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CHOPSTICK DINNERS.
A FAD WITH WOULD BE BOHEMIANS
IN NEW YORK.
Chinese Restaurants There Tolerate
a Free and Easy Etiquette, and Ev
erybody Does Just About as He or
Sbe Pleases.
In the last few years a surprisingly
large number of Chinese restaurants
have made their appearance in up town
districts in New York. The tawdry
outward decorations of red and blue
lights and huge gilt Chinese characters
are in every case the same. The same,
too, are the unattractive entrances, the
walls decorated with colored pictures
of pretty Chinese girls and marvelous
' specimens of landscapes, the little ta
bles covered with white oilcloth, the
general dilapidation of the establish
ment. Nothing about them ^eems at
tractive, and yet these places thrive,
and their number increases with aston
ishing rapidity. The reason is not far
to seek if one is at all familiar with the
facts. There are several characteris
tics of the Chinese restaurant which
recommend it highly to certain classes
and seem to indicate that its popularity
is not a mere fad.
In the first place it should be under
stood that most of these places are
really what they are supposed to be,
eating houses carried on under Chinese
management. TJie- cooks are invaria
bly true Celestials, and in only a few
cases are the proprietors Americans.
The food is prepared, therefore, accord
ing to the most approved methods of
the Middle Kingdom, with the result
that in cheapness and savoriness (if
you like it) it can easily outclass simi
lar places run by American cooks. The
Chinese is a master of the art of mak
ing palatable dishes out of next to
nothing or rather a little of everything.
Not even the French cook can rival
him. The insipidity of cheap . chop-
houses and the sameness of the dairy
lunch counters are thus escaped by
frequenters of these restaurants. More
over, in spite of appearances the food
is prepared in an extremely cleanly
manner. No one is debarred from en
tering the kitchen, and a visit thither
sends one back with renewed appetite
to the untidy eating room. So many
who while possessed of a small share
of this world’s goods still affect “sport
iness” frequent the restaurant for its
cheapness and grow to enjoy the highly
flavored dishes.
There is also a free and easy atmos
phere about the Chinese eating house
which attracts many would be “Bohe
mians” as well as a goodly share of a
class below the lowest grades of the
city’s many graded Bohemia. Visitors
loll about and talk and laugh loudly.
Wheu the waiter is wanted, some one
emits a shrill yell which brings an an
swering whoop from the kitchen, fol
lowed sooner or later by a little Chi
nese at a jog trot. Any one who feels
like it may. stroll into the kitchen and
try a little pigeon English on the cook.
The proprietor will teach anybody to
use the chopsticks and roar with laugh
ter over tl*e failures of the novice. Ev
erybody does as be or she pleases with
in certain very elastic bounds. The
limit is reached sooner in some places
than in others, for while some of the
houses are before midnight at least
perfectly well conducted others are of
more than questionable respectability.
It is curious and interesting to note
that under American management the
tone of these places is lower than when
the Chinese are in sole control.
These new up town places are not so
good, either in a moral or a culinary
way, as those down in Chinatown. It
is usual to speak as if Mott and Pell
streets were the city’s sink of iniquity,
and so they are in some respects, but
there are no Chinese restaurants in the
neighborhood as disreputable as one or
two up town. The clientele of the
down town places is above suspicion as
a rule. Chinese drop in for their meals,
and dwellers from up town come either
from curiosity or because they have
learned to like good Chinese cooking.
Up town the bills of fare are more lim
ited. “Yockaman,” “chop suey” and
“chowman” are the pieces de resist
ance. They answer the purpose cer
tainly, for 25 cents’ worth of some
kinds of chop suey served with rice
will make a toothsome dish for two
people. Tea is served free of charge,
and the quantity is not limited. But
no oue should judge the Celestials’ cu
linary skill by thesgfup town houses.
Many of the guests in these restau
rants come regularly. Frequently men
AM women come with pails to buy the
food and take it home. Negroes are in
disproportionately large numbers. They
seem to like the Chinese, and indeed
the noise in the kitchen reminds one of
the similar condition of southern kitch
ens under negro management. How
ever solemn the Chinese may seem to
be in public, he is a cheerful creature
in his own kitchen. Talk and laughter,
even music during “off” hours, float out
to the dining room. All the servants
seem ready to break into smiles at the
smallest provocation. They are always
ready to exchange jests with their pa-
care what happens so long as he is left
unmolested. He likes everything to be
slipshod and merry.—New York Trib
une.
Victoria and Dickens.
Literary celebrities, as a rule, were
not those who attained to any high
degree of personal favor at the hands
of Queen Victoria, but she paid Charles
Dickens a delicate compliment. Dick
ens, who, by the way, in his youthful
days was devoured by a grand passion
for the youthful queen, was invited
when at the climax .of his fame to
dine at Windsor castle. He was after
dinner presented by the queen with a
'copy of her book “Tour In the. High
lands,” and on the fly leaf was in
scribed in her own hand this sentence:
“From the humblest to the most dis
tinguished author in England.” The
queen afterward showed many favors
to'Lord Tennyson, but even in making
him a peer of the realm she did not
bestow as great a compliment.
Trafalgar Hats.
The year 1805 was a memorable one,
as on Oct. 21 was fought and gained
the battle of Trafalgar, and then, as
now, fashion complimented heroes by
devising toilets named in their honor.
So Nelson was commemorated by a
hat—the “Trafalgar”—and every wo
man and child adopted the wondrous
structure, which would outdo even
the headgear of the present day, for
these hats were of enormous width
and breadth, something of the size of a
round table, and so loaded with plumes
that the wearers must have looked all
hat.—Gentleman’s Magazine.
A Good Runner.
“Hello, hello! Is this the gas com
pany’s office?”
“Yes; what is it?”
“When do the entries for the next
race open?” ,
“We don’t know anything about the
races. This is the gas office.”
“Correct; but 1 thought you could tell
me.’
“Why, what do you want to know
for?”
“Oh, nothing particular. I have a
gas meter I would like to enter, that’s
all.”—Tit-Bits.
Question of Ownership.
“Need of counsel? Come up and let
me introduce you to my lawyer.”
“Your lawyer? Do you own a law
yer?”
“I—er—well, no, certainly not. He
owns me.”—New York Press.
Even the highest personages in Tur
key are not exempt from suspicion.
Their movements are watched and re
ported to the palace by an army of
spies who swarm In every quarter.
Belgium holds the world’s record in
canals, having 535 miles, which carry
8,000,000 tons a year.
This signature is on every box of the genuine
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CASTORIA,
Bears the s> $ Kind Vou Have Always Bouglfc
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impertinence. The Chinese doesn’t
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EIGHT YEARS OLD.
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Pour ful Quarts of this Pine Old, Pure
RYE WHISKEY,
$3.50
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EIGHT YEARS OLI>.
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.Quart, Gallon.
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Elkridge Bourbon 40 150
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Melwood Pure Bye 50 190
Monogram Rye 55 2 00
McBrayer Rye., 60 225
Baker’s A AAA 65 240
O. O. P. (Old Oscar Pepper) 65 240
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Mount Vernon, 8 years old 100 350
Old DillingerRye, 10years old, 125 400
The above are only a few brands.
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All other Soods by tho gallon, such as Corn
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The AJtmayer & Flateau
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606, 508, 510, 512 Fourth Street, near
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MACON, GEORGIA.
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COFFEE
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