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TIEARST 'JS Mahay S’ L> AJltinU'An, rt lUAlV I A, UA., SUNDAY. AIHiCfST JO, till 3. •HARE; y i GOWN’ 18 NOW RAGE ^••5- -S-e-i. +•+ DRAPED TR0USER8GII/ENAME By MME. HAUTE MONDE. B ELTS of white kid, lined with colored ribbons or silk, are dainty accessories to the all- white outdoor costume. One style, a wide belt of dull kid, which fastens together with pearl snap fasteners and has two wide sashes at the side, is lined with shell-pink taffeta rib bon. Another sort of white lined belt shows a piped edge of colored kid to match the lining, and a white kid buckle piped with color,, * * • No more than in grown-ups is there any lack of variety in wearing ap parel for children. Coats, frocks, hats each show's interesting little touches and carefully worked-out details. Children of all ages are wearing their skirts unusually short just now, while as for the waist line, it may be anywhere above or below the normal waist line, for the use of the normal line has a tendency to make the fig ure look older, and the chief charac teristic of any frock between 4 and 16 year sizes should be its youthful ness. • * • Women of to-day love >o array themselves in fragile robes of white tulle bordered with white fox and to load their necks with pearls. It is in a way a white season, and all the white things that are now most fash ionable are expensive. I never re member having seen so many neck laces and ropes of pearls worn in the daytime as now; it is a sort of mania with women of fashion. * * ♦ An automobile rainproof (water proof) and disproof silk lap robe is a beautiful affair—green on the one aide and white on the other and bound with green leather. It is so light that it could be used in sum mer without giving warmth and yet would furnish the desired protection for dresses. In winter it would be Just as useful spread over a heavier robe. • • • This reminds me of the latest rain coat—the lightest (in weight) article of its kind—made of silk mounted on a rubber lining. It is very soft and folds easily into a little pocket- case six inches long. It is of a,beau tiful shade of dark blue and most elegantly made. * * * One of the most beautiful felt hats I have seen for men came with the latest importation from England. The felt has body, yet it is the Softest, cilkiest and smoothest of felts, fold ing easily into any sort Of a lump without a w r rinkle to tell of its rough usage afterward. It is for the traveler, and is to be carried in a case three by four inches—a regular vest pocket affair. It takes but an instant to pat it into shape, and it retains its form perfectly until re folded. • * * Black velvet neckbands in the Marie Antoinette style are as pop ular as ever, but some of the great art jewelers of Paris are making some attractive bands in deep blue velvet rimmed with sapphires. Need less to say, these neckbands are ex ceedingly expensive, quite as expen sive as an ordinary necklace of pre cious stones, but then they are im mensely chic and with white sum mer dresses they give the most ar tistic effects it is possible to imagine. * • • The fashion for thin white frocks made of plain and colored materials has had extensive vogue this summer, and many of these gowns made of costly and admirable material are now to be had for a few dollars.* Think what good-looking house gowns they make for the winter evening; they ^Iso serve for day hours* when one must attend weddings-or receive at afternoon teas, and the women w r ho do few- of these things find such gowns excellent for informal theater parties. Even the much abused white skirt with its flowered taffeta coat can be utilized all next winter for the theater and f*r restaurant dinners and sup pers if its sleeves are made elbow* length and its neck is cut open in front. * * * Inexpensive glass beads can be worn to give the right tone of color to the afi-white costume. Opaque beads are^old in chains sufficiently long t6 go about the neck and drop in a V-line in front—a line which is artistic and much more becoming than the round neck line. These heads come in various shades of green and are especially effective In jade colo.* They are also sold in yellow, red and blue. * * * Attractive evening caps are made of -'White tulle. They consist of a puffed crown, edged with a box-plaited frill that turns smartly back from the face. They are trimmed with pompons of stiff tulle at the side. Other pretty evening caps for summer wear are made of silver or gold tissue, mount ed on China silk, and banded with fluffy, soft white marabou. * * * There was a time when the mak ing of a fashionable girdle was a feat for the nimble fingered. Now’ the most modish girdle is made of a strip of taffeta silk, plainly fastened about the waist, edged on each side with an inch-wide frill of knife- pleated silk. The girdle is madp Without folds, and is loosely worn. It hooks in the back, under a flat bow or buckle, and is eight or ten inches wide. ♦ * ■ The “bungalow apron” is popular with the brides who like to appear “housewifely.” It is an all-envelop ing apron, with elbow sleeves and square neck, w’hich buttons from neck to hem in the back and is neat ly belted in at the waist. It can be worn over the frock to keep it spot less, or, if the day is sultry, it can be w'orn instead of a frock and thus serve the purpose of two garments in one. These aprons are made generally of plain, serviceable materials. One at tractive sort is of khaki, the belt, pocket, cuffs and neck piped with red cotton. Another is of thin blue and w’hite gingham with pipings of blue lawn. The rad of White Mourning White mourning, which has been gaining ground tor months, is a sen sible fashion for the sultry days of August, and is worn more naturally now than it was in the winter and spring. Then it attracted attention, and was therefore shunned by many women of conservative taste. Now, when all the world wears white—all the American world, at any rate— white crepe and other mourning fabr rics are inconspicuous. The woman who wears white mourning must remember that she must wear nothing but white. White and black in no wise, indicate mourn ing, and no matter how many attract ive frocks she sees which combine white with black, she must remember that white mourning must be all white. The use of white mourning crepe for trimming should be as cautiously indulged in as that of black. Too much crepe suggests showiness. But as for trimming material, and one of the few’ allowed to the women in mourning, crepe holds an important place. Kneeless Stocking Nov/ California Fad I Pasadena Society Women Emulate | Example of-Co-eds of Leading Eastern Universities. At Least That’s the Opinion of London Writer in Discussing Craze for Display. Greek and Orient Combined in Costume; More for Drawing Hoorn Than Street. The latest Parisian gown for wo men, the “Harem,” Is here. It is Illusive, alluring and bewildering, this gown of cobwebby tissues which is worked out in an exquisite maze— the color of California poppies drip ping with dew—the dew being illus trated by quantities of the finest cut crystal trimming. The Princess* of Arabian Night fame may have worn some such a costume when she weaved the various legends which saved her from being tied in a sack with thp^ or four raging cats and tossed into the Bosphorus. The gown, which combines the most ultra of Parisian modishness with the languor of the Orient is not planned for street w’ear, it is rather for the drawing room or boudoir. Sheer and transparent voluminous trousers disclo.se white silk stockings heavily embroidered in brilliants. The trousers'are not gathered at the in step, but edged with the same crystal trimming which falls over extremely high-heeled, cloth-of-gold slippers. The only note of contrasting color is in the draperies of the bodice. The gown has its greatest charms when the wearer is seen in silhouette against a brilliant light. Then there is all the grace and beauty of the Greek dancing figure. These same costumes, made up in more opaque and darger mateiials are being worn on the boulevards and in the cafes of the French cap ital. ,But it is not expected they will become of general vogue in America. Special Cable to The American. LONDON, Aug. 9.— Since a woman correspondent in The Times wrote it length of the "orgy of undressing” among women it has been rather amusing to note the different theo ries put forward by men and women in newspapers to account for the feminine fashion to wear fewer clothes. Side by side with comment for and against on the craze for "leaving off” have been remarks >n the daring character of modern modes and the airy fashions that obtain for women. Stockings of diaphanous silk, slash ings and liftings of the skirt to dis play the leg halfway to/the knee, showing every movement, and the low necked afternoon frock with a V shaped opening filled with filmy lace have all been under discussion. One correspondent suggested that women were engaged on “an extensive advertising campaign." Two women writers have referred respectively to "the return of the prude” and “the triumph of common sense,” while a third has taunted men with regretting the passing of the petticoat because there is for the male no piquancy and mystery about the tight skirt. Man prefers, she implies, the fiting provocative skirt. The most novel explanation, how ever, is advanced by Mr. Godfrey Dean in The Daily Dispatch, which no other has yet offered. "The explanation is,” he writes, "that the woman-feminine, as I mav so call her. finds it necessary—owing to the changed attitude of men towa’d women brought about by militant suffragism—to distinguish herself by a definite display and assertion of her essential femininity from the woman suffragist, or at least, the suffragist of advanced or militant opinions. “I do not for a moment think that in thus calling on masculine attention by making the most of her physical charms the woman-feminine is act ing deliberately on conscious thought. On the contrary, I think this alluring display or feminine curves and form by means of transparent and clinging gowns Is sub-consciously inspired by the events of the last, twelve months or so, which have made men more critical of women. “In her natural repugnance, to being mistaken for what she is not—a suf fragist—the woman feminine is dis playing her charms. She cannot very well wear a label: she cannot very- well declare herself to strange fellow travelers for what-she is. but she can and does endeavor to distinguish her self from women of whose conduct she disapproves. “The more the woman suffragist asserts herself the more necessary it is for the woman-femi*#*^- to assert herself. It is woman's silent duel, and dress, or should I say undress, is playing a big part in it. Many Lives Saved As Train Is Ditched Forethought of Towerman Averts Crash Between Specials by Tak ing Chance on Tragedy. PASADENA, CAL., Aug. 9.—Emulat ing the fair co-eds of some of the lead ing Eastern universities, a number of Pasadena society women are now wear ing the kneeless stocking and the custom gives all promise of becoming the fail in the Crown City’s smartest set before the opening of the coming winter social season. The “kneeless stocking” Is nothing more or less than men’s half hose, and. according to those who have discarded Die ordinary long feminine stocking, so much comfort and satisfaction is being derived by the wearers of the kneeless hose, which comes no higbe r than the calf of the leg. that It Is doubtful if they ever return to the usual style of stock ings worn by the fair sex. With the adoption of the new fad, men’s furnishing stores In Pasadena have had a rush of business in half hose, with the fair sex of Pasadena the pur chasers. At the department stores the finest grade of men’s silken hosiery is ( > irg shown, with the brig 1 colors most j in demand Among th ■Hi lei . o are more enthusiastic over the superior- I ity of this style than Mrs ,1. Marcus i Hothingwall, president of the Pasadena ! Pansy Club. Slit Trousers Man Mobbed by Newsboys Leffiingwell Doak, of Pittsburg, a Martyr to the Cause of Fashion. 11*1 IIU. >ng those who have discarded the ng*h for the kneeless stocking none $16,500,000 Gems in Buckingham Palace Extraordinary Precautions Are Tak en to Protect Jewels Against Burglars. Special Cable to The American. LONDON, Aug. 9.—King George has a great idea of his resuonsibility in re gard to the jewels at the various royai palaces, and from time to time has them recatalogued and revalued. Those at Buckingham Palace were recently as sessed and declared to be worth <>16,500,- I 000. I It Is said that there is scarcely an ob ject in the whole collection with which the Queen is not familiar. New meas ures safety have been adopted and it would now be impossible for the clev erest burglar in Europe to make an en trance without attracting attention. An electric alarm was recently added. The police guard around the palace has also been Increased. Net and Lace Are in High Favor Right Now—Telling Effects in Black and White. Special Cable to The American. LONDON, Aug. 9.—However over- elaborated may be the fashions as w orn by the “Upper Ten,” the women of the stage nowadays set the exam ple of being always appropriately dressed, whether the function be a river picnic or a race meeting. Some of the frocks seen on the up per reaches of the Thames are par ticularly attractive. One greatly ad mired gown was of white voile, worn .by Miss Cooper, with a close allovcr pattern of blue and a center panel of fine embroidered batiste, with the un dercollar and pipings of a darker blue. The prettiest black velvet bows finished both the neck and waist. Another of dainty pink had broad insertions of embroidery and a black suede belt, while a third was of Pais ley voile in blue and fawn. Still an other. perhaps the prettiest of all. was of white Irish linen with Insertions of lace. The lower half of the skirt and the front of the bodice were in broderie Anglaise, and again there ap peared the chic black belt and bow. Blouses have become more diapha nous; net and lace are all the rage just now, some specially pretty frocks having touches of black on collar and jabot, while others of white French voile are most fascinating. Town to Draw Rules On Woman's Dress Morals Efficiency Committee Is Rais ed to Take Matter Up With Burgess. ROCHESTER. PA., Aug. 9.—F«rl- lloVNing suggestions made by D. \\\ Denton, president of the Rochester Council. Burgess J. M. Cargo will be asked to formulate a set of rules reg ulating wearing apparel of women who appear on the streets of Roches ter. Denton’s suggestions were made on complaints he said had been made to him about the transparency of the gowns worn by young women. A Morals Efficiency Committee wa? named to take the matter up with the Burgess. Watermelons to Reduce Living Cost Greatest Supply Ever Known Now Being Consumed—Chicago Eats 100 Carloads a Day. Ham bone am sweet, bacon am good, Possum fat am very, very fine; But gimme, oh, gimme. Oh, how 1 wish you would, That vvatermllllon hangin’ on the vine. —OLD SOUTHERN MELODY PITTSBURG. Aug. 9.—A martyr to fashion, W. Loffingwell Doak, of the North Side fashionable set. was .this afternoon mobbed by newsboys in Fifth avenue when he appeared in silt trousers. Mr. Doak’s trousers were of a light check material. The slit extended from the bottom of the legs on the outside to within about six inches of the knee. A glimpse of bright green hosiery, of the long feminine variety, was disclosed. Mr. Doak carried a light bamboo cane and a handkerchief was tucked in the cuff of hia right sleeve. He was the first follower here of the style predicated at the Na tional Convention of Tailors at Cedar Point, Ohio, last week. Doak bore the clamorings of the boys until they began to kick fiim in the shins. He called for a policeman, and when one appeared the boys scat tered. Doak took a car, announcing that he would go right home and change his clothes. $350 for a Dress Held Not Too Much Mrs. John Francis Yawger, Promi nent Clubwoman, Thinks Sum Is Not Extravagant. Should a woman be considered extrav agant because she spends $550 for a dress? JMrs. |ohn Francis Yawger, sec retary of the Federation of New York Women’s Clubs and member of many other civic and social organizations, doe* not think so. “When a woman spends large sums of money on her persons! appearance she is reflecting as much credit on her husband as on herself. ' says Mrs. Yawger. “If her husband can afford to allow her to pay $360 for a dress the public has no call to de scribe the woman as extravagant.” ‘Dressed-Up Dude' Thrashed by Woman Though Man Was Roughly Handled, Judge Fines Masher $25 in Addition. CHICAGO, Aug 9.—Scores of lives were saved to-day when a towerman in Burnham. Ill., threw’ the Ohio River spe cial on the Pennsylvania Railroad into a derail and averted its collision with a through Wabash train from St. Louis. The train took the ditch at high speed. The Pennsylvania locomotive was over turned In the crash, but aside from minor injuries suffered by the fireman, no one was hurt. A moment after the Pennsylvania train hit the derailer the Wabash train clicked across the frogs at the track in tersection less than 1,000 feet away. Dressmaking Class To Cut Cost of Living Paterson, New Jersey, High School Will Make Every Girl Gradu ate a Modiste. PATERSON, N. J.. Aug. 9.—To com bat the high cost of living the Pater son Board of Education has established a dressmaking department. In the fu ture every girl graduate will be a train ed modiste. The question of advanced sewing in the high school has been under con sideration for some time, but the au thorities have not before been in a po sition to spend the amount of money necessary to carry out their project.. A large, light room, equipped with sew ing machines, dress forms, electric irons, Jroning boards and cutting ta bles. has been set aside for the new department. CHIU AGO, Aug. 9.—Want to redu* e the high cost of living? Eat water melons—better and bigger and cheap er than they TiaVe been for years. The year 1913 is* the greatest watermelon year ever known. The crop is moving into town at the rate of 100 cars a j day of the juciest, most delicious melons that ever were plugged. The Florida melons are gone. The Georgia and Alabama bumper crops are fast disappearing. Alabama and Texas are keeping the world happy I now counting the slippery black seeds. Next week hurrah for Missis- sour! and Oklahoma watermelons, and they will linger until September. Parrot Jests Judge; Then Makes Ruling Bird Calls Bache'or Jurist 'Papa’ and Asks Him ‘How’s the Baby?' CHICAGO, Aug. 9.—“Hello, papa; bow’s the baby?" a parrot decided its ownership in the private chambers of Judge Wade, In the Chicago Avenue Court, by perching on the bead <>r one of two women, who were fighting for the custody of the bird, and directing the foiegoing query at the judge. Judge Wade incidentally is a bachelor. He smiled good-naturedly. Spectators laughed The two women giggled. The bird was awarded to Mrs. Clara Gunn, who had been arrested on com plaint of Mrs. Mary Krippels. Mrs. Gunn took the bird out of the basement of the Krippels home July 8. She testi fied the parrot was stolen from her four weeks ago. JERSEY CITY, Aug. 9.—“The women of Jersey City must he protected from dressed-up dudes, who insult them In the street,” yesterday said Judge O’Brien, in imposing a $25 fine upon Ir ving Bendar, of No. 112 Mercer street. Jersey City. In this case it was the defendant who needed protection. His eye was discol ored, his nose swollen and his lip cut, the result of his encounter with Mrs Viola Brophy, of No. 401 Ocean avenue, Jersey City, whom he had accosted. Everything 0. K. With vour appetite—your | digestive organs—your liver—your bowels. If not, you should ^ try a short course of A® It ** helps Nature overcome such ills as Flatulency, Indiges tion, Constipation, Bilious ness, Cramps and Malarial Fever. Get a bottle to-day. BRENAU COLLEGE-CONSERVATORY PANORAMIC VIEW OF PART OF BRENAU’S WONDERFUL EQUIPMENT C OMBINING an “A-i” college of literary note with a wonderful conservatory of music and a foremost school of oratory, it at once becomes the South’s most progressive college for women and earns its title of a national educational institution EQUIPMENT—Thirty-two buildings, modernly equipped and handsomely furnished, including sorority, club and professors’ houses; a campus of over 100 acres, including a hardwood forest and limpid lake, private truck and dairy farm. FACULTY —Forty-four trained specialists, experts in their lines, graduates of the leading institutions both here and abroad. A library of over 7,000 volumes. Two pipe organs and 75 pianos. PATRONAGE —Over 500 students gathered from thirty-two States and abroad at test its national popularity. Ten States maintain State club organizations. One of the few schools with natio nal sororities. LOCATION—On the main line of the Southern Railway, between Atlanta (50 miles away) and Washington. In the foothills of the Blue Ridge, one of the most healthful and beautiful sections in the South. Gainesville is noted for its in vigorating mountain air and spring water. COURSES—The standard A. B. Course, with its 14-unit equipment; a Musical course under the most famous vocal and instrumental teachers in this country; a noted School of Oratory, including a course in Shakespearean Plays, cos tumed from the college green room; Art, with its kindred craftsmanship work in brass, wood, clay modeling and pottery; Domestic Science, with its practi cal course of instruction in househo Id economics. SOCIAL LIFE—The pleasures of college life are multiplied at Brenau. Receptions, picnics, out-of-door fetes, concerts, class games and celebrations break the monotony of school routine, and afford both healthful recreation and di version. Brenau makes a strong appeal to lovers of the beautiful and the best, as is evidenced in the equipment, the faculty, the furnishings and the cuisine. However, the expense at Brenau is not greater than at other first- class institutions. Fall term opens September 11. Write for handsome illustrated Catalogue. Address Brenau, Box ??, Gainesville, Georgia.