Newspaper Page Text
Youth and Grace
in Woman’s Dress
Poor randame ! Having a love of
beautiful and a discriminating
I'm dress, and being fortunate in
Z Possession of a long purse, she
•f a a s badly off as Flora McFUmsy,
J nothing to wear unless she has
llceeded in retaining that slim sil
houette Fnder the nutocratlc rule ? f
Lstuers, observes a fashion writer in
J, N e\v York Times, an ideal has
heen created and a standard estab-
Sed, and life, as to clothes, Is sim
ile for the woman who meets the re
auirements, though otherwise it is a
Lblem requiring devoted attention
or( l involving many difficulties.
It is as if the whole world of fash
ion makers had conspired against the
, vo,nan who is smart, yet not neces-
l
Maize Silk Etamine Embroidered In
Scarlet Floss With Corai Ornament.
k sarily slim curveless. The most
tempting models are for fig
ure, and to place them further beyond
the reach of any other, the original
French models are confined to sizes
no larger than “35.” The saleswoman
usually displays this to the timid, ai*
most apologetic customer, as being
“the very largest size we carry.”
This applies, of course, to the wom
an who longs to possess the original
and wishes to avoid, if possible, the
Irksome experience of being fitted. She
of the youthful figure, with fresh skin
and hair of natural shade, still finds
that, unless she has kept her figure
and avoirdupois within bounds, she is
“hard to fit,” and, being a plump 40,
is distressed to find that the type of
frock that was charming on a “per
fect 36” looks quite different on her.
To be unsylphlike is handicap
enough, but to have arrived at the
period when one must acknowledge or
he reminded that moyen-age styles are
the correct thing for one Is to realize,
,lle y say, the first gray In the other
wise bright sky of a merry world. For
Hie woman of fashion who has put off
Hi s somber day by being industrious
in training, the way is still pleasant
md the best and most beautiful things
created by Parisian artists are for her
ns long as she desires them. Hair cun
Shown in Knitted Wear
For dress and semi-dress occasions,
'tie beautifully patterned and colored
plain goods of this season are deligbt
f'all.v adapted, and the possibilities of
ha PPy results with these In the hands
°f artists are almost unlimited. It is
'be sports dress and the tailleur that
present the real problem. Each of
these, in the strictest sense, belongs to
'he jeunesse, the slim, the willowy
'JPe, hut must be adapted to the ma
''irer figure. This is accomplished
h ‘■mart effect and much charm in
'he one-piece frock, cut very coatl'ke,
''might and belted loosely; in the
tunic, and in the overblouse and skirt.
A " these are successfully illustrated
ln the knitted goods—light, gossamer
woolens, silk jersey, roshanara crepe
eponge, pongee and alpaca.
I ! a its— the tunic of narrow plaiting
e “ tlre —!°ng, slender panels, and rows
rjf buttons outlining the frock from
'°P to bottom, accentuate length and
:,e a slenderizing effect and are
'omehow younger and more chic than
he Plainer models. Home of the most
delusive shops in New York are offer
ln? tljese semi-tailleur suits in white.
he camouflaged, dog collars are for
telltale necklines, angel sleeves soften
sharp angles—and many another trick
may be turned. But when moyen-age
adds silver to the hair und pounds to
the figure there Is cause for despair
and the question of dress becomes
acutely important.
French Women Reticent.
It is something u French woman
never admits except to herself. What
ever is becoming she will wear, and
she critically views herself and de
cides that illusion and effect come of
emphasis of her points of charm and
of subordinating, negativing, as It
were, the marks of the years and the
evidences of too much enjoyment of
ease. She knows the value of having
hair perfectly coiffed and hands and
feet immaculately clad.
Some of the older artists, Worth,
Paquin, Drecoll, Itedfern—master
hands in the art of gowning women—
seemed to have a special sense in this
important service, and their clients
looked always /so well and so becom
ingly dressed that the evidence of age
was artistically softened and dignified.
Judged by her silhouette—so it be
de rigueur—any woman in these times
may wear anything she chooses, and
usually she Is successful, for Ameri
can women are graduates in taste and
style. For them the best designers of
Europe and America have worked out
models that will please the fancy and
coinfort the heart by keeping youth
and grace in the figure.
The fashionable woman of a genera
tion ago was unaware of the archi
tecture that reconstructs the figure to
the present model. To summarize, she
wore stays, and crinoline, and bones.
These belong to the Dark Ages, as far
as concerns the modern woman; which
greatly simplifies the task of the
modiste who helps the middle-aged
woman to express taste and style In
her appearance.
The waistline dropped to the point
of the hip was the life-saving innova
tion. To that is drawn the ling
V-shaped neck, the gracefully tapered
shawl collar, the wide cascading cape,
the jabot. The skirt, In slight drapery,
is caught usually with a motif of flow
ers or jeweled ornament, or a garni
ture that trails in lengthwise line to
the bottom of the skirt.
One-Piece Gown, Real Test.
The one-piece gown, the real test,
lias many variants, the essential of
which is the coat dress. This, In light
or heavy materials, is becoming to
every figure of any proportions. The
gown proper is made In a straight
model, with a panel, like a full-length
waistcoat, whether plain and fitted, or
plaited and held by a belt or girdle.
The tunic, which may be three
quarters, seven-eighths or full length,
is one of the most comfortable and en
tirelv satisfactory models suitable tor
older women. The silk Jersey tunic
for daytime and the beaded tunic for
evening wear were brought out several
years ago, isolated, single and ex
treme” styles, that took at once.
Worth, Beer, Jenny, Molyneus.
Cheruit are now giving us one-piece
gowns. Jenny, Alice, Bernard, Louise
boulanger, Preinet, Doeulllet, Drecoll,
to mention special and representative
designers, present Interesting variants
of the tunic, and Poiret. I.anvln.
Jeanne Hallee, Doucet, Patou are
among those who Illustrate the savins
grace of a slight lift of the sklA la
draped lines.
No preceding season has offered as
much inducement in material for slen
der modeling and graceful drapery
The soft silks, crepes, voiles, marqul
sette, and all the shades of weaving In
sheer fabrics respond to the artistic
designs cannily established for the
clientele to whom It matters so vitally
wliite-and-black or collars in stripes,
and sharply marked bars. One that It
liked by ultra-fashionable women Is ac
informal outfit—skirt of white Jersey
plaited; overhlouse of crepe, embroid
ered In colored crewels, and three
quarter svventer coat of the Jersey
with deep shawl collar, large pockets
and narrow belt of glace kid.
The overblouse, touching the knee
is the answer to many difficulties it
the summer outfit for moyen-age. Ii
1b soft, supple, yet straight, dropplnf
with its own weight, and Is worn un
belted. The skirt beneath, whether I*
is plain, kilted or flaring, adds grnoi
to the figure and is flattering to fee
and ankles.
The cretonne coats that wen
brought out with the first suggest lot
of seaside dress are having a vogue
They are so picturesque, summery sin<
serviceable that they and their vari
ants, whatever they come to he, ur
likely to have a long run of popularity
They nre the simplest type of gar
ment. cut ns straight as a man’s smok
ing jacket, and with no more elaborr
tion in outline.
THE DANIELSVILLE MONITOR, DANIELSVILLE, GEORGIA.
wuUyslvening
Fairy lalg
Bonner /$■
MRS. SCREECH OWL
“I’ve always thought it n pity," said
Mrs. Screed) Owl to her dear mate,
“that they called you u screech owl
Instead of calling you some name such
as Melody-Owl.
"To me your melody is very beauti
ful. It sounds like the wild and won
derful woods at night. It has a beau
tiful tremble about It.
“And oh, you sing ns though you so
loved ine. That makes me think It Is
60 beautiful.”
“Ah, Mrs. Owl,” said Mr. Screech
Owl, “to you my song Is beautiful be
cause you love me. And it Is nice
that it is so. For lots of us aren’t
blessed with many of the qualities and
the charms which those who love us
think we have.”
“But Mr. Screech Owl,” said Mrs.
Owl, “I have heard others say the
same.
Sometimes when we have been sit
ting here with our eyes half shut and
our feathers close to our bodies so
tlmt w’e look so much like the part of
the gray-brown-red bark of the tree,
I have heard people talk, and they did
not know I was here to listen.
“I shouldn’t wonder but what you,
too, have heard these speeches, but
you are too modest to repent them.
“Yes, I have heard that others think
your voice Is really very musical.
“They think It Is a bit strange at
first, a trifle wdld, a little unusual,
but they think, too, there Is beauty
In your song.
“To me It Is the most wonderful
song In the world. Other birds may
sing pretty little songs, but your song
Is so different.
“It trembles forth through the trees
and the woods and its long, drawn
out, marvelous notes are to me so glor
ious.
"You sing with such earnestness,
too. Oh, you should never have been
named screech owl even If you can
screech If you want to —no, with your
beautiful voice you should not have
been named screech owl.”
Mr. Screech Owl smiled at his mate
and his eyes looked very big and hand
some.
“I want you to like my singing.
That Is why I fring as I do—wlfli so
much earnestness ns you say.
“I wanted you to share my home
with me. Together I knew we would
Mr. Screech Owl Smiled at His Mate
enjoy the hollow tree where we built
our nest and where you laid the white
eggs in the old bits of soft wood and
lining we fixed.
“That is wliy I sing with all my pow
er. And now, that we are mates, I
(Still want you to think rny voice Is
nice and so I sing my song to you on
the summer evenings.
“What does It matter If there are
many who say it makes the shivers
go up and down their hacks to hear
me?
“You like It and that is enough
for me.
“I feel satisfied. But yet again 1
want to feel sure you will continue to
like It.
“So I sing on and on, often far Into
the night.
“But let us have a mice dinner now.
What do you say, Mrs. Owl?
“It seems to me a mice dinner
would be excellent for us."
Mrs. Owl agreed to this.
But ns she went forth with Mr.
Screech Owl she could not help say
ing to herself agnin and again:
“He shouldn’t have been named
Screech Owl. His voice is thrilling,
that Is what It Is.”
And that satisfied Mr. Owl. If she
liked his song of love and devotion to
her what did he care If there were
people In the world who said It made
the creeps go up and down their backs?
What did he care about their backs?
Nothing, absolutely nothing at all!
Riddle*
Why did the chicken run? Because
It saw the fox-trot.
• • •
Why are eggs unlucky? Because
thev often get beaten.
Much Corn Fails
to Attain Grade
Large Portion of Loss Sus
tained Can Be Saved by
Better Handling.
(Prepared by the United StatCH Department
of Agriculture.)
Much of the corn shipped from coun
try points to terminal murkets that is
inspected and graded by federally li
censed grain inspectors fails to meet
the requirements for grade No. 1, ac
cording to grain Inspection statistics
of the United States Department of
Agriculture.
The proportion of corn receipts in
spected at terminal markets from
1917 to 1921 which met the require
ments for grade No. 1 runged from
1 per cent to 27 per cent of the total
crop. The remainder of the corn fell
Into one of the lower grades and was
consequently sold at n reduced price.
Loss to Producers.
Considerable money loss to produc
ers results from marketing corn which
does not meet the requirements for
grade No. 1, a large portion of which
loss can be saved through better han
dling of the corn on the farm, the de
partment says.
The principal factors that affect
the commercial grnde of corn are qual
ity, condition, color, test weight per
bushel, moisture content, foreign ma
terial ar.u cracked corn, total dam
aged kernels, heat-damaged kernels,
odGr, temperature und live weevils or
other insects Injurious to stored
grain.
Any shelled corn which has n nat
ural odor, Is free from live weevils or
other injurious insects, and has a
test weight of at least 55 pounds per
bushel, a moisture content of not more
than 14 per cent, does not contain over
2 per cent of foreign materials or
finely cracked corn or more than 2
per cent of total damaged corn, and
no heat-damaged kernels, will grade
No. 1 under the government stand
ards for shelled corn. Most of the
corn which fails to meet the require
ments for grnde No. 1 usually receives
one of the lower grades because of a
single fnctor, although some lots nre
assigned the lower grnde on account
of two or more grading factors.
Careful Study Made.
The department has brought togeth
er In a mimeographed pamphlet the
recommendations of severul Investiga
tors who have made n careful study
of the problem of how to handle corn
on the furm so ns to assure a high
grade and consequently a high price
for the corn when It Is sold on the
terminnl markets. Copies of this
pamphlet may he obtained upon re
quest to the bureau of agricultural
economics, United States Department
of Agriculture, Washington, D. O.
Potash Makes Much Land
Profitable for Farmers
One may safely say that crops can
not be grown profitably on muck or
peat lands until potash has been sup
plied to them In generous quantities.
These lands are of vegetable origin,
most of them containing possibly ten
times as much ammonia as phosphoric
acid or potash. The seriousness of
such a condition in relation to plant
growth Is understood when It is re
membered that plants usually require
these three materials In practically the
reverse proportions.
Thus we find muck land farmers In
Increasing numbers using fertilizers
relatively high in phosphoric acid and
potash. For example, the Ohio sta
tion is recommending a 2-8-8 fertilizer
for onions and celery on muck Innd,
while New York suggests an 0-10-10
for onions and 4-8-10 for celery. In
diana recommends an 0-12-12 fertilizer
for cereals and general crops in case
the soils are acid, while on non-ncld
soils, 0-8-24 or straight potash Is ad
vocated.
Banking With Earth Is
Best to Blanch Celery
Banking with earth is the ordinary
method of blanching celery. Have the
rows of plants at least 3H to 4 feet
ipart and draw the earth from be
tween the rows up to the plants as
they grow. Boards placed at each
side of the row and held upright with
stakes are sometimes used. Specially
prepared paper is also used in this
way. Paper hands may he used and
an ordinary three-inch drain tile set
down over the plant will be satisfac
tory. Celery properly protected can
be left in the ground until long after
freezing weather or It can be taken up
and placed in boxe® in a dark, cool
cellar.
Lice on Cattle
Lice on cattle cause them a lot of
trouble and cut down the gains during
a feeding season. The best remedy la
to use a coal tar dip or good fly spray.
Borne farmers mb the dip Into the
hide, but this is hard to do on a feed
ing herd. A small hand pump or spray
1® usually
Study Operation of
Farmers’ Elevators
Many Avenues of Possible
Loss Due to Small Capital.
(Frepnted by the United States
cf Agriculture.)
A study of the operation of farmer*'!
elevators throughout the mid weed
grain-growing states is being inadet
by the United States Department of]
Agriculture and the University of]
Minnesota in an effort to bring out!
the methods found to have produced!
success and those which may bavej
been responsible for fuilure.
There are more than 5,000 such ete-t
vntors In the midwest grain-growing*
states. Many avenues of possible lesa
nre open to these elevators, due !■{
part to limited capital, small volume*
of business, and the nature of thej
business Itself, the study has revealed.!
Other causes of financial difficulty:
may he the failure to insure property:
the grain and other merchandise,!
building and equipment; failure t®j
bond officials, bail accounts, failure;
to provide sinking funds to replace,
depreciating property, failure to cot-;
lect full charges for services, failure;
to detect erroneous charges, losses laj
weighing grain, losses from overgrad-|
ing grain, losses from dockage, and
losses from Ineffective hedging.
Preliminary results of the study,
have been prepared In a mimeo
graphed pamphlet, entitled “A Study
of the Operation of Farmers’ Eleva
tors,” copies of which may be ob
tained upon request to the bureau of
agricultural economics, United Stater
Department of Agriculture, Washing-*
ton, D. C.
New Fertilizers Reduce
Freight Bills One-Half
High freight and labor charges h*v®
caused the state agricultural experi
ment stations to develop fertiliser®
which contain no useless substance®.
These high analysis fertilizers, as th*y,
are called, reduce freight bills from
one-fifth to one-lmlf. When all tf®
other handling, hauling, and spreading
operations nre considered, the saving
to the profit side of the farmer’s ledg
er Is not to be scoffed at.
A. W. Blair, professor of agricul
tural chemistry at the New Jersey
State College of Agriculture, give®
some figures to show what n large sav
ing In freight results from buying the
high-analysis fertilizers.
“Sixteen hundred pounds of a 5-10-5
will furnish Just as much plant fo®d
ns 2,000 pounds of a 4-8-4 ; one-flftU
less freight and handling charges.
“Four hundred pounds of a 3-12-3 will
furnish as much plant food as 600
pounds of n 2-8-2; one-third off for
freight and handling.
“One thousand pounds of a 0-12-5
will furnish ns much plant food aa
2,000 pounds of a 3-0-1 % ; a reduction
of one-half in freight and handling
charges.
‘‘There Is a reason for the hlgtv
nnalysls fertilizer; hence, the high*
nnalysis fertilizer has come to stay."
/
It never has paid to feed lice.
• * •
Overconfidence often results In over
throw.
• • •
Good artillery for garden and or
chard—a loaded spray pump.
• • •
You are on the wrong track If yol
use a scrub bull; he may be followed
by a long train of evils.
• •
Horses like pasture at any time, but
It Is not enough by ltseif to keep ap
the strength of work animals. k
• •
Don’t he too sure that your daily
stock will win at the show. Put yor
best animals in training now.
• • *
Sudan grass and millets make good
smother crops, and smothering 1® a
very efficient method of cleaning out
quack.
• • •
Sudan grass should not he sown o>-
til the soil has become thoroughly
warm. Perhaps about the best tlm®
is after corn planting.
* • •
No direct harm Is done by selling
ungraded products, except that yo®
must he content with a low price, aud
probably u smaller market.
• • •
Before making hay while the bur
shines, better call up the farm bureau
office and find how long the weather
man thinks it Is going to shine.
• • •
Bye should he cut when the grain®
are in the early milk stage and before
the beards harden. Cut at this stage,
it makes a bright, dust-free hay.
• • •
Swapping quarters for dollars to,
the way one farmer describes grow
ing legumes; he says he gets a dol
lur in soil improvement for every’
juarter he spend®