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HEARST’S SUNDAY AMERICAN, ATLANTA, HA., SUNDAY, JUNE 1, 1913.
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She Has Arrived!
The Bathing Girl
An Attractive Water Costume
Designs in Miss Milholland Explains Suffrage Advertising SCHOOL GIRLS
Russian downs'
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Many of the present-day night -
gowns are sufficiently elaborate to vie
with the test robes which every worn
an loves to have of the most delight
fully dainty styles. Simple night
gowns are in equally good taste, how
ever The neck or yoke line is quite
low in all, but may be either square.
V shape, or round, and is the same
in the back.
Some of the nightgown? show the
siitted line from the floor to ebon* *
the ankle, just as the dresses are
made. Many of the gowns are
tirely of lace, ribbon, and embroidery
up to the high bust ceinture. Th«
sleeves are more than abbreviated,
measuring scarcely more than five
Inches from the shoulder to the low
er edge: sometimes less.
• • •
Well cut petticoats are ail import
ant with the tight skirts, for if an
inch too full the dress will suffer
from it. For evening wear the crepe
de chine skirts which have been in
best taste are displaced, or, rather,
rivaled, by the chiffon petticoats.
These are of white, pink, blue, or
maize, -ither to harmonize with the
gown or to match it. Medallions of
lace are inserted, and some with the
Van Dyke points are especially pret
ty. Th« creamy tint of torchon is
charming with the white crepe de
chine. Ribbon flowers are often ad
ded. especially to thono made of
shadow lace. These, when well
made, have an under ruffle of net,
accordion plaited.
* » •
The trousseau negligee of pale ajnk
oi pale blue crepe do chine is match
ed by a crepe de chine petticoat, gar
nished with delicate festoons of silk
roses. Any girl tan make such a
petticoat for herself and save the sub
stantial sum asked for such luxurious
fripperies the shops. Two yard*
of 36-Inch crepe de chine will mak*
the petticoat, which /nay be cut by
an ordinary two-gore skirt pattern
having seams at the sides. Mark
the lower edge in broad, but rather
shallow, scallops; say, four to the
front breadth and four to the back
each scallop measuring about nine
Indies from tip to tip. Edge the
scallops with a frill of lace and place
underneath a deeper flounce of lace.
Tack a tiny chiffon rose against the
petticoat at the upper point of each
scallop.
• * •
The very latest jabot is long and
narrow, and is attached to a band of
ribbon which is 3et at the head of a
pleated lace frill. Such a Jubot may
be worn over a number of frocks, foi
its adjustment is very easy, by means
of the ribbon band which forms the
collar. The model pictured Is of
white net edged with very flne St.
Gall embroidery ii, a lacy pattern; the
frill around the neck being made of
the same embroidery. The collar
band is an Inch wide strip of blue
velvet ribbon with a flat, elongated
bow at the front.
• • •
The bead handbag?, which were
fashionable In the 1836 epoch and
which saw their popularity prolonged,
until after the time of Louis Philippe,
have come back to us with all the
charm to be found in relics of other
days As a matter of fact the really
< M handbags are the most sought af
ter.
Purses and handbags may be found
which have as much success in the
fingers of the smart woman of 1913
as had those of our grandmothers.
Perhaps they contained the same se-
i rets, but it Is probable, however, that
the paraphernalia of coquetry that
they hold Is more complicated to-day.
• * •
White has an ever increasing vogue
for summer, and there is a greater
choice than ever in materials. In
the new sponge fabrics there arc the
cotton nod new silk weaves. Some
of the silks have a tiny figure printed
In colors, and these may be also used
to trim other white materials advan
tageously.
Then there are the heavy white
silk tissue very supple, that have a
corduro/ weave « i d also make splen
did tailor made suits. There is a
velours de cotton material used, but
this is fai from being like the cotton
velvets, for it is quite different, hav
ing a sort of silk reflection.
• • •
With tailoi made? the Derby glove,
with heavy black stitching, is being
very much worn just now These
gloves are ijow made in washing cas
tor. either yellow or white, and it
seems that they are quite easily
cleaned with soap and water.
* * •
Among the fabrics that are shown
for evening wraps one finds a won
derful fascination in the choosing of
sumptuous tissues and marvellous
•brocades with heavy traceries of sil
ver and gold thread. In certain
realms the supple silky fabrics have
to a certain extent, ousted the more
robust materials. Silk suits are re
markably popular, and as they need a
certain degree of firmness, many new
weaves have been devised specially
for this section of the well-dressed
woman’s wardrobe.
• • •
The formal receptions of an earlier
season are giving place to the dance
so that a new mv*de of dress has been
originated. Women, however, find
the present day styles so adorable
ihat their unwillingness to give them
up has been responsible for the devel
opment of some of the loveliest crea
tions. When dancing with narrow
skirts, it is not only, advisable but
really necessary to have some ar
rangement to permit more freedom of
movement.
Greater width is introduced in the
new skirts, but so skillfully is it done
’hat the slender outlines are still with
is. and the dancer's steps are per
formed with rare grace.
• • •
Just at this time much Interest at
taches to the hem of the dress No
longer is it essential to have it an
even length all the way round. No.
the charm of the skirt to-day lies in
the irregularity of the hem. for when
draperies are in vogue it is easily seen
that curves and not straight lines will
ail. Another factor that is re-
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By OLIVETTE.
The bathing suit is now the subject of much earnest dis
cussion. Here is a very fetching model that can be carried out
in any color scheme you like.
The girl who has a variety of bathing costumes will do well
to copy this cool blue and white model exactly.
White satin for the foundation, and blue and white—or
black and white striped wash satin will make a suit like the
one pictured. The ^irl who is considering expense can procure
black mohair and the striped wash satin and have an original
suit at about $2 total expense.
The sleeves and underarm are cut in one—kimono fashion
—front and back of the waist are made in plain panels, and
with yoke and belt of the striped silk; the skirt has inset pan
els of the same.
The lingerie beach parasol, bandanna bathing cap and
bathing shoes and stockings in contrasting shades arc the little
dainty touches that add so much to the effectiveness of a cos
tume.
Splashfs of emerald green and royal
blue on supple white satin, shining
metal squares making u checkerboard
trimming and old blue cameos clasp
ing the drapery or forming a girdle
are a few of the audacious effects
produced In the new Russian gowns
which Paris already has seen and
which were shown in this country for
the first time yesterday.
Leon Bakst is daring and original in
tile designs which are exhibited amid
surroundings entirely Russian. Hav-
ng associated himself with Mme.
' iquln, the exile from the land of tfie
’/nr already has gained renown in
i wider and different sphere than
when he gave his attention almost
wholly to creations for the Imperial
theaters In Moscow and St. Peters
burg, and particularly for the Rus
sian ballet.
Imagine a delicate white satin brid
al gown without a train and worn
with a veil reaching scarcely to the
shoulders! Yet that is what Bakst
has exhibited in New' York as his
conception of what the June bride
should wear. The skirt tou<*hed in
the back and rounded at the sides
and front, opening several inches
above the ankle. Hand-scalloped
batiste put on in curved lines formed
the trimming and over this was a
Cossack shirt, creamy white, of spot
ted net. Worn with this was a pearl
Russian headdress from which fell
the scant veil of tulle.
And Instead of Introducing a brides
maid’s costume of pink, blue or yel
low. this daring originator of fashion
offered a striking white satin gown
with royal blue overdress, green
trimmings on the sleeves and skirt
and a slashed skirt.
That he does approve of trains on
some costumes was shown in the
other models, one of which had a
square Oriental panel down the front,
with a slash at either side, and a
train like the tail of a kite and a
metal girdle of alternating black and
white squares. Two large oval cam
eos of pale Wedge wood blue with del
icate white figures ornamented the
skirt and waist of the “robe Aglae.”
Fashions of Future
A French costumer has prephesied
that in the fashions of the future
there is going to be an ever increas
ing line (if demarcation between the
day dress of women and that worn in
the evening, brought about by th«
evolution of woman’s place in mod-
< rn life. This indeed is quite possi
ble, for the reaction has already set
in. Evening dress is worn with
much greater ease and frequency by
even ihose who used to leave it to
those of ample time and moans, and
has brightened up the public restau
rants and theaters delightfully.
Trig tailored clothes are the rule
for daytime wear, beautiful draper
ies make evening gowns, and last but
not least among fashion changes is
the almost universal fashion now of
wearing negligees and lounging
gowns in the house. The kimono has
held women in its thrall by the com
fort and tlie facility with which it
can be slipped on or off. It was.
however, too negligee in cut for a
lounging gown, so that through the
last few seasons varied types of iri-
door negligee gowns on quite other
lines have been steadily gaining in
vogue.
“We Show That We Stand for a Square Deal”
sponsible for the irregular hem is the
passion for dam-inn which Is now the
rage everywhere.
* • •
The colors that are being put to
gether. particularly for evening ef
fects, are so startling that they would
be crude were the materials not so
soft. Couturiers are so mad over yel
lows that they ate putting it With
turpuoise. cherry, flame, coral, in fact
any dye as long as it is contrasting
enough. Sulphur- one of the modish
shades of yellow—in some instances
is put with amethyst. In one case the
evening dress was entirely of char-
meuse, except the big. loose ceinture.
which was of violet satin. The fichu
decolletage was trimmed in amethyst
stones, and the ensemble was ex
quisite. *
* • *
A late trimming for tailor-mades
and for afternoon and evening dresses
is that of ostrich feathers, bought by
the yard. The spirals are only an
inch or two wdde, and one layer is
put on the other very dainty. One
may buy such a trimming in any
thing from a few inches to half a
yard wide. When put on tailor-mades
of the dressy genre the rever is out
lined in the plumes, also the cuffs or
the pockets. The garnish may he had
in all colors a la mode, yet as fashion
demands contrast the plumes of dif
ferent dyes are put with opposite ef
fects
• • •
Plaiting is becoming more in vogue
all the time. It is indicated on the
Bulgarian or Russian blouses, where
the plaits open, or at least they had
lately been tight knife plaits. A stun
ning black satin eharmeuse had a
back, postilion shape, made into a
kind of ruffled plaiting that extended
more than half a yard below the
waist-line. Speaking of postilion
backs, they are very modlst, coming
from a front that is half Eton. The
half-jacket in that case is made with
or without a belt. When with a belt,
the plaits hang from the waist-line.
With such effects, the best belt or
ceinture is that of soft or patent
leather, from a few inches to a quar
ter of a yard in width.
• • *
These laces are reproductions from
the renaissance period or from de
signs from the Near East, which lend
themselves admirably to decorative
effects. The little, short coat, round
ed in front to display a waistcoat, is
as much patronized in cotton or linen
as it has been in serge or silk with
brocade
little costumes being cut on the most
simple lines. Skirts are not neces
sarily tight; t-hey are draped in long
folds*, with a pleat or two inserted
as a decoration, and much favor is
shown to the skirt in the fashion
which is held by large bone buttons
and worn along with a small, short
coat In pique, ratine or cotton jac
quard.
• * •
Well-dressed women will find im
mense satisfaction in the cotton stuffs
which are offered for her selection.
A cotton season will be warmly wel
comed, for not only will young figures
be carefully studied; so well cut and
made are models of to-day that any
matron may readily don those cool
and comfortable costumes.
First favor will, or course. M* given
to the useful coats and skirts In linen
or ratine, many of them with inset
bands of thick linen or cotton lace.
* * *
"Many women prefer rings io
gloves. They are wrong, because
refined and really elegant persons
wear with pleasure the glove th.\t
falls Into many wrinkles over the
arm.
* * *
The new sailor hats come under the
head of the medium-sized millinery,
and they are often jauntily tiptilted
on the head by means of a bandeau
into a becoming angle* with the face.
On this band under the brim a small
flower wreath, a cluster of roses, or
knots of ribbon are posed, w hile per
haps the crown i?* simply banded by
a strap of velvet or of swathed satin,
or. if bowl shaped entirely draped
in satin material. Another striking
trimming is a wide red or orange
band about a dark-colored hemp sail
or with two of the new outspread
wings matching in color, posed In
windmill fashion, one pointing down
ward while the other points up.
* • *
Turkish coloring** in Bagdad effects
are very rich for a touch in trimming
of dresses, but not as much as is
being employed in Paris, for the effect
of Oriental stuffs is always heavy
and hard. Sometimes kimono sleeves,
or big. loose oeinturos. are of this
material. The latent thing is to em
broider tulle and moussellne in Turk
ish designs, and only those are ac
cepted that are fearfully coarse an 1
heavy. Effects are undoubtedly rich
and seductive, but they are far from
summery and diaphanous.
Tan shoes, which hav* been rather
i abandoned, are about to make their
■reappearance. Even this winter the
i boots with fan to; s ami patent leath
er vamp?* have foretold their re
appearance. The uppers remain dif
ferent in striped material, yellow
and white, gray and white, accord
ing to the color of the shoe. They
are light and agreeable to wear anil
easier to keep in order than antelope
or doeskin. Many shoes have straps,
the derbies buttoned on the side in
antelope kid and black patent leather
with horn buttons.
* * *
I.eghorn is used for most of the
very larse picture hats, and they are
artistic shapes' that seem to have been
copied from the paintings of Wat-
term or Fragonard In coloring as well
as in shape.
...
Tulle, most vaporous of all fabrics
that appear in fashionable millinery
each spring, is to have unusual suc
cess this summer. Al! the latest im
ported millinery models show some
decorations of it. Sometimes it will
be only a simple ruffled edge, some
times the tulle veils the hat so that
the straw shows but dimly through
the gathered folds of maline. Since
this flinty net fabric has been per
fected by manufacturers it is not so
fragile. Before the art of making it
more impervious to rain and damp
ness lmd been discovered, tulle was
t*o great a luxury to seriously oo-
come the style to any great extent,
but now that it will stand a lot of
hard wear it has become fashionable.
• • •
Beads and bugles and pearls and
rhinestones are used in ornamenting
the more elaborate summer evening
costumes quite as much as they were
during the winter. Wonderful chiffons
and tulles embroidered In these bril
liant. effects are still to be seen
while pearls are used on many of the
simpler frocks.
Elaborate lingerie dresses this sea
son are almost exclusively of em
broidered batiste combined with real
laces of the heavier varieties, such
as coarse filet, clumy, Venise, and
d’Alencon. Or they are of net with
shadow lace or other flne weaves
combined with the embroidered ba
tiste.
English eyelet embroidery, which
early in the season appeared to have
suffered a setback, has been coming
Into favor again in Paris. It is now
show n more frequently in batiste than
In linen and is elaborately embroid
ered as well as “eyeletted.”
• * •
In the lingeries of the last winter
Torchon and Cluny laces were so lit
tle used that it seems odd to find
them coming to the fore for summer
wear. In some instances Irish la'e
is chosen, and both French and Ger
man “Val” are also used. Shadow
| lace is much in vogue for underwear,
entire garments—even nightgowns—
i being made of it. It is imitated, too.
!in woven silk shirts called “shadow
! lace shirts.’” In the French hand-
j made underwear and the best domes-
| tic goods used are nainsook, batiste,
j handkerchief linen of the sheerest
quality, and crepe de chine. The lat-
j ter is the material used for the
plainer nightgowns and for petti-
“We Suffragists Have a Commod
ity to Dispose of, Service We
Can Render the State.’
11( ipi inp2ilia taotn eiaoin (igoinnn
NEW YORK, May 31.—Anert dis
cussion of the recent .*•■uffr igists' pa-
i;.cJe and cor.(>nurr*ll in it: som quar
ter- of the general methods of the al-
vocutes of the cause, Mi3s Inez Mil
holland. one of the leaders of the
might..* movement, lias explained
everything in a special article. It
follows:
By INEZ MILHOLLAND.
We suffragist** have a good com
modity to dispose of—the v rvice we
can rend< r the State .ms voters—and.
that being true, wo do what every
holder of a good commodity does—
W’e advertise it.
We have megaphoned, “sandwich
boarded.” tree-planted, ‘ hiked,” talked
in the halts of lav-makers, the draw
ing rooms of fashionable ladies and
the sidewalks of th East Side. We
have tried to keep our question stead
ily before a hurrying public, ever
doing our simpler work beneath the
hi.“s and drone of the calciums. We
nave put fofward our propaganda In
pageants and In parades.
* At tir.-r our opponent** said we were
“dowds,” “frumps” and repellent
creatures, anxious for attention be
cause we were without attraction for
the masculine sex. Now they criti
cise us for being becomingly gowned
and criticise us for making a “sex
appeal.”
When men oarade they are not ac
cused of making a “j* \ appeal,” al-
Miss Inez Milholland, snapped as sbe
famous Washington suffrage parade.
rode as a herald
the
though they pay more attention to
their uniforms and general appear
ances than we do. In our ranks were
a very significant number of happy,
healthy, red-blooded, joyous women.
But now to other things. Political
justice is more important than parted
skirts of Paris styles. Let us con
sider soem of the deeper points of
our recent parade and the finer prin
ciples that we stand for.
Advertising is but attracting the at
tention of the consumer. The public
mind is as susceptible as a photo
graphic plate. When positive pictures
are flashed before it it will record
them and thereby change its own na
ture. Psychology tell9 us that to
arouse interest attention must be
concentrated. For instance, a man
might observe a quiet landscape plac
idly and unemotionally, with his at
tention spread over the whole field
of his vision, but let a moving ob
ject, such as a horse, a deer, or a
pink parasol, appear on that land
scape. and his wandering attention
is focused and centered. He becomes
stimulated and curious and prone to
act.
However, by advertising we not
only win public attention; we also ed
ucate and develop ourselves. Es
pecially is this true in the parade.
Many a woman, who marches in the
cause of woman suffrage knows what
it is for an ideal and for a princi
ple to master a shrinking nature, to
endure fatigue, to overcome the ob
jections of family and friends.
We show* ourselves as well as the
public that we are not made of slight
and subtle stuff. The last parade
was a hot and weary walk. Its man
agement was an executive problem.
But the end and reward of it all
was another victory for the cause we
love and ap esprit de corps in our
own ranks in comparison with which
any inconvenience to ourselves* and
jibes of our enemies must seem un
substantial.
Nothing better -than a suffrage pa
rade illustrates the truth that figures
leave much to be told; often the real
message and meaning of what is
numbered* by these figures. For in
stance, I should never compare, in
the number of marchers, a suffrage
parade with the parades of one of the
present political parties, for the sim
ple reason that one woman parader
represents in initial enthusiasm about
lour men. Men have grown surpris
ingly boied with and weary of the
active duties of citizenship, and when
they march they are pushed into line
by district leaders, business and pol
itical bosses and others in authority
over them
Women, on the other hand, have In
many cases to take the bit in their
teeth and fight against all those in
authority over them. At first every
woman 1 as to just make up her mind
and hold her breath and step off the
curbstone. And then comes the still
ing of every qualm, the forgetting of
all opposition and unkind remarks in
ihe real *atlsfactic n of knowing that
you hav> come out of the twilight of
indecision, have declared your faith
in the open and answered, according
io your strength, when called by your
sisters »o join their fight.
When the parade was over the
other day I noticed a little group of
marchers on upper Fifth Avenue.
Three them w. re laushing arid two I
of them were energetically talking.
"What :tre you doing parading? j
slightly sheepish-tooking woman m
one asked »n surprise of another 1
slightly sheepish-looking woman.
“You know' what you were saying to
John about women that rparcheu and
showed themselves off.”
“Yes, I know all right w hat I sairi
to John,” replied the other woman,
“but when I saw you all marching by
I felt like a quitter. I found myself
marching, too; I just couldn’t help
it.”
I did not know that woman, but I
was glad to hear her say what she
did. Mary women may not have fol
lowed her example, but others must
have felt something stir pretty close
to the heart as they watched those
long-passing lines of white-clad, de
termined women. If I knew who the
woman was who made that remark
I would write her a letter and thank
her for the personal pleasure she gave
me. At the time I was too tired to
do anything.
Our parade was to make people
think. Every section was arranged
with this end in view. We laid no
emphasis on the lesser things which
so easily*-fill the moment, but so sure
ly fade with tim Our object was to
give a thorough, rational training to
those whe would only run. and read
while running. Instead of idly cheer
ing, we preferred to make the by
stander join our ranks, as did the
woman whom I overheard, or else to
go horn a and begin to think as we
think.
In our deeds, as well as in our pa
rades and pageants, we have driven
home the fact that we stand for jus
tice and a “square deal.” We have
always in this country played the part
of good citizens and stepped into the
breach tc help those in distress,
whether it was a township striving
for clean government, working peo
ple asking for fair conditions of la
bor, white slaves praying for free
dom, or impoverished immigrants
looking for justice. In these matters
we stand upon our record. We have
data for all who doubt.
U. 5. PEERESSES
Clergyman Says International
Marriages Have Elevated Ameri
can Womanhood Over World.
ANNISTON, May 31.—Dr. Gardiner
c Tucker, of Mobile, one of the lead
ing Episcopal clergymen of Alabama
and the South, offered a defense of in
ternational marriages and a propa
ganda against woman’s suffrage in
his baccalaureate address to the
young women graduates of Noble In
stitute. the Episcopal diocesan school
of Alabama, located here.
He said:
'•The American- nation is the fore
most nation in the world to-day. and
In the American nation the American
woman is the dominating element;
not fully recognized as such as yet,
but just as surely bound to be as the
stars are in their courses, for this is
an era of stupendous changes. Woman
is coming to her rightful place not
only in this country, but the whole
world over.
“Woman’s Sphere Altered.”
“If there were time, I could speak
of things that have recently happened
in China, India. Japan. Persia and
Turkey, which show how tremend
ous has been the alteration of the po
sition of woman in those countries
of social darkness. For much of this
change in the world’s consideration
of women, the American woman is
directly responsible.
“Did you ever consider this signifi
cant fact? For something over two
generations, there has been a stream
of the most influential class of Amer-
’can women flowing into tne leading
ations of Europe. They have been
tarrying into the nobility, the gov-
-ning classes of England. France,
• ermany, Russia, Italy, Spain and
.ustria in numbers more than can
e counted.
it has been the fashion of our
newspapers to cavil at this and to say
that our women were selling them
selves for title and that the foreigners
were attracted only by the glitter
of American gold. That there is some
truth in this cannot be doubted, but
it is not all truth.
Honest Love Frequent.
“There has been a great deal of
honest love and full appreciation of
manly and womanly qualities on both
sides. Some of these marriages have
turned out badly, but the great ma
jority of them have not. At every
European court in the best classes of
all European society, American wom
en are in positions of honor and re
sponsibility and at the heads of great
families.
“They have gone to these foreign
countries with American training,
principles and ideals and with few
exceptions, they have remained loyal
in their hearts to the country of their
birth. Their children have inherited
American blood and their education
has been modified by the customs and
thought of this country. These wom
en have been one of the great silent
forces—all the more potent because
silent and often unconscious—in
(hanging and reshaping European
thought. It is written that ‘a little
leaven leaveneth the whole lump,’ and
this Is one of God’s ways of bringing
the world under the dominion of lib
erty and justice.”
To carry his point that women of
to-day are becoming the better edu
cated of the two sexes and that it is
education that counts in every walk
of life. Dr. Tucker cited a Mobile
academy where the graduating class
this year was composed of 16 boys
and 62 girls, a proportion, he said,
which has prevailed for several years.
He also quoted from the last cen
sus to show that there is practically
no field of labor in America to-day
which has not been invaded by wom
en. He also undertook to refute the
charge of foreign writers that the
American women lose their beauty
and Shapeliness by the time they are
thirty, or forty years of age.
He further referred to the suffra
gette crusade in England and the pa
rade in New York. “You are going
to have your rights if you have to
smash windows and everything else
breakable to get them,” said the
speaker,
CREX Week
Throughout the United States and Canada
Most every Carpet, Furniture, Dry Goods and Department Store is now show
ing a full line of the celebrated CREX wire-grass rugs, carpets and runners.
It will pay you to go to a CREX dealer this week and make your
selections. The high reputation of CREX for sanitation, durability,
artistic beauty and inexpensiveness is recognized throughout
North America.
Make your purchases early and take full advantage of the great
variety of sizes, patterns and pleasing color combinations.
brass Carpets
will beautify and will add comfort and cheer to your •
home—suitable for any room or porch.
AVOID ALL IMITATIONS. Be sure the name CREX
is woven (almost invisibly) in the side binding on rounded edge.
It’s our guarantee of GENUINENESS and your PROTECTION.
There is honest value in every yard of CREX. Made of twisted
strands of toughest wire-grass—it is heavier—has more body and
substance—a stronger and closer warp—wider stripes and patterns than any
similar floor covering. CREX is made to wear and to give satisfaction.
CREX CARPET COMPANY^- NEW YORK
Originators of Wire-Grass Floor Coverings