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Copyright, 19)3. by the Star Company.
Or«tt Britain Ri^htu Reserved.
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Garden Party Costume of White Chiffon, Showing the New Hoop
Tunic and the Odd Girdle Tassels
L ady duff-gordon. the famous
‘‘Lucilf ” of London, and foremost
creator of fashions in tile world, writes
each week the fashion article for this newspaper,
presenting all that is newest and best in styles
for well-dressed women.
Lady Duff-Gordon’s new Paris establishment
brings her into close touch with that centre of
fashion.
Lady Duff-Gordon’s American establishment
is at Nos. 37 and 39 West Fifty-seventh
street. New York City
Two Sensational Costumes, Dt
signed for the Early Summer
Season—and Why Every
Woman Should Dress
Her Feet Handsomely
(ominA&ack
L
Side View of Rainy Day Costume, Showing the
'Freedom Given by the Buttoned Slash.
By LADY DUFF GORDON
(“Lucile”)
C AN it be that we are to have the
hoop skirt* with us once
more? That, after these many
years of oblivion, well deserved and
supposedly permanent, we are to
return to that really ugly fash
ion? Frankly I hope and think not.
Hut there is a tendency to widen
the skirts just a bit, especially when
they, are made of some soft, sheer
fabric and therefore, while I decry'
the Idea, I am sending you a picture
of a new hoop skirt that 1 designed
recently. It does not look a bit like
those broad ringed shirts that we
see in the old family albums, does
it?
The narrow silhouette is preserved
in a way, and really, we can wear
anything we want to, so that this
slender view is not disturbed. The
underskirt is a delightful affair of
white crepe de chine and Valen
ciennes lace. The overskirt is of
white chiffon cloth draped in a dex
terous and graceful manner, it is
the tunic you see that is hooped.
This tunic or peplum is of the chif
fon and in the hem is run the thin
nest sort of featherbone. As a rule
this stands out just a little way
from the body.
I particularly like the odd little
opening at the neck of the bodice.
The upper edges are pointed and
laced in such a manner that if the
wearer has any unsightly bone or
wrinkle it is hidden. This part of
the neck that shows is always the
prettiest part of a woman’s neck,
anyway.
The long sleeves in three sections
are new, and an
other novel point
is the girdle. The
long tassels hang
ing at each side
of the buckle are
" very unusual,
it is rather a
long step from
this hoopskirt to the slashed model
shown. Here are two views of the
same costume. It was designed for
rainy day wear. The slash is very
pronounced, but except'when going
Front View of the Novel Slashed Rainy Day
Costume Created in Rose Eponge.
'up or down steps, or when entering
one s motor it is not very apparent.
The costume is built of a dull rose
wool ponge. The jacket is very
handsome, I think. Its lines are so
7T2y Secrets tfSeauty-JjtyJke^aCmlieri.
Che TUost Famous
Jiving Seauiif.
No. 228--How American
Beauties Spoil Their
Charms with Bad Voices
By Mine. Lina Cavalieri
’HI NO in I lie world is so hu
A Friendly Scientist Showed
How to Cure It Forever
I WILL TELL VOtTPREE HOW TO CURE
YOURS, TOO
time 1 was mtrelv troubled b\ a j
of Superfluous Hair on my face
face was, indeed, a sight froiu the
exasperating growth,
and I grew almost to
hate myself for my
unsightly appearance.
There are many
things advertised for
Superfluous Hair,
and 1 think 1 tried |
them all but never
with any result, ex
cept to waste my
money and burn tuy
skin.
B it t. withstand- 1
mg all my years
of disappointment,
today there is not a
sign of Superfluous
Hair on my face. I
arms or anywhere
else. I got rid of it
through following'
the advice of a
f r i e n dly scientist,
a professor ot chemistry at au English uni
versity. The treatment he advised is so
thorough, simple and easy to use that 1 want i
jvery other sufferer in America to know about it.
It worked such a change iu my apin-arance and |
tuy happiness that 1 gladly waive my natural
feelings ot sensitiveness, and I will tell broad I . . *, . . . .
ast to all vho-ai. afflicted how 1 destroyed every ( OUt their tones belllg deep are llOt SO
trace of hair, uever to net urn. I „ .
If you at. a sufferer and would like to have OUeilSlVe ils tHOSe 01 1110 WOIDeil. On
full details, just send along your name (stating j ,
mbethel Mt> or Miss and address, and a two-cent tlio stage a r rt*iK‘li actress, taking the
stamp for return postage ami I will send you in
full detail the advice ami instructions which re character OI ail American girl, ill-
suited in my own cure, after all else failed. Ad- j ...
dress your letter m Kathryn Jenkins, 465BC variably speaks her lines in a shrill,
Wentworth Building. Boston. M
niiliiitiug iis to be a' graceful
and beautiful woman with a
bad voice. She is doomed to a life of
bitter disappointment. Men- stam
pede and scramble to meet her. and.
having heard her voice, promptly cool
down and efface themselves.
All l can advise about beauty and
charm may be offset by au unpleasant
voice. American women. 1 am sorry
to say. have the worst voices in the
world. Europeans always recognize
a party of American tourists by the
loud, harsh voices of their women
American men also sjteak too loud.
SOT I—Mrs. Jenkins, as her photo
graph shows, is a lady of refinement,
and for years teas well known as a so
ciety leader in IScranton, Pa.
scratchy voice. This identities her as
an American.
Of course a loud voice is one’s own
fault, like any other bad habit, and
easily cured as soon as one makes irp
tier mind to it. But many voices are
unpleasant . no matter how carefully
modulated. In such cases the throat
is largely to blame.
As always, beauty is based on
health, and a good voice usually is
sues front a healthy throat. Taking
care of the throat does not mean
muffling ii. Fur boas, thick mufflers
of any sort are the direct cause of a
goodly percentage of "weak throats."
The human neck is well supplied with
blood and is entirely capable of keep
ing itself warm under ordinary condi
tions if the .rest of the body is com
fortable. *
If you muffle the throat you in
terfere with Nature's scheme. In
stead of having the throat just warm
enough, it becomes too warm. Na
ture, having a choice of two evils,
quite often chooses both. For awhile
she super heats the throat, and I will
explain later what this causes. Hater
on she adapts herself to the muffler
nuisance and alters the circulation
and action of the pores so that in
spite of the muffler nuisance the
throat temperature returns to some
thing like normal.
This adjustment is all right until
some day you step out a moment
without any neck protection or per
haps a little hit of draught from the
window circles about your head at
night; then, of course, you have
caught cold, and the result is sore
throat, catarrh or tonsilitis.
Now l will explain how the first
evil, too high throat temperature,
makes trouble. To begin with our
mouths are peppered with germs all
the time. The best we can do is to
keep them within bounds; to banish
them utterly is imjiossible.
Under ordinary circUmstances the
throat is equipped with defenses
against germs, which makes way with
these tiny enemies ns fast as they
grow.
If anything disturbs the even bal
ance of tilings and the throat tem
perature rises many of the germs
ate able to multiply by the million,
just as a warm Spring brings forth
mosquitoes and other pests in un
usual quantities. The police of tho
throat are able to put down incipient
riots without trouble, but a general
uprising of the germs must be met
by calling out the militia, and we
have throat trouble.
Bel me say before I forget it that
many sore throats can be cured by
the application of cold, wet cloths.
Wrap them around your throat and
keep them there until they feel warm.
Then remove and apply others. Do
this half a dozen times, morning, noon
and night. The water should be cold,
but not necessarily ice cold. This
remedy should be applied only in a
warm room and must on no account
cause the slightest chill.
The cold applications reduce the
temperature of the throat long
enough to interfere witli ttie multi
plication of several generations of
Ihe germs. Being short-lived in au
active state, this reduces their num
bers temporarily and gives the sys
tem 1 au opportunity to get the upper
hand.
Antiseptics are valuable when in
(lamination is pronounced, but they
should be used only as a cure, not as
a preventive. Antiseptics kill germs,
but unfortunately they act powerfully
on the mucous membranes of the
mouth and throat. The membranes
recover completely from occasional
dosings, but the daily use of anti
septics of any considerable strength
results in permanent changes.
I think 1 may speak with some au
thority about the throat, for every
professional singer soon becomes <Vf
necessity quite a throat specialist.
When the throat is tired or delicate
the Germans suggest that it be kept
very wet. Some of these physicians
suggest that those w r ith delicate
throats suck ice.
Acid drops may serve the same
purpose, for they stimulate the saliv
ary glands. As affections of the
throat are very common it is well to
have some remedies that can be
quickly applied. But you must be
careful not to let a serious trouble
go too far before consulting a physi
cian. A little inflammation is one
thing, but when white spots appear
on the throat it is l. re to he on
guard. Mistakes may be made that
will increase the trouble instead of
diminishing it.
For colds and catarrhs use solution
of alum, or use a light infusion of
heads of poppies mixed with honey.
The best thing lo paint on the sore
throat is the following:
Oil of almonds, sweet. . . 125 grammes
Menthol 5 “
Garglilig with boric acid is safe.
But 1 much prefer gargling with
phenic' acid, such as the following
(Mackensie’s), especially if the affec
tion is severe;
Water 250 grammes
Glycerine 12 “
Phenic acid 1 “
If you are hoarse take two or three
limes daily a teaspoonful of the fol
lowing syrup:
Eryngium officinale.. 60 grammes
Boiled water 750 “
Allow this to macerate for two
hours, filter and add three pounds
of sugar syrup.
Singers who wish to have their
voices very clear and strong have
long used the following decoction—
five tlrope ill a glass of warm water
as a gargle morning and evening:
Dried squills.... 100 grammes
Red wine vinegar.1000 “
Alcohol 50 “
Allow lo macerate for fifteen days,
then filter
perfect and the little touches are so
unusual. There is a high girdle or
belt of the material that goes only
half way rouud the body; in the
front this girdle gives the effect of
pockets. The full sleeves are both
new, and a sign that we are to re
turn in part to the sleeves of a few
years ago.
In looking at this costume as a
whole there is a severity in lines
and treatment that I think very de
sirable for a tailor made. Even the
hat is severe, it is a small rose chip
trimmed with just a band of satin
and a bunch of small flowers.
With such a costume the foot
wear is very important and 1 must
give you a few hints as to what
your feet must wear
This season's styles are going to
bring footwear into greater promi
nence, and, therefore, importance,
than ever, so that is why I want you
to devote a good deal of your consid
eration and your cash to the matter
so that you may make a real success
this Summer.
So let me give you some hints as
to what will be best for you to wear
with your different toilettes.
To begin with, 1 am still iu iavu,
of the hoot or shoe which lia.-.
patent leather golosh and a wl
antelope or cloth “upper, &t
proclaim these as always sma
and suitable for wear with <
mades. Be sure, however, that t
shoes are not of the lace-up valet,
as they are so apt to look ihi.I.
the buckled shoe, where the but,
just curves against the instep at:
the silk stocking being much mor
becoming, as then all the lines ami
curves of the foot and ankle are fol
lowed and continued without a
break.
And when it comes to completing
afternoon or evening gowns of
crepe de chine or charmeuse, you
simply must have shoes made in
the same material and just finished
off with a tiny buckle to match, or
else one made in oxydized silver or
dull gold.
For evening wear, when it is, of
course, possible to be a little more
daring and decorative, you can
draw through the buckle a fold of
fabric in some other and vividly
contrasting color and then have
the heels tinted to match; this be
ing indeed a very good way in
which to repeat and accentuate the
color scheme of waistband or tur
ban.
How I Cured My
Grey Hair
I Will Tell You Free HotvTo
Cure Yours by a Simple,Sure
Harmless Home Treatment.
Age No Obstacle.
Don’t Use Harmful Dyes That Make
lour Hair Look Like a Painted Mop
LET ME HELP YOU FREE.
When 1 -was t , wenty‘-five years old 1 suddenly
turned gray, and at twenty-eight looked like a
woman of forty-five. I lost throe Rood i»o-
MitiouiH for no other reason tflian my faded hair.
Like many others, my elderly apearanee preyed on
my mind until I was a ph v ision I wreck.
One day my godfather, a famous chemist, asked
me to try a preparation he had perfected. I did
after a few days
ami de
find my
ting richer
and darker in tone.
Very soon it was
once more tho*
natural shade
of hii «lrl-
Ish days.
I am so de
lighted at my
success that 1 am
willing to send
the secret free
to any man
or woman whose
hair is gray. Let
me make it clear
that it is quite dif
ferent from the or
dinary' hair-dye or var-
uisb which makes time
painted mop, quite destroying its
hair look like ;
natural appearance and in many cases actually
killing the hair. My secret will enable you to
olor your gray hair to its original natural
Alin tie. I offer a reward of $500 to prove mv
statements.
If you want to reucw your faded hair and look
"’t.ng again simply send your name and address*/
• ating whether lady or gentleman) and inelose
a t.D"-Fcnf .-\irnp for potdage, and I will send you
nil detail- n i plain envelope. Address Mrs .
Mary K. Chapman, Suite 20& B, Gruevenoi 7
Building, Providence, 'ft. L
k