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10
liy the Star Company.
Oil of Sweet Almonds, (50 grammes.
Cocoa Butter, <50 grammes,
Salicylic Acid, 2 grammes.
Dry skins are often made worse by the use of
rough soap or alcoholized toilet waters. [ ad
vise the use of bran-water, marshmallow water
and neutral glycerine. Here is an excellent
recipe for toilet water to be applied to dry
skins:
Hitler dowers, 50 grammes.
Marshmallow Flowers. 50 grammes.
Primrose Blossoms, 50 grammes.
Two Orris Bulbs.
Boil all together for ten minutes
quart of water and strain. ,
Fatty skins may take astringents and absor
bent powders well in moderation. They must
be treated by a method precisely the opposite of
that for dry skins. Alcohol, alum, lemon, porax,
eggs are used.
Decoctions of flowers of lavender, rose petals,
tea leaves are also useful. Here is a recipe for
an excellent lotion which may be used several
times each day.
Water, 1 quart.
Bose Petals, 1 handful.
Primrose Blossoms, I handful.
Snake Boot, 25 grammes.
Boil for 15 minutes anti strain.
- To close up open pores douche the skin fre
quently with cold water. This cream may also
be used for fatty skins:
Rose Water, 100' grammes.
Sugar of Lily Bulbs, 20 grammes.
White Wax, 30 grammes. %
. Tinetnre of Benzoin. 10 grammes.
Pulverized Alum, (5 grammes.
The following lotion should be applied morn
ing and evening:
Distilled Water. 250 grammes.
Bicarbonate of Soda, 1 gramme.
Oil of Violets, 6 drops.
A New Photogfaph of Lady Duff-Gordon Showing
Her Latest ‘‘Barbaric” Creation for Herself.
By Lady Duff Gordon (“Lucile”)
T HE very tiling that makes wo
man so great is her savagery.
I never joined in the chorus
against Kipling when he wrote that
charming little poem about the
female of the species It was
quite true and I thought that every
intelligent woman ought to have
gloried in it. Nor do T feel offended
when some clever man tells me that
we are of the backward sex, the
primitives. Of course we are. Tt is
primitive to have children, primitive
to nurse them, primitive to glorify
the heari tafire and to sacrifice our
selves to guard it.
it i ■ indeed the savage in us that
makes us great, that gives us the
courage to be the mothers of men.
It is not a reproach—it is a very-
great tribute to be called so.
I believe in the primitive and I
do not think a woman ought to fight
against the savage that is in her.
She ought not, of course, let it de
stroy her manners, but she ought
to foster it and keep it alive as the
soil from which the more sophisti
cated flowers of her soul spring.
d&v Onus ftowi
~to~
&AjCuyu?
Without Lessons or Knowledge of
Music Any One Can Play the
Piano or Organ in One Hour.
L ady duff-gok
DON, the famous
“Lucile” of Lon
don, and foremost creator
of fashions in the world,
writes each week the fashion article for tins
newspaper, presenting all that is newest and
best in styles for well-dressed women.
Lady Duff-Gordon’s new Paris establishment
brings her into close touch with that centre ol
fashion.
Lady Duff-Gordon s American establishment
is at Nos. 37 and 39 West Fifty-seventh
street, New York City.
VJZoy,
Wonderful Ne,v
Tlint Is'm
Be.
The woman who kills the savage
within her—what is she—the blood
less, the faddist, the woman who will
not have children, who cannot enjoy,
the sexless thing that does not know
what life is?
This is a queer fashion article you
suv Well, why should I write each
week of the cloth you express your
selves with. What is far more im
portant is the fashion of your souls.
And from time to time I am going
to write a fashion article about the
soul. If you understand, you will
know how to clothe yourself more
harmoniously, more artistically.
For that is, after all, what clothes
are for. If I thought that dresses
were anything else I would at once
abandon making them and go in im
mediately for primitive fashions" in
deed—even as far back as those of
Mother Eve before the fall.
The love of color is savage. So
is the love of ornamentation. So
is the love of all beautiful, glowing,
picturesque things. Nature express
es herself in color, in ornamenta
tion. in beautiful glowing things.
Woman was first to see this—savage
woman. She was first to know color
and to wear it: first to recognize
that her wonderful body and the
soul that animates it could and
ought to be expressed in outward
things. Hence fashion, which, when
it is true, is only the symbolization
of soul, of emotion, of the body that
is the vehicle for both.
Refine the savage out of us and
what will you have? Every woman
in the same uniform, her hair cut
just so, walking just so, thinking
just so, looking just so arid every one
alike. Oh, the deadly monotony of
life when the % savage is killed with
in us forever!
And that is why I say to women—
do not be afraid of your savage
tastes.- Do not fight them—not too
much, it is savage to love, savage
to hate, savage to mate to bear chil
dren and to rear them and to fight
for them. Woman does it because
she is savage and I thank whatever
gods there be that 1 am savage
and have been in every successive
birth that has brought me again, into
this wonderful world.
In the fashions of to-day woman
has cast off the foolish conventions
of centuries and once more dares to
express the savagery that is in her.
By doing so she is more attractive,
more true to herself than she has
been for centuries. This is the
secret of the dresses which reflect
the Oriental, the barbaric and which
characterize the mode of the
present.
In point 1 show you a dress I have
designed for Miss Violet Van-
hrough, that very great English ac
tress. It is sumptuous, savage and
sensational-—and it is, 1 think, beau
tiful. It is of orchid chiffons, elab
orately embroidered with golden
grapes. The “double skirt" shows
the odd "up-in-front" effect, which
is of the most chic. The two parts
of the skirt are finished in orchid
satin in three inch bands. Worn
The “ Savage ” Hat
That Reminds Lady
Gordon of a Victori
ous Chieftainess.
over this, much in the manner of a
“Court Cape," is a gorgeous robe
of gold and orchid brocaded satin.
There is a savagery about the whole
costume that is carried out in the
three enormous plumes of the
dress.
1 am proud of this dfess. It is
so expressive. And it is truthful:
truthful as nature herself.
Note, too, the hat in the smaller
picture. It is not mine, but I like
if. It reminds me of a headdress
worn by some savage chieftainess at
a moment when she was urging on
her hosts to attack her enemies. It
is ornamental and it reveals. It has
strength. It is only, strictly speak
ing, a tiara of white feathers set in
a bed of flame colored maline. But
how much more than that is the
spirit it typifies.
What is the instinct that tells us
that a touch of this color here and
a touch of that there is the proper
thing to bring out the personality ? *
Exactly the same Instinct that made
our savage mothers put a shell of
this color here and a feather of that
there. They were right and we are
right. Man hasn’t the vision—hence
his painfully uninteresting and
limited costume.
Keep your savage tastes. There
is more danger in loosing them than
there is in falling victim to the peri!
of exaggerating them.
Mxr ^pei-otc r»f R^autv-j B y Mme - Lina Cavalieri
OCvlClu U1 UCClUlj (he Most Famous Living Beauty.
No. 225--Beauty’s Glaze--the Skin--Its Care
“Savage” Dress Designed
by Lady Duff-Gordon for
Violet Vanbrough, the
Famous English Actress.
lit*—“iou Nurprlaed me! \ oil fold me
yeaterday you play a
BO<f !”
$he—*‘l eouldit't; I l«*t*rned to play In
one hour by the wonderful *Kaay
Method MukIc*!"
Impossible, you say! L.et us prove
it at our expense. We will teach you
to play the piano or organ, and will
not ask one cent until you can play.
A musical genius from Chicago has
invented a wonderful system whereby
anyone can learn to play the Piano or
Organ in one hour. With this new
method you don’t have to know one
note from another, yet in an hour of
( iractice ; ou van be playing the popu-
ju* music with all the fingers of both
hands, and playing it well.
The invention is so simple that even
a child can now master music with
out costly instruction. Anyone can
have this new method on a free trial
merely by asking. Simply write say
ing “Send me the Easy Form Music
Method as announced in American
Sunday Magazine.”
FREE TRIAL
Tlie -oiujilele system. together with too nieces
of music will then lie sent to you FVee. ail
charges prepaid ;.mi absolutely not one cent to
pae. You keep it seven days to thoroughly prove
it is all that Is claimed for it: then of you are
satisfied, send us $1.50 and one dollar a month
until in all is paid. If you are not de
lighted with it, send it back in seven days, and
you ■will have risked nothing and will be under
do obligation to us.
lie sure * state number of white ke., on your
piano or or 1 also post office and exieess office,
tddress Easv *ethod Music Company. 317 Ctark-
aon Bldg.. Chicago. Ill.
A NYONE who lias curiosity enough to ex
amine the skin under u microscope will
see that it is covered with an infinite
number of minute holes or pores, through which
it performs its functions. It is really one of
our most important organs.
A moment—If you think that what l am going
to tell you to-day is merely elemental physi
ology, I beg yotf not to pass the article by for
that reason. If 1 deal in elemental things in ilie
beginning it is only so that every one may un
derstand.
And, after all, as 1 once told a very beautiful
Roman friend, the true secret of beauty lies
entirely in the thorough understanding of fun
damentals.
And so to continue. The skin extends over
the surface of the entire body, li is very tine,
but has great powers of resistance, for it is the
intermediary between our body and all other
bodies.
The skin differs from the mucous membranes
in that they are always wet. while the skin is
relatively dry. and its functions are almost in
visible.
The most important function of the skin is
exhalation, which is accomplished by the exhal
ing vessels, and allows the body to free itself
of certain residues of food and waste products.
This function is different from perspiration it
self, which Lavoisier estimates at from one to
two quarts and a half in twenty-four hours.
Also there are in the thickness of the skin
certain small glands, called cutaneous glands,
which secrete a kind of fatty liquid intended to
soften the envelope of the body.
As to the absorptive function of the skin, it
is just as real as any other as notable experi
ments have proved. A person plunged into
warm water to the neck will absorb 20 to 22
grammes of water in half-an-hour, through the
pores of the skin.
Finally, the third function of the skin is its
tactile sensibility. In this respect it is most
valuable in action toward other life. It is
through this power that we perceive heat and
cold.
I hope you have read this, because it points
the moral that we can not be too careful about
the skin, nor should we protect it too much.
Besides, it is indispensable that the skin should
be in a good condition and do its work normally,
for l have been told by a certain great French
physician that if a person were to cover only a
third of the body with varnish, she would fall
ill at once, and soon die.
It has also been proved that the skin relieves
some of the internal organs from a part of their
work, and if it does not work properly they are
overtaxed.
Finally, when the skin performs its functions
freely it gives the body beauty and freshness,
it is like a glaze of delicate color through which
life appears and seems to spread. And that is
why 1 call the skin the glaze of beauty.
Our first step in our search for beauty must,
therefore, be through attention to the functions
of our skin—and now you see why I have been
so explicit in my description of that organ.
This thorough attention merely consists in free
ing it regularly and frequently from everything
that may obstruct the pores and by not mal
treating it any way.
Beauty of the skin is the immediate conse
quence of health of the skin. The skin is beau
tiful when it is fine. soft, fresh and tinged with
color. The epidermis, which is |he superficial
tissue, should be transparent. This transpar
ency is formed and renewed by a kind of var
nish, comparable to wax. which is secreted by
the sebaceous glands. It is at the same time
a glaze and a protection. The skin is beautiful
in proportion to the normal action of these
glands.
Mme. Lina Cavalieri, the
Most Famous Living
c*
In those whose life is sedentary, the period
of greatest beauty is Summer, the time when
heat makes the exhalations most active.
On the contrary, persons who are more ac
tive have their skins in most beautiful condi
tion in the Spring and Autumn, and even in Win
ter, for they help the pores work by their bodily
activity. In Summer the skins of these persons
are loo highly colored. They must be all the.
more careful in what I call the hygiene ol
good taste. It is not goo* taste to have too
highly colored skin.
Special care must be taken in Winter, tor
cold makes the production of 'this wax difficult,
and dry skins are often the result of lack of
proper care at this season of the year.
Every woman ought to know very exactly the
nature of her skin. There are two kinds of
skins; dry and fatty.
It is very plain 'that the treatments suggested
for one are harmful to the other kind; so care
must be exercised to use only those which are
applicable to the special type in hand
To succeed, food and the genera! mode of life
must be appropriate to the kind of skin you
have. External applications are of value, but
the organic importance is such that it will not,
assume its proper condition unless the rules
of hygiene generally are observed.
Generally speaking, dry skins require stimu
lation. You must, therefore, avoid all astringent
products, which close the pores. Avoid using
cold water, lemon, tea, and alum. 'On the con
trary, you may use with success certain sensible
creams.
Dryness is also to be combated by covering
the .exposed parts of the body, such as the
face and hands, with lanolin-cold-creams, Spread
the cream with a damp cloth, let it stand for
ten minutes, wipe off carefully and powder with
starch. Here is the prescription for a cold cream
ver$’ efficacious in treating the dry skin:
- *v.