Atlanta Georgian. (Atlanta, Ga.) 1912-1939, August 31, 1913, Image 18

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6 D TTEARST'S SUNDAY AMERICAN, ATLANTA, OA., SUNDAY, AUGUST 31, 1913. M RS. HERBERT CLARK, in the (.'own that she says is the most modest, in her collection of filmy habiliments. By MME HAUTE MONDE T HE ra*e for tulle In all forma Increases. Tulle hats are to bs seen In all the beat millinery studios and on the heads of all the notable leaders of society, and tulle hats of a very elaborate order. • • * Th# Parlalcnnes are using pal® heliotrop# face powder In conjunc tion with the new veils. The effect :* good when very little powder Is used, but, of course, It Is artificial. Deep yellow fac# powders have quite gone out of favor; and no wonder. A few months ago It was an ordinary thing to meet a throng of beautifully dressed women who all looked as though they were suffering from Jaundice. • • • Cut Jet earrings, when the design Is thin and graceful, are wonderfully be coming They have the effect of mak- lng thin faces look round and fat faces look thin. For morning wear cut Jet earrings are considered spe cially correct, and they are worn 1n conjunction with handsome Jet hat pins and very often with elaborate celnture buckles * • • The woman who can sew or who knows a capable and Inexpensive seamstress can have much dainty un derwear at a reasonable price. Wide shadow lace Is now sold at prices varying from 40 cents to $1. It is edged on each side with holes through which ribbon is to be run, and It is designed for under bodices. One rib bon is run through the lower edge, to gather It In about the waist Another is run throurh the top edge. Tne ends of the ribbons are tied In from and ribbons are fastened across »be shoulders. • • • Patent leather shoes, alwara a boon to man or womankind, because they sre so easily kept dean and bright, are made up with kid and cloth in many styles. One patent leather shoe has cloth uppers, in the form of at tached spats. Tlth straps going under the arch of the foot where they are fastened in the -iole. These shoes are made with spats of purple, tan. gray and black. • • • Shirtwaist gowns made of whfe wash net are a novelty. The girdles worn with these eowns are made of black or colored satin, and are worn at the normal waistline. The hip Fash is no longer seen on the ultra- modish costume. • * • Accordion pleated Indian muslin and accordion pleated chiffon, these are the favorite materials for this season’s afternoon dresses, and these pleatlngs are arranged in many dif ferent ways. Sometimes the flounces are placed on the skirt In gra<1 uated widths, sometimes the whole skirt Is pleated froan waist to hem. • • * Hatpins when used at all should be uncommon and beautiful or they should be frankly useful, Just ball headed pins made of Jet. There Is no excuse for the pretentious pins which many women wear In conspicuous parts of their hats, Imitation pearls and imitation diamonds of the most blatant description. A very' charm ing idea Is at present finding favor. This Is a set which is composed of a pair of Jeweled hatpins and a veil brooch to match. • • • The new idea In drapery r»n after noon and evening gowns is a butterfly bow at the back between the waist and knees. It Is a part of the tunic and is made by catching up the long ends at the back and forming them Into a colossal butterfly which Is flat tened out against the surface of the jown. Below' this th e skirt Is draped In Its usual manner, with long bias lines reaching from the front. • • • For Tittle girls figured dimity para- aols are attractive. They are inex pensive and durable and really sim pler and more childlike than those of Bilk. • • • All silk blouses should be made ■imply. It is now the fashion t<> omit tucks and pleats and make a deep shoulder yoke w'hich Is finished with Beam beading or a piping of the ma terial. The lowered armhole with a loose sleeve is by far the best for a schoolgirl, because it is less likely to tear out; the length of the sleeve Is for her to decide; the wrist length Is the prettier, but the elbow length is more comfortable and economical. • • • The one-piece frock Is the bulwark of the schoolgirl’s outfit to-day. It may be of heavy linen, cotton crash, or eponge; or It may be of thin serge, woolen ratine or corduroy. The latter is a lasting material and fits in with school life It always has been worn and it probably always will be. VI* Plaids in ailk and w'ool both prom ise to be very much with us once the fall scaAon opens. And with the plaids comes a revival of Homan etripes. • • • A particularly charming silk cos tume is made in a soft, wine-colored taffeta. The skirt is side pleated, and pleats, it is promised, will become more fashionable as the summer rolls into fall. The bodice ' simulates a cut on the bolero lines, and is edged with a ruching of the taffeta. It slopes into a point in the back, and is open in the front to dis play a lace vest and a wide sash of couple green taffeta arranged to fall in the back in four loops finished with deep fringe. A new touch is added by fhe collar <»f black tulle with immense wings at the sides. • • • There Is one exception to the high trimming, and that is on the velvet hat with the Tam o’ Shanter crown, but here the extreme tilt of the hat lends the ffect of height Correctly speaking, the black velvet costumes, and the jaunty little white \at should be saved for the afternoon 0xat should be worn In the morning. Across the water, these white satin hats are being worn with white linen frocks and suits. They are smartest Her ‘Most Modest Gown Slit to Knee 1 English Actress Sorry She Did Not Wear Her Best in Filmy Frocks. NFTW YORK, Aug. 30.—It’s too bad that Mrs. Herbert (Mark, who arrived on the Mauretania to play in *‘()h, I Hay,” didn’t know that America is much interested in silt and X-ray skirts or she would have worn the best instead of the most modeHt gown that she has in the filmy, diaphanous line. She obligingly posed, however, in "the modest” gown, which was silt to the knee, while the ship’s news re porters wondered what the one she declared "stunned” those who looked at it might be like. There were plenty of other frocks of the filmy variety on board, and the wearers vied with each other to see who could don the most startling cos tume Passengers whose berths were on the moonshlny side of the prome nade deck lost much sleep peering through their windows as the fair hikers passed up and down the deck between them and the moon. FID SEIZED I! L Fashion Born at French Watering Places Attains Sudden Vogue in English Capital. Special Cable to The American. LONDON, Aug. 30.—Some ravish ing costumes In violet and white have been seen at the smart French water ing places, and London copied them almost the next day, with the result that brides-elect are choosing this color combination for some of their trousseau gowns. Miss Glencoats, one of the great English heiresses, who is marrying Major Parsons next month, is having a charming gown made for casino use, and with it a very original hat will be worn. Something Like Jockey's Cap. To take the violet velvet hat first, it is copied from the First Empire and bears some resemblance to a Jocke»y’H cap, but the up-to-date mil liner has broadened the crown and brim and turned back the latter in order to show a circular pleating of violet tulle. A hand and embroidered buckle in a similar velvet surround th«* waist, and shoes of the same material are worn over violet silk stockings. Buttons and Scarf Worn. The dress is in white linen, with the lower part of the Jacket worked In raised white cotton. Large motifs of Irish point, outlined with narrow cord, are incru»ted in square niece-* starting from each shoulder, and :ii insertion of Valenciennes heads til wide hem of the skirt beneath a dou♦ ble row of mother-of-pearl buttons. A scarf in violet chiffon completes this pretty dress. There is a craze at all the fashion able resorts for ovaJ white felt hats. These are very simple and easily packed. Necklaces Used on Hats. The hats can be made extremely attractive with a trimming of black velvet ribbon, tied plainly around, with two short ends furnished with white for silver tassels, but some smart women have gone considerably further, and now adorn these simple hats w’ith red, blue or green necklaces in uncut stones. Others, very young ones, trim the hats with baby ribbon or garlands of the tiniest flowers. SKIRTS FOR MEN BATHERS, NOT WOMEN, SAYS LEADER MADISON, WIS., Aug. 30.—H. D. McChesney, swimming instructor at the University of Wisconsin. in charge of the Brittlngham Park bath ing beach during the summer, thinks men should be censured in the mat ter of bathing garb more than wo men. "I think men should be compelled to wear bathing suits with a short skirt,” he said. Riot of Exotic Tints Prevails in Fall Offerings—Nothing Un der $400 at Worth’s. Special Cable to The American. PARIS, Aug. 30.—Paris has gone color mad if the general effect of the first display of fall fashions may be summed up In a single phrase. The great makers of women’s costumes are rejoicing at this development. Goods in colors have never been so heavily bought as at present, which is regarded as a healthy sign of busi ness. The name of the Russian artist Leon Bakst is heard on all sides. Many gowns are named after cos tumers which he has mounted, espe cially at Callot Soeurs’. This house, as usual, was the last to show its styles, but when It did It outcolored all the rest. The pisanelle, its most gorgeous evening gown, which is named after D'Annunzio’s play, Is a dazzling arrangement or derangement in green, with amethyst Jewels and silver brocade mysterleuse. About $20 a yard wholesale is not an unusual price for the materials for wraps, w'hile $6 a yard for double width silk velvet is considered a mod erate price. More ample draperies are being used, and this makes the manufacturers happy. Skirts of satin with knife pleats held In place all around please them very much, as do also the longer coats which Cherut and Polret are showing. Some of these reach to the ankles. Paquin also has long coats of Louis XV style with gorgeous waistcoats. Premet’s wide girdles that pull down over the hips with no break at the waist line are much admired. Pre- met’s show pieces with a wired pan nier on one hip caused much com ment. Uallot Soeurs’ waist line is pulled up in front higher than ever. They retain the narrow skirts. Most of the other houses show longer waists. The skirts are given volume by quiltings of ribbon. Flounces and laces are not unusual. Entire lace tunica of filmy draperies are other prevalent features. Shimmering metals brocaded on brilliant colors promise a winter of gorgeousness which has rarely been surpassed. Added to this Is the in evitable fur trimming. All the known furs and furs that one never heard of before are used. In Worth’s redecorated salons $400 has been made the minimum price for any gown. Prices generally, how ever, are thought to be somewhat less exorbitant than heretofore. England to Provide Silks, Ireland Linen, Scotland Tweeds, and Wales Corsets. John and Prince Olaf of Norway wtU carry the bridal train. A1 the royalties In England will be present at the ceremony. By partic ular request of the Duke or Con naught one or two representatives oi the Dominion of Canada, of which he Is Governor General, will be Included in the invitations. Real Trousers Worn By Western Woman Business Demands Dress as Sever* as Man’s, Says Employee of Grocery. Special Cable to The American. LONDON, Aug. 30.—The Duchess of Fife is to have an “all-British” trousseau for her marriage to Prince Arthur of Connaught. Orders have already been sent out. England, Ireland, Scotland and Wales are all receiving their share; England is to provide the silks and other costly textiles as well as gloves and footwear, Ireland the linen and lacc, while Scotland and W*,les will supply tweeds and woolens and cor sets. The young duchess will have eight bridesmaids. Four will be princesses —Princess Maud, her sister. Princess Mary; Princess Patricia of Connaught and Princess Mary of Teck. Prince STOCKTON, Aug. 30.—Something new in feminine apparel has been donned by Mrs. K. Faraclas, employed in the shipping department of a local wholesale grocery, In the form of a combination trouser and skirt suit. “I have worked for the company for many years.” says Mrs. Faraclas. “In that time I have become con vinced that the business woman should adopt a mode of dress as severely plain as that of man. I have worked alongside men for so long that I do not think I am far off the track In this idea of mine.” During working hours Mrs. Fara- cias wears the trousers and a soft black and white boy’s shirt. When she is on the street, a straight, two- piece skirt is worn, buttoned onto the waistband of the trousers and fasten ed by tailored straps at the side, al lowing access, however, to all six trouser pockets. whon they are kept very simple. A few have a touch of color intro duced In the under facing of the felt brim, but the majority are all white. • • • While the yellow shades are not as chic as during the summer, they are considered smart, especially the r 11- leul, which resembles an unripe lem on more than any other color. Tne canary and the sulphur tones are also fnshionable, particularly for trimming and where merely a dash of color is required. For instance, there la a very stunning now vesting In a bright yellow tofie with conventional flowers in red. which has been or dered by the knowing couturiers. Be fore leaving yellow, the soft beige and biscuit shad a should be men tioned, as they are very well liked In the lightweight cloths and in silks, such as charmeuse and satin. Blue has lost none of Its prestige, and some authorises say that the new blue series should be given first place rather than the copper tints Of the blues, the new blue a shade deeper than peacock blue Is a great favorite, and also the corbeau. The soft blues on the Nattier and Dutch order uro very desirable, and the very dark blue shares the demand for somber color ings. Th© red shades vary widely. There Is a very bright red. an almost bar baric red. that is very well liked by the couturiers who go In for vivid colorings, but the majority of reds blend into the dregs of wine tints and the soft brick colorings. For evening wraps the geranium red is :n great demand There is also a purple with quantities of red in It. a shade which Nature has reproduced in the ' I Inst this there is the violine. or very deep violet, with a bluish tinge. The browns must not be overlooked, for all of the couturiers have made much of them, the tobacco and Ha vana browns leading A soft, pretry rose tint was combined with brown on several very effective costumes. This rose tint mus. be recorded be cause it has appeared in many of the duvetyn coats. For the street, the dark, rich shades, the tete de negre. a deep taupe, ana a blue that Is almost black are con sidered the most fashionable An other new color Is called heather, a lovely soft grayish lavender, that Is particularly attractive in a silky tex ture. There is still a demand for or ange, which the vogue for both yellow and red naturally would continue, but it Is used almost exclusively for trim ming. And everywhere there is silver —quantities of silver. Many of the damask broches are heavily embrold_ ered in silver threads, while silver lace is considered more chic ».nan gold lace. Two Hundred Shoe Salesmen Are Leaving LYNCHBURG With 20 Car Loads of Shoe Samples These 200 knights of the sample case will take with them from eight hundred to a thousand trunks containing approximately two hundred thousand (200,000) shoe samples. LYNCHBURG is “The South’s Shoe Center.” It occupies the same relative position in the South as a shoe distribution point that Boston occupies in the North— and the supremacy of LYNCHBURG as “The Souths Shoe Center” is due to the su premacy of LYNCHBURG Shoes. When You Buy LYNCHBURG Shoes You Are Patronizing Southern Industry From Which Every Southerner Must Eventually Benefit * VV '-V. . .