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TTEARST’S SUNDAY AMERICAN, ATLANTA, OA.,, SUNDAY, MAY 11. 1013.
For Milady’s Wardrobe ! for the Afternoon j, a Stroll
By MME. HAUTE MONCE.
D O you want to be In the very,
very latest fashion In regard to
your heels? Diamonds, of course,
you will say. after all the rumpus has
been about them. Well, no. My shoe
maker tells me the sparklers have be
come quite demode. The last cry-
in footwear Is to have Dresden china
heels! Prety expensive, I should
say. But imagine a pink or blue satin
slipper, with the heels In china, of
a dainty design to go with the satin!
How about dancing in them and
cracking them?
* * •
Tassels arc largely used this season
not only with evening dresses but
with afternoon dresses ns well. They
help to pul| out the panel or drap
ing by making the necessary long line.
In evening costumes sleeves art- fln-
' lshed off this way. also pieces that
^fall from the shoulders over the
olctovoo Q V
nds fall on the floor
sleeves and each
in tassels.
* * •
Ratines with handsome borders are
smart for wash suits, as are al^o lin
ens and ratine** with open-work bor
ders. While some- suits are made on
strtctly tailored lines, so that they
can be easily laundered, most suits
are trimmed in some way. Printed
ratines or linens used as a trimming
for liffht-colored suits are verv ef-
* * fective.
* * *
Many of the new evening cashes
are of the Egyptian scarf type, draped
around the hips and knotted to fall
with long straight ends in front
* * •
It is a good thing that the little
afternoon frocks are growing more
simple, for the tailor-made is no lon
ger a simple model that one can put
on and wear all day. The afternoon
models are quite distinct from those
of the morning trotteur and the mas
culine tailored cutaway suit that last
year almost became a national garb,
has been relegated to the business
woman for office hours or for the
early morning shopping hours by the
woman of wealth.
* * •
Some very striking color combina
tions for that is what is to be aimed
at during the coming season are
gained by skillful milliners. , Frir in
stance, with a black and white check
ed skirt and a red coat Is worn a
black 1 hemp hat with small, rolling
brim. Overbinding the edge is a red
biac silk band and the crown is gar
tered with a wide white band of
bird plumes, with two wings posted
at one side of the back horizontally
• * •
It goes without saying that the
traveler’s tell should not be fragile
in color or texture. It should be made
to endure dampness and dust, much'
packing and frequent pressing. Yet
no traveler wants to buv a heavy,
dark veil to solve all the difficulties of
the question. The charming variegat
ed veils now shown are loth service
able and pretty. Blue, which shades
J from the fqirest gray shale to indigo,
or brown, which shades from cream
to sepia, are good choices for the trav
eler.
* « •
The new fruit decorated crepes eta-
mines and eponges help All the de
mand made by womankind for odd
and striking color combinations and
■ at the same time afford relief from
the long familiar ttorat decoraticms
•pr the somewhat overworked conven
tional designs shown on Balkan em
broidery and Post-Impressionist fab
rics. The decorations of the Fruitists,
as the designers of these patterns ar
called, are not apples or plums or
grapes, or any other fruits ever seen
by man; but they suggest fruit, nev
ertheless. and are interesting both in
form and color.
* * •
One fashion that is established be
yond dispute is greatly to he deplored.
That is tlie fashion of verv long skirts.
I To traii a skirt in the streets is some,
thing that has long been prohibited
by physicians on the score of health,
and by every one on the score of
cleanliness. And yet, closing their
ears to every reasonable suggestion
the Parisian authorities ordain the
sweeping skirt. It is to be hoped that
American women will declare their
independence and keep their dresses
from the ground. If we must let our
skirts cling about our heels in order
to preserve the illusion of our Orien
tal tendencies at least let us reserve
tile fashion for occasions when our
feet are not doing duty out of doors.
• * •
So eminently comfortable is the
-’mail and titling hat that until really
warm weather arrives we shall cer
tainly cling lo it, choosing a shape
of toga I or rlcc straw or of net cov
ered with brocade or embroidered Us.
tue. us the white and black satin
hat hi too ubiquitous.
Deep biscuit-tinted straw hats are
to court our favor this season, and
they, like the panamas, wilt be large.
The former will he trimmed with
lace and rose tints, while the panama,
with its somewhat high crown and
broad brim, bound with velvet, has
just a hand and bow or velvet for its
adornment.
A great improvement in motor
head-gear is to be noted; hats ’of
4'titched taffetas and undyed tussore,
lined with rose pink. N'attier blue or
of purple silk, lined with green and
accompanied b;. the usual veils of
mousseline de soie, naming the verv
latest iddas.
* * *
Whit* silk stockings laced with
black .‘••ilk cords from the instep to
the knee at the outside of the leg are
worn over foundation stockings of
bright color—green, cerise or blue.
The colored stockings are worn to
match the accessories of the white
warm weather costume—parasol, belt,
handkerchief and hat and gown trim
ming—and are worn with white shoes
* * +
The fashion for the Futurist style
brought tn a vast number of clothes in
colors that are brilliantly dark. For
decades we have had white serge as
the rtrst choice for spring, followed
by a host of white and light tan and
sometimes pale blue and a pale red.
No one has thought of choosing vivid
dark blue and red and brown for
they belong to the, winter offerings
and were the first green leaves.
This method has changed. The dy
ers and the designers have joined in
giving us such marvelous hues of
strong colors that women cannot re
sist them. They make the pale shades
took negative and without character
* * *
The fancy lor fastening some of
the trimmings to the lining 'bodice,
whiye they show through the outer
bodice of net or chiffon or lace, Is
firmly rooted. One lovely bodice of
white finely pleated chiffon shows
a hand of cerise ribbon drawn across
the hack, under the arms, across the
front and emerging to lie in a loose
bow on the chest. -Similarly, ribbon
in bound about the elbow under the
chiffon, on the thick silk under bod
ice and emerges to tie in a bow on
each sleeve.
* * * *
The black coat and checked skirt of
this season have distinction and arc
becoming to most figures. Neverthe
less, it is just as well to be cautious
about adopting them at this stage of
the game, They are tempting, it is
true—too tempting, in fact, to be i»-
dulgtd in by the woman who must be
contented with a single spring suit.
The ebb and flow, or rather the
flow and ebb. of certain fashions is
an interesting phenomenon, anyway.
It is repeated every season, and tlie
experienced observer can generally
pick with unerring certitude the
points where a brief tidal wave will
gather—and break. Generally speak
ing, any attractive originality which
can easly be imitated should be avoid
ed if it is launched early in the sea-
39”:. for it Is almost Inevitable that
later if will confront one at every turn
and in every conceivable guise.
* * *
T’or those who are able to Ignore
a fashion that is not becoming there
is a great deal of amusement in ex
perimenting with oddities in dress,
and often a model will be found iu
this way th^t will transform a little
mouse of a woman into a striking
beauty. In the struggle for novelty
even the futurists and cubists have
been levied upon for possible material,
sometimes, it must confessed, with
not much more success than has been
meted to some of the followers of that
new and curious art. It is leuving
a delightful trace, however, in the
bay juxtaposition of hues that are
found in'silk trimmings and coat lin
ings. resulting in striking gay color
schemes.
* * *
The result of drapery on dresses,
because of the way it has been han
dled, has been to tighten gowns about
the feet. It has yet ^o act as a me
dium for widening the gown, though
more material is used. The use of
W
A DAQISIAN RCJTAUOANT
u* me ncAQT of msiniss Atlanta
T
kAILOR-MADE costume for afternoon wear made of “mastic”
woolen composed by a long coat which is worn unbuttoned.
The armhole is cut square under the arm, according to the
new fashion. The long straight sleeves are hung kimono at top and
the lower part shows a rather wide* cuff.
The original collar is of the Robespierre model and made of striped
eponge material with a plain edge.
The waistcoat of the same material as the coat is cut in a “V”
in front, showing a small yoke of lace with a frill. It makes a blouse,
and is trimmed by two bands of eponge materials, buttoned by three
rows of steel buttons. This skirt is an ordinary plain round skirt,
the fullness of which is caught up at the waist by two large folds at
each side.
The waistcoat and the front of the skirt are trimmed with sou
tache braid.
Whether for an Ice Tea or a iMncheon Party
•If A PARISIAN RCJTAURANT \?/
t cm mmims
| IN TNE HEART OF BUSINESS ATLANTA
9 Walton Street, Just Off Peachtree
SUNDAY DINNER CABARET! $ J .00
12 lo 2. .30 and 6 to 8
Music at Night
Each Week Night
Beginning At b
drapery has also become a reason for
an uneven foot line.
* * *
It is noticeable that, where one finds
in every other style of garment any
amount of variety in the style of the
<irnihole, which is seldom at tha
shoulder, but is found everywhere
else, in the effort to compose a thou
sand variations on the kimono theme,
the tailor made sleeve, on the contra
ry. is always mounted at the correct
shoulder line. Fashion, to be sure,
allows the jackets to be either short
or long according to whether the ef
fect is becoming; the former are gen
erally sloped away at the sideband
consequently cut shorter in front than
at the back.
The bolero shape will even be seen,
but almost always coming below the
waist at the back. On the other
hand, the longer jackets are generally
of straighter line at the bottom.
* * !>
The method of having a low gown
transparent from the waist to the ev
ening ,and covering it with a fanciful
coat in silk for afternoon affairs Is
gaining in favor and is a very good
one because it gives two costumes m
one. The young girls are carrying it
out in gowns of deep rose pink and
Chinese blue and Japanese red witfc
coats that are less Watteau in the!.*
effect, so they will serve for vthje so
cial outdoor affairs in the summer.
* ■* *
The details of the new fashions are
full of Interest, for they point with
their charming eccentricities toward
decided fashion changes in the au
tumn. Varied, numerous, striking the
eye by their audacity of line or color,
their collective appearance equalizes
the individual note that is creeping
into fashion as well as the determined
effort of the designers toward some
thing new and different. Wherj fash
ion is in this transition state, ho.v-
ever, it often savors of the bizarre,
for it takes time to modify and per
fect the new r ideas that are to rele
gate the older and conservative fash
ions.
* * *
The warm weather turns milady’s
thoughts to linen and lingerie gowns
Linen, in spite of the fact that it
wrinkes so quickly, seems to have
achieved the same secure position in
summer wardrobes that serge holds
for other seasons. It is best, per
haps. in the loose weaves, although
they are more likely to shrink. A va
riation from the usual linen frock is
to make the skirt of the plain mate
rial and to provide with it a belted
Jacket, something like a Russian
blouse, but more open in front and
with a fuller peplum. This packet
may be of tiow'ered chintz and the
edges are bound with plain linen in
one of the colors of the flowers.
Most of the plain skirts lap at one
side of the front and are finished
f
with several buttons, generally at the
knee. Occasionally, however, other
ornaments, in the style of the milita
ry frog, are used instead of the but
tons.
Up-to-Date Skirts
Skjrts of the present mode are
like “all Gaul” of our college clays—
divided into three parts. They are
pretty sure to be either plain, floun
ced, or with tunic. Some attempts
are made to produce draped skirts
in ‘ the tub frocks, but the results
are singularly unattractive in most
cases. If they do not please before
the dress is washed and Ironed w hat
can be expected of them after they
have submitted to those always dis
turbing processes? The tunic is ca
pable of an almost infinite variety of
treatment, and it’ makes possible the
general silhouette required by fash
ion.
For the lighter materials it is un
questionably the best idea on which
to work. In the case of the girlish
figure, whether possessed by a girl
herself or by a thrice fortunate wom
an, the flounced skirt is an attrac
tive rival of the tunic. In the heav
ier materials, such as linens, ratines,
and their allies, the plain skirt is
best for more reasons than one. But
in these cases the plainness can be
broken by a deceptive treatment of
lapping seams which give the main
lines of draped skirts without any
undesirable bunchiness.
Noveffe in Hose
Stockings are occupying a more
important place than ever as a com
plimentary detail of a smart toliet.
Both the* day and the evening dresses
are worn very short or else an open
ing is left by the movement of the
draped tunic, allowing so much of the
stocking to be seen that It is as much
In evidence as the shoo. For this rea
son the manufacturers have invent
ed the most sensational novelties —
silk stockings by which winds a ser
pentlike line of Chantilly insertion,
stockings with butterflies scattered
over them, etc. But better still, in or
der to match and harmonize com
pletely with every toilette, they have
invented “stocking mittens," which
reach half way up the leg and can be
easily put on over the under Aoeking.
These mittens are of infinite varie
ty. Some even have mottoes embroid
ered on them, others have bouquets
of printed flowers.
Through
Shop/and
-By EVELYN WREN
I F you buy your hat first it will be
easy to plan the rest of your sum
mer wardrobe. If you can fee!
thoroughly satisfied with this article
of supreme importance, you can fin
ish your vexing, though interesting,
task with a light heart.
There is an opportunity to do this
very thing during the week just com
mencing. Fresh from the band boxes,
adorned with flowers and ribbons,
the midsummer hats at J. P. Allen’s
are utterly satisfactory to the most
particular woman. Delightful garden
party hats, pretty reception hats, chic
hatp for general wear and hats for
the summeriest of summer girls are
especially prepared for these lovely
days.
The prices are most Interesting—
$5.00 to 110.00 for hats which would
have borne the $12.50 to $25.00 marks
at the opening of the season. All
the fashionable light colors are shown
—pink, light blue, lavender and white
Fashion says* “lace.” No one would
care to dispute her or to act contrary
to her mandate. Lace is indispensa
ble to the gentlewoman and she wel
comes the choice of lace as a means
of expressing her refinement. Ex
quisite lingerie, adorable summer
frocks, dainty chapeau, effective trim
ming of summer coats and wraps and
the thousand little refined touches
which only lace can produce is made
possible through Fashion’s wise
choice.
The lace is at M. Rich & Bros. Com
pany this week. Lace of every va
riety, suitable for every use and all
at a price which makes purchasing
an economical pleasure. The world’**
finest makers are represented by the
finest of their products.
There is a host of chances at
Keely’s to establish, replenish or ren
ovate your glimmer wardrobe. Lin
en voiles, unequalled for one-piece
or afternoon dresses, are priced at
19c. This mean*! beautiful graduation
gow r ns, ms dainty us the sweet grad
uate would wish, and frocks for every
occasion that a summer season de
mands.
A silk dress is a necessity at all
times of the year. Since the dayM of
the “best black,” silks have held an
unchallenged place in lady's ward
robe. The cool days in summer can
be met in a silk frock without a
frown. Vacation trips spare the ap
pearance of a silk dr«*ss where they
would ruin a lingerie or tub frock
in the estimation of its dainty
wearer.
Wool skirtings, admirable for the
camping outfit, at H9o, and a great
variety of wash goods at 25c. make
it an euaiy, economical and agre?abR
matter to clothe the summer girl
her little sisters and mother
Davison-Paxon-Stokes Company is
fully cognizant of the fact that a suit
has an unsupplanted place in sum
mer favor. For troweling use noth
ing is better and for the many times
when it is hard to decide what is
most appropriate to wear, a suit
soIvch the problem. That is the rea
son why they are offering splendid
values in lightweight suits this week.
With the names of the best makers
to vouch for their quality, these suits
are priced at almost Incredible fig
ures. For $20.00 you can purchase one
of these exceptional suits—exception
al in value at any price and ex
ceptional in price for any s»uit. .
There Is an absolutely incompara
ble sale of silk dresses at J. M.
High’s. These dresses are not me
diocre, but are unprecedented in qual
ity and price. To carry out the un
usualness of this beautiful stock of
imported designs, the price has* been
set at $S,95. This is a now lot of
summer dresses, with all the artistic
touches which sample lots are ex
pected to maintain. The colors varv
from the daintiest hues to solid, util
itarian shades.
A thou^ind women may take ad
vantage of the sale of skirts at High’s.
Solid colors, checks and novelties are
shown in wool poplins, bedford cords,
serges and novelty mixtures at only
$4.95. Ttfese skirts are Samples and
are worth from $9.75 to $10.00.
Frilly Fluffs for the Neck
Dne of the distinguishing spring
features lias been a suggestion of
originality in “neck fixings " Some
necks are cut nigh, and sqme low.
but the newest conceits achieve a
combination of both, a particularly
satisfactory arrangement for the
woman who does not want to give up
the comfort of having her throat
free, and yet wants to be modish.
It is probably boeaus'e this woman
is rather more than less to be reck
oned with that the neck ruffs, little
boas of net, and so on, have tak» n
a new lease on popularity. They
come and go, but this spring they
have distinctly come, and the neck
of nearly every wearer of a hat of
parts is bedecked with a bit of frilly
fluff that matches tb • hats domi
nant color tone.
Blouse necks are likewise frill fin
ished on their own account, and the
combination of high and low is well
worked out in them also.
In the drawing the neck of an ex
quisite gown, is shown, shirred into
a soft high chiffon ruche, which
matches the blouse. The other
drawing show's a slightly rolled
standing collar, which is high in the
back, and finished with a bow in
the front.
To Launder Underwear
The methods which bring snow'y
whiteness to muslin underwear bring
ruination to silk underwear, and the
laundress who does not understand
this fact finds herself in a sorry fix
on Monday night. Rubbing and
boiling and starching and drying in
the sunshine—-all tending to bring
cleanliness to muslin—must be avoid
ed.
To wash silk mesh and crepe de
chine underwear satisfactorily pre-
pare a suds of pure soap and soft
water, warm but not hot. If the
water is naturally hard dissolve a
little borax in It. Then knead the
silk garments about in the suds with
the hands until all the dirt is loos
ened. Put them In one piece at a
time, as they must bo thoroughly
kneaded if they are to be thoroughly
cleaned.
If they are badly soiled they will
need to be immersed in a second)
suds bath.
After they are clean rinse them In
two changes of clear lukewarm winter
und wring them gently dry. Hang
them out of doors in the shade, or
else in the house, in an open window
w here there is no sun. When they;
are almost dry iron them. If pos*
sible Iron them with a piece of thlrt
muslin between them and the troiw
This method prevents a shiny gk>»3
from coming to the silk.
Some person* And it better to 'let
crepe de chine dry thoroughly and
then iron it on the wrong side.
After the garments are Ironed they*
should he thoroughly aired befora
they are put away.
RHEUMATISM COMES FROM CON
DITIONS WHICH CAN BE REMEDIED
But Local Applications on the
Skin Can Not Get at the
Cause of Your Suffering.
Just a bilious attack and a slight
deposit of uric arid. Now. calomel and
similar mercurial purgatives do not
dissolve und expel the uric acid sedi
ment that forms from undigested, fer
menting foods, and when tills poison
ous acid Is not expelled It accumu
lates quickly, thickens the blood and
settles in Joints and muscles The
Joints and muscles then become stiff.
An attempt to cure this rheuma
tism must be directed toward remov
ing uric acid from blood and tissues,
breaking up the crystalline urates al
ready formed and preventing newr de
posits.
JACOBS’ LIVER SALT Is remarica-
bly successful in the treatment of
rheumatism. It dissolves uric acid out
of the tissues, holds It in solution, and
expels It in the urine. It thoroughly
cleanses the system of fermentation^
and purifies the blood. It will giwe 1
prompt relief in all canies of rheuma
tism resulting from uric acid* poison
ing
If you are suffertng wttb rhe*«Bnar
tisrn. try JACOBS’ LIVER SALT tir*-
mediately. It will relieve you mone
promptly ami surely than anythlngr*
else. Don’t take an inferior snbsti-*
tut©; some closely Imitate the name* 1
but none produces the same rewrft.
InsiPt on the genuine JACOBS’ LtvER 1
SALT. 26c If your druggist can not
supply you, full size Jar mailed upon. •
rereipt of prioe, postage free. Mad© ;
and guaranteed by Jacobs'
Company, Atlanta.
NEW SUMMER HATS
$5 and $10
It would be hard to find a daintier, prettier hat at any
price than these new midsummer models that we have now for
your choice at the very small cost of $5 and $10. Divided be
tween the summer favorites-—pink, blue and white—the only
difficulty is in choosing,for you will surely not fail to wish for
one of each color.
Fine hemp braids, veiled with French crepe and shadow
lace, trimmed with soft, crushable silk ribbons, dainty rose
wreaths and sprays, fancy ostrich effects and every graceful
touch known to the artistic fingers of our designers. Best
materials used, and best shapes assure becomingness.
They are all trimmed models, the newest designs of sum
mer hat fashions. Some of these are of a style and quality
that you have many a time paid $25 for. Select yours early
Monday morning—
$5 and $10
■••See Our Window Display
J. P. ALLEN & CO.
51-53 WHITEHALL
See Allen s Smart Dainty
White Footwear
Just as every well groomed man feels that he
must have a pair of cool tan low shoes during the
heated spell, so does a woman feel about-white
pumps, who wears white, wash or lingerie frocks.
While we do not expeet it nor do wo want a landslide like the one of 1911, when every
body overnight almost demanded white shoes, we do expect our clientele to wear -white
Pumps, Colonials, Button and Lace Oxfords very freely this summer. Since the now rub
ber sole idea or athletic effects have been adopted for general street wear, white low shoes
have just about doubled in popularity. We are showing, a very complete stock of both
rubber'sole and leather sole shoes, with low English heel, modified English heel or regular
leather or covered Cuban heels. It would be a mighty good idea to come and see the white
shoe show right now while you can have a choice of ail tlie new Allen styles, Allen ideas, in
white, and have them fitted correctly, without having to take a substitute either in style or
size. jutj t,.,.
JP. Allen & Co.