Below is the OCR text representation for this newspapers page.

r 1U D HEAKHT’S SEN DAY AMERICAN, ATLANTA, UA.. SUNDAY, MAY 25, 1913. For Milady '$ Wardrobe By MME. HAUTE MONDE. Net over a color make* loveliest of bridesmaid gowns always, especially for less formal weddings A point, however, is that till* reason the lining is not of charmeuse but a layer of chiffon I'nder this, of course, is worn one of the new Empire slips of chiffon that replace skirt and corset cover " * 'v are lovely in their ele gant li «. a mass of fine hand tucks . road entre deux through which *atln ribbon is run. and look mu like a princess slip than lingerie. • • • The flowered crepe voiles, with their quaint French posits scattered over the surface, have great possibilities for bridesmaids' or attendants’ gowns, especially for the summer weddings where a little of the cere monial aspect is often omitted. Su perposed materials, in line with the futurist colorings, give a good chance for splendid color effects. • • • Three-piece suits of imported cot ton ratines with th.» correct fuzzy texture are at the same time thin and diphanous'y light weight. Sum suit* are something new. and any bride should certainly include them In her wardrobe. They can be worn with equal propriety in town or at the summer resorts, so that they have a double uf*»—a valuable eco nomical feature. • • • For soft and light gowns here is a hit of useful information A slip of supple satin is often necessary to hold the ruffles and draperies. If, for instance, a drew* discloses at the lower edge a pleated flounce, the up per part being a tunic, the plea led flounce can be attached to the Hip instead of the tunic. * * • The brilliantly colored athletic coat that replaces this year the knitted sweater coat is another novelty for the bride’s outfit, of lightest weight, yet thick and of winter material weave, these coats with their brilliant green, red or yellow hues are a wel come addition to any out of town out fit. • • • The cape, new in shape, that slopes away in a cutaway effect from the neck and is weighted on the edges by ruching, ruffles or marabout, is pret ty to throw on over the light even ing dresa, and it is the fashion to have several of these * • • When the greut question of the crash am rrdle comes up for con sideration uere is a decided empha sis placed on crossed lfnes. The soft ribbon, after being wound around the waist, is curved and crossed at any place that is In need of this note of color. The tunic is another part of the costume which can be used as an effective place for the crossing of lines. The examples are every where noticeable, and a leniency Is the chief characteristic. which promises the right and becoming crossing of lines for all women • • # Tailored suits have bolero or eton Jackets and broad girdle of a con tracing color Buttons are much In evidence, and those of porcelain. Ivory, tortoise shell or enamel are most favored. • Striped materials are extensively used for street costumes. A Paquin model of gray and brown ribbed ma t-rial has a modified bolero Jacket, with re vers, collar and cuffs of brown and white checked silk • * • The present fashion seems more than ever to seek to preserve a Ju- I venile appearance to the feminine silhouette, and even to exaggerate. A ! woman very rarely pauses to consid- | er w hether such and such a detail of I her toilette w 111 be. too young, and the ! designers of models seldom think of t reating anything specially destined j for the woman in the autumn of her ! life. Every fashion Is permitted to! her so long as she has the wit an 1 the good sense to adapt it to her gray j hair. Certain lines of a costume in- • nded for a young woman may eas- v be modified, and the desired ef- ! foet can be produced bv a veiling * f lace flounces, so as to achieve an "en semble ’ which will give harmony .o a silhouette made heavy by age. • * » Evening wraps are developed of torded silk chiffon or heavily beaded; net or chiffon. The handsomest mod- *'s nre draped about the knee* and f-atoned over at the side with a single button or ornament. • • • Silk is more popular than ever, bu: the weaves having rough *ur- faces, like crepe de chine, crepon and tubfVire, are particularly lovely. Rep and silk moire are preferred to lib erty and taffeta silk. • • • Neckwear guimpes. girdles, hosiery and gloves parasols and shoes are all painted from the dye pots of the I’ar Ease Tip. woman who love? brilliant plumage will have no diffi culty In satisfying her taste this sea son. • • • The combination of fabrics is of the greatest importance this spring. Cot ton and wool eponge in novelty de signs are much used in combination with not only plain eponge but us .1 trimming for silks Pique, printed in cretonne patterns and Bulgarian colors and designs i«» a l»o used to trim wool dresses. It makes the ?!r.a”t*st ’ittle vests and it is often used for revers and cuffs - • • Modi* f » say green will be the ' rag, for women's toilettes through out the summer. In Paris whole frocks and ward robes carry the one tone -that of bright lettuce leaves. Black suits are trimmed with green; green waists and belts are worn, while the strik ing combination of a green tafTeta gown worn with n red Jacket has been seen In "Rumpelmayer's" stylish lea room, on the Rue Royal. • • • Oriental color combinations are worked into some of the newest brai l? and fancy ornaments, and are used to trim the darker-toned coat suits and one-piece dresses of ratine, eponge and covert. In place of satin for collar and cuffs, much bcngalin» will be used and There ; v a decided preference for novelty eponge and r*- t ne. * • • The mania for the new silhouette is showing no sign of abating. The draping of skirts is more confined, bringing the fullness from the hips to the front, so as to emphasise the straight line and give the "1913 stylish droop." The lower part of th^ *kirt is now left quite plain, clinging closely to the figur*. Not the least detail of the summer ! blouse or wash dress Is the \ «*®v dec orative buttons that are used t>» ado.n i them Few conventional round, fiat I pearl or crocheted buttons can b» 1 the prevailing style for bright colors! made its impression even on the but- | ing blouses in all the kaleidoscope I colors imaginable, they have changer the least attractive Some are ball shap< center of th sphei ded ring of a contra terial. In , and t birr 'd. and c ther sting < hape, tc that Is not about them, und the an ad- or m.i- Balkan blouse drr children of all ages models seen in the fashioned on this styl woolen? and linens rnak ssi-s look well < and the prettic good shops a The thick up well modified fashion of this long wait ed style, and for ihe voiles, challies and lingerie frocks it is simply a question of introducing a little more fullness to keep It from looking skim py. • • • In the toilet of the fashionable woman of the season. Jewels aboun ., but mounted In an original manner, which Is one of the things most typi cal of our epoch. The brilliants and pearls are placed in aiglets on the corsage and sometimes in the hair, lightly and artistically disposed. Bracelets encircle the gloves sewn discreetly with brilliants, and even In the case of a diadem they are now made without any heaviness, each stone mounted separately. • K ■ "Never have pearls been so much in favor, and if there are marvellous necklaces and collars of them there are also a lot of imitation and fair, pearls. Many of our women of so ciety wear pearl earrings, and pearl buttons compete with diamond but tons and those of color. Indeed, oome of our women have .adopted the drop earrings so becoming to the fa and long since abandoned. Diamond necklaces are not worn any longer about the neck, but an epaulettes, at are also the pearl dog collar* The separate blouse Is still with us. but so beautified this season that it can hardly be associated with the ohl-tlme "shirt - waist” of the Ameri can woman. The French have trans formed the blouse. Into Its present mode, a transparent bodice of the thinnest mousseline de sole, the only opaque material used being a silk sash around the waist. The rest, th? sleeves included, is absolutely trans parent—In some cases so much so as to indicate a wish on the part of the wearer to outdo the most daring fashion of the dlrectoire period. Rose tinted tulle bodices with very short sleeves are exceedingly popular Fashion experts predict that their vogue will increase as the season ad vances. • • • "Many women prefer rings to gloves They are wrong, beca un refined and really elegant persons wear with pleasure the glove th't fall? Into many wrinkle* over th*. arm. “The eoiri wrist %ag i» the coquet tish thing for dinners. It can be laid on the table or suspended <>n th arm without inconvenience. On th ontrary. it is rather an ornament for its frame and chain are also con stellated with stones.” The movement in favor to lower heels s«ems to be making headway. Very few of the fancy Louis XVI jeweled or lacquered heels, which caused a sensation by their extraordi nary height early In the season, were seen this afternoon. At the same time the classic cothurni or buskin?, laced high on the leg, are more fash ionnble now. • • • At a recent French exhibit of new modes, the general tone was consid erably more sober than ever before this year, which is interpreted as an Indication that the time for the ex hibition of daring freaks is over, and that reasonableness Is beginning to rule Paris mode? Let us hope the reign of reason will reach this sec tlon of the fashionable world in the near future. • • • A charming gown which attracted much attention in the aforesaid ex hibit was of dove-colored tussor with basque and bodice of Alencon lace, and a bolero embroidered with Nat tier blue silk and silver Lace fell gracefully over the skirt from the waist ns far as the knees. It was shorter in the front than In the back, giving a •’raceful appearance to a simple but rich dress. I N this fetching model the bod ice is widely opened in square front and back and makes a kimono which shows the upper part of the arm. Five rows of straps hold it over the shoulder and a beaded ornament finishes the small sleeve?. The kimono is of beaded macrame net. An effect of bended black net girdles the bust. A huge violet rose com pletes the bodice. The same bead ed net circles the hips, going up the middle of the front. The skirt is tightened at the bottom "by tw o huge headed ornaments and is finished by a round train with headed cabochon. Short Coats and Parasofs The short coat has really made headway. It la trying and many women will not wear K but thlr year the ranks of the converts have increased. This is probably because S I nther unusual conceits have been de- j \ eloped in the way of modified ctons i and in Jaunty Jackets with postilion 11 backs. In the drawing is shown a short jacket of white serge, worn with a coppery green creation, with kilted I underskirt. The other picture show’* i cretonne blouse edged with satin trim’ . The vest and sleeves are of I net: the skirt of plain eponge. That indispensable accessory of tho summer toilet, the parasol, Is featured this spring with a turned-back edge, and again with fullness gathered into the edge, illustration*’ of both fan cies being given in the pictures. • • • Summer Footwear There are women whose ?lender- ne.-< of ankle and wrist remains un changed, no matter how much avoir dupois the rest of the figure takes on, as years advance, hut the aver age woman finds difficulty in keeping her ankles trim after thirty—especial ly in the summer time, when the high buttoned boot is exchanged for low cut slippers and pump?. If low footwear is worn continuously through the summer it is found that buttoned boots, donned in the au tumn. pinch cruelly unless the but tons are moved. As the ankle, spread because of its uneonftnement during the summer, recedes in size, the boot becomes loose and another entire change of the button Is nec essary. This trouble may be obviated if the buttoned boot is worn at least part of the time through the sum mer and as such boots are now con sidered best form for street wear with formal costume*, a pair of dain ty patent leather pouts, with button ed tops of suede or cloth, will not only assist in keeping the ankles trim, but will complete one’s summer wardrobe satisfactorily. The white buckskin buttoned boots, worn with white tailored costumes, are smart and attrac tive In appearance, and are comfortable, even on the warmest days. Such boots should always be worn by the woman whose ankles arc inclined to spread in the summer, pumps and slippers being reserved for piazza or driving use, when the weight of the body is not thrown continually on the feet. The ankles of the woman who has been a good dancer in youth seldom grow clumsy as years advance, for the firmly knit leg muscles allow lit - th opportunity for a deposit of fat. Rising and falling on the toes fifty times night and morning, will help to harden tlie ankles and keep them more slender, and so will walking with the toe persistently placed on ; the ground before the heel. • • • That Turkish Sash Cherult introduced the broad -ash tied around the hips in Eastern line, and ties it there in a -ingle knot. Used in this way It has no objection able features. It would be far bet ter to omit this sash from an even ing gown, although it can be imitat ed in an attractive way by fitting it to the figure, making It appear as a hip yoke and holding it in at the back in pleats, letting the ends drop* ; to the knees. Done in black satin and weighted with Jet tassels this kind of sash is a distinct addition to a gown of black ne>t, which has evidently taken the place of black satin for evening wear this spring. Whatever else you do about thi? sash avoid the kind made of cubist ribbon in gorgeous colors, which is tied about a white satin frock; and unless vou are very young and have the style that can be daring, do not adopt the Eastern sash of Roman ribbon with a coat suit of black or blue faille. GIFTS FOR -THE JUNE BRIDE At this season of the year, heavy demand** are made on one’s purs* by the numerous wedding gifts for the June bride. If taste and discrim ination iuc f \iTclsed, many beautiful and acceptable gifts may be pur chase] for $r..o0 or less. There are many beautiful and use ful and distinctive gifts which can be bought under the |5 limit. If tho bride is of a sentimental turn of mind and dhillkes exchanging her gifts try to choose something which will not be duplicated or which, if duplicated, will stilt be useful. And always choose the present with some knowledge >f tho bride’s tastes and needs In view. As foi choosing something which the brid*- is sure to like, that is pome times Difficult. Some young women with strong opinions and a distinct idea of what they want their house 1 to look like lftcr they ha\e settled it have been really made miserable by the necessary presence of some kindly sent gift In their living room. If the giver avoids certain things she run.*’ little risk of giving anything which will be really disliked. Picture?*, for Instance, are a bad choke unless something really won derful can be given. For $5. of course, a very good carbon print of some standard work of art could be bought and well framed. Rut perhaps the’ bride does not like *he "Age of Inno cence," or Whistler’s famous mother or any other ch dee which you ipight make. Therefore, taboo pictures. Among tjie suitable $5 limit gifts are any of the attractive wicker lamps in the shops. Occasionally, at a sale, a $.'* lamp large enough to serve in living room or sitting room can be found; one for a dressing table or bedroom stand can always be had for $4 These lamps are finished in ma hogany and some of them have ma hogany bases; they are a!>p finished In various shade* of brown and green enamel and stain and some are enam elled white. The shades are faced with silk or cretonne, which gives the lamp a defi nite color value, so know something about the color scheme for the house- you are helping to furnish before you send the lamp. A white enamelled one with cretonne of blue, pink, green or yellow, as the cave might be. would be lovely In almost ary house, for almost any house boasts one bedroom with white enamelled woodwork and hangings and furnishings in white and blue, pink, green or yellow, as the case may he. Silk elbow gloves om ■ meant only one thing, apd that was silk elbow gloves. To-day those words ifieun many thing?’. They mean plain, old- fashioned silk gloves which reach to the e!bo,w. They mean gloves with double arms, a meshwork of black silk threads beginning at the wrist and reaching to the elbow. They mean silk gloves decorated vith insets of lace and silk gloves with lace hands and silk gloves embroidered in con tracting colors and decorated with rhinestones and sequin®. They also means silk gloves with narrow, scal loped and embroidered frills of the silk fabric running from the wrist to the elbow at the outside of the arm. Noveftu Jewelry The vogue of novelty jewelry i? still at Its height. Women who ten years ago would have been shock ed at the notion of Imitation Jewelry now revel in all that is pretty in the imitation jewelry's an. Among the adornments that are nowadays scarcely expected to be genuine are frill pins, earrings and the necklace that matches. Fashion dictates all three for the summer season, and that all three shall match. The frill pins are unusually long to accommo date the wide ruffles and jabots that a woman pins at her throat. They are to be found In platinum, gold, satin silver and mat black settings. Amethysts and topazes and all the semi-precious stones are worked in to light, graceful designs, and sap phire?, emeralds, pearls and diamonds are quite as convincing to the average beholder until she has heard their price. Jade is as popular as the cur rent use of vivid green might lead one to expect. * * * A little posy of colored flowers is often thrust into the belt; sometimes a garland of them is introduced as a heading to the fashionable high belt. Evening coats for young girls are fashioned of the most filmy materials, nets, silk crepes, chiffons, embroider ed in silver, pearls and moonlight beads. The coat proper is often set into a dee~ hem of brocaded satin or ribbon well below the hips, to give that look of restrained fullness which is a feature of the present modes. fashion hints Already the straw hat is seen every where; in fact, the smart Parisian considers February the proper month to discard winter headgear. The wnall hat still takes first place. It is made of some new soft straw not yet named and it branches out into sharp points at the back, front or sides. A favor ite trimming is the stiff tulle bow*, though the aigrette at weird angles continues to hold it?' own. For the new* coiffure, which con sists of a mass of hair rising from the back of t he head with a pyramidal ef fect, there is a special hat built out at the same angle to accommodate the hair The Japanese kimono gowns have brought in a sort of Japanese coiffure, the hair being combed to the middle of th? head, with fan-shaped bunches of. tulle on either side. A cote de cheval corded ?-ilk skirt is draped in long points and is worn with a three-quarter coat of .the same ma• trial, which has a belt under tlie arms, fastening at the front with a bizarre dull gold buckle. The collar and cuffs are of Bulgarian embroid ery, in which browns, reds and yel lows predominate. The severe tailor-made costume hns disappeared for the spring season. In place of the double-breavted coat have come the cutaway, the short renin- g>le and the shorter Directolre coat, usually of silk. Most of these have the roiling Medici collar, standing out f/om the neck and kimono sleeves with very large armholes, the sleeves t ftemselve* being ?'et in just above tno * Ibow. For Everybody, Everywhere For workers with hand or brain—for rich and poor—for every kind of people in every walk of life—there’s delicious re freshment in a glass of different and better in purity and flavor. The best drink anyone can buy. Be sure to get the genuine. Ask for it by its full name—to avoid imitations and substitution. BREN A U, The College Beautiful; Its Ideal and Its Attainments v— ^" * ft, siU h' By Mary Carter Winter Brenau College, Gainesville, Ga., is an institution with in dividuality. It has conscience and personality. Its beautiful grounds, handsome buildings and thorough courses are the ex pression of high ambition, devotion, and an educational ideal that recognizes nothing but the best. All institutions have their ideals just <ts individuals hare; and, as the ideals of individuals vary in loftiness and strength, so arc the ideals of institutions on varying planes. There is a tendency for individual members of an institu tion to adopt the ideal of the institution, and this is particu larly true of colleges because the members are in a formative periodU Because of this plasticity of the student, it is essential that she come - within the influence of only the highest and most helpful ideals. The ideals of a College are relatively permanent: the individuals which compose the student body change from year to year. But each new group of students gradually assimilates more or less the ideal of the institution. SN Ja W/ The Brenau Ideal The ideal of Brenau is refinement. Refinement means fundamental culture and not mere polish. The refinement Idealized at Brenau is like the refinement of gold which has been through the crucible. There the refining fires have burned away ail dross and the precious metal can no longer be tarnished. The word "Brenau” means “refined gold.” The picture of the Alchemist molding the features of a beautiful girl out of refined gold is a pictorial representation of the ultimate object of Brenau, to form a beautiful character which cannot be tarnished. A Purifying Process &L'\ Education at its best is a purifying process, and only incidentally a polishing process. Culture which is no more than' skin deep will not stand the acid test of deep and trying human experience. It is the ideal of Brenau to prepare its students for such acid tests —the common lot of humanity. That this ideal has been often realized, the lives of thousands of use ful women in various walks of life in all sections of the country beau tifully testify. The process of attainment of this ideal is not easy to describe. Negatively, it is not an emotional process. The purification of culture is not a new birth. It comes by means of no sudden transformation. It is accompanied by no cataclysmic emotional paroxysm of the soul. Religion is a helpful auxiliary, provided it does not degenerate into fanaticism, which is sometimes mistaken for religion, and which is a worse enemy of culture than gross ignorance. But even religion is not a means of refinement. Some of the saints wifi be very awkward and uncomfortable when they don the shining robes and promenade in the streets of gold. Religion mellows and softens human character. It furnishes new motives and vitalizes human interests and enlarges the spiritual horizon. But it does not refine. The process of attaining this refinement of culture is like the process of refining the precious metal. Mixed with materials of every kind the ore is stored in deep recesses of the mountains and among the gravel beds of the valleys and streams. By chance, or design far beyond our ken, some is gathered here and there and in great, clanging, grinding stamping mills the process of elimination and separation begins. The resultant, unshapen, crude masses are then sent to the refiner’s crucible. Here the process is slow and more intimate. Heat, the most powerful force in nature, is gradually applied. The erstwhile disparate and uneven elements melt together and become homogeneous, and in the process the dross and unassimilable elements are easily eliminated. After a proper cooling season the refined and purified metal istakeii from the crucible and is ready to be adapted to any form of service which its environment and the needs of humanity may require. As an ornament there is none more ornate; wrought into useful ar ticles for the home, there are none more prized; in the commercial world it fixes the standard of value; in science it is reserved for the most delicate experiments. If it is not pushed too far, the analogy is very illuminating and help ful. I Humanity’s Gold Send for free booklet* 3 Whenever you see an Arrow think of Coca-Cola. The" great masses of humanity hidden away in the recesses of the moun tains and scattered through the valleys and along the streams furnish the new material. Whether by Divine selection or by a process of elimination for which no better phrase has been found than the "survival of the fittest," some of this ma terial. here and there, is selected and placed in the great clanging, grinding stamping mills which we know as the public school system Here the eliminating process really begins. When one considers the amount of material which goes in and the relatively small amount which comes out having survived the numerous jars and Jolts and changes, one is inclined to won der if all the noise and tumult, the great expenditure of time and money and en ergy are worth while. But really the schools render quite as great a service in eliminating the unfit as they do in preserving the fit—a view of the case which critics of education might well consider. The material which the public school system furnishes the college is lack ing in homogeneity and is accompanied by much dross in the form of nreludW egotism, and other hindering traits. As heat is at the same time the source of greatest power and another form of the physical light which illumines the universe, so knowledge real knowledge—is the source of power and refinement and is the light which illu mines the soul of man. A Means and the End But knowledge is a means and is not to be regarded as an end. The end to be achieved in placing the gold in the crucible is not to heat it but by heating It to make it possible to remove the dross. If the ideal of Brenau has any claim to distinction it lies in, its recognition of the fact that the acquirement of knowledge is merely a means to an end—and this end the elimination from the character of prejudice, of egotism, of un worthy thought and motive, and the adaptation of character to the highest prac tical ends in the service of humanity, which Is at the same time the service of God.