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~f bwiiM wiwiimmutfi' i. ai * jusii) all Hats Will Bring $1,000,000 to Atlanta j Butterflies are the prevailing motif. This is a hat of black velvet with a black lace butterfly. ■ UEARST'S AMKKICAM, BUNDAV Chic and Dashing Here • where the factions (ftvide—some like it; some laugh. It is made of midnight blue plush, with a yellow figured top and a yellow feather but terfly off at the side. Shaded like a man’s derby, this hat of garnet plush has a silk ribbon to match which trails behind the left shoulder. Grav roses are used. One must be pretty to weai black velvet and patent leather. this hat —of A flat sailor, of tete de negre plush, trimmed with cream and brown fur and sacred bird of Siam feathers. FUTURIST GAUZE Weirdest Designs Are Printed Upon Them,and Some, Not Too Grotesque, Are Attractive. Turquoise blue satin crown, with a brim of taupe duvetyn, and an aigrette—duvetyn being a new material. Chic—that’s the word. It needs a pert face and vivacious manner. Black velvet with pink facings and Paradise feathers. Autumn Styles in Millinery Show That Large Creations Are Thing of the Past—Butterflies Are Popular. ‘.Voir, deny it if you can, 'Though it's manners wake the man, 'It's millinery makes ihc girl** —Song from “Red Feather.’* Millinery, then, being such a serious affair, some 1,400 women and 100 men will visit Atlanta those later weeks of August, and they will spend close to $1,000,000 for millinery. The “openings” for fall and winter styles are on in Atlanta's great wholesale houses, and the great semi-annual buying is under way. The general public will not see these styles for a month or so to come. Therefore, this is NEWS— real hot stuff—for feminine readers. Here goes: Black predominates. Nearly all hats are almost col lapsible. Butterflies are the prevailing motif in trimmings. Few large hats are shown. Feathers and fur are “par ticularly good.” Rats and switches apparently have gone to stay, for nearly all the new hats are close-fitting and necessitate scant coiffures. For instance, one of the very pret tiest styles shown-—from ma^puline viewpoint at least—is a new poke of black plush with pink facing and paradise feathers. This is a saucy little hat that goes with a pert face and lively manner. One can imagine it on a vivacious little demoiselle at Longehamps—where, in fact, it was photographed by an Atlanta designer, and copied. Splendiferous, indeed, must be the sacred bird of Slam, whose feathers adorn an extremely flat plush hat of sailor shape. Fur Cream and Brown. A pelt of some little animal, about the size of a weasel, twists about the crown, and the two feathers complete the trimming. The fur is cream and bro\yn. The feathers are brown with wonderful bluish markings more beautiful than a peacock’s glories. The plush Is a new shade of brown called “tete de negre.” which sounds much better in French than in English. All this sets "hubby” back about fifty. “Tete de negre,” by the way, vies with black in popularity. A huge black butterfly is the only trimming on a little black silk velvet turban with soft crown. "Smart. And good. Oh! Very good, indeed,” is what the designer calls It. Let it go at that. Why argue? All humanity is divided into two parts. Of these, one is composed of those to whom styles in millinery are a serious matter; the other, of those who grin. There's one hat which will bring strict division of these parties. Now, from the "pro’s" standpoint it is a creation of midnight blue plush, with a variegated plush top on the crown, and an artistic feather butterfly perched airily on the edge of the brim. Now. the "antis”: It’s a dark blue contraption with a yeilow, scrambled, Bulgarian top. and a funny little yel low thingamajig sticking up behind. Take your choice. “Donna e mobile,” as Our old friend Caruso has !t—"woman is tickle”—and he might add, inexplicable. No dcubt this is pretty, to a woman. One must be pretty to wear the lit tle black velvet hat. shaped like a traffic cop’s helmet and trimmed with patent leather fixings—so says the de signer. If this is carefully explained to customers, the hat should sell well. Derby Cover* Eye. Rather a novelty, but pretty, too, is a hat shaped like a man’s derby, which pulls down almost covering the right eye. The shape is of garnet plush, and a long ribbon matching this shade Is thrown across the throat from right to left, so that it hangs down behind the left shoulder. Gray roses complete the trimming. Current history ever finds its re flection in the styles. Bulgarian de signs still are with us, and now comes a blue plush hat—one of the few large ones, in the Mexican style— that is, it has a broad, flat brim or namented with fuzzy little balls. Big velvet hats, very like the sort art students w*ear in the Latin Quar ter of Paris, are to be seen. They are almost bare of trimming—just great, floppy pieces of black velvet, sometimes to be pulled down over one eye. "Duvetyn” is a new material. It is seen to best advantage in a hat with a brim flaring up on one side, and with a round crown. An aigrette stands pertly, off to the rear. The crown is of turquoise duvetyn and the underbrim of taupe satin. If you see a slate gray rubber hat w r orn by some pretty girl on Peach tree street this winter, don’t say you weren’t prepared for it. This is due notice that rubber has been called into use for millinery. It was sure to come, straw’, feathers, furs, flow ers,' silks, satins, fruits, birds, ani mals and what-not having been used. The rubber hats are severe in de sign. One has a "drape” to go under the chin, made of green and blue chenille. “They say” rain won’t hurt them, and that they’re fine for auto- ing. because they’re small. It is the auto, so every one in the millinery trade believes, that has killed the big hat. A big hat is a nuisance in a limousine, and hard to keep on in a touring car or runabout —and the rest of us like to act as if We might go autoing. even if we do not. BLACK HOSE BOSTON FAD. BOSTON, Aug. 16.—Black stock ings worn with white shoes seem to be quite the fad on the North Shore. Last year all w*>re white stbokings with black shoes, but this season things have been reversed. Several girls are following the fad. “Galluses” or Braces of Blue the Last Word in New Masculine Mode. LONDON, Aug. 16.—The very lat est craze, initiated by a futurist ar tist in Paris, is for gauze wraps to be worn ^.t race meetings or at the Casino on the continent. These wraps have the weirdest designs printed up on them, and some of them, when not loo grotesque, are wonderfully at tractive. The Viscountess Curzon, one of the loveliest blondes in England, has just had made a marvelous gauze wrap for continental wear. It has a border of Egyptian figures in black thrown against dead white background, the material being so fine that it could be drawn through a ring. The lining of the wrap is of tan gerine orange tulle and there is an immense tulle. It is to be worn over a fairylike dress of embroidered muslin. The hat is a broad Tuscan, weighed down at one side by a cluster of white, black and purple lrissee. Long single black velvet ribbon, which depends on the hat, is passed round the throat and allowed. to hang low 7 at the back. • All the latest tunics are of striped gauze, and they are very effective, and are worn over black charmeuse Sleeves are shorter and shorter, so that thirty-button gloves are an absolute necessity. Lady Diana Manners looked par ticularly attractive at a recent gar den party in one which came well down over her ears. Around the rim were clusters of black and red cher ries and wide strings of black velvet, tied at the back so that the ends fell straight down. Special Cable to The American. PARIS, Aug. 16.—Women’s skirts for some time have been approach ing the shape of the garments worn by the masculine sex, and now Paris and London face the prospect of see ing feminine attire more like men’s than ever. The last word in women’s clothes is “galluses.” The suspenders look very much like the broad blue variety often hung in shop windows in America and possibly labeled, “The Fireman’s Friend.” A Rue de la Paix dressmaker Is enthusiastic over women wearing sus penders. "Braces,” she declared, “will keep the blouse from coming up out of the waistband, as It some times does, and if carried out in the color of the skirt they should make a charming line.” Braces are not the only masculine trend In fashion, however, for after a wave of decided femininity in frocks, when frills and fluffs, and sashes and slashes, and hoppings and hobblings have beer* in vogue, fashion has dash ed to the other extreme and London and Paris are promised waistcoats with cutaway coats, large steel trou ser buckles at the back of tweed skirts and a ponderous and portly watch chain stretched across the dia phragm. For the present the waistcoats are still daintily evolved in delicate grays and chestnuts, sprigged or flowered Sometimes the waistcoats reach up to the neck, finishing in a small “V.” Again they wrinkle effectively around the waist with a single or double row of pearl buttons. TATE SPRING UNDER NEW MANAGEMENT A high, cool, healthful retort, fa» the heart or the Cumberland Mountains of East Tennessee, an unexcelled climate. Modern hotel—one themeend acre park and grounds—eighteen hole golf course—saddle horses—fine five-piece orchestra for concerts and dancing and that most famous of ail Mineral Waters, TATE SPRING NATURAL MINERAL WATER always a help, nearly always a cure In Indigestion, nervousness and all ailments attributable to Im proper functions of the bowels, liver and kidneys. Rev. Dr. E. E. Host. Bishop Methodist Church. Nashvlfle, Tswv, says: "It gives me the greatest pleasure to say that I regard Tate Spring water as the best remedy for all disorders of the stomach, bowels, liver and kidneys of which I have knowledge.” Enjoy the healthful water at the spring or have It shipped to your home. For sale by all druggists, in sterilised bottles, filled and sealed at the spring. Send postal to-day for Illustrated booklet, giving rates, location and description of this ideal place for the summer outing. Address TATE SPRING HOTEL CO. S. B. ALLEN, MANAGING DIRECTOR, TATE SPRING, TENN. ATLANTA MINERAL WATER 00.. LOCAL DISTRIBUTOR^ it w By M3VIE. HAUTE MONDE M ANY of the latest summor models are almost entirely made of white muslin richly embroid ered in the openwork English style. These dresses are accompanied by broad sashes and short coats of real lace. The hats worn with them are exaggeratedly “picture” In outline. Tre brim fs always wide and the crown almost hidden behind immense butterfly bows of tulle or lace. For occasion! of ceremony Leghorn and Tuscan h£ts are trimmed with sweep ing oarWch feathers in white or pale 'pastel tints. • • • Half a dozen different coatees or mantlets can be worn with the same robette, and endless variations can be arranged with the introduction of finely embroidered sashes which pos sess heavily fringed ends. The cor sage portion of these robettes is quite plain, almost like a fine corset cover It is made plain expressly, because the great object is the introduction of dainty lace and net blouses and picturesque coatees or mantlets. When accompanied by a shady hat In Leghorn trimmed with pale roses and black velvet ribbons these little dresses have a special cachet. • * t Embroidered linen bags are offered in many shapes and in as many de grees of smartness, some being treated quite as carefully in matters of finish, mountings, etc., as though they were of gorgeous material. Colored line, embroidered with a touch of Bulga rian embroidery, makes some effec tive bags for individual costumes, but the one-tone color is more practical for general use. and some of the handsome hags of real Irish lace filet or other bold lace are better for gen eral summer use than the embroid ered linens. • • • Some particularly good belts called the hip belt, are made up In white and fashionable shades ana have large oval buckles of the leather. • • • The waistline is not onlv allowed to remain normal, but by swathing It In wide supple sashes its size is con siderably Increased. The soft drape< high restraining of artistic gowns Parrs. ! bodice minus the collar Is a feature worn by women in The French designer knows where a line must be accentuated and in many cases uses tiny buttons for this purpose. • * • Keen appreciation of the effective lights and shadows given bV a moire etfect has returned. Many frocks worn by Paris m; nequins at the Long- champs race w ere made of soft crept' with the moire effect Very much coats of fine 1 with glilterim orn are the evening k net, closely woven Plaited peplums of rnaiine. net or mounseltlte de eoie appear on some of the newest fro ks, and these are stif fened by a thin wire or ruching or taffeta at the bottom, so they extend beyond the fro k. • • • The colored slip is in vogue and summer frocks of sheer linen, mnusa-- line de soie or batiste have pink. blu*\ yellow or green silk lining. The T girdles worn with these costumes are usually of a contrasting color. • • • In millinery the single red rose is a note Which bids fair to beconi. • \ tremely popular. It nestles among folds of black or white tulle, clings to the edge of the brim, hangs over the hair on the underbrim or forms a spikelike arrangement at the back. The large garden hats of leghorn, mallne end lace are trimmed with black velvet ribbon, drawn about the crown and. passing through the slits at the back, is tied in a Mai bow at the back. A single flower placed at the side near the edge of the brim completes the trimming. • • • Coats shbw great diversity of length, plain tailor-made models being shorter than dressier models, in which coats may reach to knees. • • • One pretty feature of recent sum mer frocks has been the lace jacket or coatee with its trimming of fur or of swansdown. Ermine is being used for this purpose, sometimes forming a wide collar at the back. Wide lace bretelles are another feature of late fashions. They are a poor second, it must be admitted, to the surplice and the fichu. But anything that has the temerity to dispute the claims of these two effects deserves some no tice. • • • Apropos of furs, it is reported that Bechoff- David recently introduced fox scarfs dyed a reddish shade; and the somewhat alarming suggestion is made that next winter we shall see furs artificially colored in brilliant tints. It is rather appalling .to think of blue, green, red and violet furs! * • # The cincture that suggests the plas ter babies of Lucas della Robia. at the Orphanage in Florence, is strong ly suggested in some of the sashes that wrap around the waist and gir dle the torso of the fashionable wom an. When these long sashes first ap peared they were not liked, but the public taste now finds them pictur esque. * • • Velvet, brocaded velvet and metallic brocades are going to be the favored fabrics for these garments in the au tumn and winter, just as they are now, and the fur collars that make them smart in summer—according to fashions paradoxical whims—will make them practical as well as smart when the theater and opera seasons begin. • * • Many women are wearing eyelet embroidered stockings in white, black and colors; also white and black silk stockings ornamented with embroid ery or insets of lace. The girls who are clever with the needle can fashion these expensive stockings for them selves. and pretty color notes to match the gowns may be introduced. • • • Popular prizes at the bridge con tests held by the sea are the bathing girl pin cushions. Bisque jointed dolls dressed in n<d and white and blue and white striped bathing suits are mounted on cushions of Turkish tow eling. Some are very prim looking, with the hair in two long braids; oth ers suggest the mermaid with flowing hair. The cushions are shown in ovals, squares, circles, etc., and are arranged to hang up and stand. They are fitted with pins and trimmed with ribbons to match the bathing suits. • • • It is almost compulsory for the blue serge suit to have a vest or waist coat. and all sorts of materials are being used for them. The new du- vetyns—a successor to the velvety velours de laine—in the lovely soft colorings are ideal for these waist coats. • * • Chiffon veils are being embroidered, the work being done in floss of the same color. The pattern in all these veils must be so arranged as to make the plain mesh area, whether over the entire face or simply over the eyes, conspicuously transparent by way of contrast. • • * Now that the pendulum of fashion has swung In the direction of pleated skirts they threaten to become ubiq uitous. Women are discovering that the little loose folds at the feet are very becoming, and also that pleated skirts do not really add width to the figure. The sunray pleats are in great demand for mich materials as char meuse, silk cashmere and tussor, but fof crepe de chine and chiffon noth ing can take the place of the fine ac cordion pleats. • • * In the world of fashion things are frequently topsy-turvy. The unex pected is always welcome. Now that valuable jewels are worn on hats and shoes the homely, but always effective Jet ornaments are given a place of honor. Round Jet brackets are the latest fad, and they are worn with light and fragile summer gowns of lace and chiffon. * • * The black .and \/h ; te season in the world of Fashion is now upon us. After the garish colors of the spring* there has come a complete revulsion of feeling. Women of taste have grown disgusted with the cobf schemes in which crude tints were thrown together by unskilled hands, at the bidding of inartistic brains. Bulgarian tints have sounded the knel] of crude colors; for the moment we are black and white or “pastel.” And for the Trouville season, of which I shall speak In detail In a future article, an amazing number of pure white costumes are being made White linen, white China silk, white embroidered lawn—thes^ and many other dainty materials are in constant request for seaside dresses As .o fine white tulle it Is being used for a dozen different purposes—for dresses, mantles, millinery, blouses, etc. Very lovely summer gowns are those made of wide-mesbed silk net. the net which bears the name of “Tosca.” These gowns are mounted over pleated slips of chiffon or crepe de chine and very frequently they are decorated with tiers of graduated flounces. Or dinary Brussels net Is also fashion able just now. especially for draped mantles and for pleated waistcoats, the latter being used in connection with tailored suits of fine serge or linen. • * • A pretty fashion has been revived for children’s summer frocks of thin material This is the long-ended bow of ribbon, fastened just below the left shoulder. The ribbon, in soft shades of blue or pink, is made into a many-looped rosette, quite in the old fashion, and from the rosette hang three or four streamer ends. The ribbon should not be more than an inch or an inch and a half wide. Decollete Gowns for Day Wear The newest models for gowns cre ated by the leading dressmakers for the seasons at the fsahionable seaside resorts present several novel fea tures In t^e first place, the greater number of these gowns would have been pronounced evening dresses by our mothers, but not by our great- great-grandmothers, who themselves wore decollete corsages in the day time. The sleeves of the elaborate aft ernoon gown of to-day are so short and so skimpy that they hardly de serve to be called sleeves at all. In many cases the corsages of garden party and race gowns do not have the pointed back and front effect which is peculiar to the evening dresses of to day. but are made round on the shoulders, quite in the style of certain 1830 gowns. White fox stoles and borders are freely used in conjunc tion with such robes as these. A quaint but exceedingly picturesque idea.