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10 H ITEARRT’S SUNDAY AMERICAN, ATLANTA, GA„ SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 14, imB. TIGHTEST OP TIGHT GOWNS NEWPORT IS STARTLED AGAIN By MME HAUTE MONDE. C n RANTED that th* butterfly tn -j the most prominent trimming feature of the hour, whether on smell or large hats, the tendency Is toward feathery decorations of va rious typea Tbt ostrich plume Is be tng used more extensively than for many years, and particularly by the Paris milliners who cater to the American trade. It Is ostrich in all Its curly beauty that Is used to-day. rha uncurled, dr&ggv looking feather of the last few r seaaoha having dis appeared from the new hats. These mounts of ostrich may be arranged at ths back or at the side where the brim breaks or curves upward • • • The newest corsage sachets to he pinned somewhere beneath the trane parent veiling of the waist—are small colored satin bags Incased in real cluny lace cases The pink, blue or lavender satin cases are slipped Into the outer lace cases and fastened with removable ribbons. »«' that dif ferent colored satin cases may he used It is not a difficult undertak ing to make these dainty corsage sa chets at home. • • • The demand for fur of every de scription has brought into existence the imitation for cloths, which are ho cleverly made that It requires a care ful scrutiny to discover the differ ence between t*he broadtail cloth and the genuine pelt. The mole pelt has been equally well imitated, and. like the broadtail, conies in the natural coloring, black and green. These fur cloths are all-ailk materials, and, combined with velvet, make very handsome street costumes. • ♦ • Small clusters of bright-colored, unnatural looking fruits give the de sired dash of color to many of the little hats which tilt over the face and flare high In the back. This is a development of the ntnlche hat, or rather, one should say, an adaptation. In order to make It more becoming the brim In the front Is broken, as In shown tn the drawing, for unleas one is blessed with the piquant type of countenance these hats accentuate one's age The piquant face, with small features, such as nine out of ten French women possess. Is the onlv type that looks well In the* very small hats, though many of them are Imported and worn by Americans who in other matters of dress have un questioned taste. The majority of these little hats are fashioned from taffeta or velvet • • • Supple white satin 1s the favorite material of milliners to-day. It is combined with linen and with velvet or moire. One of the newest face veils is made of fine silk tulle in a pale shade of heliotrope with tiny pin dots all over Its surface. Shoe buckles are mounted on strips of velvet the color of the gown with which they are worn. Some are ar ranged on tongues of plaited velvet. Buckles made of pale blue, pink and yellow satin and chiffon rose* are worn on pale colored satin evening slippers. • * • 11 la the fashion to cover the coat collar with something white, and an attractive choice is the negligee of white erepe de rhlne or marquisette, marie tn the Robespierre manner and falling well over the shoulders and fronts of the coat ... The skirt In tiers Is a success of the season. These skirls have taken the fancy of women—so long used to straight or draped effects. Three tiers Is the favorite style. Plaid materials are the erase and one sees tiered skirls with alternate plain and plaid flounces to the waistline, the bright plaid appearing again as a trimming on the jacket. • • • Real tortoise shell Is the Ideal thing for hairpins. The present style of hair dressing demands thal several of these pins should he of the broad fork shape and that the prongs should he rather short. 1 have seen these real tortoise shell pins Inset with sil ver with good effect. I have also seen them rimmed tn finely cut Jet. For blonde hair the pal. shade of tortoise shell gives a dainty appear ance, while red-gold hair looks host when arranged with cut Jet pins -»r those ma > of dark tortoise shell ln- crusted with little Jet facets • • • Velvet ribbons edged with pivot are now very’ much used hv the best Parisian milliners. Some of these ribbons are very wide, while others are comparatively narrow. Individ ual taste Is permitted grant freedom this season. A Panama would look well If trimmed with wine red vel vet ribbons or with a long length of velvet ribbon In u strong shade of Parma velvet. • • • The latest style of hairdressing for the daytime calls for a feu very good pins in tortoise shell or (lull silver. ETerv effort is made to do away with anything like an artificial appeantnee and the woman or girl who . an ar range her hair with a single comb li the admired of all. • * • Newest shoos may have high Louis XV heels, hut they have broad soles and they are mostly laced up ovel the ankles. • • • Collarettes of marabou are short and wide and finished with a bow and ends They come in exquisite chinchilla mixture, a softly shaded gray and a variety of new' Parisian shades. • • • Close-fitting hats, with outstanding trimming, are as much in vogue as eter. The trimming may he either feather, fancy nr loop- «>f ribbon anil jrtKel jd fonu.ruv shops. SIT MODISTES Simplicity Will Be Sought, but Masculine Severity Will Be Carefully Avoided. M08T CHARMING OE GOWNS EOR A SEPTEMBER BRIDE Wonderful Parisian Trosseau Js Being Pre pared for Miss Marion (Hen Coats. ENGLISH VISIT M RS. “REGGIE” BROOKS, snapped on a Newport street as she startled the ultra fashionable residents of that re sort. She is shown wearing the new minaret gown, which is the tightest of the many variations of the clinging skirts seen here tofore. Special Cable to The American. LONDON, Sept. 13.—At a time when the newspapers are so ardently and earnestly discussing the new Paris fashions of the X-ray gown It is pleasing to discover that there will be worn this autumn and winter some smart and chic gown* of an other kind. The Time® has Just published an article which, to one who has not been fully initiated into the mysteries of feminine apparel, seems to be a worth while - discussion of the ever present problem of what may be called chicness. The Time® says: “Quite the most Interesting of the ‘Fantasies sur le Costume Moderne’ recently exhibited in London by Leon Bakst 'ake the form of a coat and skirt. Indeed, that is partly why these ■fantasies' are of such interest to the practical student of dress. “For no matter how variable the modes, the coat and skirt always per sists; It is only In its precise form that there is continual change. Again, though these drawings are frankly fantasies, the artist has expressed in them the salient points of to-day’s fashions. The picturesque aspect of the coat, the importance of the waist coat, the narrow ness and the straight ness of the skirt are well noted. In each the Idea in so simple and yet so wonderfully effective. Simplicity also characterizes the decoration. So tha f many a couturier with a too generous bias to ornament might learn from them some useful lessons In the art of restraint. “The best designers, however, have for the last few years set a standard In this matter. And. judging from the new models displayed for the early autumn, they still maintain this ideal.< Not for the first time do pe see that because the coat Is perfectly cut and the skirt cleverly arranged a smart effect is obtained. In many instance?, however, the waistcoat is extremely decorative, a beautiful brocade being considered *none too luxurious a ma terial for this detail. Skirts Not to Be Wider. "Meanwhile let no optimist hope for a widening of the skirt. For, though it Is possible that Paris may exert her influence in this direction when October is here, she seem® at present to be taking an impish de light in flouting those who criticise the scantiness of the season’s models by giving the new models an even narrower effect than any which have preceded them. This is made possi ble In some instances by the manner in which the front® are crossed, and without seam, for plenty of freedom Is thu® insured with the narrowest possible appearance. “The picturesque note which has recently characterized thq coat-and- skirt Intended for full dress occasions is still maintained. Everything that is stiff and formal Is avoided. Even when a coat Ik girt with the wide belt which might easily endow it with a rigid appearance, care is taken that the belt shall be draped with an ef fect of studied carelessness. The tunics, too, with which many of these dresses are designed, serve to empha size their picturesque character. Masculine TIffect Avoided. “Again, the waistcoat is often ar ranged In the most unexpected man ner. Sometimes It is a mere con tinuation of the revere very cleverly contrived. But, whatever be the idea, it never savors of the severe, such as distinguished the woman’s waistcoat of twenty or thirty years ago. Some times. too, the contrast between the materials of the coat and the skirt achieve picturesque results. And never is the effect more striking than when the skirt is of cloth and the coat of white or cream tulle. The taste for such a combination of ma terials is essentially French, Special Cable to The American. LONDON. Sept. 13.—Prominent among September brides will be Miss Marion Glen (’oats, who is marrying Major Parsons on the tenth. A truly wonderful Parisian trousseau is be ing prepared for her, the chief gem train composed entirely of old French lace. Another charming creation is a gown of fine suede cloth in delicate champagne color. The skirt falls In rich sculptured folds around the tall figure of the wearer and opens slight ly in a few' fan pleats in the front, while the folds are caught together at the sides with a silk cord. Buttoning about the height of the knees, the coat is of old blue char- meuse lined with champagne cloth; there Is a light fall of lace, of the , color of clotted cream, on either side. The sleeves are innocent of a shoulder seam, but are broken at the elbow’ wMth a line of piping, the long cuff being split open to show a doublure of champagne cloth. Over the square sailor collar is a second collar of old blue charmeuse bordered with a strip of skunk fur. The corsage is a parchment lace with a shaped band of blue charmeuse. The bust Is partially hidden by a dentelle; under this is faintly seen an embroidery' of pale pink rosebuds and del blue threaded ribbon. A little round hat of black velvet, which fits well down over the head, framing the face, Is encircled with blue feathers, ending in an upstand ing plume tied near the base in tl e new fashion. Crown Prince of Germany, Wife Six Midinettes of Famous Paris and Three Brothers Wander ing Through Island. Establishment Finish Fashion able Gown in Tube. 1. $500 a Pound Price Moonstones and Opals Of White Human Hair To Deck Fair Ladies Warm Titian G£>w Is Shade Next in Demand, Say Toupee Makers. Special Cable to The American. LONDON, Sept. 13.—Pure white human hair i® quoted at $500 a pound. “Give us hair,” cry the bald. “Give us gold,” , retort those who possess “woman's crowning glory.” Some offer their locks by the foot to the dealers; others demand $25, $50—almost any extravagant price. Many women sell their “combings’’ to be made into toupees and fringes. Next to snow-white hair that with the warm “Titian glow" is rarest. Special Cable to The American. LONDON, Sept. 13.—Four of Em peror William’s sons have invaded England recently. They are in the strictest incognito, which is just h® well, else some ultra-jingoes would be crying, “German spies.” Crown Prince William and his vi- 'acious wife have been traveling for a fortnight as the Cqunt and Countess >f Hohenstein of Potsdam. They stayed for some days at Clifton. The Grown Princess also tried the famous waters at Bath. Prince August William and Prince Eitel Frederick have been seen prom enading the street® of Edinburgh, while the youngest son, Joachim, is also somewhere in Scotland. London Sqciety Will Wear Oriental Th * Kaiser readily gave Ms sons 7 I permission to visit England on the strict understanding, however, that they were to go about as quietly as possible, just like ordinary private cit izens. This was precisely what his sons wanted, more especially the Crown Prince, who. although appearing anti- British when his countrymen expect him to be so. is really devoted to everything English. Young Prince Joachim, who is the liveliest of the four, positively refused to Fiave any attendants, and his errat ic movements have caused some anx iety to- the German Embassy. Charms, Too, of Amethyst, Tor quoise and Onyx. Special Cable to The American. LONDON, Sept. 13.—Moonstones lit early Celtic mountings of gold, silve and platinum will be fashionable thk season. Black opals are second fa vorites. Pendants are taking tie place of necklets. Earrings have loe hanging lobes. Women with a taste for the Oi- ental are adorning themselves wlh charms suspended from a long nek chain. They are carved out amethyst, turquoise, onyx, lais lazuli and other stones, and repe- sent peacocks and elephants nd strange Eastern beasts. THE WORLD OF MUSIC Slant of the New The majority of the new autumn hats are squashed down over one eye. generally the right one, and aro raised high on the other side, show ing a wide expanse of the hair. This gives a very jaunty air to the hat, which is accentuated by the curve of the brim and the trimming. The effect is rakish, that fact must be admitted, but these hats are univer sally becoming, for the large features of the average American require this slanting line across the front, with the height at the side, tending tow ard the buck. Whether the hats flare on one side or not, they set low' on tht* head. The popular sailor shape is well to the fore among the new hats, though shown in many modifications. The patent leather sailor brought out by one of the leading Parts milliners is shown as a morning and rough wear hat at the best shops. • • * Rough-surfaced cottons closely re semble their woolen prototypes, and they are likely to he worn well into autumn. Cotton sponge cloths, cot ton plushes, cotton velvets, it is pre dicted, will be worn throughout the w inter. Miss Mamie Hays, who has been studying voice in New York for some time, w r ill give a song recital at Cable Hall on Tuesday evening, September 16, at 8:30 o’clock. This announcement will be happily received by those who have heard Miss Hays sing. A beautiful and es pecially pleasing program has been arranged. Miss Hays ha® a colora tura soprano voice of range and sweetness. She will return to New York to resume her studies at an early date, and this will be the on’.v' opportunity the music-loving publi" will have of hearing her for some time. This recital is given for the benefit of the Druid Hills Methodist Sunday school, primary department. Ticket.3 may be had at Cable Hal>- and Phil lips & Crew’s. The following musical program will be rendered at the First Baptist Church to-day under the direction of J. P. O’Donnelly, organist: Morning. Prelude. “Our King.’’ Rotoli. “The Lord Is My Strength,” Wooler j —Mr. Solon Drukcnmiller. Postlude. Evening. Prelude. “I Lay My Sins on Jesus,” Schu mann—Mrs. James H. Whitten an 1 choir. “Hark! What Mean Those Holy- Voices?” Verdi. Postlude. • • • Mrs. Lottie Gray Browne is rapidly convalescing. She expects to resume her teaching at the Atlanta Institute of Music and Oratory this week. • * * Walter P. Stanley, the celebrated pianist and exponent of the Leschetiz- ky method, expects to give several in teresting recitals in the early phrt of October. • * • Frederick Hall, of Philadelphia, or ganist of Christ Church and a fa mous choirmaster, will be soloist at the free organ concert this afternoon at the Auditorium. • • • Miss Partholomcw. organirt at St. Mark, will play for the chorus which sings at the Southern Christian Citi zenship conference on the evening of the 19th at. the Cleveland-Manning Piano Company's concert hall. Miss Bartholomew, one of the finest teach ers of the city, has been spendirr hei summer vacation in Indiana, ari re turned la3t week for the wlntei sea son. • • • Under the auspices of Motimer Wilson, the general director f the Conservatory of Music, a conc«t and reception was given at Cabh Hall. The affair was a most ervyable event for the members of themusic circles of the city. • * • An interesting program maied the formal opening of Cox Collte and Conservatory of Music on Tursday morning. A number of notetspeak- er® made short addresses an a mu sical ’program was rendere under the direction of Mrs. Sallie Qc Stan ton. The artists taking prt were Kuhrt Mueller, pianist; Chars Shel don, organist; Mrs. Grace L* Brown Townsend, vocalist; Alexaier von Skibinski, violinist. Bagpipe Craze to Come to America Englishmen Have Taken Up Scot tish Instruments and Visitors From U. S. Follow Example. Special Cable to The American. PARIS, Sept. 13.—On a bet six mid inettes, belonging to a famous Paris dressmaking establishment, cut out and made a fashionable dress during a journey of twenty minutes in a tube train. The dress is of pink chif fon, designed in the latest style, with a draped tunic and lavish ornamen tation. The design was submitted to the midinettes as they boarded a train on the Metropolitan Railway at the Porte d’Orleans station. As soon as the train started the six girls fell to w-ork. Each had a particular task. One of them made a sleeve, another the other sleeve, another the bodice, a fourth the skirt, while the fifth and sixtjp affixed hooks and eyes and at tached trimmings. Half way through the last tunnel the final stitch was put in. and as the train drew up at the terminal sta tion at the Porte de Clignacourt the girls stepped from their seats and held out the finished dress with a shout of triumph. TTIP SASHES APPEAR. Hip sashes appear on most of the new- dresses; they offer an oppor tunity for introducing color or con trast of shades and materials m the dresses. Special Cable to The American. LONDON, Sept. 13.—There is a craze to learn to play the inspiring if not always tuneful bagpipes, and Americans are among the most eager to master Scotland’s national musi cal instrument. The Prince of Wales set the fash ion. He learned the bagpipes at Oxford and now' delights his Scottish friends by skirling “The Flowers of the Forest” and "The Land of the Seal.” "Usually I have about thirty pupil® a year, but at the moment I have as many as sixteen at once,” said O. H. Starck, the pipe-major of the. London Irish Rifles, who makes and teaches the bagpipes. “An American told me the other day I ought to go out there. ‘There’s a fortune for you there Just now’,’ he said. ‘People are crazy to learn the bagpipes and to hear them played.’ ” llll It’s Always Good! UNCLE SAM BREAD Your Grocer Sells It! llll Oraige Blossoms in October When You Perspire Use HID Keeps Your Skin Pure and Sweet 25c All Jacobs’St ores Foreword It i> not the purpose of the mumigeiuciit of the HOTEL A VS LEY to overrate or exaggerate its attractiveness, but rather to keep within the hounds of conservatism. One visit to the lobby, cafes and rathskeller will give one an idea of the lieauty of these rooms that suggest, only refinement and elegance. She dint's each evening *a 1:« cart that “smart” a swagger girl is she." A Chinese Honeymoon. Ydele Ritchie’s song asserts that “smart” girls prefer a la carte dinners or sappers. The Hotel Ansley should lie the mecea of "smart** folk. It’s a la carte service is “so good.’* The management has engaged Mrs. Frank Pearson. Soprano Soloist, after the theater Monday evening. September 15. You Are Invited QUALITY - OUR AIM to attend the showing of Imported Gowns, includ ing PAQUIN, DRECOL, POIRET and BERNARD models. This showing will be held MONDAY, TUESDAY and WEDNESDAY, SEPT. 15, 16 and 17. After the three days open ing the models will be sold at actual cost. Models Sent on Approval J. S. FIELD 34 1-2 Whitehall St. will be in demand Anl so will be Wedding Cards that areartistically executed. It takes, be sides the expert Engraver, the close stident of Dame Fashion. We are bch, and this is why our engraving isdegance itself. It is our business to kiow the size of cards, styles of en- gaving, phraseology, arrangement, irdeed everything which pertains to tis line of work. We tender our cistomers the benefit of our judg ment in matters of this kind, and ach order receives careful personal ttention. We will be glad to answer ny questions by correspondence, ubmit samples of appropriate forms, ar give advice in any matter that may be of service to our patrons. Wedding invitations shipped prompt ly. Samples free. J. P. Stevens Engraving Co. SOCIETY ENGRAVERS Atlanta, Ga.