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L ADY DUFF-CORDON, the famous “Lucile” of London, and fore
most creator of fashions in the world, writes each week the fashion
article for this newspaper, presenting all that is newest and best in
styles for well-dressed women.
Lady Duff-Gordon’s Pans establishment brings her into close touch
with that centre of fashion.
Lady Duff-Gordon’s American establishment is at Nos. 37 and 39
West Fifty-seventh street. New York.
money or In return for his love.
Few women will admit that they live but to
get married, and few men will admit that they
are Influenced by the clothes a woman wears.
There may be men who do not know or care
what a woman wears, but I doubt it They may
not be able to tell whether her gown is made
of satin or cloth, but they know if it is becom
ing, if it Is smart and if it looks expensive,
ing, if It is smart and if it lboks expensive.
My friend James Barrie is of the opinion
that what every woman knows is that Eve was
made out of Adam's funny-bone. But I do not
agree with him. What every woman knows is
that she has to keep one step ahead of the
woman next door or around the corner in order
to make herself noticed in the marriage mar
ket. it is this feeling pure and simple that has
created in woman the desire for display. She
knows that a man likes to feel that every other
man envies him the handsomely dressecj wom
an tie is seen with in public. At a dance a
man enjoys the feeling that he is dancing with
the best dressed woman In the room.
These thoughts were rather forcibly brought
to mind one day last week when r attended a
garden party, which was nothing more nor
less than a matrimonial grab bag under the
auspices of a clrhrming matron who has three
worn as a corsage is a glowing crimson.
In what surroundings is woman at her
best? In the ballroom, at the dinner
table or over the teacups? Who dare
say? I had the tea hour in mind when I
chose the delectable little rose and gold
costume with its flesh-colored bodice and
sleeves and its long, graceful lines.
There is dignity about the dinner cos
tume of black chiffon over white that
harmonious. A dinner gown
should be dignified in fabric
if not in design. This is so
in both.
1 nearly every costume 1
chose rose was used in some
way, because rose is the color
of allurement.
AT1NG is the strongest Instinct of fem
inine nature. No matter what entic
ing arguments the Feminists ad
vance to strengthen their case, every
woman brave enough to hold a mirror up to
her soul knows that this Instinct is the main
spring of her life. It guides her from her
youth up. It lies dormant during childhood, but
as girlhood advances it begins to “sit up and
take notice," as you would say in America.
The most natural thing in the world, there
fore, is the preening of feathers which the girl
begins early in her teens. Whatever her social
position may be, she wants to look pretty just
for one reason in the world—to win a man’s
love or to keep it after it is won.
Until a woman is married life is to her not
only a battleground where she fights for her
man, but a market place in which she displays
her wares. The debutante, top young to grasp
entirely the meaning of the wonderful "com
ing-out" wardrobe provided by her mother,
nevertheless does her part nobly in making the
most of her small talents. She knows that she
has a part to play.
The older woman is more'fully alive to the
end she is striving for, and there is more art
in her market display. The woman who has
already disposed of her wares is naturally keen
about keeping the buyer in subjection, and
employs her art in never letting him realize
how very little, after all, he is getting for his
daughters to marry off. And she was sur
rounded by matrons who also had their daugh
ters to settle in life. Each girl in question was
dressed with the utmost care. And invariably
it was the girl with the most striking costume
who won the first attention from the male
beings who thronged the "market"
From this party I went to an opening, where
1 met a very much fatigued mother. “Help
me choose some gowns for my daughter,” she
said on meeting me. “Nothing too girlish, for
she has really passed the 'jeune fille - age.”
I am sending you this week the "Marriage
Market" gowns l selected for this mother.
They are. as you can see, somewhat extreme
in style, but what would you? This daughter
must keep ahead of the daughter of some other
mother. The two afternoon costumes, while
extreme, are not outre nor groteoue. The
chrysanthemum costume is striking in color
and very graceful in line. The gown is white
charmeuse; the draped coat is a flame-colored
charmeuse just the color of the chrysanthe
mum she wears; the sash is a flame velvet.
Her bag and her hat supply the needed touch
of black. This costume worn by the slender
brunette girl for whom it was bought will
make an impression in the market, even
though the times be dull.
The other afternoon costume is a daring
combination of blue and white. The large rose
Handsome Dinner Costume of Embroidered
Black Chiffon Over White, with
Girdle of Rose Satin.