
tied under the chin and two upright
bows, filled in with a mass of pink
crush roses without leaves.
At the improvised tables were some
remarkable people. The Princess de
Leon was there, wearing an 1830 gown
of royal purple cloth, richly trimmed
with fine black and gold braid, sewn on
in a palm leaf pattern and studded here
and there by a tiny cut She
had a bonnet trimmed with velvet dah
lias. and her gloves were lilac. She is
no longer young, but will always remain
a striking woman, and she knows how
to dress. The dainty little Princess de
Sagan was also there and was handed
to her piacs by-the Marquis fie Germ,
who is at Aix for his health.
The princess wore a dress of gray silk
warp henrietta and white serge. The
skirt was cut with an elliptic flounce,
and this had a band of white serge at
the bot tom, headed by a silver braid. At
the. knees where it joined there was_ a
TuadsusrnoMoun ‘ootjiLa-..J*
thev \ - - v-cucec dSd a band
of thZemoroiderj', and so had sleeves.
The belt was of the same, held by a
quaint silver buckle. She'-had a tri
corne straw hat, gray, with white and
maize rosettes of crape, and a white
aigret in front. The Prince Talleyrand-
Perigord de Sagan was also there and
wore a white duck vest and a pleasant
smile, besides a Prince Edward suit of
drab tweed. The king of Greece wore a
plain black frock coat suit and looked
like a pleasant, studious man who
smiled much and said little.
After and before the delicious open air
dinner the guests played the famous
French scissors game and gros tete, and
some of tho ladies blindfolded won hand
some prizes by cutting a ribbon. There
aro 20 or 80 ribbons stretched from two
poles, and on each is a prize. The lady
is then blindfolded, and with a pair of
scissors walks about 30 steps, after
turning twice around, and cuts. If she
reaches a ribbon and cuts it, she gets
whatever was hung on it. The gros
teto is a big paper head, and you throw
sticks at it. The one who hits it gets a
prize, often a ridiculous thing. Men
play at this mostly. These are inno
cent? amusements and do not disarrange
the toilets like tennis, which is not very
much liked in France. The company
sang to guitars and a flute and walked
about picking late flowers, and after a
decorous tea, al fresco, returned to Aix
les-Bains without injury to one toilet
or temper.
Yesterday two ladies had fall dresses
sent them and naturally displayed them
today upon the plage. One was a soft
cheviot, with diagonal weave. The color
was a clear biscuit, with two gray stripes
between one broken line of black. There
were two gathered ruffles of the same.
The belt was of black velvet, and so were
the collar and shoulder straps. The sleeves
were double puffs, and there were epau
lets of ecru lace. The poke hat was of
ecru straw, with black velvet and pink
roses. The parasol was of biscuit surah,
uptrimined. The written description of
this exquisite dress does not convey its
neat and elegant appearance.
The other dress was of corded cloth,
somewhat like bedford cord, but in this
the cord is up and down, with the un
derlying surface of a different color.
This was black and gold. The gold
showed only in certain lights. Around
the bottom there was a band of plaid in
black and brown, with a thread of gold
color on each stripe that made the plaid.
There was a yoke of this plaid and a
ripple bertha of the same, topped by a
narrower one of the cloth. The sleeves
were gigot and of black velvet. The cor
sage buttoned on the left side and was
double breasted and had small postil
ions at the back. The skirt had open-,
ings in front which buttoned under
flaps. The bonnet was of jet and gold
beads, with a bead butterfly. There was
a tan colored surah parasol to go with
this, and tho costume was much admired. I
I have just heard of a trosseau about i
finished for a young American girt who '
is to be presented to the queen in Lorn .
don and then is going home to be rnarJE
tied. Her court dress is ashes of rose®—
train lined with white satin. The frqf
of the dress is of pearl embroidered wW v
crape over white satin and with a ba.nq?
of white ostrich tips at the bottom. Th j
train is held with ropes of pearls which |
droop down over the shoulders. A tuft
of white ostrich tips and an aigret
will be worn on the hair. The slippers
are white satin embroidered with seed
pearls. A fan of w-hite plumes with a
studded pearl handle will complete this
superb gown and give the American col
ony in London another reason to feel
proud.
Tho wedding gown is made of mat
white peau de soie, and the skirt is quilt
ed in diamond pattern, each corner being
held by fine pearl beads. The watteau
train is of white brocade lined with white
satin, and all around the train is sewn a
twisted rope of pearls nearly an Inch in
gflfew
NEW PARISIAN FALL GOWNS,
diameter. They are not real pearls, but
those on the square corsage are, and so
are those in the necklace that is to be
worn with the dress. The veil consists
of a square of tulle hemmed 10 stitches
deep in the back and with pearls set one
inch apart all along the hem. The sides
and front are hemmed two inches deep
with beads set along the hem. A white
velvet prayer book has the monogram
of the bride in pearls. I had intended
writing more, but me voila at the end of
my paper. Mary Derwent.
Aix-les-Bains, Sept. 12.
The state of Illinois has among its pro
fessional women 334 doctors, 53 drug
gists, 16 dentists, 23 lawyers and 12
preachers. Illinois contains also a large
number of newspaper women.
A Good Recipe.
Lady of the House (to eminent phy
sician)—How do you contrive, doctor,
to be constantly in good health and look
so flourishing?
M. R. C. S.— It is quite simple, madam.
I live by my prescriptions, but never
take them. —Humoristische Blatter.
Too Mucli So.
“And this maid—is she truthful?”
asked the lady of the reference.
“Very. That is why I discharged her.
“She wouldn’t tell people I was out when
I was in.”—Harpers Bazar.
A Simple Matter.
Amateur Model—Now, be sure you
don’t get my feet too large.
Illustrator—Oh, they will be reduced
one-half in the reproduction. —Vogue.
« L Tonic. /■'
For BN .-AspConstipation and Ma
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For Fever, Chills, Debility and Kidney.
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Ladles, for natural and thorough organ
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Dr. Mozlny’s Lemon Elixir Is prepared
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Prepared only by Dr. H. Mozeley, At
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A BANKER WRITES;
From experience In my family, Dr. H.
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W. H. MAGNESS. Pree. Nat l Bank,
McMinnville. Tenn.
A CARD
For nervous and slek headaches, indi
gestion. bllllouaness and constipation (of
which I have been a great sufferer) I
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give Buch pleasant, prompt and permanent
relief aa Dr. H. Mozelev's Lemon Elixir.
_ . J. P. SAWTELL, Griffin, Ga.
Publisher Morning Call.
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CASTSB MSSICINE W„ Njt Tert
M B hall M
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A recent discovery by on old
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and A A/dcino discov-.
3 it unprincipled i
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Evans Chemical C°.~HfcO s “
Cincinnati, o.
u. a. a.
VW - • W
VALUABLE FARMS
FOR SALE.
We offer for sale tho Crawford Rhodes
plantations in tracts to suit purchasers.
These lands are seven miles below Au
gusta and are noted for their fertility
and never-failing crops. 'They are offered
at extremely low prices because it is ab
solutely necessary that every acre be
sold before January. 1594. Among these
places are Bruners Island, old Joo
Ware place, two Snead tracts, and what
is known as “The Mound." the latter
being one of the finest stock farms in
Richmond county, besides abounding in
most valuable timber. Good roads to all
these places and free from genera!
i nuisances.
Call at our office for plats and other
■ information. Terms 1-4 cash and balance
in 1, 2 and 3 years.
ALEXANDER&JOHNSON
705 Broad Street.
SYPHILIS
TMil Guarantv. All stages. Bone Rheumatism,
Ulcers and Mucous Patches cured in 20 d*?*-
Cure permanent, not a patching up. Can be no fall-
El>'iT Suites 51 and 62 Dexter 81dg.,54 Adams
Street. CHICAGO.
Essd We Chronicle.