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Two “Lucile’ Afternoon Gowns, the One on the Left Being of Mauve Foularde, the Skirt Expressing the
Pannier Idea. The Sleeves Have a Slight Puff Betweeh Elbow and Shoulder. The Gown on the Right Is
Deep Flounced Tambour Lace Edged with Soft Pink Satin and Trimmed with Rosettes, of Same. The
Coat Is of Mauve Taffeta, the Edges Being Trimmed with Ruches of the Silk.
LADY DUFF-GORDON, the famous “Lucile" of London,
and foremost creator of fashions in the world, writes each
week the fashion article for this newspaper, presenting all
that is newest and best in styles for well-dressed women. “
Lady Duff-Gordon's new Pans establishment bring her into
close touch with that centre of fashion.
Lady Duff-Gordon’s American establishment it at No. 17
West Thirty-sixth street. New York Qty.
By Lady Duff-Gordon (“Lucile”)
NOW that there is a lull be
tween seasons—Spring’s end
and Summer's dawn I
would like to talk to you a
Mt about the Importance of making
your own fashions. By that I mean
the importance of studying your
selves, what looks best on you, what
lines are best suited to bring out
your best When you have really
found that out, then adapt the fash
ions to your studies and your dis
coveries.
That is the lesson I would like to
really teach every woman —the ne
cessity of conforming the fashions to
herself, and not herself to the fash
kme The first is the intelligent
thing, and places dress where it be
longs, as aframe for woman's loveli
ness; the second is the follcw-the
sheep way and makes the frame
everything. And this Is not only bad
taste, but bad dressing.
The pannier skirts are a good ex
ainple, I think the pannier is a very
charming mode. 3ut it all depends
npon who wears It and how it la
worn whether It shall be charming
or grotesque. It is an Individual
fashion. That is its first danger.
A fashion that is tn itself marked
and unusual should be studied care
fully If a woman has a pronounced
individuality of her own she runs
more danger in wearing an Indi
vidual fashion, unless she studies It
carefully, than any other woman, be
cause two pronounced Individualities
are apt to clash. One of Ruben’s
women would not look well in a pan
nier, but one of Watteau’s dainty
Marquisees or shepherdesses de luxe
would. On the other hand, a woman
w ho would not look well in. what I
eaR a normal pannier skirt, might
look very well in a modification of
It And there are some women who
under no circumstances,'should wear
a pannier.
If fahston decreed that every
woman should wear a red hat, think
of the many women whose com
plexion. the color of their skin, the
color of their eyes and hair, would
make them look perfectly grotesque
in red hats! Why, then, should
these women wear such hats, even
if fashion should decree it?
To slavishly follow any fixed uni
form mode, either in the shape, the
arrangement, or the color of a gown,
is just as bad as the red hats.
I hope later on to make a full
article upon taste and the importance
of studying your own fashions, but
this will do for a beginning. I will
now describe the gowns on this page.
. The beautiful picture gown of
which I am sending you a
photograph is <of shot ribbed
ninon in green and brown. The fichu
and apron are of cream old world
embroidery. The sash is made of
soft striped muslin pompadour pat
tern bound with faded mauve.
Hat of fine white crinoline with
bow and ends banging down the
back of mauve ribbon with black
pilot edge and a bunch of pale yel
low and silk flowers at side. Lined
underneath with same muslin as
sash. The parasol is of the new pa
goda shape and is of white taffeta
with a deep band of the fancy mus
lin which forms the sash and lines
the hat and is finished wdth a little
ruche of mauve ribbon.
The two afternoon gowns shown tn
the other photograph will next be
described. The one on the left is of
mauve foulard. The back of ths
skirt Is exceedingly pretty being very
softly draped and just expresses the
pannier effect low down cn the hips.
The bodice has tbo long sloping
shoulders with slightly puffed sleeves
THF ATLANTA GEORGIAN AND NEWS. SATUT?D.\Y. .TUNE 8. 1912.
put In below the shoulder and ending
at the elbow with a soft ruche of
lace.
1 i Woman Cannot Look Her Best Without |
£ Qjgjk S
i A Corset that is Absolutely Correct |
***’ r '” l^f ’i' li<»\v true to fashion’s dii’tfitps voiir gown may ho nut, no matter how well or how
ma ' tailored, unless the corset is right, your gown can not be right. S
I \ ( And just here, the Rich Corsetieres will help you ;
*2 \ N'>t ° n '' t,lP ' V °" ,O SP,Prt '" rspt - von P re “f pr ’ I'”* * ivp von 1P mnf ' p '
’ I• \\ bring out the best lines of the figure. They will fit yon in a corset with an individuality—a corset JJ--
M \ a ' ' ,fPn Hn< l t ps t p< J- There’s not an individual figure that we cart not fit perfectly, JL
| bringing out to a nicetv those fashion-plate lines that todav are the admiration of the world, mi
.% f rvy ' . s
> ab i I Many New Models Are Being Shown St
I Reallv high-art corsets f silk, beautifully trimmed with Baby Irish or ribbon eorsets
II il||| | j that are cleverly tailored -hand-linished to give grace to the figure ami assure absolute comfort Jj
I ||j ffi I 4 to the wearer. Bridal cornets, too, in manv models $12.00 to $25.00. •£,
| y M. Rich & Bros. Co. J
CepyrUht 1912, by American-Fxamlner Great Britain Rights Reserved.
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A White Satin Evening Gown with IwSiS 3
I Overdress of White Chiffon. One Wmß ~'~ , ? <7-«f«K i*
of ‘ Lucile's” Newest Pannier Effect 1 i7i7''T? ®"'
Creations. (On the Right) A Very iSW-IBcgf *
Smart 1 Lucile” Afternoon Gown in 7r
Soft Apricot-Colored Silk Faille. a .(/ wj|b
it Is Trimmed with Mauve and »'" F <<
Gold Lace. The Hat i, of th. F I f
Cocker Type and Is of Mauve Satin ' r’j7'f ; WA*7i %lOsr
WYouShaild gg ■
MakeW Own
fashions.'
Lady Duff-Gordon Discusses the : tHIWU.M
i Importance of Studying YouF Own In- - ' *
dividuality and Dressing Accordingly- A “Lucile” Picture Gown of Green and Brown Shot Ribbed
CMC Ninon. The Fichu and Apron Are of Cream,
Some l\ew Summer Uowns oid world Embroidery.
The collar Is of hand embroidered
voile. Worn with it is a hat of cream
straw, draped in cream lace with
black ribbon around the crown, with
one long streamer hanging from
the back and a beautiful La France
rose resting ph the brim.
The ether gown shown in the pic
ture is mode o’s deep flounced tam
bour lace edged with soft pink satin
and trimmed with rosettes of same.
The chief feature of this costume,
however, is the mauve taffeta coat
worn with ft. It has swallow tails,
the seams are piped and th? edge
trimmed with beautifully made
ruches of the silk
The little bonnet worn with it is
of pale blue taffeta lined with pink,
trimmed with a spray of beautiful
silk flowers tied under the chin with
black ribbon velvet.
Another very smart afternoon gown
is shown in one of the sketches. It
i« of apricot soft silk faille. The
tunic is made to stand away from the
long, straight underskirt and the
revers show e lining of gold and
mauve lace. The bodice at the waist
is carried out with the same effect
and falls over a belt of the same
mauve and gold lace The neck
Is finished with a tiny collar of
mauve satin The sleeves are long
and straight, in keeping with the
present-day fashion, and fall over
the hand with a tiny turnedback cuff
of the same mauve satin. The ether
hat is of mauve satin with bow of
dull orange-colored velvet.
In the other sketch is shown a
white satin evening gown with over
dress of white chiffon with bolero ef
fect in front of the bodice embel
lished. with pearls and diamonds. A
tiny band of white satin finishes the
neck and there is a soft drapery of
white chiffon around the waist with
long ends The skirt expresses the
pannier idea and is long and d'aping.
“Jack and the Beanstalk,” of
pantomime popularity and fame,
will have a rival this season
in many a fashionable “ Jill"
with a “beanstalk” of blossoms up
rising from her straw hat, this aspir
ing arrangement, being the very lat
est millinerial mode. And it is one
of the smartest, too, for it permits of
a blending of any number of beauti
ful flowers and colors, which if dis
posed in the ordinary way would al
most cover even a gocdly sized hat,
wherens in the form of this tall, tap
ering “clump" they leave quite un
broken the lovely "line,” which is the
distinctive feature of the new shapes,
the resulting effect being of that ex
treme simplicity which is almost
daring and altogether delightful.
These, massed blossoms are for the
most part placed rather toward the
back of the hat, at one side, and
not even one bud or leaf is permitted
to stray onto the front, and abso
lutely iintrlmmed part, a very sim
ilar scheme being carried out, too,
when' feathers are the chosen form
of adornment One of the latest and
largest models in fine bfack pedal
straw has its wide brim upturned
high along the left side, and, then
sweeping low down at the right,
where there consequently comes into
full view an ostrich feather of
glorious cerise coloring, which is so
placed against the crown that its
drooping “Lanoered” ends make a
background for the whole curve of
the black straw. Beyond this plume
there is nothing—not even an orna
ment or a bow to fasten and finish
off the feather, whose stem is Jusi
bidden at the base by a few soft
featherey strands being drawn across
it
And the result is that, while this
hat can be quite correctly and effec
tively worn with even a plain tailor
suit, it will also afford a perfect com
pletion for an afternoon gown oi
charmeuse or taffetas, whereas Its
predecessors In the way of beplumed
models were definitely restricted to
wear with elaborate toilettes. So
thus are the advantages of the pres
ent favor for simplicity onoe mors
proclaimed and proved.