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THE“GENTLE ART”OF MAKING SHOES I l . .H ~ ■ wfw i V ® w t I *&iS>gp>Srj&w .».♦•< >A « B « - B 1 «n\\\ 1 i Z Wrl ’ -■ - • jjL ,/, \ v / c_~~zj iwi lint is / * M£m£LJ flu '■ <;wWMlfc fiw/ /# >*■■ w / l •—___ ■ iHSk L, J ■ 00Q II ' ) ' ' V - Wk | Goodyear Welt Machin# ': \\ ,// / ©%■ >; i .- *1 g Manufacturing Plant of the United Shoe Machinery Com- \\\\ v,r//l /' SM? JJJr*" _L v ? ■ pany, Beverly, Mass. \\\\ Z i /// (\ O“ /T\ ’ . . fl \\v\ /''i V r \\ \' /z/m * "*” z r /?/ fc 3 | Nx\ S/s/ i iSwdF / \ \'N^ v >o -i rg. \ H 1L I iW vk L Oii-' s - r~ ~j. J! 18?/ n /^ Wl wwwm_ Ibvtk r/Ao- 1 \ til 111 Slipper Worn by Oda- f -■■ .H>jMt<f I ij X\ ilroil ’ S 1 111 ''xfafo 111 lisaue in Turkish Harem 1 gSg®’ k ) t<\ 11 I t)f \V-j’ A BFtSa |B|S I X, ’J-W’V. jlil ™ a °^° ' il |L jJ Bkh. ■ HI '>z v ' I' bF *< a Wv aa.h i «»<«*•*.»%3sSSSKS&fek B/\ I The Piked Shoe of the X,V Century. Slipper of Elizabeth’s Time. I ' ---I HI __ ■ =SSS= SSSSSSSSSSI llaflffis ■ i ’ • Ih2f wMBEMK’ ~ i Shoe of Richelieu’s Time. « - < ■ I -A II , • tftKHKr «SB3SSSSSSSS Goodyear Stitching Machine. INTERESTING STORY OF THE SHOE AND ITS EVOLUTION FOOTWEAR OF THE PAST AND PRESENT Great Development of the In dustry in the Past 50 Years Wonderful Machines of the Goodyear Welt System Shown by the J. K. Orr Shoe Company at the Manufacturers’ Exposition. "To the making of many ‘shoes’ there Is no end.” The substitution of the word “shoes” for "books” in this trite old say ing, seems eminently fitting and proper, for long before the mind of man conceived the idea of making any permanent record of events, or his thoughts, the fashioning of some suitable protection for his feet had demanded his attention and the prob lem, as far at least as his immediate re quirements, solved. ft is a fax - cry from this primitive foot covering, conceived by man when the world was young, to the wonderfully com fortable, durable, and beautiful products of American shoe factories of this present time, for through everj' stage of human development, the shoe has kept thorough ly apace, reflecting in its design, his en vironment and his vanity. It remains to day the same reliable index to the charac ter of the wearer that it has always been. Never before in all history has footwear been made which was so comfortable, and so durable, or sold at so moderate a price, quality considered. Strange as it may seem, the shelves of the greatest libraries contain hut little information regarding this Important commodity. Almost every tribe and nation has some tradition of the shoe, generally attributing to it some mysterious power for good or evil. The ruined Temple of Thebes, Egypt, show the primitive shoemaker fashioning the samfals which protected the feet of his patrons. It seems almost incredible, but the tools employed by this ancient maker of shoes; the awl, knife, hammer and pincers remained the only implements employed by even the most skilled masters of this ancient craft, until about 60 years ago, when the first crude machine was intro duced. The development in the past 25 sears has been most bewildering. So rapid has it been that those who were familiar with the shoemaking of even a few short years ago. pause in sheer amazement before these wonderful machines of the Good- year Welt System, which have been in stalled on the stage of the Auditorium. This very comprehensive demonstration of up-to-the-minute shoemaking, has been installed by the .1. K. Orr Shoe Cofit pany, of this city, through the cordial co operation of the United Shoe Machinery Company, of Boston, who make and sup ply to shoe manufacturers the wonderful machines shown, many of which, are as intricate and as finely adjusted as a watch. In this exhibit the .1. K. Orr Shoe Com pany are showing the exact method em ployed. and every detail of the materials regularly used in the manufacture of their now famous "Red Seal" Shoes. The machines are operated by employees from the Yonge Street Factory of this firm. It would be difficult indeed to conceive a more comprehensive and convincing demonstration. The thousands who have watched the operations of the machines in the first few days of- the Exposition, have gone away with a firm and abiding faith in the American shoe, and what is even of more importance, the product of the local “Red (Seal” Factory, of which Atlanta has every reason proud. Adjacent to this exhibit are two show cases containing a portion of the remark able collection of ancient and historic shoes owned by the United Shoe Machin ery Company, of Boston, and which have been loaned to Mr. Orr for this occasion. By studying them one is enabled to comprehend the gradual evolution of style, which has been going on in the past five centuries, and compare shoes which were undoubtedly masterpieces in their day with the wonderful product of the present time. The gradual evolution of the. shoe, from the first simple Sandal worn by primitive man is interesting indeed. From the first simple piece of hide or plaited grass bound to the bottom of the ‘ foot there was no change other than to beautify in the foot protection worn by citizens of countries whose histories have been preserved for several centuries: it was not, in fact, until after the decline of the Roman empire, that anything ap- HIE ATLANTA GEORGIAN AND NEWS. MONDAY. AUGUST 5, 1912 proaching in design the shoe as we know it, was devised. In medieval times throughout Europe shoes with long pointed or "piked” toes were worn by the high born. Toward the end of the fourteenth century these points became so ridiculously elongated that golden chains were used to fasten them to the limbs of the wearer. A law was finally enacted restricting the length to which shoes might be made. Different kinds of half boots were worn by the Anglo-Saxons and the Anglo-Nor mans. in the reign of Edward IV. if not earlier, the boots proper, with tops and s)jurs. was established as an article of knightly dress. In the reign of Charles I a species of boot, exceedingly wide at the top, made of Spanish leather, came into use. With Charles II a highly decorated French boot was introduced as an article of gay courtly attire. Meanwhile the jackboot, as it is call ed, had become indispensable in the cos tume of cavalry soldiers and hprsemen generally. By William Hl and his fol lowers it was regularly naturalized in England This huge species of boot remained in use in British cavalry regiments, until comparatively recent times. In a some what polished and improved form it is still worn by the Horse Guards. The jack boot is almost entitled to be called the pa rent of the top boot and some other va rieties. What perhaps contributed to break up their general use was the introduction of the Hessian boot as an article of walking dress. Worn over tight pantaloons, the Hessian boot was a handsome piece of attire, giving undoubtedly an elegant ap pearance to the nether costume. Boots of this shape were worn by the English general officers in the early part of the French war and somejvhat later. At length they were superseded by the well-known Wellington boot, introduced by the great duke as a simplification under the loose military trouser. When the name of Blucher was given to the half boot, the Wellington was almost entirely abandoned in England, in consequence of the universal use of short ankle boots. It is still largely used in some continen tal countries and the United States. SHOEMAKING IN AMERICA. INTRODUCTION OF MACHINERY. The first shoemaker on record who came to America was Thomas Beard, who came in the Mayflower on her second trip. He brought with him a supply of nides and made shoes for the colonists. The pioneer shoemaker of Lynn. Mass., was Philip Kertland. a native of Buck inghamshire. who settled in what was to become a shoe center in after years, in 1636. Os course, all his work was by hand, as machines were not then dreamed of. Kertland taught others his craft. Shoe making became an industry of the place, so much so that fifteen years later Lynn was not only supplying all the neighbor ing towns and settlers, but also the port of Boston. Tanning and shoemakmg were men tioned as industries of Virginia as early as 1648. Special mention was made of the fact that a planter named Matthews employed eight shoemakers on his place. In 1656 legal restraint was placed on the cord wainer in Connecticut, and in Rhode Island in 1706 The business of tanning and shoemak ing was firmly established in the province of New York previous to the capitulation of the Dutch to lhe English in 1664. The industry was carried on profitably in 1698 in Philadelphia. An acl regulat ing the material and the prices of the boot and shoe industry was passed by the legislature of Pennsylvania in 1721. When a young man desired to become a shoemaker in these early days he served an apprenticeship of seven years with some master shoemaker. During this time the apprentice was instructed how to shape the insole and the outsole. He depended almost entirely on his eye for the proportion. He was taught to pre pare pegs and to drive them, for the peg shoe was the most prominent type of lootwear in the early half of the last cen- tury. The apprentice was also taught to make, turn and welt shoes. This re quired exceptional skill on the part of the artisan in channeling the insole, sewing the welt and stitching the outside. "WHIPPING THE CAP.” As soon as the apprentice had served his term he started on what was known as "whipping the cap.” He journeyed from, town to town, living with the fam ily while making a year’s supply for each member. John Adams Dagyr. a celebrated shoe maker of Essex, England, came to live in Massachusetts in 1750. He was a mas ter craftsman and gave a great impetus to the industry in Lynn. Recently a mon ument has been erected to his memory in that city. In the development of shoemaking, this master craftsman discovered that he could greatly increase the output of his estab lishment by supervising the work of a number of apprentices and ordinary shoe makers. instead of spending his time actually making shoes himself. This marked the birth of the factory system. In time women were employed to per form some of the lesser tasks. So that in Lynn, in the year 1795, there were two hundred master workmen, employing 600 journeymen and others, in a year 300,- 000 pairs of shoes were turned out. These early factory buildings wore sim ple structures, and the shoe was made under one roof. Frequently the leather used for the shoes was tanned on the same premises on which the shoes were made. The farmers found that shoemaking was remunerative. During the long, cold New England winters many of them turned their hands to making an honest pennv in this way. They built small ten-by-ten factories on their farms. Many of these little shops are still standing. In some cases these farmer shoemakers only partially finished the shoes and sent them to the factories to be finally com pleted and put out on the market. INTRODUCTION OF MACHINERY. Thus the industry slowly developed until the introduction of machinery, which happened a little more than a half a cen tury ago. The first machine invented to aid in making shoes -was designed to turn out shoe pegs. This was invented in the year 1811, and peg shoes were worn widely in the next few years. It was not until 1835 that a machine for driving pegs was made. This was a hand machine, and its work was by no means satisfactory. A machine for rolling sole leather under pressure was the first machine widely ac cepted by the trade. With this machine a man could do in a minute the work it had formerly taken a half hour to per form with the old-fashioned lap stone and ham mer. But the machine which gave the shoe making industry its greatest impetus was the sewing machine perfected bv Elias Howe. This machine was followed by another which sewed with wax thread. \Vit|t it the uppers of shoes were sewed in a much more reliable manner titan they had ever been sewed by hand other machines followed for splitting the sole leather and buffing the grain. Lyman R. Blake sprang into notoriety in 1858, when he invented what was later known as the McKay sole-sewing ma chine. and which brought to Gordon Mc- Kay in later life the millions with w'hlch he endowed the Lawrence Scientific school at Harvard college. The machine was in a crude state wh,en Blake first endeavored to have it used. Colonel McKay believed in the machine, however, and employed skilled mechan ics to aid in its perfection. He encountered a great deal of skep ticism and opposition to the adoption of the machine. At one time he offered to sell the machine to the shoemakers of Lynn for their exclusive use, if they would pay him $300,000. Luckily for Colonel Mc- Kay the offer was not accepted. Public necessity, however, compelled the shoemakers to do what Colonel McKay had failed to obtain by all his offers The demand for shoes, more shoes and better shoes than ever before forced the manu facturers to take up the McKay ma chine. Colonel McKay was still embarrassed by the lack of capital and was unable to car ry on his rapidly increasing business. This brought about the introduction of the roy alty system, whereby the machine or the machine owner participated in the profits accruing from the use of the machine. This has become an inherent part of the shoe industry. ROYALTIES BRING DEVELOPMENTS. Royalty paying became one of the prin ciples of the industry and it has lived ever since. It afforded an easy manner in which machines could be installed with out entailing a heavy expense upon the manufacturers. The success of Colonel McKay in in troducing his machines induced a number of mechanics and inventors to enter this field. A large number of their inventions were purchased by Colonel McKay. A New York mechanic. Auguste Des touey. invented a machine for sewing soles. It did not prove successful, how ever. But Charles Goodyear, nephew of Mr. Goodyear, of vulcanized rubber fame, was impressed with the idea and firmly believed it could he made practical. He put a number of Inventors to work on the task Four models were con structed before a successful machine was turned out. 'Phis machine was designed to sew only turn shoes. Even for this purpose it was many years before It proved a decided success. , But Mr. Goodyear believed that a ma chine could be made which would sew welt shoes also. He went to worts on this proposition. In this, too, he was even tually successful. 1 Then came the introduction of a ma i chine for heels. These heeling machines I have been developed steadily ever since. Mr. Goodyear made further improvements. He developed machines for doing all the i auxiliary work upon the shoes and for all the work necessary upon welt shoes. These machines ultimately Became the famous Goodyear wreit system, which has ■ been improved, until today It is as perfect as human invention can make it. . UNITED SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY Organization Put an End to Litigation Which Threatened Prosperity of Big Industry. 1 The invention of many machines simi lar to those turned out by McKay anti 1 Goodyear, about the year 1890, threatened ■ to bring about a disastrous industrial e war. 3 There was great business competition at first, then the various inventors and manufacturers of machines began a legal - war, on the ground that their patents ’ were being infringed. 1 This brought great hardships to the manufacturers of shoes, who found them selves in many cases, prohibited from using the machines which they had in stalled for making their shoes. They had, in fact, to bear the brunt of the strife ‘ which was being waged between lhe in ventors in the one case and the manufac turers of machinery in the other. ' Injunctions Against the use of machines, damage suits and litigation of all kinds 1 became the order of the day. These con ditions threatened to kill the shoe indus try of the United States, or, at least, to 1 seriously cripple it. But. fortunately, all this trouble was brought to an end by the formation of the 1 I’nited Shoe Machinery Company in 1899. By purchase several of the more impor tant concerns making shoe machinery were brought together in one company. All the litigation, all the injunctions were terminated. A harmonious management 1 was brought about, under which all the jealousies and bitterness of the past were wiped away. PRESS COMPLIMENTS CORPORATION. , The formation of this company, which ! plays such an important part in the or ganization and development of the jn*eat , shoe industry, was recently commented upon by an editor of one of the largest •shoe trade papers in the country, as fol lows: “I suppose that every corporation with sufficient capital and power to accomplish 1 any great undertaking will always be the object of a certain amount of suspi . cion and abuse from those who are pessi- ■ mistically inclined, and the I’nited Shoe -Machinery Company was certainly no ex ception to this rule, for In its earlier days few companies have been more grossly maligned or so unreasonably assailed. “Anyone, however, who review’s impar tially the record of happenings that im mediately preceded the formation of this company and those which have transpired tn the succeeding years can not be other , wise than surprised at the wonderful change and improvement that have taken place in conditions affecting the manu facture of slioes, as tlie plans of those who directed its affairs have been un folded." LIKE TREATMENT FOR ALL. The company treated all manufacturers i alike They soon came to realize that each could obtain from the company ma chines and service at the same prices that all the others hail them. This prin ciple of equality to customers has been maintained at all times by the I'nited Shoe Machinery Company, and it has borne splendid fruit. '1 he new company determined that it would have the best, whether in brains or workmanship, and lhe best inventions were taken up. the best machines were employed and the best and fairest business methods were adopted. The mon who were best fitted to solve tjic problem of the trade were made to leel that the company offered them a rcat opportunity for advancement. While they helped the company they were help ing themselves. The companv has paid a high premium for ability along all lines, and this course lias engendered a friendly rivalry among the men in its employ. CENTRALIZATION OF PRODUCTION. When the companv was first formed It found itself in possession of a num ber el manufacturing plants in various part- of the country Only by centraliza tion could the company hope to attain the higher economics for itself and its customers which it hoped to obtain. The officials of the company realized that its manufacturing interests must be brought ’■ gather. With this idea in mind a committee spent a whole year vis itlii,,' the various plants owned by the company. This committee gathered data which eventually resulted in the. con struction of the great plant at Beverly Mass, which has been declared by emi nent engineers to be one of the finest plants in the world. An idea of the magnitude of the work carried on within this great manufacture ing plant may be obtained from a brief description. A walk through the factory means a journey of six miles. There are seventeen acres nf floor space. An army nf employees—4,2oo in num ber —works there every day. The weekly wages of these employees exceed $75,000 In the stock room 80.000 different kinds of machine parts are stored, ready for de liver v at any’ time they may be required Machines ♦© the number of 450 a weel are yhipp-d *t\\a.” from the factory. A? man” as 20.000 have been shipped out in a year. Hach one of these machines per forms the w’ork of from on** to twelve men. One hundred and twenty-rive thousand pounds of steel are consumed each week in the factory. The foundry produces thirty tons of castings each day. Sixty thousand pieces a week are made by the drop forge de partment EMPLOYEES’ INTERESTS PROTECT ED. The interests of the employees are care* fully guarded by the company. A sav ings bank and Insurance company are operated especially for the benefit of the em ployees. 'l'he salaries paid the employees are high. The company has provided a coun try club, a gun club and the very best quarters for the men and women wh6 work for it. The employees have beer given opportunities to do co-operative farming. The old policy of let-well-enough-alone has not been recognized by the company. It believes that what is goods can al ways be made better. Therefore the com pany is constantly endeavoring to bet ter the machines which it turns out, t« make them do more work and to do the work more correctly. In many cases this stems to lie a search for the impossible. Nevertheless, th* company employs a corps of efficient me chanics and well-known inventors to bet ter the machines, which already seem perfect. As soon as a new invention hafl proved its worth the old machines art displaced and new are installed In this manner the shoe manufacturer frequently finds himself better equipped to carry on his business than he was be fore. This is due in no small measure to the energy and initiative of the United Shoe Machinery Company, for the shoe manufacturer is provided with the latest ’ and best machines as soon as they are perfected. If he had to purchase the machines the ’ manufacturer would find himself sadly hampered. Instead, he pays the company ‘ a certain small sum on each shoe he turns I * out of purchases from the company fur . nishing the material certain findings es t sential to its operation. 1 ROYALTIES NEVER INCREASED. This system, while It provides the man ufacturer year by year with improved machines and facilities for making shoes, does not entail an increased expenditure 1 by him for machinery. The royalties have never been increased since the or ganization of the company; but rather, they have been decreased. It is rattier surprising to learn that the average roy- I ally accruing to this company is less than tw’o and two-thirds cents per pair of ’ shoes This covers the entire cost ot • manufacturing the machines, the supplies, improvement, maintenance and adminis i tration. ' There has been a striking prosperity in 1 the entire shoe industry of the United 1 States during the years in which the United Shoe Machinery Company has been in existence. The Federal statistics show this in a striking way. MODERNIZING SHOEMAKING. i Wonderful Machinery Shown in The Red Seal Exhibit Operations of the Goodyear Welt System. The machines shown in the .1, K. Orr exhibit form one of the most interesting groups imaginable, and many compli ments have been paid to this firm on the , enterprise which could conceive ami carry to so successful a conclusion so ambitious ■ an undertaking, it is also a sterling tes timonial to the character of the Red Seal shoe for man, for the inmost re cesses of the shoe are laid open for criti cal inspection, and representatives from the Red Seal factory in Yongt street are present to answer any questions regarding the quality of the materials used or the details of the wonderful Goodyear Welt system employed in making them. As a shoe is made either a comfort or a torment in its manufacturing process the following brief details regarding the construction of a Goodyear Welt Shoe will interest not only the thousands who have already visited the exhibit, but those who are sure to do so before its close. EVOLUTION OF A SHOE. In the evolution of a Goodyear Welt shoe from tliat embryonic state in wnten it Is "mere leather and thread," • > tl.at pe; feet pn.dttet which has contrihut I so much to the c< n fert of the world, t cr dlnarlly passes through, one hundred and six different pairs of hands, and is obliged to conform to the requirements of fifty-eight different machines, each per forming with unyielding accuracy the va rious operations for which it was design ! e<l In the beginning the different parts form,t g the shoe upper are cut from care fully selected leather; the edges carefully finished; the linings and various stays prepaied. and the whole carefully stitch ed together; the eyelets through which the shoe is laced are set tn position, and the whole is ready to be placed over, the wooden last, which determines the size and shape of the shoe. To the bottom of this last there has a’ ready been tacked, by United Shoe Ma . chine tom puny Insole tacking machine, an insole which ,s just the shape of the bot tom ol Ute last This insole has been previottsly prepared by having a little slit cut along the edge on a slight bevel to ward the cfutet Another little slit in side 'he first one and on the opposite slant is cut. and th< two turned outward so that they stand at right angles to tl>e face of the insole The toe box. which gives permanent form to the toe of the shoe, is put in place, coated with a peculiar elastic gum by tlie Hex Box Toe Company machine The operator now places the upper on the last so that every seam comes in just the po sition designed, and a tack driven part way in by the Rex assembling machine holds it m position at the heel AN IMPORTANT OPERATION. Now conies one of the most important operations—the Rex pulling over machine draws the leather smoothly around the last, the operator adjusts the machine so that every seam in the upper lies al just Hie exact position intended. A second pressure on the foot lever of the machine, and two tacks driven on each side of the toe holds the upper at that point securely in place. The consolidated hand method lasting machine now draws each portion of th< upper securely down to the last, taking the stretch from the leather, and tacks driven automatically but part way in hold it there. The toe portion is smoothiv drawn around this part of the shoe by the ingenious United Shue Machinery's lasting machine No. 5. These operations are most carefully performed, and the last is not removed until the shoe is finished, so the shoes hold their shape and are comfortable, they are not drawn tightly in one place and loosely in an other. The Rex upper trimming machine now trims off all the surplus parts of the shoe upper and the Goodyear insole tack pull ing machine withdraws the tacks which held the insole to the last. The shoe is now ready to receive the welt, which is a narrow strip of prepared leather sew ed along the edge of the shoe, beginning where the heel is placed and ending at the same spot on the opposite edge. This welt Is sewed from inside the lip of the insole, and the curved needle passed through the lip. shoe upper and welt, uniting all three securely and allowing the welt to protrude outward from the edge of the shoe. DIFFICULT TASK IN SHOEMAKING. The needle in making this stitch does not go inside of the shoe, but passes through only a portion of the insole, and as the tacks which are driven but part way in. in lasting, are withdrawn, the shoe is left perfectly smooth inside. This part of ihe work was formerly one of the most difficult and laborious tasks in shoe making As it was performed entirely by hand, the drawing of each stitch depending upon the strength and mood of the workman, it is, of course, obvious that stitches were oftentimes of different lengths and drawn with different tensions. It is surprising iiow quickly and easily the work is done on lhe Goodyear welt sewing machine— Model G. This famous machine has been the leading factor in the great revolution that has taken place in shoe manufactur ing. Its work should be carefully noted; all stitches are of equal length and meas ured automatically, the strong linen thread is thoroughly waxed and drawn evenly and tightly, for the machine neverj tires—it draws lhe thread as strongly in., the evening as in the morning. Every* revolution ot the shuttle forms a lock stitch of great strength, which holds the welt, upper and insole securely together. The Goodyear Universal Inseam Trim ming Machine now trims the surplus por tion of the welt and upper smoothiv down to the stitches, and the Goodyear Welt. Beater and Slasher forces the welt to stand out evenly from the edge of the shoe The Goodyear Shank Welt Skiver i thins off the welt at the shank, and as specially prepared material is spread over lhe Insole to form a partial cushion for the feet. RUBBER CEMENT APPLIED. The entire bottom of the shoe is now coated with rubber cement from the Star Cementing Machine, and the heavier out sole, made from the most carefully tanned selected sole leather, the rough or flesh side of which has been coated with ce ment, is molded into shape and pressed securely into position by the Goodyear Improved Twin Sole laying Machine, where it is allowed to remain a sufficient time for the cement to set. The next op eration is that of trimming the sole and welt so that .they protrude a uniform dis tance from the edge of the shoe, giving shape to the sole. Simultaneously with the rounding operation the machine cuts a little channel or slit along the edge of the outside in much the same manner as the work was done on the insole. '■ This portion of the work was formerly very difficult and a costly operation by J. hand, but seems simplicity itself when t the operation is performed on this ma . chine. The rounding operation simply in cludes that portion of the shoe to which ! the welt has been sewed, leaving the I outside ■at the heel without a tension. ’ This portion is first nailed to the shoe on the Loose Nailing Machine, from which small brass nails, automatically driven and spaced, are clinched against the steel heel of the last. The surplus portion of leather is then trimmed off on the Heel Seat Rounding Machine, and the little channel cut by the knife of the Rough Routjding Ma chine is turned up so as to leave the channel open for the little Goodyear Uni versal Opening Machine, in which a little wheel turning very rapidly lays the lip smoothly back. The outsole is now sewed to the welt. This operation is performed on the Goodyear Outsole Rapid Lockstitch Machine, which is very similar in opera tion to the Goodyear Welt Sewing Ma chine used in sewing the welt to the shoe. DURABLE LOCKSTITCH. The stitch, however, is finer and ex tends from the channel which was cut for it to the upper side of the welt, where it shows after the shoe has been finished. The lockstitch formed by this machine is a most durable one; using a thoroughly v axed thread, it holds the outsole securely in place, even after the connecting stitches have been worn off It is one of the most important machines in the shoe making process. In connection with this machine there is also a Bobbin Winder, which winds the bobbin used in the ro tary shuttle ot the machine. A coating of cement is now applied in side the channel just before stitching, and alter it has been allowed to proper!'" set the lip is smoothly laid down by the Goodyear Channel laying Machine. The next operation is that of leveling, which is performed on the Automatic Sole Leveling Machine, one of the most inter esting used in the shoemaking process. It is a double machine, and by its use a, vibrating roll passes over the sole of the shoe under heavy pressure, covering ever' - portion of the sole and shank, and after completing its operation the shoe is au tomatically dropped from its position be neath the roll. It removes every possi bility of unevenness in the bottom of the shoe The shoe now receives its heel, which, wit It the exception of the top lift, lias already been prepared It Is secured in place by the American Lightning Heel ing Machine, by means of which all heel nails are driven at one time and clinched inside tlie shoe. The heads of the nails are left protruding above the heel so as to retain the top lift, which is also pressed into jilace on this machine. As It is pressed down over the heads of the nails they do not show on the surface of the top lift. SHOE SLUGGING MACHINE. i'he next machine drives the small piece of brass or other meta' which pro tect the top lift from wear and which are called slugs. This is done by the Uni versal slugging machine. They are ac curately' placed at any desired number the machine automatically driving ano cutting I hem off as they are drawn from a continuous cord or wire. The top lift, which was accurately placed on the heel ing machine, also serves as a guard for the Ultima heel trimming machine, in which a rapid revolving knife cuts awav all the rough and surplus portions of the leather, leaving the edge of the heel smooth witli the exact contour intended. I'he edges of the sole are now trimmed on the Model A edge trimming machine, and a series of indentations made along the surface of lhe welt between the stitches to give the shoe a much more pleasing appearance and finish. This work is done on the Goodyear welt indenting and burnishing machine. The slices from this point pass through a variety of operations, carrying with the factories in which they are made. In tending to bring every portion to the high est and most durable finish. After all >« completed the last, which has been al lowed to remain in the shoe, is with drawn and the final dressing and finishing administered, so that the shoe stands fort) a perfect product. In every portion of the world it will b found that wherever the highest grad of footwear is made this same process an the same machines are employed, varyin only in unimportant details, and that Hi Goodyear welt shoe is esteemed tlie high est type of footwear in appearance, con fort and wear, the world has ever knowi 7