Newspaper Page Text
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Atlanta THE SUNDAY AMERICAN’S PURE FOOD PAGE
MAY 11, 1913.
Cassidy Tells How to
Know Just What
Jellies to Buy to
Secure Real Purity
iit \\T Unde Sam Has a Breadmaker
Warm Weather:
' Mother - * Home-Made Jellle*" are
the topic* of Mr. Ca»*ldy s article
to-day.
He explain* to hoti*ewlve* why the
jellle* they buy at the stores are often
cheaper than the jellle* they make at
home.
There are good Jellies and bad jel
lies. Mr. Cassidy tells about both
to-day.
By HARRY P. CASSIDY.
A few days ago 1 went Into a atore.
While there I noticed some glasses of
jelly on the counter at one side. Nrotn
where I stood tha label read like this:
PURE
Apple Jelly
I walked across the store to look
closer, and I read the label again.
This Is what I read:
PURE
Contains 1-10 of Bonzoale of
Soda.
Apple Jelly
When I read that label I decided to
tell the housewives something about
the jellies displayed on the shelves of
some of our stores.
The jelly whose label 1 have repro
duced above la put up In Boston. I
consider the label misleading, and
under a strict interpretation of the
law*, illegal. The word “Pure" has. In
my opinion, no place on any product
containing benzoate of soda.
Such a jelly as that could not be
shipped in interstate commerce, be
cause the label is misleading.
Let me tell you a story—a story
that has its touch of human interest
and that gets right at the heart of the
jelly industry at tha same time.
There was an old woman in Phila
delphia—an old friend of my mother’s
family. Hhe was over 75 when she
died last year.
Two years ago she came to the
house one day to see my mother, and
} got into talk with her. I asked her
what she was doing.
“Picking berries,” she answered.
Where?” 1 asked,
“In a preserving house,” she said.
“Tell me how you work,” I asked
again.
She told me.
“They pay us 30 cents a crate for
picking over berries,” she said. “I’m
a pretty slow worker, and I can’t pick
over a crate a day. The berries we
pick over are those discarded by deal
ers, or those laid aside in the sorting
processes, w here berries are prepared
for retail sales.
“We have three cans. Into one wei
put the crushed and dirty berries. Into j
another we put all that are at all firm, I
and the green berries go Into the I
third can.
“The crushed and dirty ones go to 1
the preserving kettles. The firm ones
go to storage houses, to be kept till
the season when berries arc scarce,
and the green ones are kept in the 1
same way.
“Do you wash the dirty ones?” I
asked.
“Wash them—no. indeed. Why, If
you washed them, you'd wash them
all away,” *»he answered.
Now, that story show's the condi
tions in the worst type of jelly fac
tory. Do not understand me as say
ing all factories are the same. There
are many that are puttlnft out sound,
reliable product. If you want to know
how to pick out these products, let me
give you this rule:
Head the label carefully and *ee if
these words appear:
"Guaranteed under the National
Food and Drugs Act, Serial No.
If theep words appear, it is safe to
assume that the rest of the label tells
the truth—for the Federal authori
ties reoulre truthful labels
If the label contains the words
"phosphoric acid," "bantoate of soda "
■■■odium benzoate.” "benzol. arid!”
tsodlum sulphite," sulphite of sodium "
OR ANY OTHER CHEMICAL TERM
THAT YOU DON'T UNDERSTAND,
my advice to you is DON'T Itl'Y
THAT JELLY
The beet firm* in making their jelly
use only fruit, fruit Juice and sugar
Where the label reads like a doctor's
prescription ftie product is of doubt
ful character.
The fundamental evil of the Jelly
and preserve and jam business Is that
unripe or damaged fruit Is often used.
You housewives know that you can’t
get good results by using poor fruit.
But the manufacturer has a power
ful assistant. Ulueco.se Is the agent
that debases this product, as tt does
so many others. Here is the tvpe
of label you will often see:
Apple Jelly
Compound
- Contains 30 s * sugar, 35**
glucose, 19* apple juice.
15* fruit. 1* phosphoie acid
Now that label should be mist rust
ed by every purchaser. The word
“compound” is a danger mark, cov
ering a multitude of evils. The jelly
itself contains a little apple Juice,
made from the cores and peelings «>i
apples: a little fruit, some sugar, a |l
greal d* j al of glucose and a dash "t
at Id. That would be a very tasty
-in its way. But
that should he driven "ft the market. I
J haw bought jellies the label onj|
which stated that the product con
tained as high as 65 per cent glu
cose.
often there is a little gelatine to
give strength and body to the mix
ture.
1 want to repeat what I have often
said before in this column. Glucose
is probably all right in itself. Many
eminent chemists declare 1t Is a
deleterious substance—l)r. Wiley
among them. But give the glucose
people the benefit of the doubt and
say that glucose Is as healthy as
• me sugar, though not as sweet.
Th e fact remains that glue,one by
its nature lends Itself to such tricks
as this Jelly recipe. It is a product
ready at hand for any one who.wants
to adulterate or debase foods of a
certain character. And one of the
worst evils that can be laid at glu
cose's door is that it makes possible
the manufacture of the evil clan* of
jellies and jams.
Artificial color and artitidal flavors
add to the fraud at times. They
are glucose’s accessories, assisting in
the debasing process.
You housewives—become knowing
on the subject of Jams and Jellies
If you buy them at the stores, read
the labels. Buy no Jelly not guaran
teed under the nationul law, and buy
no Jelly so guaranteed If It contains
products the names of which are
mysteries to you.
You know what ought to go Into
Jelly. When something else is used,
you have a right to distrust that
jelly.
Cut High Price.s
by Eating On ions
Says Uncie Sam
The United States Department of
Agricultuie, through H. C. Thompson
assistant horticulturist, has Invited
the Housewives League to help stim
ulate the consumption of onions and
thus reduce the present high prices
now demanded by the retailer.
In a letter to Mrs. Julian Heath, the
National President of the league, Mr.
Thompson writes that the Department
has been informed thut there Is a
large amount of the 1912 onion crop
still in storage with practically no
market for It. Although farmers are
receiving only from 40 to 50 cents a
bushel lor onions, the Department
finds that the retail price in some
cities Is 40 cents a peck and the on
ions are used for seasoning only.
With a lower price, Mr. Thompson
suggests, consumers would he induc
ed to use the crop as a common ar
ticle of food.
Mr Thrmpspn wrote that were It
possible for such an organization as
the Housewives League to buy onions
direct from storage houses, and sell
them for as low a price as it could
afford, » much larger quantity of on
ions would be disposed of In open
markets. He offered to let Mrs
Heath know where large quantities
of onion.s may he obtained at a very
low price.
No amount of education along the
lines of continental eating ran wean
the American man from a taste for
pie, and the story Is told of more
than one of the men of prominence in
politics and finance that their first
request on landing In their native
country after European traveling was
for a piece of pie. In view of this
fact no real American cook, amateur
or professional, is really worth her
salt if she can’t make pie.
The double decked variety of pie
with its ofttimes soggy undercrqst
and sometimes leatheroid upper sec
tion is no easy matter to construct,
and is, to say the least, sometimes in
digestible. But the single crust pie—
the shell pie which will answer the
cravings of the most pie addicted man
is easy to make and is not at all
indigestible.
The indlgestlbllity of pie usually
lies in the sogglness of the under-
crust. In the shell pie the crust is
baked separately and can be as dry
and crisp as you please without fear
of overcooking the rest of the pie.
A Hint From the Camp Cook.
One woman who couldn’t master
the usual recipe for pie crust tried
the plan which campers often resort
to of using a sort of “glorified biscuit
dough” for the purpose and there is
no danger that this will not turn out
well. Mix and sift together a pint of
flour, a teaspoonful of baking powder,
one-half teaspoonful of salt. Rub
into this two heaped tablespoonfuls
of butter and two heaped tablespoon -
fills of lard and make Into a soft
dough, moistening as needed with cold
water. Roll this as the usual pie
dough Into an thin a sheet as possi
ble and place it on a buttered pie
tin, cutting around the edge with a
sharp knife Moisten a silver fork
and press around to keep the dough
from slipping from the tin or. better
still, press around with the thumb.
Allow these crusts to bake in a
moderate oven lill they are thor
oughly light and crisp. They can be
kept several days in a dry, covered
box and form the basis for many de
licious desserts.
The old-fashioned berry pie that
bubbled rich purple juice from its uj
per crust and emitted savory odors of
goodness when it was baking has
found a peer In the single crust berry
pie.
To make this use ripe, though not
necessarily large fruit. Pick the hur
ries over carefully and, after washing
them, drain them on a piece of
cheesecloth to make them as dry as
possible. Have one of the crusts
baked to a delicate'golden brown, and
just before serving fill It with the
berries. Have half a pint of cream
whipped tot Iff an 1 sweetened to taste
and pile tnis on the berries and serve.
Instead of fresh berries fresh and
Very ripe peaches peeled and halved
may be used with good results. In
place of the fresh peaches canned
peaches. drained thoroughly from
their Juice, can be used. Add them
to the crust just before serving.
Th* Meringue Pie.
To make a delicious lemon pie, use
a pie shell buked in a small, deep tin.
The shell should be cooked through,
but not browned. Make a lemon fill
ing as follows: Mix a heaping table
spoonful of flour or cornstarch in a
cupful of water and add a table
spoonful of melted butter, a cupful of
granulated .sugar, the grated rind and
Juice of one large lemon and the
beaten yolks of two or three eggs.
Cook these ingredients in a double
boiler to a thick custard, stirring it
constantly. Hland away from the tire
until cool. Then turn the filling into
the crust and return it to the oven
to set the filling.
When the filling is set remove the
Young Woman a Real Expert
M ISS HANNAH WESS-
LING, the official baker
for Uncle Sam.
pie from the oven, cover with a mer
ingue made from the whites of the
three—or two—eggs, and return to
the oven, leaving it in ju»t long
enough to tint the meringue a deli
cate biscuit color. Keep it in a cool
place until serving time.
An orange meringue pie, made by
substituting oranges for lemans, is
delicious. It is more savory if the
grated rind of half a lemon and half
an orange and the juice of a lemon
and orange are used together.
The be>t way to make a meringue
is as follows: Have the whites of
the eggs very cold and beat them,
with a pinch of salt, until they are
stiff Thery add granulated sugar—
a tablespoonful and a half to each
egg white. Beat thoroughly after add
ing the sugar, as this makes the
meringue firmer and less likely to
fall.
Miss Hannah Wessling Has Had
Experience in a Good
Many Fields.
WASHINGTON, May 10.—The Fed
eral Government ha* an official bread
baker. She is a college woman with
a scientific degree and a reputation
as an independent experimental chem-
ij*t, who is devoting all her time and
bringing the science of the age to
bear upon the one small task—th
baking of a loaf of bread. She is
doing this at the solicitation of UncLe
Sam, who holds that hers Is one of
the most important tasks to which
he has ever set one of his scientists.
For there is not a man, woman or
child in all the land who does not
regularly eat bread and whose well
being is not affected by the bread he
eats.
So has the Government assigned to
one well-trained woman the task of
developing the perfect loaf. She is
Miss Hannah Wending, of the De
partment of Agriculture. She has been
told that all the money and time and
assistance and collaboration which a
great government can afford is hers
In the task. She is asked to set the
standard for the bread of a nation
and after years of conscientious en
deavor she believes that she has ac
complished her purpose.
Uncle Sam gave this young woman
I a model kitchen at the Bureau of
1 Chemistry, gave her free scope as to
how much material she might waste,
, and told her in that brusque Yankee
way of his to go ahead and' beat the
world in bread making.
The presiding genius of the nation’s
flour barrel is a sunny-haifed, blue
eyed college girl who is so modest
about her work that she doey not
I wish her name used in telling it. * Al
though very young, Miss Wessling is
the holder of imposing degrees from
| the University of Cincinnati and one
j of the most enterprising experimental
chemists is the Department of Agri
culture.
Mis?» Wessling holds that the ideal
loaf of bread is not close nor soggy
nor is it full of big crevasses, but it is
light and evenly porous all through,
cuts smooth and even, and does not
crumble. The crust should be a*light
brown, while the bread matter is
white and should be deliciously appe
tizing. Part of her work is to accu
rately measure and weigh the differ-
j ent loaves when they are finished.
Miss Wessling is a devotee of the
i thermometer as a gauge in cooking,
and says the reason so many women
fail in breadmaking is because they
use the old hand tests. She believes,
too, that electric stoves are the best
for bread-making, and prophesies that
; thev will be used universally very
, soon.
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