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Lady BuiLGoi fs New Winter Designs i New Tendencies of Fashion. By Lady Duff-Gordon XT /HAT are the newest ten J fashions? Never have there been so few ' * changes in the general trend of the fashions ~ x sat this season. The gowns themselves remain prac- .rally the same; the newest tendencies are shown in 'ne little touches—the waj a girdle is draped, the way Jflfe. 1 neck is finished, the way a scan is adjusted. . * n very t ru th> this year it is the little touches that count I can see very little change in the hats. The shapes are practical!.' the same as last year, but the trimming is decidedly different. For instance, I have created a butterfly hat that is jsHß| absolutely novel. The hat is a widc-l rimmed, low- “THE ADORER OF BEAUTY,” an Afternoon jMSIMS Costume of Green Velvet Trimmed with Skunk ' Fur to Match the "Pipe" Muff. This Costume Shows the New Length Coat and One of My New Small Hats. woHWV JissssL m ■HHTT ißpk' Hill si B. Jißll '.' -TH. : 1 ’ CURATE” ; W«jh Costume of 7 »?■<■ W Blue Serge in S ' •< Which I Think That w i mlw . : " ■" ,■ Every 1 . - . " . <“ Woman Can aB-If • ■ IV'I '■? Be Beautiful. L.W-' * * ■ .rj !<<<> “q ? '4 The Small Ms » '- . i Hat of Geld $ Velour Is , . .11 the Rage In P r,s ' RSk ______ i Uyiuw —■■■ ? ' < msMl .. ■ z,.' <■;■? ' . wf : ; v■ ■ ■'wfl i-M EH i &■•■■WRr w W ; OWflii Bi’ GRAY VELVET RECEPTION GOWN (on the left), '. .■; Exemplifying th- Newts' 'i • 'J Effect. Gray Fox Fur s Used or. Idem '••:! .- : Cuffs .0 f'atch the Large Muff. «■. y* ?" ■ ' ? 5 Small Hat with Cockade in Two Shades as Gray. '• • ■; THE “ALL-TOGETHER” COCTUME (on the right), of | O ' ■ \ White Satin Charmt use, tremely Long Skirt and I (!3d,>.. < the La eat way Coat of Black Satin. ■., ■ , .•■ A\ v<‘ . " .; J v / r- " - ■ ~'.F% r ' ■ ?'t ? ' ,'A. . • .../!’— : <'■?. ’ >'■ '■■• /-■ -ci' ,/ I tF K? ■ <■■->■, ■■ ? t , ■ ... : . , „:■., \ ' t-t —— i‘7" -. ■'■.<■< \ ■ A V ‘ v ..- > ' > ... ~e ■'.'■ |j- : ’ ■■ ■■■ ~ * J XvV<. \..:.;, 4 t . < ■ ’ 7 ;h„ . .< ■ ■' .■ s< ! “ k • '<„ : . : cF t x I i'WteS'’ F iWr . TMt *<.y * x- ® '■• •'sf .'*'' 'is IBW w W 4 ** ? I f x r ■wh ’ i W w " /1|!B7 -. :#.a x ---I f z i M™ 1 ®' ■' < ."MO ’ vv r M-n x IMI H® ®J - J ■ v ihir4 A l. Mz..77 s _______ clowned affair of brown silk plush. On the very tip of the biini. just as though resting for a moment, is a -.olden brown butterfly, with its largo wings opened just a trifle. 1 his typifies the new hat. decoration. The top of the mt is left unadorned- all the trimming is either on the tip edge of the brim or underneath it. of 0 .*.'i It " ulnlsua * thing to see a hat with a whole, bird feath' d lM ’ " n< tcrneath the brim or a spreading osprey 111 then I have used plastrons of roses in this w l ' ti" i,en !<atht ‘ rs are I JUt under the brim in this - " 1 nds either stand out beyond the edge or curl down backward over the ear. , 1 ' '“ n,art women of Paris have adopted the small culi las 1,1 " aS last Winter 16r the mas •nz. U J 7* X <lll d f° r sma l! children. This Winter th< i n< amos have seized upon it and invariably wear It '"' tl,eir morning tailored costumes. few T th ?' nO O CSt Skh ' tS? Skil ’ tB ’ Hke the hatSl ehow 1s Clan^t > ' J hey are narrower than ever, and that wh, 1 ‘ ,l ' > '~ t *hat can be said. In tailored costumes. * ° S^*r^a are short, they are not more than a irmv , alHi , a ,la!t around the hem. They are no longer gored. Gored skirts are absolutely out. circmlLT 5 "? 1 SkiFtS ar< ’ <>Ut in tWO pieces - A narrow Pieces an<l ” baPk the Same wi<lth - T,lese two „,. . . , re jolned on the hips over an Inset of the same nm , la ° r ° f SOme t,ifCerent fabric. For instance, a • serge skirt will have side insets of blue brocade. 1 e velvet or blue corded silk, matching exactly the serge, of course. A new idea that has captivated many of the mon- < ames who are devoted to short skirts is the bunched fulness just above the ankles at the back. This fulness < oes not make the skirt any fuller at the hem, as it is aid in two pleats or folds on the side. < oats are longer, slightly fuller below the hips and ■' . plain. Buttons of cloth rather than the fancy but tons of last year are the smartest this season. The one bit of decoration that can be used with im punity this Winter is a touch of brocade. Brocade col lars and cuffs have displaced the elaborate braiding. Never before has severity been so absolutely vital in tailored costumes. Parisians of the smart world have practically adopted a morning uniform, so plain are their clothes. But what a contrast Is presented in their evening gowns and “at home” costumes! Over-elaboration is the tendency in these costumes, and the one-color cos tume is absolutely out. Eight or ten color tones are frequently used in one evening gown. Every age is represented in these smart, costumes for formal affairs. We have robbed the Orient, we have taken ideas from the days of Pharaoh, of Cleopatra and even of Eve. With the over-elaboration of decoration has come a craze for transparency that is startling, even in Paris. But the Parisian woman of fashion and social standing wears her transparencies only in her own home. She never wears them when she is herself a guest, and she never wears them in public places. Girdles were never so elaborate, and scarves are a necessary part of every.formal costume. The present scarf does double duty. It frequently forms the girdle, or perhaps, draped over the left shoulder, forms a sleeve. Muffs are larger and very elaborate. They are made of brocade, of velvet and of chiffon, with bands of fur. and when brocade is used the hat must match. The velvet and brocade muffs are shirred in five or six sec tions. The muffs are new in shape. They are practi rally pipe shape. The pipe that is used for the carry ing of water and gas! The}- are long and round. The draped muff and the muff that is wider than it is long no more find favor with the mondaines. The keynote of beauty is absolute simplicity. Whether in house decoration or feminine fashions, 1 believe that absolute simplicity should rule. Person ally, I think that it is within every woman's power to make herself beautiful. And not by means of paint and powder, but by her clothes. To be chic, to be. exquisitely gowned and groomed is to be beautiful. Manneis may make the man, but dress makes the woman. The woman 01 plain features can make herself beautiful if she chooses her gowns with an eye to her defects as well as to her good points. No woman who does not. know her defects can dress herself as I think she should. The woman who does not realize that her left shoul der is a bit higher than iter right is hopeless. The woman who does not realize that her pale blue eyes can be darkened by the colors she wears is equally hopeless. 1 do wish that 1 could impress on all women that clothes mean more than anything else to them. Women of acknowledged beauty have been called ■‘homely’' when it was their clothes that were homely and not their faces. Beauty and smartness are twin sisters. The Latest Creations. IN the fashions that 1 am discussing this week are many and varied models. In the picture at the extreme left corner is my ideal street costume, the “Curate.” The Curate is my exclusive creation; it is suitable for all ages of women—the debutante, the bride ami the matron. This model is built of blue serge. 7he skirt is one of the two piece affairs that are fastened over on side pieces on eacli hip. In the Curate the hip pieces must be of the material that the skirt is made of. The long semi-close coat is absolutely plain, the only true feminine touch is given by the high collar and lace tie. The many buttons are cov ered with the cloth. The hat is one of those small velour affairs that Paris is just wild about this season. In the next picture is the gown I call the “Adorer of Beauty.” The skirt is one of my new one-piece models, and the coat, as you will notice, is longer than those we wore last Winter. Skunk fur is used on the coat and also on the small hat. The bunch of tiny roses on the tip of the brim is one of the new ideas in trimming. Next, I am showing you two afternoon gowns that are very chic. The gray velvet and fox costume shows to great advantage the newest draped effect. A gray and silver brocade waistcoat is a distinctive feature of the bodice. The gray and white fox muff is the latest shape and size \ contrast is given by the gown on the seated figure. This I call an “All- Together" costume. I call it by this name because it is a costume that is all together. The gown is of white satin charmeuse and the cutaway coat of black velvet has a waistcoat of the satin. The large future on the right of th* page is wearing the “Wine of Bove” evening gown. This is an elaboratt costume of gold chiffons and spangled green net. It is very transparent, for there is no lining under neath the net skirt. The wrap of the gold chiffon is unlined and is trimmed with skunk fur. Notice the novel arrangement of the scarf. It hangs from the left shoulder in a manner especially Turkish. My “Mascot'' is suitable for a debutante, but a woman of any ag > The New “Curate’ Street Dress, the “Wine of Love” Evening Costume; the “Adorer of Beauty,’’ and the “Mascot” Are Among Fashion's Latest Novelties Created by Lady Duff-Gordon could also wear it. The overdress is of sheer, coarse-meshed black net embroidered with roses of many snades. 1 am particularly pleased with the scarf on this gown. It is draped so as to form the left sleeve. Tiny roses in garlands give a charming touch to this frock. Mascot Costu me >■ ■ * ’"TiT J MK ; Wr ■ a ' gfM MPP Itif' ■ IHi ■r > W f feu; , - f fa® Sr A ' // JPr v. I £n V- 3 & I V - dK *v « • «■ -’7 1 * MW ' U 1 * * MW .-’ - > » “"" ’iß -W £ 4il-A '."“ft w ls A Wlir ?> 1 W 111' lx 1 f I i I's I W ’ ! It! I . "’•■W ■' ' I/ ' I ' I ’ m. i\ Xrl r ! 1 i w ; BL! ’‘l 1 lv ' i * ""me ■*' V' : s o I ,« fr -M- I; t, x W»,. : x j i Bt/ U mawtl 1 ' H l’7 <-; w«a I Ms j> 4 x- » 1 Irik s l IB wT B ml- “THE f it fl OF LOVE" 11| j £ ■ _ Evening .id Costume Distinctly ; a|m FFJ&FFA®* OHen... C Suggee- Novel Scarf I Are the fl of the Turkish * fl Woman ■ of High Rank. The Unlined Wrap of Gold Chiffon fl Is One of My Latest Models. I