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Gaby’s Future Fashion for the Tea Gown. “A per
fectly logical development of the X-ray skirt and the
even more enormous head-dress.”
By GABY DESLYS.
Paris. September 12.
I LOOK about at the fashions. I see the X-ray gowns becom
ing even more X, the X-ray shoes that show the little toes,
the slit gowns that reveal les jambes, and I ask w'hy?
I study the trend carefully, and at last I come to a conclu
sion. It is—Why not?
I decide to design some future fashions, the logical outcome
of the fashions that are. I conceive that the fashions that are,
have their inception in the great new awakening and the old
cowardice of women. And I say I will wake them up more,
and I will relieve them of their cowardice.
If a woman desires to wear the slit gown, why not do away
entirely with that untidy subterfuge and part the gown as well.
Voila! At once I invent this charming walking dress you see.
I say, if my sisters desire to wear the diaphanous dresses for
teas, boudoirs and tangoes, why not develop this diaphanous
ness. And, Voila! I invent again. 1 invent much, all future
fashions, which I hope to enhearten my sisters to wear. You
will observe that each is, in a manner, of the current mode —
just a little less of some things, a little more of others. But
at once —the fashions of the future.
Pour montrez les jambes—if they are beautiful from the
knee down, why should they continue to be so carefully con
cealed? Why not show them—pourquoi pas? I, Gaby, ask the
question—Why not? Thus it is settled. For is it not seen every
where in the big cities of Europe and America that the great
dressmakers are agreeable? Have they not provided the slit
at the bottom of the skirt? And is not that slit steadily grow
ing more complaisant, stretching itself more and more in the
direction of the knee, and becoming constantly
bolder in its display of innocent charms which
for so long were wasted on insensible lingerie?
Vraiment, il faut que nous faisons voir les
jambes. All of us who have the presentable kind
find it necessary, to be in the fashion, to let them
be seen. That is the direction of fashion's strong
current. Why should one try to swim against
it? We have them. We are not ashamed of
them—enfin, we know that no human eye can
rest upon them without experiencing sensations
of aesthetic pleasure. Therefore, why should
we be cruel?
It cannot be charged that we thrust them
suddenly upon the vision of an unprepared world
—as the Spartan ladies did at the command of
Lycurgus. No. We led up to the grand moment
of unselfishness by imperceptible degrees. First
v.e discarded the crinoline —which left the fact
of their existence more than doubtful. By nar-
rowing the skirt we permitted them to become suspected—thus avoiding the shock of absolute
discovery. For more than a generation we waited for the suspicion to become familiar. Thus it
was that when I, Gaby, and Mlle. Dorgere, and the lamented Lantelme, and others of our cour
ageous and humane circle, demonstrated with the hobble and the harem skirts, with the
result that very shortly all the feminine world followed our example, quite easily and with
out disaster, the suspicion became a certainty. Yes, without question, women, no less than
men, had legs.
If you reflect you will perceive how true it is that for ten years at the least montrez les
jambes has been autocratic fashion’s most rigorously enforced command. As the outermost
draperies embraced more and more closely, from beneath the clinging gown underskirts
and petticoats and other impediments to a revelation of nature's outlines disappeared. Only
the folds of the narrowing outer skirt remained to render vague the graceful curves' of
the silk-clad leg.
The grand moment of complete revelation was approaching—but not too fast —mais
non! It is not only the drama that rejoices in its possession of the element of revelation,
of suspense. The dressmaker’s art shares that inestimable advantage There was sus
pense and grace—in the molding of corsets, as faithfully as a coat of thin plaster, to the
curves of the hips. Over this the thin fabric of the gown clung without a wrinkle
Now you will understand the purpose of those bunchy overskirt effects and short, wide
coats reaching hardly below the hips and worn with the closest clinging gowns—pour glor
Jfier les jambes, that was the secret; at the expense of some grace about the waist, to add
twiYNori*
says Gaby.
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Gaby’s New Bathing Suit.
“The tendency in bathing
suits is certainly more and
more toward display, and
less toward use,” she says.
“Why not work this out to
its logical limit?”
Very Odd Satirical Su£
gestions for “ Future
Fashions” Which Will
“ Satisfy the Gradually
Prepared-for Display
of Graces” Woman
Hasn’t “the Courage
to to Its
Logical Conclusion.”
Baggs.
3 *.
“And if you like fringe,
why not wear lots of it?”
Copyright. 1913, by the Star
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emphasis to —in fact, to glorify what the
narrow, clinging gown so charmingly sug
gested, namely, the legs.
In the smart set of Paris, or London,
or New York, where will you note a house
gown, a tea gown, any evening gown, that
is a la mode, which leaves remaining any
possibility of shock?
■i So let us proceed to the supreme moment
• without further finesse. Suggestion has. as
you Americans say, gone the limit; the
estimable dramatic element of suspense has
been squeezed to the last drop. If they
are beautiful, montrez les jambes—show
the legs. Why not?
Why should we be so coy with that little
slit at the hem of the skirt? Courage, mes
amis, le diable est mort!
Therefore, I, Gaby, aided by the truthful
camera, appear before you here in no less
than five distinct variations of that supreme
moment which we have been so gradually
and humanely approaching. Voila! Feel
shocked I defy you'
In the bare-armed effect, with filmy harem
trousers widely cut out in front nearly to
the knees, the skirt, you will observe, is
retained, but at the smallest possible ex
pense to the main object in view. Note
how, although it really ends at the hips in
a rigid hoop, which accentuates the taper
ing curves downward to the ankles, there
are festoons of braid and bits of fringe
depending two or three inches apart, which
overcome somewhat the general effect of
scantiness.
Company. Great Britain Rights Reserved
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Perhaps I am not
quite courageous in
this example. But it
may be understood
that the slit in each
trouser leg is to be
made longer and
broader as its useful
ness fades. There are
really only two ob
jects gained by these
revelations allure
ment and usefulness.
The slit trouser, of
course, has not the
latter excuse, for trou
sers are easy to walk
in -already without
being slit.
The other examples
approach the logical
conclusion both In
the way of grace and
use.
Upon the street
freedom of movement
for les jambes be-
comes more and more
necessary, while there
are more and more
automobiles to be es
caped at crossings.
“ 'Cre nom des pieds! ”
How can one jump at
the screech of the
honk" when the legs are bandaged by unnec
essary
Come, are we not permitted to save our
lives? Because there is an ancient tradition
that we have no legs, must we permit them
to be mangled by rubber tires, and, maybe,
removed in sorrowful truth by a doctor in the
hospital.
Is it not true that the chauffeurs also are
human? Have not they also the aesthetic
sense? When they discover the allurement
of les jambes exposees, will they not be in
clined to break their own necks rather than
“Metronome” Cure for Neurasthenia By Num p,tal
THE brain and body of the neurasthenic
are always working at “express
train" rate. You may put your
patient to bed, keep the relatives away, rob
life of every petty worry, feed, guard, doc
tor, drug with all the vivifying tonics ever
brewed, but you will never do an of
good until you make that marvellous com
plicated bit of psychic machinery—the mind
—work with rythm; until you make your
patient realize he or she must slacken the
thoughts as he or she is slackening the
muscles.
The easiest illustration of this lack of
rhythm, which 1 have noticed in each case
of neurasthenia I have nursed, is to put a
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to risk the disfigurement of such charms?
So I have been quite candid in my sugges
tions. At present possibly you may accept
them with diffidence. But with familiarity
their logic will satisfy you, until
Ah, oul —of a certainty there must be prog
ress in allurement. Eh bien — when what I
show you here has ceased to satisfy all your
desire for that which is beautiful in nature,
silken-clad, it is not beyond the possibilities
that I, Gaby, defender of both allurement and
utility, may once more rise to the oc
casion!
perfectly working clock on an unlevel shelf.
The pendulum will swing for a time, but
the regular “tick-tock" will be replaced by
a sound like "tick-a-tock-tick.’’ The clock
may continue working for a time, but as an
unreliable timekeeper, and it will soon stop
The neurasthenic suffers in the same way
The systematic “tick-tock" of the mind’s
machinery is changed to “tlck-a-tock-tick."
Learn how to restore the methodical move
ment and you have solved the problem.
I would set a metronome by the bedside of
the neurasthenic. I would pull up the
weight to the tiptop of the baton, and I
would try to teach my patient to regulate
his thought by that steady slow monoto-.
nous “tick-tock.”
5
Gaby’s Conception
of the Logical
Slit Skirt “It
has all the al
lurement of the
present m sde,”
she says, “and if
the p r a c t i ca’
part of the fash
ion is to make
locomotion eas
ier why not make
it perfectly
easy?”