Atlanta Georgian. (Atlanta, Ga.) 1912-1939, August 31, 1913, Image 6

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6 D M RS. HERBERT CLARK, in the pown that she says is the most modest in her eolleetion of filmv habiliments. By MME. HAUTE MONDE T HE rasre for tulle In all forms increases. Tulle hats are to be MOB in all the beat millinery •tudins and on the heads of all the notable leaders of society, and tulle hate of a vary elaborate order. • • • The Pmrlslennee are using: P«l* heliotrope face powder In conjunc tion with the new veils. The effect good when very little powder is used, but, of course, it is artificial. Deep yellow face powders have quite gore out of favor; and no wonder. A few month* ago it was an ordinary thing to meet a throng of beautifully dressed women who all looked as though they were suffering from jaundice. • • • Cut Jet earrings, when the design Is thin and graceful, are wonderfully be coming. They have the effect of mak ing thin faces look round and fat faces look thin. For morning wear cut Jet earrings are considered spe cially correct, and they are worn In conjunction with handsome Jet hat pins and very often with elaborate celnture buckles. • • • The woman who can sew or who knows a capable and Inexpensive seamstress can have much dainty un derwear at a reasonable price. Wide shadow late is now sold at prices varying from 40 cents to $1 It is edg*d on each aide with holes through which ribbon is to be run, and it is designed for under bodices. One rib bon is run through the lower edge, to gather it In about the waist Another is run through the top edge The ends of the ribbons are tied in front and ribbons are fastened across the •boulders. I • • • Patent leather shoes, always a boon to man or womankind, because they are so easily kept clean and bright, are made up with kid and cloth In many style*. One patent leather shot? has cloth uppers, in the form of at tached spats, with straps going under the arch of the foot where they are fastened in the *ole. These shoes are made with spats of purple, tan, gray and black. • • * Shirtwaist gowns made of white wash net are a novelty. The girdles worn with these gowns are made of black or colored satin, and are worn at the normal waistline. The hip •ash is no longtr seen on the ultra- modish costume • * * Accordion pleated Indian muslin and accordion pleated chiffon, these are the favorite materials for this season’s afternoon dresses, and these pleatings are arranged in many dif ferent ways. Sometimes the flounces are placed on the skirt In graduated widths, sometimes the whole skirt is pleated from waist to hem. t • • Hatpins when used at all should be uncommon and beautiful or they should be frankly useful. Just ball headed pins made of Jet. There is no excuse for the pretentious pins which many women wear in conspicuous parts of their hats, imitation pearls and imitation diamonds of the most blatant description. A very charm ing idea is at present finding favor. This is a set which Is composed of a pair of Jeweled hatpins and a veil brooch to match. • • • The new idea In drapery on after noon and evening gowns is a butterfly bow at the back between the waist and knees. It Is a part of the tunic and is made by catching up the long ends at the back and forming them into a colossal butterfly which is flat tened out against the surface of the gown. Below this the skirt is draped in its usual manner, with long bias lines reaching from the front • • • For Httla (rlrlfi flgurad dimity para sols are attractive They are Inex pensive and durable and really sim pler and more childlike than those of ■Ilk. • • • All silk blouses should be made •imply. It is now the fashion to omit tucks and pleats and make a deep •houlder yoke which is finished with •earn beading or a piping of the ma terial. The lowered armhole with a loose sleeve is by far the best for a schoolgirl, because it is less likely to tear out; the length of thf. sleeve Is for her to decide; the wrist length is the prettier, but the elbow length Is more comfortable and economical. • • • The one-piece frock is the bulwark of the schoolgirl’s outfit to-day. It may be of heavy linen, cotton crash, or eponge; or it may be of thin serge, woolen ratine or corduroy. The latter Is a lasting material and fits in with achool life. It always has been worn ■»4Lnd it probably always will be. •*->- * • • Plaids in silk and wool both prom ise to be very much with us once the fall season opens. And with the plaids comes a revival of Roman •tripes. • • • A particularly charming silk cos tume is made in a soft, wine-colored taffeta. The skirt is side pleated, and pleats, it is promised, will become more fashionable as the summer rolls into fall. The bodice simulates a g cut on the bolero liiww,. find is edged with a niching of the taffeta. It slopes into a point in the back, and is open in the front to dis play a lace vest and a wide sash of •ouple green taffeta arranged to fall in the back in four loops finished with deep fringe A new touch is added by the collar of black tulle with immense wings at the sides. *00 There is one exception to the high trimming, and that is on the velvet hat with the Tarn o' Shanter crown, but here the extreme tilt of the hat lends the ffect of height. Correctly speaking, the black velvet •^•tumes, and the jaunty little while * should be saved for the afternoon should be worn in the morning. the water, thesf whti* - fre being worn wi:i. while- Hn n and suits. They aro smartest Her ‘Most Modest Gown Slit to Knee’ English Actress Sorry She Did Not Wear Her Best in Filmy Frocke. NEW YORK, Aug. 30.—It’s too bad that Mrs. Herbert Clark, who arrived on the Mauretania to play in “Oh, I Hay," didn’t know that America ia much interested In •''lit and X ray skirts or she would have worn the best Instead of the most modest gown that she has In the filmy, diaphanous line She obligingly posed, however, in “the modest” gown, w’hich was slit to the knee, while the ship’s news re porters wondered what the one she declared “stunned” those who looked at it might be like. There were plenty of other frocks of the filmy variety on board, and the wearers vied with each other to see who could don the most startling cos tume. Passengers whose berths were on the moonshiny side of the prome nade deck lost much sleep peeling through their windows as the fair hikers passed up and down the deck between them and the moon. when they are kept very simple. A few have a touch of color intro duced in the under facing of the felt brim, but the majority are all white. While the yellow shades are not a* chic as during the summer, they are considered smart, especially the 111- leul, which resembles an unripe lem on more than any other color. Tne canary and the sulphur tones are also fashionable, particularly for trimming and where merely a dash of color is required. For instance, there is a very stunning new vesting In a bright yellow tone with conventional flowers in red, which has been or dered by the knowing couturiers. Be fore leaving yellow, the soft beig* and biscuit shad o should be men tioned, H6 they are very well liked in the lightweight cloths and in silks, such as charmeuse and satin. Blue has lost none of its prestige, and some authorit.es say that the new blue series should be given first place rather than the copper tints. Of the blues, the new blue a shade deeper than peac ock blue Is a great favorite, end also the corbeau. The soft blues on the Nattier and Dutch order arc very desirable, and the very dark blue shares the demand for somber color ings. The red shades vary widely. There is a very bright red, an almost bar baric red. that is very well liked by the couturiers who go in for vivid colorings, but the majority of reds blend into the dregs of wine tints and the »oft brick colorings. For evening wraps the geranium red Is in great demand. There is also a purple with quantities of red in it. a shade which Nature has reproduced in the fuchsia. As against this there is the violine. or very deep violet, with a bluish tinge. The browns must not be overlooked, for all of the couturiers have made much of them, the tobacco and Ha vana browns leading. A soft, pretry rose tint was combined with brown on several very effective costumes. This rose tint mus. be recorded be cause it has appeared in nmny of the duvetyn coats For the street, the dark, rich shades, the tete de negre, a deep taupe, ana a blue that is almost black are con sidered the most fashionable. An other new color is called heather, a lovely soft grayish lavender, that Is particularly attractive in a silky tex ture. There is still a demand for or ange, which the vogue for both yellow and red naturally would continue, but it Is used almost exclusively for trim ming. And everywhere there is silver —quantities of silver. Many of the damask broohes are heavily emhro!d_ ered in silver threads, while silver lace 5s considered more chic inan goid lace. TTEAKST’S SUNDAY AMERICAN, ATLANTA, GA., SUNDAY, AUGUST 31. 1913. order to show a circular pleating of violet tulle. A band and embroidered buckle In a similar velvet surround thf. waist, and shoes of the same material are worn over violet silk stockings. Buttons and Scarf Worn. The dress is in white linen, with the lower part of the Jacket worked in raised white cotton. .Large motifs of Irish point, outlined with narrow cord, are incrusted in square niece.* starting from each shoulder, and hi insertion of Valenciennes heads ti i wide hem of the skirt beneath a don* ble row of mother-of-pearl buttons. A scarf in violet chiffon completes this pretty dress. There is a craze at all the fashion able resorts for oval white felt hats. These are very simple and easily packed. Necklaces Used on Hats. The hats can be made extremely attractive with a trimming of black velvet ribbon, tied plainly around, with two short ends furnished with white or silver tassels, but some smart women have gone considerably further, and now adorn these simple hats with red, blue or green necklaces in uncut stones. Others, very young ones, trim the hats with baby ribbon or garlands of the tiniest flowers. SKIRTS FOR MEM BATHERS, NOT WOMEN, SAYS LEADER Riot of Exotic Tints Prevails in Fall Offerings—Nothing Un der $400 at Worth’s. Special Cable to The American. PARIS, Aug 30.—Paris has gone color mad if the general effect of the first display of fall fashions may he summed up in a single phrase. The great makers of women’s costumes are rejoicing at this development. Goods in colors have never been so heavily bought as at present, which is regarded as a healthy sign of busi- FID SEIZED BE Fashion Born at French Watering Places Attains Sudden Vogue in English Capital. Special Cable to The American. LONDON, Aug. 30.—Some ravish ing costumes in violet and white have been seen at the smart French water ing places, and London copied them almost the next day, with the result that brides-elect are choosing this color combination for some of their trousseau gowns. Miss Glencoats, one of the great English heiresses, who is marrying Major Parsons next month, is having a charming gown made for casino use, and with it a very original hat will be worn. Something Like Jockey’s Cap. To take the violet velvet hat first, It is copied from the First Empire and bears some resemblance to a joc key’s cap. but the up-to-date mil liner has broadened the crown and brim and turned back the latter in MADISON, WIS., Aug. 30.—H. D. McChesney, swimming instructor at the University of Wisconsin, in charge of the Brittingham Park bath ing beach during the summer, thinks men should be censured in the mat ter of bathing garb more than wo men. “I think men should be compelled to wear bathing suits with a short skirt," he said. The name of the Russian artist Leon Bakst is heard on all sides. Many gowns are named after cos tumers which he has mounted, espe cially at Callot Soeurs’. This house, as usual, was the last to show its styles, but when It did it outcolored all the rest. The pisanelle, its moif gorgeous evening gown, which Is named after D’Annunzio's play, is a dazzling arrangement or derangement in green, with amethyst Jewels and silver brocade mysterieuse. About $20 a yard wholesale is not an unusual price for the materials for wraps, while $6 a yard for double width silk velvet is considered a mod erate price. More ample draperies are being used, and this makes the manufacturers happy. Skirts of satin with knife pleats held in place all around please them very much, as do also the longer coats which Cherut and Polret are showing. Some of these reach to the ankles. Paquln also has long coats of Louis XV style with gorgeous waistcoats. Premet’s wide girdles that pull down over the hips with no break at the waist line are much admired. Pre met’s show pieces with a wired pan nier on one hip caused much com ment. Fallot Soeurs’ waist line Is pulled up in front higher than .ever. They retain the narrow skirts. Most of the other houses show longer waists. The skirts are given volume by quiltings of ribbon. Flounces and laces are not unusual. Entire lace tunics of filmy draperies are other prevalent features. Shimmering metals brocaded on brilliant colors promise a winter of gorgeousness which has rarely been surpassed. Added to this is the in evitable fur trimming. All the known furs and furs that one never heard of before are used. In Worth’s redecorated salons $400 has been made the minimum price for any gown. Prices generally, how ever, are thought to be somewhat less exorbitant than heretofore. England to Provide Silks, Ireland Linen, Scotland Tweeds, and Wales Corsets. Special Cable to The American. LONDON, Aug. 30.—The Duchess of Fife is to have an "all-British" trousseau for her marriage to Prince Arthur of Connaught. Orders have already been sent out. England, Ireland, Scotland and Wales are all receiving their share; England is to provide the silks and other costly textiles as well as gloves and footwear, Ireland the linen and lacc. while Scotland and Wales will supply tweeds and woolens and cor sets. The young duchess will have eight bridesmaids. Four will be princesses —Princes? Maud, her sister. Princess Mary; Princess Patricia of Connaught and Princess Mary of Teck. Prince John and Prince Olaf of Norway will carry the bridal train. A1 the royalties in England will be present at the ceremony. By oartlo- ular request of the Duke or Coe- naught one or two representative® at the Dominion of Canada, of which h* is Governor General, will be Included in the invitations. Real Trousers Worn By Western Woman Business Demands Dress as Sever# as Man’s, 8aye Employee of Grocery. STOCKTON, Aug. 30.—Something new in feminine apparel has been donned by Mrs. K. Faraeias, employed in the shipping department of a local wholesale grocery, in the form of a combination trouser and skirt erilt. “I have worked for the company for many years,’’ says Mrs. Faraclaa. “In that time I have become con vinced that the business woman should adopt a mode of dress as severely plain as that of man. I have worked alongside men for so long that I do not think I am far off the track in this idea of mine.’’ During working hours Mrs. Fara- cias wears the trousers and a soft black and white boy’s shirt. When she is on the street, a straight, two- piece skirt is worn, buttoned onto the waistband of the trousers and fasten ed by tailored straps at the side, al lowing access, however, to all six trouser pockets. Two Hundred Shoe Salesmen Are Leaving LYNCHBURG With 20 Car Loads of Shoe Samples These 200 knights of the sample case will take with them from eight hundred to a thousand trunks containing approximately two hundred thousand (200,000) shoe samples. LYNCHBURG is “The South’s Shoe Center.” It occupies the same relative position in the South as a shoe distribution point that Boston occupies In the North— and the supremacy of LYNCHBURG as “The South’s Shoe Center” is due to the su premacy of LYNCHBURG Shoes. When You Buy LYNCHBURG Shoes You Are Patronizing Southern Industry From Which Every Southerner Must Eventually Benefit