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Jiu, ij, •s» Ke&erveU. i O * W-VV t3ca$i ■ L AD'l DUFF-GORDON, the famous “Lucile of London, and foremost creator of fashions in the world, writes each week the fashion article for this newspaper, presenting all that is newest ind best in styles for well-dressed women. Lady Duff-Gordon’s new Paris establishment brings her into close touch with that centre of fashion. Lady Duff-Gordon’s American establishment is at Nos. 37 and 39 West Fifty-seventh street. New York City. By LADY DUFF GORDON (“Lucile”) Paris, April 1st, T HERE i» of course a direct con nection between the charm ing little trot-about suits and the delectable blouses that are the rage In Paris this Spring. Before de scribing any of these separate blouses, however, f want to describe briefly the tailored costumes shown here this week. They are to my mind perfect examples of the Trot-About costume The picture Inthe centre shows my latest Eton costume. Its newest points are the long effect in the back, and the sleeves, with their seams almost to the elbow. The coat Is cut on the bias and the skirt on the straight. A strong contrast Is the costume In the sis-ond picture. The coat Is long and full in the skirt. It Is the new box coat, and its dlstlngulahng points are the buttons and the low cut revers. The skirt has the new box pleat in the front and the hat, you will notice, is one of the small shapes with tha wide wing trimming. 1 am showing you the third picture sti that you will he able to see the latest way to wear the rlbbon-bouml veils. This is the elite manner for the Spring, and all the mondalnes are thus wearing them. 1 find myself falling In love with almost every new blouse I see this tills season, and I expist*you will do the same, and go to the further length of acquiring, ns well as admiring, any number of (he prelty things For they aro really pretty, as well as novel, and every one of them is as soft as soft can be in fabric and fashioning, so that the natural curves of the body may be faithfully and fascinatingly’followed. And to further this desirable result the cor- iets are always, of course, cut very low Indeed, many of them, in fact, only just outlining and holding In Ihc waist. And one very popular ■node] is there modelled In elastic, and only over the hips merges Into i: fitly honed batiste, the idea being t, however thin the blouse or dice may be, It can give no lightest outer hint of the inner be- 'innlng of the corset, the elastic dinging to the b ily like a ce- i ml skin. As you , now, I am al ways In favor of the low-cut cor set—in fact, 1 am now advocat ing—and making land incidentally wearing myself) a mere belt, which only com mences lls ca reer at the waist, hut which makes up for this late start by then ex tending almost to the knees. How ever, as its material Is a silken tricot and It is only lightly boned, and, furthermore, is laced with elas tic below the central busks, It is beautifully comfortable and supple, and If you wear it you simply can not acquire that awful "trussed-up" and stiff look, which is quite hideous and fatal. And now about those blouses. The special feature for the season is tbe veiling of fine net with hemstitched ninon, and very dainty is the result ing effect, I can assure you. Some times, too, tbe simplicity of the outer pinon Is further contrasted with inner bandings of lace. A typi cal and lovely model of this kind, making use first of flesh-pink ninon, then of a blending of ivory and dull gold lace, arranged In alternate, encircling bandings and insertions, and finally of a veiling of gray ninon, which is itself left practically un trimmed. It can boast, however, of an array of the newest and prettiest buttons made—just imagine it—of a blending of the lace and the ninon. So that there is not one touch of stiffness about the whole soft and idntrmlng garment. Sometimes, again, the ninon, in stead of completely veiling these inner and dainty fabrics, will be so draped in handkerchief points on the shoulders and sleeves as to bring them into outer and well- deserved prominence. Personally, however, I favor the all-veiled effects, because they are more siibtle. ItMtYrt - The Craze in Paris for the Little “Trot* Jib out” Costumes Which Has Brought Into Prominence the “Waist Beautiful” Other smart new blouses are being made in fine white voile, with quaint hand-darned devices for their adorn ment and lace headings to finish off the few seams. Bolder designs, em broidered in cotton or fio.ss silk, also show up effectively on a voile back ground, and in both cases crochet buttons provide a pretty finish, as well as an actual fastening. The simpler ‘‘shirt blouses” are for the most part made in the good quality crepe de chine, which is, I think, quite the ideal material for the particular purpot*-, and for many others, too. for the .matter of that. The new, long, low collar Is a feature of all these models, while the "dropped” shoulder seain is also well in evidence, its position being sometimes only an inch or so above the elbow, where it will be accentuated by triple- cordings. A picot edging is a new' finish for these down-turned collars, and the cuffs, too, and either pearl or crystal but tons nre used on the central pleat. A ‘‘Norfolk" blouse, too, makes a change from these more famil iar models, its narrow box-pleats being set in beneath it long shoul der yoke and being combined for some three or four inches beneath a waist belt of colored suede or black patent leather. The collar is deeply downturned, and over it is laid a second and smaller collar of fine cream canvas, with a picot edge, the two being permanently and prettiliy united in the bondage of a loosely tied scarf bow, which must, of course, match the waist belt in color. Such a blouse as this will help you to wear mu some of your old skirts, which are not of the most up-to-date corse let variety, so its purchase will really be an economy. How I Cured My Grey Hair The New Box Coat Costume, Showing the Skirt with the Nt w Front Pleat. The New Wide-Winged Hat. The Latest Eton Costume of Striped Silk Serge, Showing the Odd High-in-Front Skirt and the Sash Girdle. “The chic mondaine wears her rib bon-bound veil in this manner.” I Will Tell You Free How To Cure Yours by a Simple, Sure, j Harmless, Home Treatment. Age No Obstacle. Don't Use Harmful Dyes that make Your Hair Look like a Painted Mop. LET ME HELP~YOU FREE. to fret to nnv «>r ««- whose hair Let me dear that is quite different from the ordinary hair-dye or varnish Which make* the hair a like a painted mop, quite destroying its natural u i«f!trauce and m many cases actually killing the * to oriulntil n n I it rit I *hn«l«* l tier a re want «.f #.'««> to prove my statements. If you want to renew your faded hair and look - mg again. simply send >our name and addres* taring v*> . ther lady or gentleman), ami enclose i t.uiM*ent 'tamp lor postage and 1 will semi vou i detail' ’.U a am cuwh'i*. Adders* Mrs. Mary K. Chapman. Suit© 1XH 11. GrosTeuor Build ‘Og, Providence* li, 1. ke many sMliera my I n ' na> day my godfather. ■ to tty a preparation 1 did days and de ni \ hair ami tone. Very it was once tin* nntu- Mlttule n( it 1 r I 1 Mi My Secrets of Beauty—No. 223—Exercise Your Teeth— By Mme. LINA CAVALIERI, The Most Famous Living Beauty By Mme. LINA CAVALIERI VERY organ in the body is placed there for a use. The teeth are no exception, though the habits of Americans would in dicate that they so think. There are two reasons why the teeth should be exercised. One of these is contained in the admoni tion seen in some of your popular restaurants: “Chew your food. Your stomach has nq teeth " That is clear enough. We should not by our laziness at table and the vulgar habit of bolting the food throw an overburden of digestion upon the stomach. We should chew every morsel of food so well that it passes into the stomach in fluid form as nearly milk-like as we cau make it. The other reason is the preserva tion of the teeth themselves. The first concerns our general health. The second has to do with the health of the teeth. If we neglect to exercise a muscle what happens to it? It grows flab by. withers and becomes useless. In the case of the teeth they weaken and In some cases fall. Of nothing is it more true than the tee<h that to live we must work. The work of the teeth is to masticate, but we must give them something worth their while to chew. An extremist has said that the teeth of dogs are strong and white because they eat bones, and he advises us to eat bones. I advise him to go to a retreat for maniacs. But let us give them some worthy work to do. First, let us not cook our food in many waters in order to destroy, for the result is we throw away the lime and salts that strengthen the teeth. 1 have heard cooks say with pride that they had boiled onions in three waters, not including milk. Foolish!. They should have cooked them in one water to keep in the vegetable all the mineral matter so enriching to the teeth. Cabbage has a wealth of lime in it. So also has the dandelion, which we are just now enjoying so much for our salads. Potatoes, rice, as paragus. spinach, beets, cucumbers, all contain lime, and lime is the material of which teeth are largely made. What if the vegetables are tough if cooked in but one water? They give the teeth precisely the exercise they need. Fruits contain much lime, meat also—and do not cook the lime out of meat by cooking it too long nor in more than one water. Nuts are opulent in lime. Habitual nut eaters usually have firm white teeth, pro vided they are wise enough never to attempt to crack a nut, no mat ter how soft the shell, with the teeth. Whole wheat is one of the best exercise articles for the teeth as well as a stimulant for the entire intestinal tract. Eggs, soups, soft cereals, cheese, are of no use whatever, sp far as giving exercise for the teeth is con cerned. Lettuce and other green salads are as good as eggs and soup are bad for tooth exercise. Soda and lime are lacking in the diet of the average meal placed upon the average table. Study the list I have given you and remedy that lack in your own housekeeping or order intelligently if you must dine at restaurants of hotels. A third reason for giving the teeth plenty of exercise concerns neither the teeth nor the stomach. The food that is not well chewed may pass unchallenged the gate of digestion—the mouth—and make its way through the stomach, but un less it has been well digested it does not pass into the blood as na- E. A. M. writes: “Up to about two years ago my hair has always been that of a blonde, but it has gradually grown darker and darker (probably from lack of washing), until now it is such a dark brown that at night it can be mistaken for black. As I do not like any color hair but blonde, you will greatly oblige me if you will advise me how to bring it back to its original color. Your hair wilt become lighter if, after washing it, you rinse it with camomile tea made in the propor tions of one heaping teaspoonful of the camomile to a pint of water. Ammonia in the water, a half dozen drops to a pint of water, lightens the coior. Peroxide in the sjme pro portions also does. Wash your hair every week. Vary the iighteners I have mentioned with borax, a fea ture designed it should. It remains in the large intestines to rot. It adheres to the walls of the intes tines, a clogging, barnacle-like mass, and gradually changes to unhealthy fat cells, so adding to the weight. spoonful to a quart of the water in which the hair is washed. Yet these are all likely to make the hair dry and brittle. “Will you kindly give me a remedy for a thin neck at you- earliest con venience?” asks 0. B. S. “I will appreciate it greatly if you can help me to fatten my neck so that I may wear low collars when the warm days come.” Deep breathing and exercise with the arms will develop the upper part of the chest and appreciably strengthen and enlarge the neck if you persist in the treatment for many months. Also exercise your neck by moving the head backwards and from side to side. Invest in a can of olive oil and feed the neck by rubbing the oil well into it with an upward stroke every night. Lano- line used in the same way should help the process. Wear your collars loose, or wear no collars at all, to give the skin of the neck a chance to breathe. [BEAUTY HINTS i Superfluous Hair. j I M ill \ou tell me if there is any way to j>er- mauentlv destroy a disfiguring growth of hii- perf.u-Mi.s hair on my face and arms? I am 55 years old and the growth is very had. My da ugh- ter. who is 2'_\ is similarly trembled. I have been told that depilatories are worthies* and that nothing is effective except the electric . needle, which I hesitate to try, as I am told it is painful. I should be glad if you would give me your advice CHARLOTTE K Yon ore wise to avoid the electric needle, i It is a dangcmns operation, and besides being , Painful. often leaves severe scars. 1 have fre quently stated in these columns that it is bet- 1 , l • : endure the anno.' mce than to suffer tht pain of the electric needle. I have al^o warned i 1 inquirers against depilatories which are worse i • than useless because they cause the hair to i grow nut thi( ker than before. Recently, however, I have received some enthu- i -iasrie and reliable reports about a new method i I (originating in .Tapani which has been success- , full, used in this country. I do not know its name, but a friend of mine who received a - complete cure by its use told me that she would ‘ gladly furnish full particulars, without charge, to anyon ■ who would write Iter. . if you will write to Mrs. Osgood. Apartment 1 ( 544 K, 11S East 2Sth St., New York City, c enclosing a two-cent stamp for reply and men- \ ) tloning my advice, she will send you, quite 1 free of all cost, complete instructions which \ will undoubtedly enable you to be i>ermanent- 1 \ Ij* rid of all trace of the hiemish. i BEAT TY EXPERT. \ Beauty Questions Answered