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\ The “Golden Pheasant” Wrap of Gold and Red Brocade. Gorgeous Evening Coats the Crowning Sensa tion of the Coming Seasons Startling Modes L ADY DUFF-CORDON, the famous “Lucile” of London, and fore most creator of fashions in the world, writes each week the fashion article for this newspaper, presenting all that is newest and best in styles for well-dressed women. Lady Duff-Gordon’s Pans establishment brings her into close touch with that centre of fashion. Lady Duff-Gordon’s American establishment is at Nos. 37 and 39 West Fifty-seventh street. New York. By Lady I)uff- ER evening wrap can be to a woman her crowning joy or her greatest disappointment. It can give to her the supreme Consciousness that every detail of her costume Is perfect or it can make her feel that she is all at sixes and sevens. Gone are the days when a woman's evening coat was merely a covering for her fragile gown, a shell in which nes tled some delightful creation of the modiste's art To-day the evening wrap TnrM Cordon (“Lucile”). is as important as the costume under neath. Therefore to be the crowning glory of the ultra modern costume the evening wrap in these extravagant days can no longer be demure. We no longer resemble the gentle wren, nor yet the sparrow with their dull, sombre coats. No. To-day it is as the gorgeous peacock, or perhaps the decorative scarlet tanager, that we dis play ourselves at nightfall. "Gay as peacocks,’’ "Vain as peacocks," these are Front View of .“Peacock" Wrap of Rose Brocade, Oriental Embroidery and Real Lace. > V O- if Ml The Coat-of-the-Rose, Quaint Wrap of Rose and Silver Taffeta. r 1 the expressions that man often uses when given to censuring our sump tuous garments. But, speaking of peacocks, does man and the world at large ever stop to think that the peacock with his superb clothes, his colossal vanity, is masculine. Verily is woman ma ligned. The example of bedecking ourselves is set us by the male birds of the air. Why, therefore, should the male of our species be forever carping at us? Recently I read a bit of verse anent this peacock myth, that I quote before going on to tell you more about some lovely peacock wraps recently exhibited in Paris: “Feminine vanity? Oh. ye gods, Hark to these men! Vanity's wide as the world is wide. Look at the peacock in his pride; Is it a hen?” There is nothing too fragile, nothing too sumptuous for woman to have made into her evening wrap. Fabrics as fragile as chiffon or as elaborate as silver bocade, laces of a rare and unusual design, all these are delight fully transformed into the most seductive of evening coats. There are times when I feel that some sublimated name should be created for such wraps as I have just been designing Of a verity the English language is too re stricted. There is too little color in it to properly describe them. Can you imagine anything more lovely than a coat of real chantilly lined with rose chiffon. I recently created such a one for a bride, and she whispered to me just after her return from the honeymoon that her coat had meant as much to her as her husband's embraces. I am sending you this week some coats for evening that should inspire you with the same happiness with which the chiffon wrap in spired the happy little bride. I have selected three that I call Peacock wraps. Is this not a charming and a truthful name for them. But even here I make distinctions. I like to think that a wonderful golden pheasant in spired the one bearing its name. There is a rare simplicity of design in this coat. It wraps the wearer lovingly in its folds, but does not hide or detract from the grace of her figure. It is very long and narrow in the back, and is draped toward the frost. The very short kimono sleeves edged with golden maline and the neck ruche of the maline are new and odd touches that mark this as of the very latest mode. Then I have selected for you also two views of one of these Peacock coats, a back and front view, that will convey to you clearly the sumptuousness of this model. The coat is a wonderful rose brocade, draped over hips so as to give a novel pannier effect. The cape, which forms the sleeves, is made of a rare and old point venise flounce that the wearer had received from her grandmother. The shaped piece around the neck is an elaborate bit of Oriental embroidery, fruit of a long visit in the Orient. The design of this, while very different from that of the Golden Pheasant, is just as graceful and also enhances rather than detracts from the grace of the wearer Very different, although perhaps not so sumptuous in outline, is the short wrap that 1 have named the "Coat-of-the-Rose.” This is one of the hip wraps or coats that are so very chic this season in Paris It has the quaint atmosphere that seems so necessary at this time. It is created in a flowered moire change able taffeta in rose and gray, but rose pre dominates, and the wearer usually has at her waist a glorious rose set in foliage, and from this rose and the color came the name, “Coat- of-the-Rose." There is much old gold lace used as decoration. The sleeves are short, and while this is an evening wrap, it might also be used as an adjunct to a dinner costume. 'V'tLv v- I , U ; '*.■ v. y/t i.-M, t V’ *4$ ■ fv* ; Back View Peacock” Coat