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L ady duff-gordon.
the famous “Lucile” of
London,* and foremost
creator of fashion in the world,
writes each week the fashion
article for this newspaper, present
ing all that is newest and best in
styles for well-dressed women.
Lady Duff-Gordon’s new Paris
establishment brings her into close
touch with that centre of fashion.
Lady Duff-Gordon’s American
establishment is at Nos. 37 and
39 West Fifty-seventh street, New
York City.
Bv Lady DUFF GORDON
(“Lucile”)
1 AM indeed glad that at last a
change has come over bridal
fashions, that the modern
spirit has permeated even that last
stronghold of conventionalized fash
ion. For generations the bride's
costume was never anything but
white satin and point lace. In fact,
this costume had become so thor
oughly a habit that no bride seemed
to think that she was legally mar
ried unless she wore it.
But to-day the picturesque fash
ions of the world have touched the
"bride, too, and I am showing you,
this week, a costume that 1 think
has all the charming charactertis-
tics of the present era.
And another thing, the century-old
pose held by the bride's attendants
is also changing. The maid of hon
or at a most chic wedding in Lon
don. where both the bride and groom
belonged to the highest ranks of the
nobility, carried a long shepherdess
jBFAUTY HINTS.]
\ Superfluous Hair.
Will u tell me if there 1* any way to per
manent!} destruv a disfiguring growth of super-
ilnoua ! ait on my face and amis? 1 am fifty-
live year* old and the growth is very bad. My
d.tsitf :cr. \'h<> ’> twenty-two. similarly troubled.
I bate born told that depilatories are worthless
and that nothing is effective except the electric
needle. widt h I heeitate to try . as 1 am told it is
painful. I should l*e glad if you would give me
your a Jibe. OHARROTTE K.
You are wise to avoid the electric needle It
Is a daigcrous operation, and, betides being pain
ful, ofter» leaves severe scars. I have frequently
-tated in these columns that it* is better to
endure the annoyance than to suffer tlic pain
of the electric needle. I have also warned in
quirers against depilatories, which are worse
then useless, because they cause the hair to
gn<w out thicker than before.
Recently, however, I have received some enthu
siastic and reliable repu'ts about a new method
(originating in Ja;*n) which ha* been tuccewfull;
used in this country. 1 do not know its name,
but a friend of mine who received a complete
i-ure by its use told me that she would gladly
furni.-h full particulars, without charge, to any
one who would write her.
If you will write to Mrs. Osgood. Apartment
.45 K. 118 East 28th st.. New York City, erv
lorfng a two-cent stamp for reply and mention
tg my advice, she will send you quite free of
,11 <xv? complete instructions which will un-
Jd'-btedly enable you to be permanently rid r*
4^ trace of the blemish. BEAUTY EXPERT.
of the Teeth.
My Secrets
Of Beauty
ByMme.LinaCavalieri
The Most Famous
Living Beauty
No. 227—The New Care
The Modern Bride in Her Sumptuous Robe of White Mat-
alasse and Pearl Tulle Attended by Her Shepherdess
Maid of Honor Garbed in Robe of Quaint Simplicity.
crook and held the bride's graceful
“fish tail" train in her left hand.
The gown I am showing you this
week is elaborate in design and
treatment. Formerly, elaboration
was not for the bride; she was sup
posed to walk her flowery way to
the altar garbed as simply as a
schoolgirl, her white satin made as
plainly as a convent uniform, high-
necked, long-sleeved bodice and lace
■veil arranged under orange blos
soms
This gown is created in exquisite
white Matalasse, combined with
white tulle embroidered with seed
pearls. It is the design rather than
the fabric that is daring for a bride.
There is an underskirt of soft
white crepe, edged at the bottom
with white silk fringe. This skirt
Is only glimpsed in the front where
the robe is slit. This robe, as you
can see in the picture, has the front
cut up several inches. The train is
very long and narrow.
There is, of course, some slight
drapery, and equally, of course, this
drapery is in the back.
The bodice, cut low, is entirely
of the pearl tulle. The sleeves are
a modification of the old angel
sleeve and are very graceful. There
is a high girdle of the Matalasse,
thus making one color line from
shoulder to slipper.
From under this girdle hangs a
wide panel of the pearl tulle, which
is exceedingly decorative and ef
fective.
And then the veil. In New York
Front
View
of Bridal
Costume
Showing
Veil
Thrown
Back from
Face, and
Elaborate
Panel
and Bodice
of Seed
Pearls on
White Tulle
I realize that the lace veil, draped
cap fashion under orange blossoms,
still holds, but in England > and on
the Continent, the veil of tulle, vol
uminous and graceful, is de rigeur.
There must always be a short veil
over the bride’s face as she walks
to the altar: this is thrown back as
she walks back with her husband.
Your brides of Southern birth and
breeding, I believe, still cling to this
face veil. It is a charming custom,
t think.
But of what real use is a lace veil
afterwards? It is kept, in many in
stances, for future brides; grand
daughters in New York frequently
wear veils worn by their grand
mothers. There can be just as much
sentiment about a tulle veil as about
an ornate lace one, and there is
much more art in the former, to say
nothing of the better taste.
And now to tell you of the brides
maid, her quaint costume and her
change of pose.
To do a quaint action one must
wear quaint clothes. Is not this
costume shown here the epitome of
quaintness? It is just a Simple lit
tle robe of pale pink chiffon, worn
over a petticoat of white silk mull
and valencennes lace. The scal
loped edges are bound with pale
blue, and the flowers in each scal
lop are developed in pale blue and
pink. There are clusters of tucks
to break the severity of the skirt.
The bodice is as quaintly simple
as the skirt. By the way, there is
a difference between simple and
quaint. Some very elaborate gowns
can have the quality of quaintness,
in this case, however, quaintness
and simplicity go hand in hand.
There is no embroidery, no decora
tion of any kind on the bodice;
just the scalloped bertha of the
chiffon edged with the blue, to match
the skirt. I particularly like the
Elizabethan sleeves, with their
shoulder puff and long “cuffs.” The
dainty finish around the hand is one
of the little touches that only an
artist could have developed.
The Juliet cap of chiffon and lace
is piquant and becoming. It has
tiny blue and pink rosebuds on the
left side, to match those on the
Watteau wand. The soft, crushed
girdle is of blue and pink satin.
T HE teeth are the
workers whose
beauty is in
daily peril. While the
other elements of bod
ily charm, such as the
eyes and the mouth,
may exercise their functions almost
with impunity, the teeth, whose office
is so laborious, sometimes suffer
from the temperature of foods and
from their resistance and composi
tion.
For this reason especially it is
necessary in making the toilet of
the teeth, every day, tb use prod
ucts in which there is not a harm
ful ingredient. Moreover, elixirs,
dentifrice powders and pastes must
not only be favorable for the teeth,
but also for the mucous membranes.
For this reason the examination of
the saliva ought to precede the
choice of a dentifrice.
In order that the teeth be beau
tiful they should develop on a regu
lar double curve, the line of the
gums forming a well ordered guide
for the teeth.
The lower teeth should fit precise
ly to the upper teeth, without any
gaps, for the lower jaw alone moves,
while the upper jaw is a part of the
bony structure of the face.
When our teeth are all in they
are thirty-two in number; sixteen
for each jaw—four incisors, two ca
nines and ten molars.
The “wisdom teeth” are the last
molars on each jaw. They need es
pecial care and attention because
usually they are not so strong as
our other teeth. They are, in fact,
vanishing with evolution, like our
little toes. As the race develops
its jaws grow smaller, and so there
are many mouths which really have
not room for the wisdom teeth. A
perfectly reliable dentist, if you can
find one, will tell you whether such
teeth should be removed from your
child or whether his jaws are suf
ficiently large to permit them to
stay.
The tooth in its hard portion is
made up of cement, ivory and
enamel. The enamel forms the su
perficial layer and gives the tooth
brilliancy. It is more or less frag
ile, according to the individual.
The acids attack the enamel;
hence it follows that some dentifrices
are quite dangerous and that some
fruits and acid drinks attack the
teeth. Persons addicted to drink
ing cider always have wretched
teeth.
The daily treatment of the teeth
consists of washing and brushing.
The tooth brush is a very important
instrument, which should be steril
ized both before and after using.
As soon as the bristles wear or be
gin to drop out it is time for a new
brush. You really need a new brush
once a month. In selecting your
tooth brush remember that it is not
simply to rub or polish the enamel
or remove the food from between
the teeth, but it is also intended to
stimulate the gums. Therefore, it
should not be too stiff.
In addition to the brushing of the
teeth every morning, they should
be brushed after each meal, so as
to remove all particles of food from
between the teeth. In this way all
fermentations and deposits which
are the constant cause of decay are
avoided.
If the children are habituated,
from the earliest age to take the
best possible care of their teeth,
tooth trouble will be -postponed or
prevented. Warm boiled water
should be used for children to wash
their teeth; adults may put into the
water they use a few drops of this
antiseptic solution: •
Thymic acid. ...25 centigrammes
Benzoic acid 3 grammes
Tincture of Eucalyptus,
100 grammes
Oil of peppermint. .. .*/4 gramme
It is not enough to take daily care
of the teeth. Care must be taken in
their, use. Never break anything
with your teeth and never bite on
metal with them. Do not eat food
that is either too hot oi; too cold.
Ites are as harmful to the teeth as
very hot brews. Do not, for in
stance, after drinking very hot soup,
swallow ice water.
There are all kinds of preparations
for the teeth, but, unfortunately,
many of these contain harmful ele
ments. Be sure as to what is in
any dentifrice before using it, and
see to it that it is adapted to your
You can tell easily whether your
saliva is acid, alkaline or neutral, by
putting your tongue on ‘a piece of
turnsole (thymus) paper, or blue
litmus paper. You know that acids
turn this blue paper reddish. There
fore, if this paper turns red when
put to your tongue, your saliva is
acid and you should correct this by
an alkaline tooth wash. If, on the
contrary, your saliva turns this paper
blue after it has been turned red by
acid treatment, your saliva is too
alkaline and an acid dentifrice
should be used. This is, however,
should receive special treatment
when such a condition is found. Go
to a good, reliable doctor.
No saliva is absolutely neutral,
but those dentifrices which have no
special action upon the mucous
membranes are termed - neutral.
Mme. Lina Cavalieri.
Their effect is only refreshing and
pleasant. Here is a neutral denti
frice :
90 per cent alcohol. 100 gramme*
Tincture of orris... 75 gramme*
Spirit of roses 75 gramme*
Among the alkaline dentifrices I
may recommend the following:
Distilled water.... 1 quart
Carbonate of magnesia,
20 grammes
Bicarbonate of soda.20 grammes
Add a few drops of oil of pep
permint.
The acid dentifrices are at the
same time antiseptic. Here is one
made with phenic acid:
Distilled water V z quart
Phenic acid 40 grammes
Add oil of peppermint to flavor.
Astringent dentifrices are excel
lent for stimulating the gums.
Alcohol 1 quart
Peruvian bk 100 grammes
Ratany root tinct.. 100 gramme*
Tincture tolu 2 grammes
Tincture benzoin .. 2 gramme*
Oil peppermint .... 2 grammes
Oil cinnamon 2 gramme*
Oil anise 1 gramme
Macerate the Peruvian bark and
ratany root in the alcohol for eight
days. Filter and add the tinctures
and oils. Let it stand for four days
and filter again.
THROW AWAY
YOUR GLASSES
How to Improve Your Vision, ami
Make Yonr Eyes Strong, Healthy
and Beautiful, Free Help to All.
Eyes that are weak, dulNer lustreless can ?
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The recent discovery of a distinguished acientisi
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eyes strong, you can secure eyes as radiant as the
Evening Star—eyes that attract and fascinate—
eyes that have the power to influence others— 1
eyes that people call wonderful. No belladonna,
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If you value your sight and wish to preserve
and beautify your eyes to the end of lift, send
your name and address to-day (stating whether Mr.,
Mrs. or Miss) wiih a two-cent stamp for return
postage and full details for success will reach you
by return mail. Address Professor Smith, Dep*
Aldrich BJdg„ R. K., Providence, R. I.
Copyright, 1913, bv the Star Company. Great Britain Uiffhta Reserved.