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O the new fashions gpell sar-
D torial revelution, or do they
merely Indicate a fluctuation
vacillation or hesitation in the minds
of designers, between the mainte
nance of the familiar styles and of
those possessing the alluring attract
iveness of the new? That I 8 a ques
tion not yet sattled and one which
women will take their own good time
to determine,
At least one thing Is apparent,
namely, that the style arbiters of
Faris have determined to make the
davotees of fashion sit up and take
notice. Too long has the narrow skirt
held sway; too famtliar has become
the minaret tunic; the accustomed
slash has lost its novelty through
overuse; the decollete street blouse
no longer causes unusual interest, or
excites audible comment; the corset
lexs figure ia accepted as a matter of%
courge—in fact, the whole scheme of
fashion as Interpretsd in the winter
modes has heome flat, stale and un
profitable. j
By a somewhat circultous route
that course leads bhack to the quaint
modes of a bygone period In fact,
there is a delightful aroma of rn-‘
mance and a flavor of martial his
tory in certaln of the fashions rosus-‘
citated and remodelea for the do-‘
scendants of the very people whn}
wore them long ago. |
UITE the smartest collars of the
new geason ure in Gladstone,
Revolution or Medici contour
made of organdie and innocent of any
sort of decoration other than a hem
stitched edge. In gome Instances
these collars are wired, bat the pref
arence is for those without any artl
fictal support other than a thin in
fusion of starch, The great coutu
riers of Paris have indorsed the or
gandle collar by using it as a mod
fsh trimming for model suits and
gowns,
- - .
Give a woman an {lluslon and she
will make it a fact; give her a fact
and she will prove It an Ulusion, so
declared the old philogophers, and
certain it is that the illusion of a
feminine Parie to decree what the
world of women should wear has by
sheer force of woman's word bhecome
a fact,
Paris exports something like 8575,-
onn, 000 worth of frocks and frills
every year, and the basic principles
of the gowns designed hy the great
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Good Housekeeping Magazine is the Kewple
base of operations. From its pages they are wag
ing daily conflict with frowns, grouches, and all
forms of “blues.” And their campaign is sure to
be one of overwhelming victories.
The Kewpies amuse older folks just as much
as they delight the youngsters. They are the most
universally popular little entertainers since the
“Brownies” made thefr appearance a score of years
ago.
At News o g
Kewpie wiles make children's smiles. The
D l latest jolly pranks and the cutest wise savings of
ea erS this bright band are to be found only in
15 Cenits
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l i 5 i 000 t T P eOT R o T
In the begimning Man and Woman dressed alike. Then came, according to the tradition, the apple incident and the expulsion from the garden, and Woman was forced to cut herself a frill out
of a fig leaf, an linglish fashion writer recounts. Her slavery to “‘styles’” was then begun. Passing to the times of Egyptian civilization, one finds Woman paying more attention to decoration, and her
dressmaker went for inspiration to a kind of mystic muddle called a symbol. From Egypt proceeding to Greece the art of being a woman found its expression in more clothes, and later she seemed
to have hecome less free and consequently even more clothed. In the Renaissance and the Elizabethan periods she was draped and bound in erinolines, sometimes with a cast-iron farthingale. And
in Georgian times there came the bulging, hell-like effect, with festoons of lace ayd ribbons.
coutouriers of that city run the gamut
of styles from the French mannequin
to the American ready-made and the
final home dressmaking coples,
- - . .
ELLOW may be sald to dominate
the sartorial chromatlcs. 1t
flaghea forth {ts radlance In
serges, gabardine, rippls cloth and
various novelly weaves named and
unnamed. It is seen to best advan
tuge in the silks and satins which
contribute very largely to the cos
tumes, dresses and the wrapg of the
new seasgon. In taffeta—that üblqui
tous fabric—it {s frequently shot with
old blue, with red or with green; but
{n that partcular ton 2 known as brass
it is preferred unadulterated by an
other color,
. . -
Tt s u well-known fact that the
American woman is at her best In
afternoon costume. To the English
woman belongs the trim morning
frock, to the Russian woman the
golry of the evening gown, to the
French the charm of the negligee and
the filmy dance frocks, but Amer
fean women relgn supreme as far as
the afternoon gown s concerned,
Afternoon gowns play an impor
tant part, too, nowadays; It is the
afternoon gown that a woman wears
to a luncheon, to a matinee, to the
tea dance, to the art exhibit, the
wedding, and all the festivities of
modern life, with the exception of the
dinner dance and theater,
In congequence, the sallent features
of the afternoon gowns are of para
mount importance to the well-dressed
woman, and these, according to Parls,
are wide, girdleless, ending in bustle
loops, ate tunics and blouses on
frocks of taffeta or tussah, the side
looping of skirts, the use of artificlal
The Cycle of Women’s Fashions, From Eve---Via Dra
flowérs as trimming, the vogue of
tassels and novel collars,
The preference for frocks of cham
pagne shades and dull blues is very
marked, One of dhese is of
champagne taffeta with a tunle
of: coffee-colored lace that s
tucked up at the back into a bustle
like fullness accentuated by the wide
loope of a dull brown sash. The bod
ice {8 extremely transparent, being of
the coffee-colored lace, with touches
of gold, made up over flesh-pink chif
fon and cloth of gold A corsage
touquet of bachelor buttons lends a
sharp note of color, and the whole
effect {s charming.
- . .
LOVERS are an extremely impor
tant detall. According to the
rule In Paris, one's hands may
be bare, but in America woman has
never quite accepted this dietum.
Therefore, she will salect her gloves
in either white or mastic shade,
or if she be an extremist, the gloves
in strong colors to match the chro
matics in the gown or sult will appeal
to her.
At any rate, the correct length will
be the one-button glove and this re
lates not only to the street glove, but
also to the one intended to go with
the evening gown with the long
sleeve. There is a feeling just now
that mitts will make their appear
ance, but their general use will be as
sociated with the quaint old-fash
jfoned costumes in Dolly Varden volles
and silk for summer wear,
The new wrist bags are made of
flowered silks as well as silks in Ro
man and Tartan design. They are
consgpicuously smaller than those of
recent months.
- - .
The thing that everybody lls very
I{EQBSESA‘ST'NHAY AMERICAN, ATLANTA, GA... SUNDAY, JULY 19, 1914
’much interested in s the all-impor
tant matter of skirt widths and skirt
lengths, Paris is manifesting doub!
on the former-——half of the style au
thorities declare in favor of a wider
skirt, and the other half place in
sistence on the maintenance of nar
row lines.
. - :
N THE lingerie frock the drapable
quality of the new cottons lends
self admirably to the new pannlier
and flounce effect. Great quantities
of lace and of fine crepon or batisté
embroideries are used to trim the lin
‘gerie dress. And there are fascinat
ing frocks of the lingerie type that
are composed entirely of organdie
embellished with embroidery done on
that same sheer material.
Organdie, by the way, is one of the
most noteworthy revivals of all the
many old-fashioned fabrics brought
to notice this season.
| Nearly all the little French mod
els have colored sashes completed
!ehher with the broad Japanese bow
In the back, or with fly-away stream
‘ers that reach quite to the edge of
‘the hem, or else are caught up and
‘made a part of the pannier drapery.
. In connection with the creations of
Tluxurious cotton fabrics are to be no
‘ticed the little boleros or “casques”
of gayly flowered silks designed to be
‘worn over the diaphanous blouse,
'more for the sake of its highly deco
rative quality than with any thought
of protection from summer zephyrs
or veranda draughts.
. . .
Whatever the new neck fixing, the
rule supreme is that it must be low in
front, shcw some of the neck or much
of it, as to individual taste—and neck.
The softening effect against the face
of a bit of pink or white neck in front
is a vast improvement on the ugly
old high collar which eliminated all
artistry of neck. One chief assistant
at the orgy of sheerness in the fash
fonable accessories, where heavy but
tons have to be eliminated is the
snap-fastener, dolng its work invis
ibly and not endangering the delicate
meshes as hooks 0.
. . -
With the low front collar the gay
old sun must not be allowed too close
a view of pretty necks, so a parasol
or two must be added to the ward
robe. 1t is a pretty idea to have the par
asol match the costume in some way
it it is only in the little bunch of
roses that is tied to the handle, for
that is the latest kink. Odd shapes
and bright colors are to be the thing
—it can not be too often said that
bright colors will be accepted by
evervore thls season, frivolous and
fastidfous alike Taffeta pamsnls,‘
ribbon-trimmed parasols, and minaret
ruffled parasols follow closely tha
vogue in dress and make it possible |
to have a completed costume, fn-m!
the chiffon-frilled sunshade to the:
sole of the dainty lady buttoned bout.‘
There has heen considerable effort
this season to revive the separate
ckirt, and that means, of course, a
corresponding revival of the separate
blouse. When you find the separate
skirt in the shops vou usually find 1t
in that most delightful of the
summer favorites, black pussy
willow taffeta, and more often than
not, made with peplum or flounces.
Whan yvou decide on a separate skirt
of black taffeta, just go over to the
blouse counter and luxuriate in the
{nexpensive little dears of cshadowy
laces, sheer nets, and fine-as-hand
work machine embroidery.
L . -
In bodice style quite the newest
thing is the simulated jacket which
appears on one-piece dresses—not a
real bolero, but a make-believe ane,
that is caught to the silk of the net
or lining and falls at the waistline
over the draped girdle. Sometimes at
the back it runs down under the belt
into a peplum, giving all the more the
look of a separate jacket.
You must make your collar the fea
ture of your frock if you would con
form in every detail—the Japanese
effect that is gathered just a Dbit
along the back and even into the
revers, to give the right thickness of
appearance, and to stand away quite
decidedly at the back of the neck; the
Medici type that is high and rolling.
made of firm material that stands
alone, or wired with invisible wires.
Again, you may discard either of these
collar styles and still be fashionable,
for if a woman's chief beauty lies in
the curve of her neck it is a shame to
cover it up even with the prettiest
of collars. Use instead the low col
lar, but have it cut in some odd shape
and made of some fancy fabric.
- - -
Yot may have your frock as crepy
as you choose now, for the latest sort
is Egyptian crepe, very crinkly in
deed, and usually printed with dainty
flowers.in soft Oriental colorings. A
little less crinkly, but quite as smart,
are the mandarin crepes, which also
are printed and which drape delight
fully. There is even a satin that is
crepy, but one is never surprised now
to be shown any sort of weaves in
any sort of material. for the looms
have hecome wonder workers, even
to the making of crinkly satin noc
turne.
CHAITER ¢r SOCIETY
Continued From Page 1.
who has followed behind the Jack
Sandere party through one or two big
foreign towns, and it tells in glowing
terms of the impression made by
pretty Louire Riley, who Is traveling
with the Sanders abroad this sum
mer. In Bremen she was the hon
oree at several elaborate social af
fairs, and at Barcelona it was the
same. The Sanders have many per
sonal friends in these two cities, and
it was to them and their beautifui
niece, Miss Riley, that the entertain
ments were given. Miss Riley will
return to Atlanta next week, accom
panied by her father and mother, Mr.
and Mrs. R. E. Riley, who went to
New York to meet the party last
week.
. - .
AID an Atlanta grandmother:
S “I've got to go and make up my
schedule for the week.”
This Is it:
Monday Night—Forsyth Theater.
Tuesday Night—Capital City Club
dance or Driving Club dance; to be
decided later.
Wednesday Afternoon—Tea-dance
at Driving Club.
Thursday Night—Brookhaven Club
dinner and dance.
Friday Night—Capital City Club
roof dance.
Saturday Night—Driving Club
dance.
Sald I:
“What about Sunday night?"
Said she:
“Oh, that is well filled, too. I have
had to transfer myv little obligations
to my grandchildren from Saturday
night to Sunday night, and they will
keep me busy, vou may be sure.”
Two years £go that grandmother
would have protested dolefully
against being “dragged out” to the
theater, or to “sit around” at a dance.
Vive langos - 5. o
Miss Nina Gentry, writing from
the Grove Park Inn at Asheville, says
1t {s just like having a suite at the
Driving Club,
“Almost evervbodv I know in At-
Janta comes arcund every afternoon,”
writes Miss Gentry, “and that keeps
me from being home sick and makes
my stay here a very pleasant one.”
I should !magine so.
- . »
NEW use has been found for the
moon, used for untold ages to
spoon under and for canine ser
enades.
Now it is the tango searchlight;
and those who have trled it say that
all artificial illumination appears loud
and garish as a purple bathing suit by
contrast.
The experiment came about by way
of necessity, as most inventions do.
The other night at the Capital Cilty
Club the tangoers were distressed by
the turning off of tre lights at mid
night.
“Let's dance by moonlight,” sug
gested some i{nspired dancer.
It was on the roof garden, and that
is just what they did. The orchestra
was bribed and otherwise persuadeil
to perform by ear, which it did very
‘acceptably; and the tangoing contin
ued until—
Well, until it stopped. The moon
was in fine fettle that night.
. - -
‘. - <
1§ DON'T see why some of these
l charity ballers don't give a tango
| for our s&ociety elders. Tl'll take
back the elders, however, as nobody
is an elder any more. Some are
younger than others.
But I do believe it would be a tre
'mendous hit, and all kinds of a gay
affair.
I nominate Colonel and Mrs. Wil
liam Lawson Peel to lead.
\ - - .
HE argument {s a sort of long
and-short-of-it affair—are tall
i girls better dancers than short
| girls?
~ I'm not going to decide it; not Lln
the first place, I have a lot of friends
on both sides. In the second place, 1
am neither long nor short myself. In
the third place, it is an impossible
question in the first piace.
Sometimes I fancy that there's
nothing quite equal to the willowy
dipper, fair and divinely tall, as Vir
‘r.l or Ovid, or some of those sporiy
old classics would say. There is Hei
en Dargan, for instance. And Esther
Smith, slightly more latitudinal than
Helen, but statuesque enough to suit
the most exacting Pygmalion of them
all
On the other hand, we have Vir
ginia Bowman and Janet Hatcher,
and a goo! many cthers. It really
seems to be a case of the last one you
see dancing
- - .
HAVE oftsn heard the waves called
I sad and have always wondered
why. It seems to me that the
ocean ought to be a very jolly old
soul, at least that part of it tha is
near the coast where all the pretty
girls go in swimming. And that it
can be a very naughty ocean when It
wants to was proved the other day at
Cumberland when a great big wave
Whi i led
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HEAD - HIGH ARM--
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CAPPED NEEDLE
BAR AND PRESSER
FOOT-BAR — This pro
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FOUR-MQTION FEED-—
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POSITIVE TAKE-UP—
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Presser-foot and needle
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. . \ -
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WESTERN MERCHANDISE & SUPPLY CO.
324 W. MADISON STREET - . CHICAGO,ILL.
not only tumbled a little girl over, but
ripped the skirt of her bathing suit
from waist to hem. She was all right
as long as she stayed In the water,
and when she came out there was no
lingering on the heach for that morn
ing Instead, she carefully held the
edges of the gap together and beat a
hasty retreat toward the hotel, re
fusing all invitations to play ball or
run races or sit on the sand and talk.
And vess few people ever knew why
she was so unsoclable that morning.
* * .
CAST not, except to someone in
B a distant city who can't prove
anyvthing on you. That is good
advice, as one of our most recent re
cruits to the ranks of the Benedicts
has found out to his sorrow. I doubt
if he ever hears the last of the va
riations that his friends are getting
screw drivers and other accessories and attachments to
N repair roiler skates and other like articles after having
o located the ordinary sewini machine key, are completely
A ;’(FI;%’F%M b{(he Fanfous Automatic Drawer Locks of the
s CERLESS No, 2% machine
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up on a very simple little tale. The
newly married man didn't like to ad
mit even to his best friend and one
time best man that he had taken to
living a life of ease, soo he maintained
that he stil! rose at 6, and that 7
o’clock found him at the office every
morning. Mr. Best Man may have
entertained some doubts, but he said
nothing and bided his time. One
morning the following week, when
Benedi:ct and his wife strolled down
to breakfast about half-past 7, thera
sat the best friend calmly eating his
ecggs. Ha exhibited much surprise.
“I knew, of course, that you had
already gone to the office,” he sald,
“but I thought I'd stop in and get
some left-over breakfast.”
Now Benedict boasts no more.
Anyhow, 8 o'clock is early enough for
any man to go to work.
IOUR IRONCLAD 20-YEAR GUARANTEE accompanites this
| machine. Should any machine, with proper care and nee,
proye defective in material or workmanship, we hereby agree
to duplicate any part that proves defective on return of same,
and if necessary will readjust at our factory iree of charge any
defective machine if returned within the time specified.
THE SPOOL TRAY FREE—Every woman using 2 sewing ma
chine will readily appreciate this convenience. It is made of
hard wood, covered with blne velveteen. The spool pins are
nickel-plated and will hold 12 spools of thread. It Y\as a box for
buttons and bobbins, a thimble holder, needle and pin cushion,
and ebony handle to remove it from the machine if necessary.
It is universally conceded to be one of the most practical im
rovements ever put on a sewing machine. This tray can onlv
ge fonnd with the Peerless No. 214, and with machines sold
by the Vestern Mdse. & Supply Ca
is well braced, strongly
re-inforced and the bal
ance wheel is protected
by a wide dress guard or
shield. The specially
hardened ball - bearings
make it very light-run
ning and noiseless, thas
going away with the
rattle and noise found
in point-bearing ma
chines after they have
been used some time,
ACCESSORIES AND
ATTACHMENTS FREE
~—The following acces
sories are free with this
Goodrich “B.” machine:
One oil can filled with
oil, one package of nee
dles, one gauge screw,
one foot hemmer, one
screw driver, six beb
bins, one combination
screw driver, one thread
cutter, one ingtruction
book printed in five lan-
Fuagcs, vie.: English,
' German, French, Span
tsh and Scandanavian. A
complete set of steel at
tachments enclosed in a
handsome japanned met
a! velvet-lined box, con
sisting of the following:
One tucker, one ruffler
with shirring plate, one
hemmer, set (4 widths)
and binder, one braider,
one thread cutter; also
one gauge, one pvxir
screw, one oil can (All
ed), slx bobbins, one in
struction book, one com
bination screw driver,
one hemmer (which is
also a feller), one belt
and coupling, one shut
tle, one quilter, one doz
en needles.