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Copyright, 1813, by the 8t»r Company.
Great Britain Rights Reserved.
HoopSk
L ady duff-gordon, the famous
“Lucile" of London, and foremost
creator of fashions in the world, writes
each week the fashion article for this newspaper,
presenting all that is newest and best in styles
for well-dressed women.
Lady Duff-Gordon’s new Paris establishment
brings her into close touch with that centre of
fashion.
Lady Duff-Gordon's American establishment
is at Nos. 37 and 39 West Fifty-seventh
s^eet, New York City
Two Sensational Costumes, De
signed for the Early Summer
Season—and Why Every
Woman Should Dress
Her Feet Handsomely
(omin&pack
rh-OTO S
Garden Party Costume of White Chiffon, Showing the New Hoop rvwin.N t
Tunic and the Odd Girdle Tassels
Side View of Rainy Day Costume, Showing the
Freedom Given by the Buttoned Slash.
By LADY DUFF GORDON
(“Lucile”)
C AN it tie that we are to have the
hoop skirt with us once
more? That, after these many
years of oblivion, well deserved and
supposedly permanent, we are to
return to that really ugly fash
ion? Frankly 1 hope and think not.
Hut there is a tendency to widen
the skirts just a bit, especially when
they are made of some soft, sheer
fabric, and therefore, while I decry
the Idea, I am sending you a picture
of a new hoop skirt that I designed
recently. It does not look a bit like
i hose broad ringed skirts that we
see in the old family albums, does
it?
The narrow silhouette is preserved
in a way, and really, we can wear
anything we want to, so that this
slender view is not disturbed. The
underskirt is a delightful affair of
white crepe de chine and Valen
ciennes lace. The overskirt is of
white chiffon cloth draped in a dex
terous and graceful manner. It is
the tunic you see that is hooped.
This tunic or peplum is of the chif
fon and in the hem is run the thin
nest sort of featherbone. As a rule
this stands out just a little way
from the body.
1 particularly like the odd little
npening at the neck of the bodice.
The upper edges are pointed and
laced in such a manner that if the
wearer has any unsightly bone or
wrinkle it is hidden. This part of
the neck that shows is always the
prettiest part of a woman’s neck,
anyway.
The long sleeves in three sections
are new, and an
other novel point
is the giraie. The
tong tassels hang
ing at each side
of the buckle are
very unusual.
It is rather a
long step from
this hoopskirt to the slashed model
shown. Here are two views of the
same costume. It was designed for
rainy day wear. The slash is very
pronounced, but except when going
Front View of the Novel Slashed Rainy Day
Costume Created in Rose Eponge.
up or down steps, or when entering
one's motor it is not very apparent.
The costume is built of a dull rose
wool ponge. The jacket is very
handsome, I think. Its lines are so
s
R
LOUS
Friendly Scientist Showed Me
How to Cure It Forever
r fYly Secrets of Beauty-
Zhe TTlost Famous
UjviayBeauty.
No. 228—How American
Beauties Spoil Their
Charms with Bad Voices
| WILL TELL YOU FREE HOW TO CURE
YOURS TOO
For a long time 1 «i* i
hideous growth of Sui>erfltK>
«ih1 arms. My face was.
1\ troubled by h
Bair on ray face
indeed, a sight from the
exasperating growth,
and I grew alinnat to
hate myself tor ray
unsightly appearance.
There are many
thing* advertised for
Superfluous Hair,
and 1 think 1 tried
them all but never
with any result. e\
cept to waste my
tuouev and burn my
skin
But. withstand
ing all my years
of diaap|N>intmeut.
today there is not a
sign of SniHufluoua
Hair on ifiy face,
arms or anywhere
else. 1 got rid of it
through following
the advice of a
friendly seieutiat.
a professor of chemistry at an English uni
versity. The treatment he advised is so
thorough, simple and easy to use that 1 want
very other sufferer in A merit* to know about it
It worked such a chang< in my appearance and
mv happiness that I gladly waive my natural
feelings of sensitiveness, and 1 will tell broad
cast to all who are afflicted how 1 destroyed every
trace of ban. never to return.
If you are a sufferer and would like to have
full details, just send along your name (stating
whether Mrs. or Miaul and address, and a two-cent
stamp for return i*<»stage, and 1 will send you in
full detail the advice and instructions which re-
sulted in my own cure, after all else failed. ^Ad
dress your letter Mrs Kathryn Jenkins, 405B<’
'Ventworth Building. Boston, Maas.
SOTT—Sirs. Jenkins, as her photo
graph shores, is u ladi/ of refinement,
and for gears was well known ns a so-
victy leader in Scranton, Pa. •
By Mine. Lina Cavalieri
N othing in the world is so ho
minuting us to-be « sfraceful
ami beautiful woman with a
] bad vifire. She is doomed to a life of
hitter disappointment. Men stam-
l pede and scramble to meet tier. aud.
having heard tier voice, promptly eool
I down and efface themselves.
All 1 can advise about beauty and
charm may be offset by an unpleasant
.
; voice. American women. 1 am sorry
to say. have the worst voices in the
; world. Europeans always recognize
i a party of American tourists by the
i loud, harsh voices of their women
* American men also s|teak too loud,
bui their tones being deep are uot so
offensive as those of the women. On
the stage a French actress, taking the
character of an American girl, in
variably speaks her lines in a shrill,
scratchy voice. This identities Iter as
an American.
Of course jt loud volts 1 is one's own
fault, like any other bad habit, and
easily cured as soon its one makes trj»
.her mind to it. But many voices are
unpleasant . no matter how carefully
modulated. In such cases the throat
is largely to blame.
As always, beauty is based on
health, and a good voice usually is
sues from a healthy throat. Taking
cure of the throat does not mean
muffling it. Fur boas, thick mufflers
of any sort are the direel i-ijuse of a
goodly percentage of "weak throats."
The human neck is \vell supplied with
blood and is entirely capable of keep
ing itself warm under ordinary condi
lions if the rest of the body is com
fortable.
If you muffle the throat you In
terfere with Nature's scheme. In
deed of having the throat jt,.d warm
enough, ii becomes loo warm. Na
ture, having a choice of two evils,
tiuite often chooses both. For awhile
site super-heats the throat, and I will
explain later what this causes, latter
on sin 1 adapts herself to the muffler
nuisance anti alters the circulation
and action of the pores so that in
spite of the muffler nuisance the
throat, temperature returns to some
thing like normal.
This .adjustment is all right until
some day you step out a moment
without any neck protection or per
haps a little bit of.draught front the
window circles about your head at
night; then, of course, you have
caught cold, and the result is sore
throat, catarrh or tonsilitis.
Now I will explain how the first
evil, too high throat temperature,
makes trouble. To begin with our
mouths are peppered with germs all
the time. The best we cun do is to
keep them within hounds; to banish
them utterly is impossible.
Under ordinary circumstances the
thread is equipped with defenses
against germs, which makes way with
these tiny enemies ns fast as they
grow.
If anything disturbs the even bal
ance of things and the throat tem
perature rises many of the germs
are able to multiply by the million,
just as a warm Spring brings .forth
mosquitoes and other pests in un
usual quantities The police of the
throat are able to put down incipient
riots without trouble, but a general
uprising of t lie germs must be met
by calling out the militia, and we
have throat trouble.
Hot me say before 1 forget it that
many sore throats can be cured by
the abdication of cold, wet cloths.
Wrap them around your throat and
keep them there until they feel warm.
Then remove and apply others. Do
this half a dozen times, morning, noon
and night. The water should be cold,
but not necessarily ice cold. This
remedy should lie applied only in a
warm room and must on no account
cause the slightest chill
The cold applications reduce the
temperature of the throat long
enough to interfere with the multi
plication of several generations of
tlie germs. Being short-lived in an
active state, this reduces their num
bers temporarily and gives the sys
tem an opportunity to get the upper
hand. *
Antiseptics are valuable when in
ttaipmatioo is prouounf-ed, but they
should be used only as a cure, not as
a preventive. Antiseptics kill germs,
hut unfortunately they act powerfully
on- the-mucous membranes of the
mouth and throat. The membranes
recover completely from occasional
dosings, but the daily use of anti
septics of any considerable strength
results in permanent changes.
I think I may speak with some au
thority about the throat, for every
professional singer soon becomes
necessity quite a throat specialist.
When the throat is tired or delicate
tlie Germans suggest, that it be kept
very wet. Some of these physicians
suggest that those with delicate
tliroats suck ice.
Acid drops may serve* the same
purpose, for they stimulate the saliv
ary ‘glands. As affections of the
throat are very common it is well to
have some remedies that can be
quickly applied. But you must be
careful not to let a serious trouble.
go too far before consulting a physi
cian. A little inflammation is one
thing, buf when white snots appear
on the throat it is ii.,io to be on
guard. Mistakes may lie made that
will increase the trouble instead of
diminishing it.
For colds and catarrhs use solution
of alum, or use a light infusion of
heads of poppies mixed with honey.
The best thing to paint on the sore
throat is the following:
Oil of almonds, sweet.. . 125 grammes
Menthol ., 5 “
Gargling with boric acid is safe.
But I much prefer gargling with
phenic acid, such as the following
(Mackeusie’s), especially if the affec
tion is severe:
Water 250 grammes
Glycerine 12
Phenic acid 1 “
If you are hoarse take two or three
times daily a teaspoonful of the fol
lowing syrup:
Eryngium officinale.. 60 grammes
Boiled water 750 “
Allow This to macerate for two
hours, filter and add three pounds
of sugar syrup.
Singers who wish to have their
voices very clear and strong have
long used the following decoction—
five drupe ill a glass of warm water
as a gargle morning and evening:
Dried squills ... lOOgrammes
Red wine vinegar.1000 “
Alcohol 50
Allow to macerate for tifiven days,
then filter
perfect and the little touches are so
unusual. There is a high girdle or
belt of the material that goes ODly
half way round the body; in the
front this girdle gives the effect of
pockets. The full sleeves are both
uew, and a sign that we are to re
turn in part to the sleeves of a few
years ago.
In looking at this costume as a
whole there is a severity in lines
and treatment that I think very de
sirable for a tailor made. Even the
hat is severe, it is a small rose chip
trimmed with just a band of satin
and a bunch of small flowers.
With such a costume the foot
wear is very important and 1 must
give you a few hints as to what
your feet must wear
This season's styles are going to
bring footwear into greater promi
nence, and, therefore, importance,
than ever, so that is why I want you
to devote a good deal of your consid
eration and your cash to the matter
so that you may make a real success
this Summer.
So let me give you some hints as
to what will be best for you io wear
with your different toilettes.
To begin with, 1 am still in favor
of the boot or shoe which lias a
patent leather golosh and a white
antelope or cloth “upper." and
proclaim these as always smart
and suitable for wear with tailor-
mades. Be sure, however, that tilt
shoes are not of the lace-up variety,
as they are so apt to look untidy,
the buckled shoe, where the buckle
just curves against the instep anu
the silk stocking being much more
becoming, as then all the lines and
curves of the foot and ankle are fol
lowed and continued without a
break.
And when it comes to completing
afternoon or evening gowns of
crepe de chine or charmeuse, you
simply must have shoes made in
the same material and just finished
off with a tiny buckle to match, or
else one made in oxydized silver or
dull gold.
For evening wear, when it is, of
course, possible to be a little more
daring and decorative, you can
draw through the buckle a fold of
fabric in some other and vividly
contrasting color and then have
the heels tinted to match; this be
ing indeed a very good way in
which to repeat and accentuate the
color scheme of waistband or tur
ban.
How I Cured My
Grey Hair
I Will Tell You Free HowTo
Cure Yours by a Simple,Sure
Harmless Home Treatment.
Age No Obstacle.
Don't Use Harmful Dyes That Make
Your Hair Look Like a Painted Mop
LET ME HELP YOU EREE.
When I was twentyr-five years old I suddenly
turned gray, an# at twenty-eight looked like a
woman of forty-five. I lout three Rood m»-
MitioiiN for no other reason t' an my faded'hair.
Like many others, my elderly apearance preyed on
my mind until 1 was a physical wreck.
One day my godfather, a famous chemist, asked
me to try a preparation he had infected. I did
so. and after a few days
was surprised and de
lighted to find my
hair becoming richer
and darker in tone.
Very soon it was
once more. the
nnturnl shade
of in» trirl-
inh flays.
I am so de
lighted at my
Micress that 1 am
willing to send
the secret free
(o any mao
or woman whose
hair is gray. Let
me make it clear
that it is quite dif
ferent from the or
dinary hair-dye or var-
umli which makes til*
hair look like a painted mop. quite destroying its
natural appearance and in many cases actually
killing the hair. My secret will enable you to
reoolor your gray hair to its original natural
Minute. I offer a reward of $500 to prove my
statements.
If you want to renew your faded hair and look
i.ug again simply scud your name and address
ating whether lady or gentleman) and inclose
a two-cent stamp for postage, and I will send you
1 11 detail- ti a plain envelope. Address Mrs.
Mary K. Chapman, Suite 205 B, (Jrusveuoi
Building, Providence, R. I.