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Ihe >e" ••Pierrette” Effect in Broad Fur Bands. The New Close Clinging Coats The Add No Breadth to tl Plump—Th New Fur Scarves HHI I and Purple Wtimj Moleskins their lines and ||Kjggteij& how delightfully they lend them* ll solves to the fiu- f •’Hky up's within there Met The strikingly beautiful ermine and broadtail gar- Jr ment is suitable for reception or sf'. 'vening wear. The 000^ upper section is made of the fas cinating tailless ermine. The muff is also of this fur. The lower part of the coat is, in a way, a deep shaped flounce attached to the upper sec tion. The whole affair is curiously draped from the shoulders. Tho collar is a strip of the fur finished with a heavy tassel. This collar is just twisted once about the neck, in much the same manner that one would twist a hunting stock. This wrap looks Its best when worn by a tall, slender woman. Mrs. Edward B. McLean, of Washington, for whom I designed this superb coat, wears it most gracefully. In the picture shown here the hat Is a stnall boyish affair of the black broadtail Mrs. McLean, however, usually tops it with a smart black velvet, bat decorated with aigrettes. Equally chic, but on different lines, is the dyed moleskin wrap worn over a dull purple crepe de chine flounced with the moleskin. As I have said in earlier letters, the dyed furs in light colors are effec tive when used as trimming, but only dark colors should he used Iu the making of coats. Exquisite “Lucile” Costume of Moleskin Dyed Rich Purple. L ady duff-gor DON, the famous "Lucile” of Lon- j Jon, and foremost cre ator of fashions in the 'Kite world, Writes each week flH the fashion article for this newspaper, presenting all that is newest and best in styles for well-dressed women. Lady Duff-Gordon's new Paris establishment brings her into close touch with that centre of fashion. Lady Duff-Gordon's American establishment is at Nos. 37 and 39 West Fifty-seventh street. New York Moleskin takes a very rich blue or purple. That shown here is purple. The fur collar and cuffs, the muff and the band outlining the coat are of blue fox. The hat is moleskin Tn making, or. rather, in creating this quaint coat of a slender debutante. I used a deep shade of blue duvetyn. The .sleeves fastened closly about the wrists, are the very chic Babst sleeves, and. like the collar, the cuffs and muff are of rich brown ing bit of color is given the fur hat by the orange apples just in the front. It seems to me half way down her back. However, there •re some who literally fold t h e m s e 1 ves iu in their boas or scarves, and I am sending you a picture of a matched skunk scarf which ex plains this very new and modish fashion. The stole, is broad and flat; it is made entire ly of skunk fur matched in a curious way and folded across the wearer’s body in the front; the two ends are fas tened together well below the waist in the back. It is all finished with dark brown velvet frills. The muff matches the wrap, but shows no velvet frills. And it’s time to write of other things, of hats, for instance, and veils, and I have good news from Paris about both these fascinating Xew'est Fur Costume of Matched Skunk Scarves and Dark Brown Velvet. By Lady Duff Gordon (“Lucile”) W ' HAT woman can resist the lure of the fur coat! And never were fur-trimmed ouis 1 and fur wraps so luxurious as ,;kh are to-day. Tho new coats, made of the lovely, ever-so-supple skins, are draped in all manner of '.ays. There is no longer any rea- .'Oii for the stout woman to dread wearing a coat even of sable or mink, for, under the new treatment of the pelts, the coats are made to cling closely to the figure, and no longer do they add great breadth to the wearer. Time was when the wearer of a fur coat looked opulent and lux urious, but stout. Look at the two fur coats I am sending you this week and you can readily see how graceful the maddening devices of the taco veil. The butterfly is very lightly worked in black chenille on either black or faintly pink net and, ‘ of course, its most correct, or, at any rate, most captivating, position will be close by one corner of a red, curved mouth—how many there will then be to envy that happily placed butterfly! The “beauty spot” veil—with its single black velvet patch—is also in high favor just now on account of its similar and distinctly provocative possibilities, and 1 foresee for it a much more continued and universal vogue than for that other novelty, the “Harem” veil, which, as its name suggests, takes the yashmak for its model. For just over the eyes it is of the clearest and finest net, th© meshes there being rounded, while here on its broad bordering ofi square-meshed net many little black velvet spots are showered. So that the woman with fine eyes as her only attraction will for once fear no rivalry from the most perfectly featured^ 1 beauty whose orbs are somewhat less bright and magnetic. And now as regards other peo ple’s doings and dresses, in connec tion with the latest black and white craze. I notice any number of new models are being made i nthe soft est possible black moire, the skirts being draped in many different ways but with always the same resulting effect of silhouetting the figure with even more than the usual closeness. One rather charming and quite nov el scheme is the arranging of the knee-deep tunic in a series of deep points or scallops. The underskirt being, as a matter of fact, pleated, though you only discover that it is not quite plain. 'Then you look into it closely or when the wearer walks, as the folds are held down so closely and flatly. As regards a finish for the corsage, a double and upstanding frill of white tulle is most frequently and fascinatingly in evidence and is often carried right down to the waistline, narrowing as it goes. And in between there .will he crossed- over folds of the soft white fabric, against which there may well stand out in bold and beautiful relief a pink malmaison carnation, or a white gardenia guarded by its glos sy green leaves. This particular and pretty flower—a great favorite of mine always—being the chosen and chic trimming for some of the latest Paris creations in the way of hats. One which I saw and admired the other day was of the now most fav ored medium size, the brim taking a hold upward sweep at the left side and coming well down over the other ear and eye. It was in quite a new and very smootli and shiny make of black straw', and the gar denias were set midway about the fairly high crown, full-blown blos soms, buds and leaves being verv artistically grouped together on an encircling fold of black moire rib- articles of feminine apparel. At last the black velvet hat has a rival | —a formidable and fascinating riva 1— I which is going to re lieve the world c? women from wliat I was rapidly becom ing a mania of mo- ■ notony. f. The appearance — | or. rather, the re- 1/ \ appearance—of black 'tjj | panne as a millinerial material is really very welcome, even on the score of va riety. But it further has lightness of effect, and actual weight also, to recommend it, and somehow, too, its aoftly shining surface gives a special smartness not only to the hat, but also to the whole toilette, and keeps this smartness unimpaired, even after a long morning’s shopping, or walking, or driving, which would re duce the black velvet hat to a dis figuring monument of dust! That is indeed—and of course— the one disadvantage of the black velvet hat—it is a veritable magnet for every speck of dust and it also has a fatal facility for getting shiny and shabby at the edges. You see we can dare to realize and admit its ults now that W'e have the chance of choosing some thing else—and sometimes better, too! Very unfair, perhaps—but also very human! And really the new black panne hats are irresistibly attractive. They are always most moderate in size and their little brims should take a slight boat-shaped curve upward at the right side. The turn-up on the left side is no longer the essence of smartness. And they are trimmed in any number of different ways, though the general effect arrived at is of extreme simplicity. For instance, just one butterfly, with gold-dusted wings, will have alighted by some happy accident on one side of the crown of such a hat, whose possessor will of a surety be so well pleased with the resulting piquancy—and admiration—of her headgear that she will he not one whit envious of her possibly more fortunate —- and certainly more moneyed—rival whose panne hat is Lucile” Coal of Ermine and Broadtail. Little Hat of Black Broadtail. as I travel from London to Paris and Paris to Switz erland that while everyone wears furs no two people wear them in the same fashion. And no one wears them in the former orthodox man ner. Verily, there are times when milady looks as though she would lose her lovely scarves, so delieatelj are they placed over one shoulder or ecrets of Beau, The Most Famous Living Beauty How to Make the Mouth Beautiful. W HILE the mouth is oue of the most beautiful and tell tale features, it is also oue of the most neglected. It has more bad habits than the eyes, is more sensitive than the complexion, more susceptible to training than the nose, of far less sturdy fibre than the hair. The Ups require educating, and 1 shall tell you to-day how to educate them. It is well at the beginning to erect the danger signals. Don’t fall into the bad habit of pressing the lips firmly together. Persons of especially determined character arp likely to press the lips firmly to gether to express their determi nation. Others assume that virtue il’ they have it not and imitate their dnn-willed friends and enemies in tliis respect. But from the standpoint of beauty it is always a mistake to firmly close the lips. They should be as lightly closed as possible. As gently as one rose petal meets another the upper lip should lie upon the lower. "Make this one of your beauty resolutions:" ’I will never tightly close my lips,’ an Italian author wrote in the Mid dle Ages. Ah, yes. They were in terested in the theme of how to be come beautiful and how to remain so even then. “The lips should seldom be actually closed. To be lovely the mouth should habitually disclose five teeth,” advised the great Italian. There is. of course, a sani tary side of the subject, and on that side of beauty we show ourselves wiser than the ancients and the beauty culturists of the Middle Ages. Disease germs enter the body, not through the nose, which is protected by a hairy barricade that snares in truders, but by the mouth, which has