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PAGE TWO
>—MAGAZINE SECTION
Moreftrmieri
The Very Latest Developments of
the New Fashions Described
by Lady Duff-Gordon.
LADY DUFF-GORDON, the famous “Lucile ’ of
London, and foremost creator of fashions in the
worid. writes each week the fashion article for
this newspaper, presenting all that is newest and best in
styles for well-dressed women.
Lady Dufi-Gordon’s new Paris establishment brings
her into close touch with that centre of fashion. j
Lady Duff-Gordon's American establishment is at
No. 17 West Thirty-sixth street. New York City. I
By Lady Duff-Gordon (“Lucile”'} I
{WANT to show you to-day the
very latest development of the
pennier gown. The subject Is
Important, as this pannier treatment
of the upper skirt is to be the real
feature of fashionable dresses for
this Summer
The accompanying illustration
gives a good idea of the lines of this
newest design in,the,pannier mode.
The gown proper is of white shot
gray taffeta, the upper portion being
worn over a long, square-cut waist
coat of black satin, whose black and
white edges just fail to meet in front.
The waistcoat extends downward
nearly to the bottom of the pannier
fold, and is quite smooth and severe
in its close-fitting lines.
The draped skirt under the vest
and panuier is very light, long and
narrow and is open at the feet, 1 he
tight sleeves a:e long, extending
oi er writti, and hands The pan
niered bodice is confined just below
the bust by a black and w hite striped
sash The collars of bodice and
waistcoa; a:e low aud absolutely
plain, save for the black and white
edging ' * th- latter
The c<*«tume i> set off by a turban
of purpie and black with an aigrette
tn front Yon wii notice, 1 think,
and be pleased with the harmony of
tne lines—the long, tight sleeves and
/ the long, closely draped skirt, with
the glimpse yf the severely smooth
and straight black satin waistcoat
The plainness of the low-cut neck to
tn keeping with the general harmony
of the creation
Also I am showing you here a new
afternoon dress, the design of which
likewise considers the pannier feat
ure somewhat modified It is of shot
blue and purple taffeta. The skirt,
narrow at the feet, is very full at
ths back—what is called the ' new
look."
The bottom of the skirt has a
short slit at the ankle, and is held by
a row of small buttons reaching up
to the full-draped back. There ts a
little coat, short and cutaway, with a
narrow band of embroidery just
above the hem IJnder'it is a sash
at the waist with embroidery in
front
A white hat with black crown sur
mounted by a black feather and
black and white boots are worn with
this original and attractive afternoon
gown
The photograph shows a charming
afternoon costume of |>ervauche blue
tussor, both coat and skirt, with
braid embroidery on the breast and
on each side of the front of the skirt.
A purple hat. broad and low-crowned,
with blue Softer trimming, and n ,
large parasol n harmonising coion,
complete the costume
The craze for daring color es
•ect is also resulting tn the ap <
pearance on many of the new
«straw hats of clusters of ane- "
tnones —those beautiful blossoms,
which even of natures own tints
are faithfully reproduced, provide
such glorious shadings of purple
' and pink, yellow and mauve and
so on through at least a dozen dis
fereut shadings* A bunch of these
anemones I saw fastened against
the side of a purree straw hat.
with a prim little bow of purple
and white silk, and the result wai
quite admirable, while they also
look ft ell on a black hat. whose
underlining of velvet repeats oue
of their many deep and lovely
shades of purple. I infinitely pre
fer such artistic discretion in the
use cf floral trimmings to another
new and elaborate scheme, which
□n the wide spreading ribbon
niched brirr of a black hat arranges
long-stalked sprays of forget-me
nots 1n starfish-like groups between
clusters of full-blown roses and
leaves, both flowers being eventual
ly clustered together in the form of
a high aigrette nt me side
Indeed, I notice —and. on behalf
of the genera! public, deplore—the
appearance of many of these enor
mous floral aigrettes, some of them
being set upright directly in the front
of the hat. and. as a matter of fan.
quite beautifully made, with au
equally lavish and live.-, allowance
of buds and b esoms tit t .-■• back a«
tn the front. But this perfection of
finish ts hardly likely to receive th?
appreciation which it perhaps de
serves. seeing that 'or .ts full real
ization a position directly behind
the blossom-burdened hat is neces
sary, and anyone thus placed is more
than likely to resent the resulting
restriction of their view lu fact,
matters —and modes—are getting
rather serious, for while daytim->
functions will have to be viewed
through a barricade of blossoms, the
occupants of the stalls at the theater
or opera at night will have to dodg
an equally formidable array of up
standing and outspreading aigrette-,
some of which uprise to a height <>' I
at least twelve inches above their
wearer's brows, which are banded
about with closely massed brililan:.-
er some other gems in keeping with ‘
. ..
> the somewhat barbaric effect of these I
s adornments.
t And here I must confess to acer
; tain responsibility for the new
I adornment and annoyance For
just such a headdress did 1 intro
duce lu "The Count of Luxembourg,
when Dasie Irving took up Lily
1 Elsie’s part, and having thus given
public and convincing proof of its
1 exceeding effectiveness made it.-
adoption on the other side of the
: footlights a foregone conclusion and
; certainty In the new Gaiety piece
too, you know, I have added aigretp
head dresses to a tew of the evening
gowns, of which 1 have already sent
i you full details, but also I must it
justice to myself aud out of cin
, sideration to the play-going public
proclaim my display of an equ.i
number of turbans, which ar
swathed more closely than the ave
, age head of hair.
There are many other noveltie
from Paris, too, which are of equall
—and perhaps you will say con
mendably—modest shape, some v
these consisting, for example, of
network of diamonds and cryst
beads, which upholds the outstandiu
coil of hair just above the neck, an
then finishes off over the ears "wit
big bosses of diamonds and pear
from which hangs a deep and shl
Ing fringe of crystal beads. Or th,-
again you cau, if you so wish, hide
Above Is the Very aM| ‘ aK*'
of the Upp-r Skirt WH* ' " '*
graph Is an Vtemoon i w>
¥ Wfc
£<4 IQiWra
wSSSBw j iA'/fS®
O|
Q»v<
- ’ F 2HOfSi <• BR.
/if'j| «wK dresses Still another scheme con-
sists of an enormously wide and
turban-like swathing of yellow crepe
<aPl t ; Ww de chine, between whose soft folds
- *7—37 ~ i BL at the a sleek smoothness of
*’ JSt t M® black lace will show up most es-
‘•&T SgL _ h fectively. This has for fastening
» ffiSpAA?' ""wamn " '**>!&, o||e| at one s,de a sreat topax. rimmed
/ SsEst 7 isbili " ound with dull gold, while the
I / <v77Y sPHs handkerchief ends of the crepe de
'Ji’S \\\ chine, heavily fringed with topax
- l&l v\ a " d cryst a’ beads fall onto the
«■-> <'l s J ■ .. . neck. Also dedicated to the dark
» _y> Ming \| i>: woman (and let me hope beauty, for
t? , ', i’ s severe 'y simple style would be
A ‘J rather tryin S to “y les ® favored
( I \ ' fwW iW* wearer) is a circlet of corals, with
Y7 YIW IWvW one huß * cabochon, which is meant
'■ “-. 5 ', ||LW< to come directly In the centre of the
I Z=» SiSH I BQ9BB hpad and from which a fringe of
k wS "iSSBk i SB9I little coral and gold beads falls onto
• BgZ i gKW?S t ' le forehead, so that the final bead
48)-v/Tth ' wB mHSI ls ust on a ,evel with the eyebrows.
'jg«fc£l'S | the prevalence of these Eastern look-
<731 I # ' 7j4w? HKdE ins ornaments being, of course, due
/T'!l I St-TyUsR 1 I O&§8 t 0 the coni bined Oriental fabrics and
/t, l 3 I I aMHfiMff effects in evening gowna
<1 * qfljffSErya But you see. in this, aed. Indeed.
/ 1 h jf issl' ,n P ractieal ‘y every other detail of
», ej >v dress nowadays, there is so much
•, WA 1 i \ /fl 1 I i variety that every one can be surely
« 'V /l " \ \ and well suited.
''X V'■/ * / ’ ' ' 1 And now 1 w!!! elTe m - T last w ord»
'sx\ / I "->;■** • i this week to the chronicling of one
' \,; i I s<?'■■-<» °f ’bose novelties of the •‘freak”
I« . ' ' ’ » » - order, which every one will want
/ ‘ / t 0 discuss - but few will dare, or
l/‘ / / -''*’ A ,' t .7 wish, to wear I refer to the
/ly jl kimono wrap, made in the towelling,
// « BRhu / *lj which has already been responsible
ft itj ■■ v for lhe entire working of manv of
/ * //'y YRSL lh ® newest and smartest utilor
*. suits and for the trimming—
j/i 4/ \ in the way of collar,
4i 'g/ " ' and facings—of many others, and
lx* JT . —which, in both of these aspects, has
J . , , proved itself well worthy of the new
. \.m_ your head—-but not the halr-cvm- , roralnence . But ln th!s C(Mt fom
4J pletely with a cap, whose opanwora ; d!n vivid cerise coloring, with an
M Shln: s* «” M ‘ res - ar * wor^d ln interwoven and bold design in
\i Y 1 alternate diamonds and bugles, wmle „ Slt ts) ferm „ lt
V baugtug low down over the ears are sso abso;nte i y suggwri v e rhe
L half a dozen festoons of the <ame bfc wr tha . T Cl|nnot COTleeive
-J glittering things. these Eastern gertous!y ndoptlnj , R
... . „ ... looking ear ornaments being indeed —x. h ■ . „
Lucile Afternoon Orcts, quite a notable and rather a fas- 7 , **
Showing h nil SlrirJ at the Ba-iC. cinatlng feature of the new bead- l ' E res
THE ATLANTA GEORGIAN AND NEWS: SATURDAY, MAY 18, 1912.
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—1 M I— l
ChamberlinJohnsoriDnßose Company
Atlanta New York Paris
Mahogany Furniture
There is a certain respect attached’to,
a certain glamour surrounding, the word
Mahogany—justly and—unjustly.
For—Do vou know there are some
thirty-two grades of mahogany? Between
the two extremes there is a vast differ
ence in the grain and markings and
weight of the wood—so much so that ma
hogany in itself does not mean quality
nearly so much as is commonly under
stood.
San Domingo mahogany is the peer
of them all. It is the mahogany of his
tory. Its beauty is unrivaled. It is very,
very rare nowadays. It grows on the,
mountain tops of the island of Haiti and
has been known to bring at the auctions
in London, where practically all mahog
any is sold, as much as $5.00 a square foot
one inch thick, in the rough log as it was
brought from the mountains. Such is
San Domingo mahogany—and yet there
is another grade from the same island that
unscrupulous dealers call by the same
name—this is from the lowlands, the val
leys; it has none of the sturdiness, the
weight, the grain, the exquisite markings
of the former.
We know of but one maker in Amer
ica who uses the rightly called San Domin
go mahogany—and he confines himself en
tirely to bedroom furniture. Some of his
best work mav be seen here in our stock
now.
But about the cheaper grades—some
mahogany is really nothing more than
African cedar—cigar box wood—and has
just so much weight. Strangely enough,
it takes a very high polish and often
brings unwarranted prices—just because
it is mahogany.
•
Some grades of birch are far su
perior. We recently explained this to a
customers who was bent on having ma
hogany dining room chairs. We urged a
fine birch chair veneered with a good
grade of mahogany—showed how much
heavier and more substantial the latter
was to the customer’s common sense sat
isfaction. and the sale was made. And
we know we did the customer a real ser
vice.
All of which means that when you
start out to buy mahogany furniture, learn
what grade you are buying. Maybe
every furniture man can not tell you.
WE CAN AND WILL.
Chamberlin Johnson=Dußose Company