Below is the OCR text representation for this newspapers page.

4 10 The New Fashion’s Latest Crazes— 7 he Leopard-Skin Tunic, f/*e Scarf Train, the Cutaway Coat of Flowered Velvet and the Waist less Gown L ADY DUFF-GORDON, the famous “Lucile” of London, and foremost creator of fashions in the world, writes each week the fashion article for this newspaper, presenting all that is newest and best in styles for well-dressed women. I -ady Duff-Gordon's new Paris establishment brings her into close touch with that centre of fashion. Lady Duff-Gordon’s American establishment is at Nos. 37 and 39 West Fifty-seventh street, New York. Afternoon Costume of Purple „ .Charmeuse and Flowered Velvet, Showing the New Half Coat. By Lady DUFF GORDON (‘“Lucile”) I AM constrained to sing a song of ribbons this week, for never were these fabrics more sumptuous, and, needless to say, more expensive than this season. Verily has the old- time ribbon been glorified, thus keep ing pace with every other thing w hich goes to make milady of the wardrobe more fascinating. But before continuing my song of ribbons I must describe some very novel and /interesting costumes which I recently saw and some which I designed for two of my American clients. For one of my designs I chose a matronly fabric, a delicious taupe brocaded chiffon. .The entire lower part of the gow n, from the high gir dle, is merely a clinging drapery of this supple fabric. With the broad ening effect from the knees to the •waist line, the still popular peg top effect Is produced. An unusual touch of color is given by the velvet band of French blue velvet, outlining the upper edge of the drapery. This color is also intro duced in the girdle and on the chiffon bodice, which is, as you can see in the picture, develop#*! in two shades of chiffon and in the simplest manner possible. The headdress worn with this cos tume is novel and becoming. The narrow gold cord round the head joins in front under a jeweled pend ant. The high feather is spring set in a jeweled border. In my second design I depended on graceful draperies and delicately colored fabrics rather than on in tricacy of detail and design. The skirt is one of the hemless affairs which are so ingenue and dainty. The wonderful scarf drapery hanging from the bodice and caught in front under the jeweled ornament, is mar velously becoming to the slender young bride for whom it was created. The costume is developed in shades of shell pink chiffon. I am delighted to be able to send jfou a photograph of this startling new leopard gown. The under robe is of a tawny orange char- meuse, the train cut square. The overskirt is leopard skin, combined with fragile lace. Verily the two extremes, lace and fur, meet in this cos tume. The skin is very sup ple and drapes exquisitely. The sash end to of satin, the darker shade of orange, finished with a black silk tassel. The bodice and the tiny sleeves are of the same fragile lace as the tunic drapery. To carry out the barbaric note, the head drees is a remarkable affair of topazes and pearls. Just the costume for a bride’s trousseau is the tobacco brown char meuse and velvet of which I am also sending you a picture. The cutaway coat is of brown velvet, flowered with large brown and tan pansies. The in teresting surplice collar, turned back to show the neck, is of the brown charmeuse. There nre the long sleeves and the sloppy effect under the arms which Dame Fashion Inexorably de mands Just now. I particularly like the brown velvet hat worn with costume. The high aigrettes and the wreath round the edge of the brim are brown osprey feathers. And now I may sing my soqg of ribbons, and I am sure that you will agree with me when I tell you that ■'glorious" and gorgeous are the only words to describe them. They are interwoven and broid- ered as with gold and silver and further and frequently brocaded with half a dozen different and dar ingly contrasted colours. And of course, all this increase of beauity, fits in well with the new schemes for their use and display. In fact it was just because of their fore-ordained and frequent appear ance as long ended sashes, deeply swathed waist bands drawn into a big bow in front; encircling band ings about the knees and any num ber of other new and decorated devices, that ribbons have arrived at their present pitch of perfection. They are not only fair to outward view, but, positively, just us at tractive—in a stylishly different way —when, for purposes of looping, or draping, or just mere contrast, they are, literally, turned inside out. Of such two-sided decorativeness is one typical twelve-inch-wide satin sash ribbon, where great golden flowers blaze out on a back ground of other blurred blossoms in rose and cerise, soft blue and green, orange and flame, vivid sap phire and emerald, purple and am ber, a flnal half-inch edging of gold tissue at either side still further in creasing the richness of effect. In this case the gold device is suggestive of an additional embroid ery, but in another new ribbon it is an inseparable and interwoven part of the brocade of the device of big, closely clustered chrysanthe mums. But through some of the shimmering petals there also comes a flash of color—here the most bril liant of blues, there a warmth of rose, now a gleam of green, while in the weird and distinctly “impres sionist” background black and white and orange and flame. Each has its part, and you might even dis cover, too, on closer scrutiny, a soft gray and palest tea-rose yellow! Truly a wonderful amount of ar tistic ingenuity, as well as skill, goes to the making of one ribbon nowa days. Another thing of 'beauty and of ribbon is of distinctly and decora- tively Oriental effect, a scheme of color in, say, tawny browns, deep orange, pale amber and soft blues, -wihh just a fleeting suggestion of mauve and gray and white, be ing i r i*erwoven with shining gold tinsel threads, which, as worked into the ribbed sur face of the ribbon, lend an extraordi narily beautiful ef fect, their appear ances being so elus ive and constantly changing as to be somewhat suggestive of the sunlight playing on running water. There Is also an assured future for some less showy but very charming sash ribbons of satin—white, pink, gray or black—whose soft, rather dull, surface shows up far better than Ihe ordinary glossy variety, a broid- ered design of gold threads of almost laoe-like lightness, this dainty effect Unusual “Lucile” Gown of White Chiffon, Showing the Voluminous Scarf Train and the Double Hemless Skirt—And Above—Striking Evening Gown of Brocaded Chiffon in Shades of Taupe, with Bodice of Unlined Flesh-Colored Chiffon. being still further increased by the finishing of the scalloped >satin edges with a fine stitchery of gold. On the reverse side, however, it is the golden device which dominates and the soft satin which makes an unobtrusive background. And one of the most beautiful of all these new ribbons bas a bold con ventional device wrought in rather heavy silver or satin, on satin ef cerise, or purple, emerald green, or orange, or soft Saxe blue, to one and all of which a silver edging, threaded through with a line of the choseu color, is then added. The silver device also looks perfect on either a black or a white background, while gold Is chosen for the patterning of other black and white ribbons with equally good results. By the way, it is now made possi ble for the fashionable woman (for once in her life!) to look like a saint in a stained glass window! For it is just such saintly draperies which have provided the inspiration for the latest Parisian piquancy In the way of evening wraps. Purple and black are its colorings, and the long scarf drapery, which The Leopard Gown of Yellow and Black Fur Cloth and Point d’Alencon Lace, with, Novel Sash of Black Velvet can either be left to trail on the ground or be wound closely about the figure, is finished off and weight ed into any desired position by a bor dering of skunk, the same fur being used on-the neck. Here again It is possible to give lesser or greater prominence as desired to the contrast of color; and though It is a garment which is undoubtedly somewhat more difficult of manipulation and man agement than the ordinary wrap shapes, its effect can be so wonderful that some women will surely think it) worth the trouble. Another “surprise” coat is. at first sight, just one of those new closely enwrapped shapes, which ane clutch ed upwards carelessly, in such a way? that every line of the wearer’s figure is defined. But let this clutch be loos ened, and—bey, presto!—the soft ful ness of fur-bordered brocade or velvet falls apart and hangs straightly from the shoulders or the back, after the fashion of a court mantle, the upper and closely fitting part finishing off just below the waist". Correct Appointments for the Dinner Table By Mrs. FRANK LEARNED, Author of “The Etiquette of New York To-day.” F OR the correct serving of a y meal, whether It is the simple home dinner or for a more ceremonious occasion, there is a cer tain standard of excellence to be ob served. Those who care for the es sentials of refined living know that orderliness and dignity in the details of the table appointments are of vital Importance. The understanding of these matters should be the pleasure and pride of every young housekeeper and homemaker, who should be capable of instructing her servants in the method of laying a table and in the duties of attending to it and to all of its necessary be longings. An experienced maid may be taught to arrange the table at tractively and to take proper care of the linen, silver, cutlery, china and glass. v Not every one can have an accomplished butler. For the family meal there may be loss decoration than for an occasion when guests arc expected, but it is not a difficult thing to have an artistically arranged table every da>. Home may be made very attractive when all the small details are at tended to as a matter of habit. The comfort and cheerfulness of a din ner depend very much on the pleas ing effect of the table itself. The simplest' meal at a well-appointed table is enjoyable. Confusion or a promiscuous arrangement detract from pleasure and appetite. Table cloths and napkins should be of fine white double damask, fresh and spotless, silver and knives must be polished, glass shining, china in perfect condition. Napkins for dinner are from three- quarters to seven-eighths of a yard square, or at least of generous size. For formal dinners table cloths enriched with lace are sometimes used, but a hostess never makes a mistake who uses the plain white handsome damask of fine quality and perfectly smooth. When laying the table a thick under cloth of canton flannel should be spread and the table cloth laid over it. The table cloth should have been ironed with extreme care, folded in lines which divide the table at right angles. No stiffness is in perfectly ironed linen. It is soft and smooth. The folds serve as a guide in arranging the places, or “covers,” as they are termed, symmetrically. At each place is a plate. Care Is taken to have the places at the head and foot of the table, and at the side-s, exactly opposite to each other. On each plate is a plainly folded napkin, having within it, or on it, a roll or a thick piece of bread, but placed so that it may be seen. It is contrary to etiquette to have fanci fully arranged napkins. The usual rule is to have two or three forks at the left of each plate at dinner, according to the number of courses to be served. One or two steel knives are at the right. A sliver knife Is added, if there is to be a fish course. A tablespoon for soup is at the right of the knives. If oysters on the shell are to be served ar. oyster fork is at the right of the knives, or if grape-fruit is to be served an orange spoon is there. A perfectly even arrangement of forks, knives and spoons is important Knives are placed with the blades or sharp edges toward the plate. Glasses are at the right toward the tips of the knives. . Flowers are, of course, the most beautiful decorations for the centre of the table. If they are for any special entertainment they may best be preserved in their freshness and not placed on the table until com paratively within a short time be fore the guests are to arrive. A hostess who is careful goes to the dining room before the arrival of guests to see that the flowers and all appointments are as perfect as possible to give the finishing touches to the table. A jardiniere of growing ferns is a pleasing every-day centre piece, or fruit may be in a dish of silver, glass o: china. A handsome piece of orna mental silver, some choice heirloom, is sometimes used 1 as a centrepiece. Small pepper-pots of silver, salt cellars of silver with silver salt- spoons. are at the four corners of the table, or within easy reach of every two persons. There may be compotiers of silver or china for fruit or bonbons, small dishes with salted almonds, bonbons or cakes, but the table should not be overladen. Good taste is shown in the selection and arrangement ol' the appointments, the flowers, fruit or sliver. Anything planned for the sake of display is ostentatious and objectionable. On a serving table should be platg$ in readiness for the salad course, and for dessert, extra silver that may be required, a carafe, or a silver pitcher of iced water, and a plate with rolls or bread. Small dishes with olives and celery may be on the serving table and passed between the courses. It is not correct to place the small silver for dessert on the table when it is being laid for dinner. It is brought with the dessert plates. A dessert spoon and fork may be on each plate for this course, or may be put down at each place by the servant. After dessert the finger-howls are brought, each on a small plate, hav ing on it, beneath the finger bowl, a dainty doily, a mere bit of choice, filmy linen, lace or drawn work, merely to prevent the delicate china from being scratched. Finger bowls are less than half filled with water. At a family meal the after-dinner coffee may be served before leaving the table, but when guests are pres ent it is customary to have the coffee passed on a tray after the ladies have returned to the drawing room. This is done, as a general rule, in every-day home life. The coffee is in small cups, with coffee spoons laid on the saucers. A sugar bowl and tongs accompany the service. ^ Although this article deals chiefly with the appointments and not the serving of a dinner it may be stated that the service is according to thaf custom of having everything passed by the servant from the side table or pantry. It may be explained that all extra silver, pepper-pots and Salt-cellars are removed before dessert and crumbs are brushed off with a clean folded napkin into a fresh plate. In all well appointed households everything is removed from the table after a meal, the table cloth is carefully folded and put away. On the table is placed a centrepiece of linen and a vase of flowers or jardi niere of ferns or whatever may have been in the centre at dinner. Bread and butter plates are not used at dinner. OH, vinegar, mus tard, horseradish and the like are on a sideboard and passed when needed. Old-fashioned casters and cruets are not placed on the table. The preferred custom for lighting a dining room is to have shaded elec tric sidelights from the walls and to use lighted candles In old-fash ioned silver candlesticks on the table. Colored silk candle shades, or open-work silver shades, lined with a colored silk, are liked. If no side lights are in a room and there Is the necessity of having a light from overhead, at least it should not be glaring. Although a dining-room should not be too brilliantly lighted it Is' undesirable to go to the other extreme and have It dimly lighted. That is unbecoming and depressing. Flowers, candlesticks or orna ments should be arranged so that they may not interfere with the view across the table or with conversa tion with guests opposite. Copyright, 1913. by the Star Company. Great Britain Rights Reserved. ft "'N 9 . 4