Newspaper Page Text
Trimming Details
to Bid for Favor
Forecasting the autumn mode hns
, ome to be one of the favorite pas
ses of midsummer at the exclusive
resorts on the continent, observes a
fashion correspondent In the New
York Herald-Tribune. The clothes
worn at Biarritz, Deauville, Long
champs and other modish environs
of Paris are closely scanned, and the
-lightest Insinuation of something new
is avidly seized upon by the observers,
professional and otherwise, at these
fashionable watering places. Asa
matter of fact, these resorts do ex
ert a surprisingly strong prenatal In
fluence over the lesser details of the
approaching mode —an influence which
will be more than usually potent this
year because of the unusual variety
of styles that the French designers are
displaying.
' There are numerous artistic innova
tions and elaborations, hut there is
no evidence of anew silhouette, al
though indications point toward an
outline more involved than has been
offered in many seasons. Sleeves,
waistline and skirt length are es
sentially unchanged, and If these
Olympic models be any criterion, It is
apparent that the autumn mode will
derive its variation from the intricate
manipulation of trimming details.
Plait, flounce, tunic, plaid fabric and
the ensemble are the dominating fea
tures of the Colombes costumes.
Another manifestation of the urge
toward plaids is seen in a three-piece
costume of Philippe et Gaston, end
consists of a pluid wool dress in beige
tones, accompanied by a beige kasha
coat matching one of the tones of the
plaid. The coat is widely open at the
front and has a shawl collar with
square-cut ends.
For Formal Affairs.
Let it not be understood, however,
that the vogue for plaids extends to
formal clothes. It does not, save
when developed in taffeta and chiffon,
which are worn on dressy afternoon
occasions. At the supplementary for
mal affairs crisp, full-skirted taffeta
models in monotone plaids of rose,
clear yellow and pale green are In evi
dence upon the smartest dressers. Gen
erally, though, the plaid design belongs
to the field of sports clothes, and
where it is not used for the costume it
self it invariably makes its appearance
as a trimming or an accessory. Thus,
a plain beige or white kasha wool coat
moy have a plaid border, either woven
in the cloth or cut from a plaid and
applied in the form of a border. Or
vari-colored soutache braids may be
used to form plaid borders for plain
cloths. This very charming Idea is
distinctly new. Many beautiful braids
woven in plaid design are employed to
give a touch of novelty to demurely
toned suits or dresses. Some women
who consider plaid effects too. striking
for the entire costume adopt them only
for linings.
The plaid hat and the plaid scarf
nre two other Important landscape
notes. The bangkok. woven in plaid
design and either trimmed slightly or
n°t at n!J is accompanied by a wool
scarf, developed in the same plaid or
in n different design with the same
colorings.
The trend toward the ensemble Is
r training momentum at every
Mi 'dering place on the Continent.
,° r ' " benefit of those who do not
"‘-t what an ensemble Is, It is
by the translation of its
nan o. Ensemble is a French word
nionnit’.g together, and an ensemble
c ? is one in which two or more
die component parts are brought
r ';' ’ i T r D' a fabric, color, pattern or
1 which is Identical on each.
• " radical change in autumn styles
5 ‘- 'mated by the Olympic fashions.
Lace Panels Are Much Admired
. T ' le Wembley exhibition also In
's orrrl! >l clothes, but these accept
<; i'lershlp of France and follow
■fr tenets of Paris except for the fab
s 11 a >"e essentially British. Eng
(. 1 •' l nlens, Nottingham laces and
! African feathers express the na
■ 1 -tic fashion tendencies of the
empire.
( * sof Nottingham lace charac-
Me dress which was most ad
r in ,h e exhibit. The pattern of
* eis Picked out with fine beads
net : there is a looped bead
:nis >hing the scallop of the
A large cluster of flowers and
X ! the waistline and a second
X . . n shoulder were the
lr hes of color on the cream
ground of the lace.
T he Youthful Clothes.
may be fleeting, but no one
. PJess it if modiste and con
tinue to cater to the m’s-
j E . . ;Ste of that portion of fem
tl£. r ho cannot understand that the
the 1905 prom has become
X’ . ■ iC in the eyes of the 1924
The war started it—and
and this announcement is bound to
cause disappointment among many
who have confidently expected that fall
would manifest fundamentally changed
fashion tendencies. For them there Is
this consolation. While minor ten
dencies of the mode are often predict
ed before the openings, it is the cus
tom of Paris to be entirely mute con
cerning basic changes until the actual
moment when the new styles are
launched. Which Is possibly the case
in the present instance.
The London Modes.
Since the early days of Vurdon, Ray
and the memorable Dohertys, England
and the social sports have been indis
solubly linked. From this alliance
there has come a type of sportswom
en’s clothes which bears the stamp of
London as clearly as the Jenny or
Lanvin frock carries the mark of Paris.
It is recognizable anywhere, and it is
Flesh Colored Crepe de Chine Cos
tume, Chic Sports Model.
differentiated from the French sport
frock in that it has a distinctly more
bristling, active atmosphere. A glance
at the Britisli Empire exhibition at
Wembley emphasizes this pure Eng
lish sports clothes strain despite the
fact that the models shown are !he
joint contribution of every section of
the British empire, from South Africa
to Nottingham.
Flannel, cretonne, English and
Scotch woolens nnd jerseys in many
shades and designs are the principal
sports fabrics seen at the exhibition.
The typical frock is cut on simple
lines and Is distinguished by either
a complete absence or a minimum of
trimming. There is nc attempt at elab
oration of details and, for once, Paris
is entirely forgotten in a collection of
athletic models which express the ac
tive English sportswoman and not her
passive sisters from other climes.
Sports blazers of flannel, trimmed
with brass buttons and cut on man
nish lines, are particularly effective on
links, court or In the galleries. They
may be used at the end of the game
by the player, or they can be worn In
cooler weather by the spectator. Cre
tonne coats and Jumpers are hlso In
evidence and they serve the same pur
poses as the blazer.
since the cessation of hostilities the
urge toward youthful clothes has rap
idly gained momentum, until last sea
son every new design, whether created
for sub-deb or dowager, was motivated
by the ideal of eternal youth.
Within certain limits this tendency
is distinctly praiseworthy—no one
wishes for a return of the times when
mature women clothed themselves In
sober, straight-laced garments and
then settled down to become passive
spectators to the end of their days, out
when fashion sends forth grandmoth
ers with short skirts, short hair and
the much-acclaimed natural silhouette.
It is obvious that something has
blurred the esthetic vision of the crea
tors of the mode.
Anew mode is in making. In a short
time the Paris autumn collections will
be ready for the eyes of a waiting
world, it is the custom of the 'rnfor
tant designers to seek inspiration from
historic epochs of the past, and cur
suggestion is that they refer to the
much-disdained Victorian period for
the fall styles of 1924.
THE DANIELSVILLE MONITOR, DANIELSVILLE, GEORGIA.
FAT CAT
Me-ow, me-ow, me-ow,” said the cat
All around It seemed were pigeons
and birds and the
cat’s green eyes
- looked at them
_ He moved up
to them very
slowly and tried
to catch them,
but they were on
the watch-out for
jf him and they al
ways got away.
Sometimes h e
T *\\ would follow a
V* \ J member of the
\. Ay family when he
. hadn’t an engage
"'***' rcA ment to watch the
They Always Got blrds ’ ~ .
Awav And {t the fnm ‘
T ANARUS" 11 y saw him watch
ing the birds they took him into the
house and gave him a big meal so that
he would be sure not to be hungry.
Well, the days passed along and the
cat was watching the birds early one
morning.
No one was there to stop him. He
had awakened very early so as not to
feel satisfied as he always felt after
he had had his breakfast.
lie wanted to feel hungry and to
catch birds.
Ah, he would spring upon them.
“Me-ow, me-ow, me-ow, this will be
exciting,” he said. And his green eyes
looked wicked and sly.
"Me-ow, me-ow, me-ow, this will be
worth while,” he said again.
Ills green eyes looked even more
wicked than ever, and oh, how sly
they looked.
“Me-ow, me-ow, me-ow, this will be
great," he said. "I am all alone to
do as I wish. No one will stop me.
No one will tempt me with liver and
bacon.
“Me-ow, me-ow, me-ow, this will be
splendid."
And his green eyes looked as though
he would have a fine, wicked morning
catching birds.
“Me-ow, me-ow, me-ow, tills will be
fun. I shall catch them soon now."
But he could not catch a single bird.
No, not a single one could he catch,
lie tried and he tried nnd he tried.
“Me-ow, me-ow, me-ow,” he said. “I
am out of practice. I must have more
engagements by myself of this kind
and then I will get into practice.”
Again and again he tried but not a
bird could be catch.
“Me-ow, me-ow, me-ow,” he com
plained. He was becoming quite angry
now.
No longer did he feel peaceful and
happy ns he had when first he had
come out this morping.
His green eyes looked ungry now.
lie was angry with himself nnd yet
It was no one’s fault except his own.
Well, possibly It was the fault of
the family. They always gave him so
much food. They always watched out
for the birds.
They always drove him away when
he was looking at the birds.
They always made him wear a col
lar with many little bells upon it nnd
it wa6 so hard not to move those little
bells.
But it was his own fault for hav
ing eaten so much of the food they
gave him.
He bad grown _
too fat to catch
birds. That was -Jl
the trouble.
He was too big
and fat for wick- " V
ed fun such as / V i
he bad planned to ij
have. ■— A Vj
“Me-ow, me-ow, IC,
me-ow, this Is GTZSv - *
dread f u 1,” h e
Before long the
family were ralfmr^
awake and they
found him watch-
Ing the birds He Cou)d Not He)p
“Oh, naughty but Eat it.
cat,” they said.
“tome and eat your breakfast.”
They gave him his breakfast then
and it was so good he could not help
but eat It.
“I should go without eating for
awhile,” he said. “But not yet, not
yet.
“Soon I will give up eating for a
little so I will be a good bird catcher
once more.”
But food ready for him was very
pleasant. And he purred happily.
Aids Scientific Research
Sir Alfred Yarrow, a practical engi
neer and captain of Industry, recently
gave nearly $500,000 for the further
ance of scientific research In England.
Daddy’s
Eveixma
Fairy Tale
ay ARY GRAHAM BONNER
—■ .. .. comic*? it vimiN New*** um.on -■ .ii -
Screenings Good
for Live Stock
Undesirable Farm Product,
Consisting Principally of
Vai’ious Weed Seeds.
(Prepared by tne United State* Department
of Agriculture.)
There are n dozen reasons why
screenings should be separated on the
farm nnd fed to live stock, says the
United States Department of Agricul
ture. Screenings are an undeslruble
farm product, consisting principally of
weed seeds, cracked nnd shrunken
kernels of grain, chaff, broken stems,
nnd straws, dirt and other foreign
material, and often constitute 10 to 20
per cent of the grain as it comes from
the thresher. They should not, how
ever, be regarded ns a waste, but
should be turned to valuable nccount
by feeding them to live stock.
Gives Screenings Away.
When screenings are sold with the
grain they are classed ns docknge, nnd
the grain farmer actually gives them
away, because his grain Is docked ac
cording to the proportion of screen
ings it contains. This loss to the grain
farmer mounts to huge figures when
lurge sections are considered. In 1023,
for example, nearly 12,000,000 bushels
of screenings were produced, threshed
and marketed ns dockage In the states
of North Dakota, South Dakota, Min
nesota and Montana. The sum of
$675,000 was paid by the farmers of
these states for threshing their screen
ings or docknge, and SSOO,OOO was paid
to the railroads for hauling It to the
terminal markets. Millions of dollars’
worth of good feed was thus given
away. The grain farmer was the loser.
The average screenings are more
nearly equal to oats in composition
than any other common feed. Heavy
screenings from which the chaffy
material hns been removed are nearly
equal to com, wheat, or barley In the
percentages of the various nutrients.
SPECIALISTS MAKE STUDY OF
POISONOUS CAMAS PLANT
It Affects Sheep More Than
Any Other Animal.
(Prepared by the United State* Department
of Agriculture.)
Specialists of the U-oited Mates
Department of Agriculture engaged
In the study of plants poisonous to
live stock have recently completed a
study of the meadow death enmas,
known scientifically os Zygadenus
venenosus, which they say Is one of
four species most likely to be encoun
tered by stockmen using the western
range. The other species are grassy
death camas, foothill death camas,
and mountain death camas. The spe
cies known as “meadow" is character
istic of the states bordering on the
Pacific ocean. It nffects sheep more
than any other class of animals, but
horses are poisoned by It and some
times killed. While It is poisonous
to cattle few ore Injured under runge
conditions, and swine are probably
not harmed at all because they
promptly expel the plant by vomiting
If they do eat it
This species of death camas ha.i
about the same poisoning power as
the grassy death camas and these
two are three times as toxic ns the
foothill variety and seven times as
toxic as the mountain death camas.
Although it takes about the same
quantity of meadow camas t : grassy
camas to produce symptoms of poison
Ing It takes much more of It to pro
duce death. Grassy death camas Is
the most dangerous, followed by
Soy Beans Prefer Heavy
Soil and Much Moisture
Soy beans prefer the heavier, dark
soils and will gtand a great deal of
moisture, but if this soil remains wet
during the season it should be drained.
The soy beans should be properly in
oculated, which is best done by mixing
three or four quarts of soil secured
from a well-inoculated field with each
bushel of the seed. Prepare the soil
as for corn and sow any time after
corn planting, using an early variety.
It is believed that the early plantings
do better, however, and we would ad
vise that this field be planted as soon
as the soil can be gotten ready. If the
soil Is sour it should be limed and if it
has not been fertilized recently it
should receive about 100 pounds of
acid phosphate per acre.
The wet weather this Bpring has
been mighty good for potatoes and
will be Just as good for late blight.
The growers who have been spraying
with bordeaux this season have been
taking out a good kind of insurance
•gainst blight.
More than 3,500,000 lambs could have
been fed with the wheat screenings
that were wasted In the four spring
wheat states In 1023 forming the en
tire grain ration. The resulting in
crease In weight of the lambs, at 12
cents per pound, would have brought
$8,500,000 to the farmers. The spring
wheat farmers who cleaned their mar
ket wheat on the farm In 1023 gained
over 5 cents per bushel as a result of
the cleaning.
Can Remove Screenings.
When a former who grows little or
no grain wants to feed screenings, he
must pay high prices for them in a
ready-mixed feed, or must purchase
them of the elevator or mill that has
separated them. The grain farmer, on
the other bund, can separate them at
the thresher or granary and feed them
as n by-product of his farm. He pays
no freight or middleman’s commission.
By means of a cleaning machine, the
screenings can be removed from wheat
or rye at a cost of 2 or 3 cents per
hushel. A number of these cleaning
machines will be in operation In the
spring-wheat states this year as a re
sult of the work of the United States
Department of Agriculture In showing
the feeding value of this product for
all kinds of live stock and the practi
cability nnd economy of separating It
and feeding It on the farm.
Killing Wild Garlic
A successful method of eradicating
wild garlic lb bv spraying with orchard
henting oil or wasiO motor oil, which
should be easily procured from garage*.
This waste oil should be diluted with
kerosene until It Is thin enough to per
mit spraying with a small pressure
sprayer, but not so thin that It will
readily run off the plants. First, strnln
the oil through several thicknesses of
cheesecloth and then apply It as a fine
mist.
meadow death euuias and foothill
death camas which are about equally
potent In producing death.
Tho results of this Investigation,
which was carried on by 0. D. Alarsh
and A. 11. Clawson of the bureau of
animal Industry, hare been published
In Department Bulletin No. 1240 which
may be had upon request by those In
terested in the detulls of the Investiga
tion.
Legumes Have High Need
for Application of Lime
Best returns are secured from lime,
by using it for legume crops such as
alfalfa or the clovers, says P. F.
Schowengerdt, extension soils special
ist of the Missouri College of Agri
culture. This Is true because the
legumes have a higher need for lime
than any other farm crops grown in
ibis section and because the nitrogen
fixing bacteria associated with these
crops require a sweet soil In which to
do their work.
When lime Is applied and the
growth (f these soli building crops
made more successful the succeeding
<-rop yields are also Increased. If,
on the other hand, the lime were ap
plied fur grain crops alone the return
would be much smaller.
Wherever farmers apply lime on
wheat land In the next fall or winter
they should, by all means, sow clover
the next spring, for In doing so they
will take advantage of their best
chance for a profit from liming.
EkPMIACTSfr
Failure to think helps some men to
succeed In falling.
* *
Some men can’t take advice, because
all their time is spent in giving it.
• * •
In packing your fruit remember that
50 good apples can never make a sin
gle bad one look good, but one bad
apple can spoil the sale of 50 good
ones.
• • •
It’s possible to increase the potato
crop by spraying. Bordeaux mixture
with lead arsenate added will pre
vent late blight and get the potato bug
also. Spray oftener if the season la
cool and wet, than during dry weather.
• • •
"Forests do not Improve by disuse
any more than a man’s muscles grow
stronger In idleness.” Tlte farm wood
lot is a small forest nnd will repay tha
owner who tnkes care of It. Get bulle
tin F 159 from the state college af
Ithaca, N. Y.