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* D IT KARST’S RTTNPAY AMERICAN. ATLANTA. OA.. SUNDAY, DECEMBER 21. 1013. r w <srl By MME. HAUTE MONDE. W EARING tli? hat sllkhtly to on? tibbon outlining thi- n?rk amt. per- i„..'omlr.e to «ome h »i>*. ‘"liring the sleeve. A few 1» > * r . . . rhinestone or pearl buttons serve to faces, thone avIUi a « 1 . close and to trim them at the same fun and coquetry In their expression tlm- famous Duchess ot ttie width to the present fashion ot ft-aided that has an natural all Gainsborough’* Devonshire is an install of the brim adding PidU al H whole. But the pa^Mh^nam'w b'rlm"points , to, the zenith, while Its a-ntt poaes portion rests upon the ehouldei, is • 1[ grotesque rather than P especially when the wearer sir of so'emn gloom as her expression—many of us ha\e clever woman once wiote. - cry in a rose-colored hat The greater includes the I???.,, _ h glum In a one-sided hat. 1 h ’ u f, "a a fashion of the hour tn 1 " Mr 1 1 '™ ■o. no one need u<> It. The m i ‘ aged woman usually wears a look of anxious severity that sometimes amounts to scowling. It means short sight or a fear of looking loo am .tie. that Is all; but to untie this fearsom. expression w ith a hat «tan< - ing on Its own brim. Is to make gartorial mistake of the first order, .Some of the hats bordered round the up-turned brim with a rurhed ribbon are very pretty, satire baa attacked the silly plume without banishing it from the smart hat I he comic papers show It thrusting 1 t»el Into the human eye, tickling intolera bly the human cheek and ear, and advertising the foolishness of tne Wearers lr. many unmistakable ways • • • Ths very soft brocades and moires now used for dresses fall in graceful folds about the figure, and such ma terials as eharmeuse, silk voile and foulard are In gneat favor. These are eyed to exquisite shades of amethyst, rose, green, blue, citron anti mauve. The most effective gowns are made In one though the three-piece dress Is ■till In favor. A tall girl In rose- colored brocade looked well of a re cent opera niglfi. Usually the hack of the gown has a wide, fiat pleat that folds underneath at either side. 1S> the tailor's art these are pressed ab solutely fiat so that there Is no ap pears™ of unnecessary fullness, ttnd yet, when the wearer walks, there is sufficient width ror freedom of mo tion This seems to solve the prob lem as to the dividing line between unnecessary width and the hideously unbecoming tightness that disfigures so many otherwise well-dressed wom en at tile present moment, • • • The unlimited display of stocking in the tango has given rise to the "jeweled” garter, worn immediately below the knee, and recalling Tom lli od s "Miss Kllmansegg and Her Precious Deg," to display which ne cessitated a very particular type of skirl, shorter on one side than even Diana's. Those who have seen the tango danced will realize what abun dant opportunity it affords for the display of stockings, even more at the lack than In from. This should cause a good boom for fine silk stock ing makers. The transparent ones are becoming more and more reveal ing with every week. Tango stock ings are black or otherwise dark in tint unless worn with white or light gowns, when they accord with the tone of these or are in gold color. * • * Coiffures are not worn so close ly coiled round the head as they were a few weeks ago. Sometimes one gee* a conical coiffure, rising very high, but kept close and narrow be hind the ears, which are always cov ered. Another style has the hair lift ed in a high billow on the top of the head, supported by a "giraffe” comb. Smaller combs retain the hair behind the ears, leaving enough to cover the latter. The forehead fringe is still seen and the chignon retains its vogue, partly owing to its usefulness In showing the diamond combs so much in fashion. • • • Kid and leather shoes are despised by the fashionable, though they are glad enough to fall back upon them In muddy weather and for wearing at race meetings. On other occasions the shoes are made of very expen sive materials, often richly embroid ered. Even silk brocade is ornamen ted with stitchery for this purpose, and sometimes jeweled as well. The fashionable heel is still extremely high ami it, too,'is occasionally em broidered and Jeweled, though the favorite Is striped black and white, or gray and white, or black and red. As to stockings, they are so much In evidence at present owing to the re markable styles of dress that, us a natural consequence, they are of the most luxurious character. Striped or tartan silk and wool mixed are worn In the morning, but in the afternoon open-work lace, silk or thread are the only wear. • * • Feminine to a degree are the sim ple blouses of net and chiffon that are used on so many of the afternoon anti evening frocks. Very often their sole adornment consists of a few tucks or plaits and a narrow band of Now tls.it I he art of dressing has become a vital thing, and the fashion for vivid colors so dominant, wom en see what can be done by a Judi cious adjustment of brilliant tones. No longer need artists deplore the lack of coloring in women’s dress, for the feminine sex have advanced too fr.r along the line of color educa tion to return now to drab tones. This fset is clearly demonstrated In the evening wraps. one beauty Is a proof that a woman of limited Income ran dress effective ly at reasonable outlay. This wrap la characterized by long graceful lines and drapery, and is developed In chiffon velours. It Is a model that may be had In various pretty shades, this particular example being of rich petunia hue, and adorned with ring ed buttons of the fabric. The low- cut kimono sleeve Is set into a seam, and at the extreme point of the long collar th > wrap fastens with a twist ed motif made of the material. The linings of these evening wraps are in many instances as beautiful as the garments themselves, a fact which adds considerably to their In terest. For instance, a model of rose du Barrl corded crepe i» turned back at the hem, with the lining of Pais ley-patterned black and white chif fon. The fullness in the folds that gives the wrap its drapery in front 1m caught at the back with a motif of Greek design curried out In pipings of tlu* fabric. Collar and cuffs of skunk add still another note of rich ness to the wrap. In a coat of .Jap anese blue plush the tightened effect at the hern of the garment is effected at the hack hv a broad band of hand some silk embroidery on gold plush. The consummation of this gorgeous color scheme lies in an entire skin of red fox worn carelessly across the arms and fastened on the left shoul der. Sashes to the Rescue Very beautiful, indeed, are the wide sashes of gorgeous colored ribbon or thick-ribbed silk, with the colors woven In broad stripes, that have jus: made their appearance. These are arranged to wind once round the waist, cross at the back and fasten in front, loosely knotted at one side. The ends are finished with black braid sconces and huge silk or ohe- nlllo tassels in the same shadings as the ribbon. One lovely one was of blue, cerise and black striped silk finished with long, heavy tassels In the like ton- Ings, combined with a touch of black and orange. Some again have one tassel In all | black, the other many colored, in every case the end of the silk being [drawn Into black braid or velvet I miters. These sashes make an invaluable 1 addition to the wardrobe, as they ran j he hastily adjusted over a black satin or velvet frock with excellent result, Just giving a final note of smartness that Immediately stamps the attire as something out of the ordinary. * • • Millinery Hies Every established rule has its ex ception. No sooner did the black hat become general than many women at once made a point of wearing colored millinery. . Th la oppoalt U (If we may be allowed to use the term) started at Etretat. where one of the society leaders appeared at the Casino in a violet velvet hat. This becoming model was copied from the First Empire at a period when it bore a resemblance to a jockey’s cap. The up-to-date Paris milliner has, however, broadened tne crown and the brim. The latter she has made varj broad at the back lend turned up in order to show the circu lar pleating In violet tulle A band and an embroidered buckle In similar velvet surround the waist and the same material forms the shoes over violet silk stockings. * • • Pearls are now the most fashion able jewels, and women buyers take care to secure a shade to match their complexion. "Dark or yellow pearls," says a pearl expert "become dark women, while light pearls are worn to better advantage by women of fair complex ion. During recent years the demand for pearls has Increased* because the ostent&tiougnees of diamonds and rubies often offends the taste. A woman can easily wear $500,000 worth of pearls in excellent taste, but diamonds worth $100,000 would be very obtrusive." BLACK(HARMEU8E COSTUME LAST WORD IN TANGO GOWNS liss Winifred March CHAPPED SKINS NEED | RH. JOHN MARSHALL SLA-[ TON, wife of our Governor, who is ning matrons her exquisite gowns. Her one of the most stun* of society, is noted for taste In selecting her •lothes are always no- NEW SILHOUETTE CONQUERS PARIS WORLD Of fASHION Filmy Black Silk Now Affected in the Afternoon With Thinnest of Lingerie. ticeable for their perfect fit and in dividual charm, no matter what the occasion may be. I saw her the other evening with Mrs. Morris Brandon, when she was beautifully gowned In a Larisse model of gold and blue bro cade chiffon, the drapery of the skirt held in place with two little animals called fitch, the newest thing in fur. With this creation she wore some superb diamonds in the way of a necklace, the central stone of which represented a small fortune in itself. Mrs. Brandon was so quaint in her little (for you know how dainty a creature she Is, and that word fits her garments perfectly) cream and violet charmeuse, the violet being intro duced in the drapery s»o that it reached her toes. Her slippers were of the violet satin, too. I hear that violet is the last word in color now and royal purple is also very popular. Speaking of royal purple, did you see that purple gown at a recent function that one of the visiting women wore? She must have thought she would show the people here some sights—and vhe did! More than they are accustomed to seeing. However, her slippers were exquisite with their heels of rhinestones embedded in the purple satin, and everything was as It should be. What more could we ask? • * * I HARDLY know r whether I am sane or not from this run of Christmas shopping. I set my mind to get this for Sally, and when I come to the counter where such articles are sold, the pretty girl behind says to me! "We are out of that" and "We wljl have a fresh supply to-morrow. Come back and I will love to sell you then." That is the hard part of it. You have to go back, not once, but time and again, and you wear your self out getting nothing. 1 hear a lot of people saying that they are sim plifying their Christmas gifts, but somehow’ when the great day comes I always feel bad when I find that someone has sent me something much nicer than I planned for her. That’s the most miserable feeling in the world. I enjoy making personal thing? for the girls, blit how to please the men! They grumble about everything. 1 heard one man the other day on the subject of Christmas shopping. He said he has ceased going home to luncheon, as he is sure to find his wife and daughters out, and when at night fall they return from town so tired they can hardly drag their feet Into the dining room, the only topic of conversation Is what they are buying, Interspersed with hints to find out I what he wants for Christmas, when 1 if they really knew they would be i surprised, for it Is nothing more than j a stocking hanging from the mantel- j piece in the living room, filled with t "goodies,” just as when he was a kid. I * * * S OME stories are hard to tell with out giving away the heroine al together, and then I have an enemy for life. Heroines don’t like to | be found out. This girl is one of the best known of the debutante set It seems she was left to do the pack ing for the family before leaving for a trip herself. The idea occurred to her that she could make Christmas mon ey by having a rummage sale and in viting the servants In the neighbor hood to buy. This she did. She sold for $7 her father’s heavy overcoat that he probably will need sometime this winter. Yet I do believe if he hbd stayed right here in Atlanta he could easily have done "without it, as cold weather seems to be still far from making friends with Atlanta this year. At any rate, she made over $100 on the sale, and she hasn’t bro ken the news to father yet. She is an enterprising young woman, though, and he ought to value such a business capacity as she displayed. btisv constantly tryihg to always have j a fresh pair of white ones ready for ‘ each party. Now the young lady is very much put out. One evening she went to the theater with her best beau, wearing hef black gloves They were seated near the back of the box when sud denly she felt him catch hold of her hand. She tried to pull away, but he held It too tightly. After pleading with him softly, she told him that she was afraid that someone would see. He re plied, nroraptly: "No, they won’t, and you know that. Isn’t that why you are wearing black gloves—so that I can hold your hand without It being visible on my coat? It’s awfully sweet of you, Gertie." Now she has gone back to white coverings for her hands, cost w hat they may. * * * D ID you ever hear of a trousseau party? All of us have been In vited at one time or another to visit a bride’s home for the pleasure of seeing displayed rfround the pretty boudoir the daintiest lingerie and the gow’ns designed for the "dearest little girl In the world.” However, this trousseau party was different from the sordid run of things. The hostess was a handsome widow, who had de cided to try her luck again in the matrimonial line. She invited by en graved invitations at least 50 friends who came at the appointed time. The guests were ushered into the room where the costliest garments were on exhibition. Then the bride-elect pro ceeded to demonstrate and one gown after another she donned for the in spection of those present. I am told that each bit of trimming used on the Huffy things was the work of the bride herself, a fact which seems re markable when there was such an elaborate lay-out. * * * *T*HERE*S a certain Atlanta girl I who cast her bread on her wa ters and who was duly reward - 1 ed. Certainly there is a reward. Yoj know the girl, a very young girl with pretty blonde hair. You know her well, and how ready she is to do good, and to help other people along. Not long ago the opportunity came to her to do something for a girl she had 1 never Been or heard of. The latter lived in a small Geo.\;ia town. She read the papers and knew tjjat our charitable friend moved al ways in society, going to dances anr. dinners and parties. So she wrote to Atlanta and to our friend. She was going to take part in a school enter tainment and wanted a suitable frock, and wouldn’t the Society Girl nlease let her have something to use for tbs occasion. Very sweetly our friend sent a dainty dancing frock that she had worn once or twice. Then came a re ply in the form of a picture of the young actress. She was so pretty and so appealing that the Atlanta gi:*i was glad. But that wasn’t all. Only the other day there came from the other girl an enormous box of the biggest, meat- left paper-shell pecans you ever saw’. "Merry Christmas!" was on the box. And our friend was very glad, in deed. CUTICURA SOAP Cuticura Soap and Cuti- cura Ointment keep the skin clear, soft and beau tiful under all conditions of outdoor exposure in cidental to winter sports. Cuticura Soap and Ointment sold throughout tha world. Liberal sample of each mailed free, with 32-p. book. Address •'Cuticura.” Dept. 24Ci, Boston. mrMen who Hhave and shampoo with Cuticura Soap will find it beet tor skin and scalp. Special Cable to The American. BARIS, Dec 20 -Christmas, whicn is almost upon us, sees the complete victory of the new silhouette, which has conquered slowly but surely, crushing all life out of our poor little revolt. We neither grumble, smile By LA RACONTEUSE. Special Cable to The American. LONDON, Dec. 20. — Nearly every smart dressmaker in London is busy creating tango gowns, and some of the prettiest are being made for sev eral young actresses for private wear. One which has just been made for Miss Mabel Russell is charming as well as original. It is fashioned of black charmeuse. split up a little in the front, and has an immensely long train which springs from the back and side and tapers to the narrowest point poUMble. This long tiuin is caught up to the hand with a little loop and has a XMAS RATES over N., C. & St. L. Ry. and W. & A. R. R. Apply any Agent. wonderfully graceful effect with the swing and dip of the figure when the wearer is dancing. It is lined with the softest of black picot edged crepe de chine, which is a very important point, as naturally the doublur is much in e\ Idencc. Over this is a fascinating crisp lit tle crinoline tunic of gold net, worked in a handsome design of gold foil, edged with gold lace. The little tunic stands well out on either side, parting in the center, while over it is drawn a drapery of black charmeuse. This is caught up under the belt and turned over In a kind of Neapolitan point, which Is drawn into a sheath if : bright drake**.neck blue plaited skirt, j bordered with gold. From this falls a huge blue silk tassel worked in gold. The belt Is a lovely combination of the palest crocus yellow and shaded drake’s-neck blue crepe, the colors melting into one another, while above j it rises a kimono .-f pale gold tulle i over blonde lace sleeves. nor make sarcastic comments any longer, but are once more the meek, willing slaves of the whims of la mode. Without a murmur we are wearing sloping shoulders, square waists, bal loon hips and everything else which we ridiculed and shook our heads at six months ago. The new line has conquered. It no lohger rules only In the clinging ma terials* of evening dresses, but every where. in the duvetyn of the prom enade dress, as In the velvet and molree of the tango gown. The new silhouette is everybody’s. You may even buy it ready made in the big department stores and at i once submit to the law of transmu tation. That is to say, that you may buy a gown cut in such a way that I the moment you put it on you become j Just as sloping at top. as square in the waist and as narrow at the bot tom as the new line demands, and, what is more, if you look at yourself | In the mirror you smile contentedly \md feel proud and happy to be up J to date and smart and you pretend not to hear the thin little voice that whispers into your ear: "My dear girl, don’t you see what a monkey you are?" We are all In black, filmy, breezy black silk In the afternoon now in or- i der not to get overheated in the hot rooms where we drlnx tt*a or dance. In private houses or one of the nu merals restaurants made into tango ballrooms. The tango bacillus runs riot In our veins and the bridge tables are de- j serted. for it is not only the young j people who are dancing. Oh, no! j The modern grandmother is not old or backward: she dances tango pas- j slonately, happy at this new form of eXercijae. which is far more pit tsant than the tedious gymnastics, and the I fashionable doctor who tells his older [ patients that tango Is an ideal pre- I server of youth, Is a wise man who knows what is expected of him. In the afternoon, then, tout le monrie is dressed for tango. Rlack predominates, but you may wear ra ven blue, brown or elephant gray The skirt - short and Mas ed to th*- *1 knee, because without this any move ment would be impossible. The waist is made from mallne or lace, through which you s,e» the silk ribbons of the lingerie, and it is trimmed with lace ruches or narow fur edgings and in the center of your belt, which is very low, you wear an enormous velvet flower In the strongest shade of red, green or yellow. These fairy flowers are le dernier cri of fashion and the a mincing speed they shoot up in the hothouses of la mode. To finish ouV tango costume, we put on very thin silk stockings, in the color of the gown and exceedingly high-heeled shoes, tied with ribbons around the ankle. Our sleeves are short and we wear gloves to the el bow. in dull light colors, and little bags of velvet with monograms in diamonds. P' INK roses! Have you ever won dered why I so constantly speak of them? One person has decid ed that it must be rny favorite flower, and mighty glad I was when up came the loveliest box of them one day- last week. But it wasn’t my birth day, and Christmas hadn’t come yet, and for several (lays I was kept in mystery as to why she should have sent them. Finally I learned that, even though she was a happy mar ried woman, she had been up to some mischief, and was afraid that I would hear of it and tell you. A young gir! friend told her she was going to tell me about the fun and she replied, “I don’t care if you do. I have already- bribed her." So that is the why of the roses. * * * * % I ANY of the girls in town read what Madame Haute Monde has * 1 to say about sty’les every Sun day. and as a result one girl was brave enough to adopt the fashion of wearing black gloves. Of course, she was very willing, as it keeps a girl OUR NEW PAINLESS METHODS will make it easy for the children to take care of their teeth. for least Examination andrnrr Best service advice ItlLL money. All our operators are experts, and all our work is guaranteed. Lady attendant. Open daily 8 a. m. to 8 p. m. Sundays 10 a. m. to 3 p. m. The Original Painless Dentists 73\ WHITEHALL Over A. & P. Tea Store Main 2599 Was Ever Before Sold at This Price These Four Quarts Hagin’s Sweet Mash Corn $2.65 Express Prepaid These Four Quarts Hagin’s Diamond Rye $3.©0i Express Prepaid There is Quality in Diamond Rye That Others Cannot Dupli cate. Hagin quality has been the standard of excellencs since the Hagin brands were established. This popularity lasts, because they never disappoint. Based upon - a sound knowledge of the art of distilling, our whiskies combine all the excellence to which the most discriminating are entitled. This Quart of Cele brated Kentucky Bourbon Absolutely ~FREE With Every Eight- Quart Order This bottle of fine Kentucky Bourbon neves sold for less than $1 per bottle. It's offered to YOU ab solutely FREE becauae we want you to become acquainted with the Hagin Brands. This kind of an offer comee once In a lifetime. Don’t overlook It— •end order to-day. 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