Below is the OCR text representation for this newspapers page.

JW (zv) / a/ w* itet I za Ml/ z wBBw 4 ' v JHhi-1 1 //I| I>/ x |fc |MMM| '“>• I / > /S . ” Z'' ■ ■ 18 V B ><L.T -y>; >— ■ ‘i ■ Jr AHraJg/* - ~<t » »-'^<<»v?\../~:.,-■ , >; *; .&H. ; «5 E z / ■ ‘ #*■■'■ t / / Ml- $S' <WWBI ■ W 'WWU? L®b / - Z : SJ g / / / a jmbz '. ' 11 / / - wFw z Zz . w *Z - > W Z IHL it .. JSt * ■ ( s w • K WH&I ■'/ ’ < , ' <EK^|«wmW^> /O wMUXj wmt BBBJBJ /^Bw- : ' wpßGk- ■MI / ■ w ,4Bibte > ®Sb -1 ~ -^^' r ‘ / ' wii / jw ’ z 4 s3K. zZ SWMww.- » Wfe« z 1111131 138 Z w:lw4 ; - :; > >■? ■ ■ ‘ >w'' Z fglEgaa k '< z r \IhIHB < ■ ■ Ml- ’ zHH WHH z i^'J WHHBI V BrJS WhHB LADY DL’FF-GORDON, the famous “Lucile” of London, and foremost creator of fashions in the world, writes each week the fashion article for this newspaper, presenting all that is newest and best in styles for well-dressed women. Lady Duff-Gordon's new Paris establishment brings her into close touch with that centre of fashion. Lady Duff-Gordon's American establishment is at Nos. 37 and 39 \\ est Fifty-seventh street. New York City. By Lady Duff Gordon (“Lucile”) A SHORT time ago I was con fronted with a rather In teresting problem —that ot dressing Gaby Deslys. She rushed into our Taris establishment In the rue Penthioyre one day and an nounced that she had decided to change her manner of dressing. She Bald that she had tired of the ex aggerated fashions and the eccentric clothes that the Parisian dressmak ers had Insisted upon for her, and that she longed for the simple girlish things, such as 1 make for tny clientele. I must admit that Gaby Delays is Just the type for my dresses. I am constantly searching both Taris and London for pretty young girls with Eefcrc and After. A SILVERY Summer moon shone sweetly on the likewise silvery sands. The Summer sweethearts sat in si lence. She was gazing up at the dim blue vault ever them, where the little stars twinkled in a million tiny points of flame. He was gazing at her a* if be d like to eat her. “Dearie. what makes the stars shine so dimly to-night?’’ she gurgled. "They are outshone Ly the glorious light of your eyes, my darling,’* he whispered foolishly, ‘and so they paie their splendor, and—or —and"—— He didn’t know how to go on, so he kissed her instead. And she was quit® satished, perfectly content, and glad. • ••••• • Same moon, same sands, same peo ple—only they are married now. •’I wonder bow many telegraph poles, ‘ the murmured thoughtfully, “it would take to reach from her© t© the moon?" He looked at her as if he’d Ilk© t 0 bile her. “One. if it was long enough," he snapped. "Den t ask such silly ques tions And a solemn silence enwrapped the bummer night. - C - <~\ ~( slender, boyish lines, such as she possesses, to serve as mannikins. Her hair parted toward one side and undulated so that it falls over her ears before it is drawn into a tiny knot at the back of her head Is per fection for Oriental and Russian Below, the Oriental Headdress o f Gold ’ Metal Disks Suggestive of a Ti rki.h H rem to the Right, a Typical “Lucile” Dre ß foT ’ Girls. Pale Blue Tulle, Seed Pearl, and Rose Veh vet Are IJsed. V Ji Pg '' : : 'W 'WB ' w ! ijy" MB B ® ff'* '‘M 1 x I x; ■v. ' ‘ ■*- 1 mWE, x* ? ---X . J ‘ x '* , • .... a M it ■ W WH RX ' i YY?' £‘ .2 ..Til Ts /. *' t • dHBH| *- i c- f hL /Sf •. /’ fin ■I r »lb i v |k|os■«»>,? t »* mm. feWOMORIi :Y-» ' ISBha ■ WWm-; ~ »-* OB#HsSa ■■■ - v.'' ' ' . "*'■ Fwll ~ g|| - . Co' \ Two Original and Striking Evening Costumes Designed Especially for the Frenchiest of French Comediennes, and Two Unusual Head-Dresses Showing the Oriental Influences of the Moment headdress. Oh, how patiently I have explained this simple coif fure to my mannikins! Often personally dressing their hair myself In just this fashion hoping to win them away from puffs, curls and other curious hair ornamentations. And thus show to the customers the prop er coiffure for the dress they are exhibiting. This time she came into our establishment, and while we were In the midst of all sorts of ques tions regarding materials and de signs for dresses, we managed to decide upon two coiffures, both so new and yet so attractive that I feel sure that they will bo copied and worn later on by mon daines from all over the world. The first consists of a band of coarse white net, bound tightly around the head and fastened in the back. At this fastening is a huge bird of paradise, one-half extending upward, while the other half of the bird droops downward until it touches the shoulder. The second headdress Is de cidedly Oriental, suggesting both Russian and Turkish turbans, and yet not quite like either. It is made of very heavy gold lace which is fashioned in to a close fitting cap At the back there is -.JV« a black aigrette fan tasle placed at a pe cullar angle that lends charm and originality to rhe entire headdress. I ‘think that the most effective touch Is given by the hammered metal disks that hang from the brim of the cap and fail over the forehead and hair. I must admit that this clever little artiste Is not difficult to dress —she lends herself ideally to the costumes she wears. She can draw herself up to the fullest height and become serious and dignified if the dress requires it, and she can be a beauty such as I dream about and The ‘Taradise* Headdress « Coarse White Net, with Hugo Bird of Paradise to Give Height and Smartness. c; < ; W .xljMMy !Fa r ;ffZ \ - ’"-Z', » z ~ W />A ZwMSSiajfe ....•■■ ■ BKk • m ■ A w£~ ’ '' ■ 1 z^ ? . /Zsk " '■■' • . - Zi?Z "” 'kEr*'’ I Z' y .. .- ■ "4 ■ ■ / S' . HI i®, • f ”I®s -* . ■ '7 1 The “Cut-Away” Gown of Black Velvet and Pink Liberty Satin, with Crystal and Jet Motifs. have In mind when I design my tea gowns and weird color combinations reminiscent of the Far East Some times I am insfnred by my friend Bakst, whose wonderful Russian col orings are the despair and delight of my life. She can be the Innocent school girl—the roguish debutante, and again the typical girl of the boule vards. All together she is a perfect annikin, and, well, if she were not Gaby Deslys, I am sure that I would try to persuade her to come into our designing roomj. I could make lovely things on her. But as this is Impossible. I have done the next best thing in sending her forth dressed just as I know young women of her style and type should be dressed. She will serve as an in spiration to many who will see her In these clothes and will convey to them a message from me to the ef fect that this is the way I would costume them, provided they have the same slender outlines as Made moiselle Deslys. One of the first dresses we decided upon was a design after my own heart —a pale blue tulle embroidered in pearls and placed over the palest rose-colored satin foundation, it was a typical “Lucille” dress Ths over-dress of the tulle so beautifully embroidered with pearls is grace fully craped. The under robe is scalloped at the feet and embroi dered •ith seed pearls in a lace de sign. The bodice in of a delicate and unusual shade o~ rose-colorcd panne velvet. This combination of tulle and velvet is very novel; also a hint that Autumn is at hand. The seed pearl trimming that is used on the skirt is duplicated on the bodice. As you can see by the picture, this cos tume is delightfully suited to the artiste. It was a vastly different thing to make a black velvet evening gown. Mademoiselle Deslys was not to my mind the figure for a stately black costume. Always black velvet sug gests to me a stately matron, and I could not see the slender artiste la that role! But suddenly I was in spired and went ahead, making, [ believe, one of my greatest successes. I used for the under robe pale piuk liberty satin in one piece from shoulder to hem. This I covered with a soft velvet drapery that started at the bust. The bodice was of black mousseline elaborated trimmed with brilliants. This wai necessary in order to brighten an otherwise sombre color scheme. As you will see, the most magnificent and elaborate embroidery is on ths skirt below’ the hips, where the vel vet is caught up to give the cutaway effect to the bottom of the skirt. In this motif I used brilliants, cut jets, black crystals and steel beads I carried this idea to other parts ot the dress and into a fringe which I used in various ways. The sleeves, for example, are banded with this fringe and around the bottom o± the skirt another band commences at the cutaway and sweeps the floor in the back. Ths cutaway effect, by the -way, is one of the little touches that gives youthfulness to the dress, while the train is an innovation in its way, for it is the only kind I approve of for dresses for young people It is separate from the dress and of a contrasting material. Tor Miss Deslys the train is of, black tulle, streaked with lines of bril liants and crystals and falling loose from the shoulders to the ground, where it is heavily em broidered with brilliants and cry sials on a velvet foundation. - \ |