Atlanta Georgian. (Atlanta, Ga.) 1912-1939, May 25, 1913, Image 10

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/ 10 H TTEARST'S SUNDAY AMERICAN, ATLANTA, GA„ SUNDAY, MAY 25, 1013. For Milady's Wardrobe By MME. HAUTE MONDE. Net over a color makes loveliest of bridesmaid gowns always, especially for less formal weddings. A point, however, is that this .‘••eason the lining is not of charmeune bui a layer of chiffon. T’nder this, of course, i« worn one of the new Empire slips of chiffon that replace skirt and corset cover They are lovely' in their ele gant limpness a mass of fine hand tucks and broad entre deux through which wide satin ribbon is run, and look more like a princess slip than lingerie. • • • The flowered crepe voiles, with their quaint French posies scattered over the surface, have great possibilities for bridesmaids’ or attendants' gowns, especially for the summer weddings where a little of the cere monial aspect Is often omitted. Su perposed materials, In line with the futurist coloringH, give a good chance for splendid color effects • • • Three-piece suits of imported cot ton ratines with the correct fuzzy texture are at the same time thin and diphanously light weight. Such suits are something new. and any bride nhould certainly Include them in her wardrobe. They can be worn with equal propriety In town or at the summer resorta, so that they have a double use—a valuable eco nomical feature. • • • For soft and light gowns here Is a bit of useful information A slip of supple satin is often necessary to hold the ruffles and draperies. If. for Instance, a dress discloses at the lower edge a pleated flounce, the up per part being a tunic, the pleated flounce can be attached to the slip Instead of the tunic. • • • The brilliantly colored athletic coat that replaces this year the knitted sweater coat is another novelty for the bride’s outfit. Of lightest weight, yet thick and of winter material weave, these coats with their brilliant green, red or yellow hues are a wel come addition to any out of town out fit. * • • The cape, new’ In shape, that slopes aw'fty in a cutaway effect from the neck and is weighted on the edges by ruching, ruffles or marabout, is pret ty to throw on over the light even ing dress, and it is the fashion to have several of these • • • When the great question of the crash and girdle comes up for con sideration there is a decided empha sis placed on crossed lines. The soft ribbon, after being w'ound around the waist, is curved and crossed at any place that Is In need of this not© of color. The tunic is another part of the costume which can be used as an effective place for the crossing of lines The examples are everywhere noticeable, and a leniency is the chief characterist ic, which promises ihe right and becoming crossing of lines for all women. ton and wool signs are inui with not only trimming for in cretonne i colors and dr trim wool dr smartest little used for r eponge In novelty de li used in combination plain eponge hut as a silks. Pique, printed itterns and Bulgarian “signs, in alao used to •'“uses. It makes the » vests ami it is oft-n rs and cuffs. Tailored suits have bolero or etori jackets and broad girdle of a con trasting color. Buttons are much In evidence, and those of porcelain, ivory, tortoise shell or enamel are most favored. Striped materials are extensively used for street costumes. A Paquin model of gray and brown ribbed ma terial has a modified bolero Jacket, with revers, collar and cuff* of brovvr. and white checked silk. * • • The present fashion seems more than ever to seek to preserve a Ju- i venlle appearance to the feminine silhouette, and even to exaggerate. A woman very rarely pauses to consid er w’hether such and such a detail of her toilette will be too young, and the designers of models seldom think of creating anything specially destined for the woman in the autumn of her life. Every fashion is permitted t > ber no long as she has the wMt and the good sense to adapt it to her gray hair. Pertain lines of a costume in tended for a young woman may eas ily be modified, and the degired ef fect can be produced by a veiling of lace flounces, so as to achieve an "en- eemble" which will give harmony 10 a silhouette made heavy by age. • • • Evening wraps are developed of corded silk, chiffon or heavily headed 1 tfiet or chiffon. The handsomest mod - i els are draped about the knees and fsntened over at the side with a single button or ornament. • • • Silk is more popular than ever, but the weaves having rough sur faces. like crepe do chine, orepon and *tu6J*ore, are particularly lovely. Hep and silk moire are preferred to lib- erty and taffeta silk. • • • Neckwear gutmpes. girdles, hosiery and gloves, parasols and shoes art all painted from the dye pots of the Far East. The Woman who love? brilliant plumage will have no difti culty In satisfying her taste this wa gon. * * * The combination of fabrics is of the greatest importance this spring. Cot- V Buy Correctly Graded Diamonds Now Before Prices Advance Diamonds will unquestion ably be 20 j>er cent higher within tlie next few months. The average yearly advance by the syndicate is 15 ]>er cent. The l>est quality ad vances on an average of 17Vi j»er (’em. The new Tariff Bill will put another 10 per cent on them i» two months or so. While it lasts, our present stock will lie sold at the old prices qiMed in our current catalogue, and diamond book let. Every mounted diamond in our stock is marktsl plainly with its exact weight, grade, and lowest net price. Weights and grades are guaranteed. Selection packages sent on approval anywhere. Attrac tive monthly payments al lowed. Fall or write for our dia mond lx>oklet and 160-page il lustrated catalogue. MAIER ft BERKELE, Inc. Diamond Merchants 31-33 Whitehall Street Established 1887 Modistes say green will he the ”rag«" for women’s toilettes through; out the summer. In Paris whole frocks and xvanl- robes carry the one tone—that of bright lettuce leaves. Black suits at * trimmed with green; green waists and belts are worn, while the strik ing combination of a green taffeta gown worn with a red Jacket has been seen In "Rumpelmayer’e" stylish tea room, on the Hue Royal. • • • Oriental color combinations are worked Into some of the newest braids and fancy ornaments, and are used to trim the darker-toned coat suits and one-piece dresses of ratine, eponge and covert. In place of satin for collar and cuffs, much ben&alin will he used and there i* a decided preference for novelty eponge and ra tine. • • • The mania for the new silhouette is showing no sign of abating. The draping of skirt** Is more confined, bringing the fullness from the hips to the front, so as to emphasize the straight line and give the "1918 stylish droop.” The lower'part of the skirt Is now left quite plain, clinging closely to the figure, • • • Not the least detail of the summer blouse or wash dress is the very dec orative buttons that are used to adorn them. Few conventional round, flat pearl or crocheted buttons can he found on this season’s models. Instead the prevailing style for bright colors made its Impression even on the but ton, and they are to be found adorn ing blouses In all the kaleidoscope colors Imaginable. Jn shape, too, they have changed, and that Is not the least attractive thin*” about them. Some arc ball shaped, and around the center of th> sphere there is an ad ded ring of a contrasting color or ma terial. * • • Balkan blouse dresses look well on children of all ages and the prettiest models seen in the good shops are fashioned on this style. The thicker woolens and linens make up well in a modified fashion of this long walk ed style, and for the voiles, challies and lingerie frocks It is simply a question of introducing a little moro fullness to keep It from looking skim py. • * • In the toilet of the fashionable woman of the season, jewels abound, but mounted In an original manner, which is one of the things most typi cal of our epoch. The brilliants and pearls are placed in aiglets on the corsage and sometimes In the hair, lightly and artistically dispose.!. Bracelets encircle the gloves sewn discreetly with brilliants, and even in the case of a diadem they are now made without any heaviness, each stone mounted separately. ■ * • "Never have pearls been so mMch in favor, and if there are marvellous i necklaces and collars of them there are also a lot of imitation and false pearls. Many of our women of so- ! dety wear pearl earrings, and pearl buttons compete with diamond but tons and those of color. Indeed, some of our w\micn have adopted the drop earring© so becoming to the fa e and long since abandoned. Diamond necklaces are not worn any longer about the neck, but an epaulettes, a* are also the pearl dog collars. * • * The separate blouse Is still with us. hut so beautified this season that it can hardly be associated with the old-time "shirt-wa Ft” of the Ameri can woman. The French have trans formed the blouse, into its present mode a transparent bodice of the thinnest mousseline de sole, the only opaque material used being a silk sasli around the waist. The rest, the sleeves included, is absolutely trans parent—in some cases so much so as to indicate a wish on the part of the wearer to outdo the most daring fashion of the directotre period. Hose- tinted tulla bodloea with vary short sleeves are exceedingly popular Fashion experts predict that their vogue will increase as the season ad vances. • • • "The gold wrist hag Is the coquel- tish thing for dinners. It can he laid on the table or suspended on ttv» arm without inconvenience. On the contrary, it is rather an ornament, for its frame and chain are also con stellated with stones.” • • • The movement In favor to lower I heels seems to be making headway. Very few <f the fancy Fouls XVI. i jeweled or lacquered heels, which ! caused a sensation by their extraordi- i nary height early in the season, were seen this afternoon. At the same lime the classic cothurni or buskins, laced high on the leg, are more fash ionable now. • • • At a recent Frewh exhibit of new modes, the general tone was consid- | erably more sober than ever before i this year, which is interpreted as an indication that the time for the ex- i hibition of daring freaks is over, and that reasonableness is beginning to ! rule Paris modes. Let us hope the : reign of reason will reach this sec tion of the fashionable world In the I near future. • • • A charming gown which attracted much attention in the aforesaid ex hibit was of dove-colored tussor with basque and bodice of Alencon lace, and a bolero embroidered with Nat tier blue silk and silver. Face fell gracefully over the skirt from the waist as far as the knees. It was I shorter In the fr«yit than In the hack. raceful appearance to a Theater Gown Of Black Crepe de Chine A Stroll Through Shopkmd By EVELYN WREN. The e Is every opportunity for the June bride to complete her trousseau, furnish her home and remain happy. M. Rich & Bros. Co. have a touch of sentiment In her favor. They are making it so possible to he an eco nomical. practical bride that one can hardly find sufficient reasons for re maining in single blessedness. The old excuse of the costliness of mar riage has disappeared. There is still a chance for Miss Bride-elect to procure the daintiest of lingerie which arrived a bit too late for the May sale proper. The thir tieth semi-annual linen sale is still in progress and the bridal linens chest need know no lack nor the girl her self feel the inadequacy of her sup ply. There are exactly twelve Wilton . ug» for $27.50 apiece. These are the usual $40 rugs, 9 by 12. They would grace the new living room or dining room with appropriateness. Twelve brides can be happy. M. High Company has J. a stu pendous ready-to-wear sale. There ;s nothing more soothing to the procras tinator than to realize that she can, within a few hours' time, clothe her- self becomingly. Waists, hundreds of them, at 77 cents apiece are shown in oretty voiles, with touches of color, embroidery and lace. Suits of ramie linen, worth $15, are to sell for $5.97. Poplin and serge skirts, beautifully trimmed, are to go at $4.95. But best of all, perhaps, are the I dresses which High's are offering this week. White dresses, in elegant sim plicity. are priced at $5.95, $7.95 and $10.95. Mr. Bellah, of the ready-to- wear department, is evidently another one of Hymen's conspirators. There are 200 silk dresses for $9.75. These handsome gowns are worth I N this fetching model the bod ice is widely opened In square front and back and makes a kimono which shows the upper part of the arm. Five row’s of straps hold It over the shoulder and a beaded ornament finishes the small sleeves. The kimono is of headed macrame net. An effect of beaded black net girdles the bust. A huge violet rose com pletes the bodice. The same head ed net circles the hips, going up the middle of the front. The skirt is tightened at the bottom by two huge headed ornaments and is finished by a round train with beaded rabochon. giving a ° rj simple but rl cm A most original costum what daring for its beauty is thus described; lie, almost in the style dress, was of white »slgn of small and some- onspicuous The bod- of evening satin broche with bunches of roses J>\ ; in their natural colors. Tt ended immediately under the arms. from I which uoint the gow n of dull white crepe de chine continued as a per fectly simple furretu clinging to the j figure down to just below the knees. | where a series of folds, evidently boned or starched to represent the J petals <*f a rose, circled the skirt. giving the wearer the appearance of I emerging from tlie heart of a rose, j Dull green stockings and silk shoes. J obviously meant to represent the stem of the flower, were worn, while J instead of a hat the manikin wore 1 a tieht-fitting calotte of pink silk I I simply trimmed with a row of pearls j along the edges • • * ort coat* of all shades, reaching from back to front, are almost a nec essity for the modish costume of th» day, because of the flimsiness of the materials used for the bodices of the gowns. • * * Dressmakers are vieing with each other to provide tempting frock? for the young girls. They do not under rate the value of a trousseau in the near future, <u* the possibility of gowning th<' smart young married woman. Needless to say. simplicity is essential at this season. • * * Linen skirts for sporting wear, al lowing for a good tennis stride are a bit narrower than in former sea sons and have a high waist-line, and the coveted pocket. A pretty style is in khaki, with two pockets and a high waist-line, buttons on each hip. Another of wide wale pique, or cot ton corduroy, as it is called, has the natural waist-line. A natural color linen has little flaps buttoning over mar the hem. and buttons to the left front. The severe lines and fresh starchiness of these make them particularly attractive for office wear. A white eponge and a linen burlap In a black and white mixture, are two very smart models, having pock ets and the hip plackets. The rage for flowered cretonnes and cotton crepes, as dress materials. Instead of wall hangings, has brought out some startling effects; but, hav ing blossomed out in parasols, they seem to have reached their native heath. The great flowered patterns, catching the sun. add appreciably to the gayety of nations. All-color combinations are found In them. Handbags to match are made up very attractively. Summer Footwear There are women whose slender ness of ankle and wrist remain* un changed, no matter how much, avoir dupois the rest of the figure takes on, as years advance, but the aver age woman finds difficulty In keeping her ankles trim after thirty—especial ly In the summer time, when the high buttoned boot is exchanged for low cut slippers and pumps. If low footwear Is worn continuously through the summer it Is found that 1 buttoned booUs. donned in the au- | lumn. pinch cruelly unless the but tons are moved. As the ankle, spread because of its unconfinement during the summer, recedes in size, the boot becomes loose and another entire change of the button is nec essary. This trouble may be obviated if the buttoned boot Is worn at lea.st part of the time through the sum mer, and as such boots are now’ con sidered best form for street wear with formal costumes. a pair of dain ty patent leather ‘boots, with button ed tops of suede or cloth, will not only assist In keeping the ankles trim, hut will complete, one’s summer wardrobe satisfactorily. The white buckskin buttoned boots, worn with I white tailored costumes, are smart and attractive in appearance, and are comfortable, even on the warmest days. Such boots should always be worn by the woman whose ankles are inclined to spread In the summer, pumps and slippers being reserved for piazza or driving use, when the weight of the body is not thrown continually on the feet. The ankles of the woman who has been a good dancer In youth seldom grow clumsy as years advance, for the firmly knit leg muscles allow lit tle opportunity for a deposit of fat. Rising and falling on the toes fifty times night and morning, will help to harden the ankles and keep them more slender, and so will walking with the toe persistently placed on the ground before the heel. • • • That Turkish Sash I Cheruit introduced the broad sash tied around the hips in Eastern! line, and ties it there in a single knot. Used in this way it has no objection able features. It would be far bet ter to omit this sash from an even ing gown, although it can be imitat ed in an attractive way by fitting It to the figure, making it appear as a hip yoke and holding it in at the back in pleats, letting the ends drop to the knees. Done in black satin and weighted with jet tassels this kind of sash is a distinct addition to a gown of black net, which has evidently taken the place of black satin for evening wear this spring. Whatever else you do about this sash avoid the kind made of cubist ribbon in gorgeous colors, which Is tied about a white satin frock; and unless you are very young and have the style that can be daring, do not adopt the Eastern sash of Roman ribbon with a coat suit of black or blue faille. WC^TALC IS BORATED " v “ .'T'HERE I, no other Tal- ' x com Powder eo- eoft. eo . smooth, so delightfully , perfumed. Punt IO Cms a Bm miixd xrutt only to TALCum 1-wnr co. Twit*!* 352* * wl wrote MARRIAGE INVITATIONS CORRECTLY AND PROMPTLY ENGRAVED SEND FOR SAMPLES AND PRICES J. P. STEVENS ENGRAVING CO.. ENGRAVERS 47 WHITEHALL ST., ATLANTA, GA. from $15 to $22. Wash silk dresses, worth $17.50, will sell at $7.95. Shoes for the girl graduate and for the bride. They are In J. P. Allen Company’s shoe department. All the girl graduate need do is to specify the character of her gown and appro priate slippers will be se* cted. The bride-elect is peculiarly fortunate in shopping here. With a sample of each gown in her hand she can easily select slippers and shoes in just the proper colors and shades. J. P. Allen shows the latest cut steel buckles on street shoes. Twink ling butterflies now alight on pretty pumps. White canvas, w'hlte buck skin and while kid shoes are high in popularity. Keeiy Company has literally thrown the store open for the bride-elect. And yet they say that romance is dead! Embroidered linens for the indis pensable garden or tea frocks are to sell at $1.39. These linens are in delft, navy, sky and Copenhagen blue, oyster, pure white, pink, lavender, champagne and tan. Gloves—Kayser and Fownes—are ready for the hands which are to re ceive a diploma or wear a wedding ring The brides of yesteryear like pret ty homes as well as th^ enthusiastic brides of to-day. Davison -Paxon- Stokes Company have a collection of beautiful draperies. curtains and utility boxes that would freshen and cheer the most dingy rooms. The bright, pretty cretonnes bring the garden into the home. Novelty Jewelry The vogue of novelty jewelry Is still at Its height. Women who ten years ago would have been shock ed at the notion of Imitation Jewelry now revel In all that is pretty in the imitation Jewelry’s art. Among the adornments that are nowadays scarcely expected to be genuine are frill pins, earrings and the necklace that matches. Fashion dictates all three for the summer season, and that all three shall match. The frill pins are unusually long to accommo date the wide ruffles and jabots that a woman pins at her throat. They are to be found in platinum, gold, satin silver and mat black settings. Amethysts and topazes and all the semi-precious stones are worked in to light, graceful designs, and* sap phires. emeralds, pearls and diamonds are quite as convincing to the average beholder until she has heard their price. Jade is as popular as the cur rent use of vivid green might lead one to expect. • • • A little posy of colored flowers Is often thrust into the belt; sometimes a garland of them is introduced as a heading to the fashionable high belt. Evening coats for young girls are fashioned of the most filmy materials, nets, silk crenes, chiffons, embroider ed in silver, pearls and moonlight beads. The coat proper Is often set into a dee’> hem of brocaded satin or ribbon well below the hips, to give that look of restrained fullness which is a feature of the present modes. GIFTS FOR THE JUNE BRIDE At this season of the year, heavy demand.-' are made on one's purse by the numerous wedding gift? for the* June bride. If taste and discrim ination aic exercised, many beautiful and acceptable gifts may be pur chased for $5.00 or le»s. There are many beautiful and use ful and dietinctive gifts which can be bought under the $5 limit. If the bride is of n sentimental turn «»f mind and dislikes exchanging her gifts try to choose something which will not be duplicated or which, if duplicated, will still be useful. And always choose the present with some knowledge of the bride’s tastes and needs in view’. As foi choosing something which the bride is sure to like, that is some times difficult. Some young women with strong opinions and a distinct idea of what they want their house to look like after they have settled it have been really made miserable by the necessary presence of some kindly sent gift in their living room. If the giver avoids certain things she runs little risk of giving anything which will be really disliked. Pictures, for instance, are a bad choice unless something really won derful can be given. For $5. of course a very good carbon print of some standard work of art could be bought and well framed. But perhaps the bride does not like the "Age of Inno cence.” or Whistler’s famous mother or any other choice which you might make. Therefore, taboo pictures. Among the suitable $5 limit gift? are any of the attractive wicker lamps In the shops. Occasionally, at a sale. a $5 lamp large .enough to serve in living room or sitting room can be found; one for a dressing table or bedroom stand can always be had for $4. These lamps are finished in ma hogany and some of them have ma hogany bases; they are also finished in various shade* of brown and green enamel and stain and some are enam elled white. The shades are faced with silk or cretonne, which gives the lamp a defi nite color value, so know something about the color scheme for the house you are helping to furnish before you send the lamp. A white enamelled one with cretonne of blue, pink, green or yellow, as the ca6*e might be. would be lovely in almost any house, for almost any house boasts one bedroom with white enamelled woodwork and hangings and furnishings in white and blue, pink, green or yellow, as the case may be. Silk elbow gloves once meant only one thing, and that was silk elbow gloves. To-day those words mean many things. They mean plain, old- fashioned silk gloves which reach to the elbow’. They mean gloves with double arms, a meshwork of black silk threads beginning at the wrist and reaching to the elbow'. They mean silk gloves decorated with insets of lace and silk gloves with lace hands and silk gloves embroidered in con trasting colors and decorated with rhinestones and sequins. They also means silk gloves with narrow, scal loped and embroidered frills of the silk fabric running from the wrist to the elbow at the oi^side of the arm. BREN A U, The College Beautiful; Its Ideal and Its Attainments By Mary Carter Winter Brenau College, Gainesville, Ga.,is an institution with individuality. It has conscience and personality. Its beautiful grounds, handsome buildings and thorough courses are the expression of high ambition, devotion, and an educational ideal that recognizes nothing but the best. ■'Sn All institutions have their ideals just as individ- £lv uals have; and, as the ideals of individuals vary ~\\ in loftiness and strength, so are the ideals of institutions on varying planes. There is a tendency for individual mem bers of an institution to adopt the ideal of the institution, and this is particularly true of colleges because the members are in a formative period. X O' :— | only to the knees and widely tlrnpt Because of this plasticity of the student, it = is essential that she come within the influence of only the highest and most helpful ideals. The ideals of a College are relatively permanent: the individuals which compose the student body change from year to year. But each new group of students gradually assimilates more or less the idea! of the Institution. f/ud. The Brenau Ideal The Idea! of Brenau is refinement. Refinement means fundamental culture and not mere polish. The refinement idealized at Brenau is like the refinement of gold which has been through the crucible. There the refining fires have burned away all dross and the precious metal can no longer be tarnished. The word "Brenau" means “refined gold.” The picture of the Alcheknist molding the features of a beautiful girl out of sefined gold is a pictorial representation of the ultimate object of Brenau, to form a beautiful character which cannot be tarnished. Education at its best is a purifying process, and only incidentally a polishing process. Culture which is no more than skin deep will not stand the acid test of deep and trying human experience. It is the ideal of Brenau to prepare its students for such acid tests —the common lot of humanity. That this ideal has been often realized, the lives of thousands of use ful women in various walks of life in all sections of the country beau tifully testify. The process of attainment of this ideal is not easy to describe. Negatively, it is not an emotional process. The purification of culture is not a new birth. It comes by means of no sudden transformation, it is accompanied by no cataclysmic emotional paroxysm of the soul. Religion is a helpful auxiliary, provided it does not degenerate into fanaticism, which is sometimes mistaken for religion, and which is a worse enemy of culture than gross ignorance. But even religion is not a means of refinement. Some of the saints will be very awkward and uncomfortable when (hey don the shining robes and promenade in the streets of gold. Religion mellows and softens human character. It furnishes new motives and vitalizes human interests and enlarges the spiritual horizon. But it does not refine. The process of attaining this refinement of culture is like the process of refining the precious metal. Mixed with [materials of every kind the ore' is stored in deep recesses of the 'mountains and among the grave! beds of the valleys and streams. By chance, or design far beyond our ken, some is gathered here and there and in great, clanging, grinding stamping mills the process of elimination and separation begins. The resultant, unshapen. crude masses are then sent to the refiner’s crucible. Here the process Is slow and more intimate. Heat, the most powerful force in nature, is gradually applied. The erstwhile disparate and uneven elements melt together and become homogeneous, and in the process the dross and unassimilabie elements are easily eliminated. After a proper cooling season the refined and purified metal is taken from the crucible and is ready to be adapted to any form of service which its environment and the needs of humanity may require. As an ornament there is none more ornate; wrought into useful ar ticles for the home, there are none more prized; in the commercial world it fixes the standard of value; in science it is reserved for the most delicate experiments. If it is not pushed too far, the analogy is very illuminating and help ful. .The great masses of humanity hidden away in the recesses of the moun tains and scattered through the valleys and along the streams furnish the new ilia t eria 1. Whether by Divine selection or by a process of elimination for which no better phrase has been found than the "survival of the fittest." some of this ma terial, here and there, is selected anil placed in the great flanging grin,lino- stamping mills which we know as the public school system * K ' grlndlng Here the eliminating process really begins. When one considers the amount of material which goes in and the relatively small amount which comes out having survived the numerous jars and jolts and changes, one is Inclined to won-’ der if all the noise and tumult, the great expenditure of time and mont-v and en ergy are worth while. But really the schools render quite as great a service In eliminating the unfit as they do in preserving the fit a view of the case which critics of education might well consider. The material which the public school system furnishes the college is lack tng in homogeneity and is accompanied by much dross in the form of prejudice egotism, and other hindering traits. y J As heat is at the same time the source of greatest power and another form of the physical light which illumines the universe, so knowledge—real knowledge—Is the source of power and refinement and is the light which illu mines the soul of man. But knowledge is a means and is not to be regarded as an end v, , T h 1 en . d t0 . be achieve'! in placing the gold in the crucible is not to heat it but bj heating it to make it possible to remove the dross. If the ideal of Brenau has any claim to distinction it lies in its recognition of he fact that the acquirement of knowledge is merely a means to an end-and this end the elimination from the character of prejudice, of egotism, of un worthy thought and motive, and the adaptation of character to (he highest prac tical ends in the service of humanity, which is at the same time the sl?vi?e of HZ IJ M U I,