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Latest Curved Brim Sailer of
Black Velvet Worn with Odd
Bulgarian Cape of Black Satin
Lined with Orange Crepe.
By
Lady
Duff-
Gordon
HAT will the
W new felt
hat be?
Verily, it is rather
early in the year to
speak with authority
on this engrossing
but very changeable subject Any
one, could make a fortune by strik
ing just the mode which will
please the critical fancy of the
mondaine.
Just at present, we, in Paris,
and at San Sebastian, are wearing
black velvet hats. The months of
July and August invariably are the
black velvet months for the Con
tinent. This fashion makes small
headway in the United States, for
the terrible heat. the blasting sun,
so peculiar to your country, makes
velvet hats perfectly unendurable.
In fact. 1 think that the heavily
trimmed, thickly woven straw
hats are too heavy for the
July and August sun whici
shines on the American
towns.
On the Continent and in Eng
land. too, hats of velvet, silk and
even light tweeds for shooting and
golf are not too burdensome. Re
cently | saw a tailored hat which
might be excellent for morning
wear even in New York. It [s ex
ceedingly serviceable for these
days of uncertain weather
It is made in the Petersham
which you have hitherto, 1 expect,
only associated with the inner
waistbands of your gowns. It takes
apon itself a new and silky tex
ture, and a somewhat ribbon-like
aspect altogether. In its greatest
width it is just deep enough to
form the whole of the crown, while
then another piece is used for the
making of the brim, but the effect
is even prettier when a narrower
length is deftly folded round and
round. Simple trimmings only are
permissible, for such a hat—a
couple of tiny plumage quills, for
instance, surrounding two tall
stems, held together at the base
by a tiny white bird, with wings
somewhat pathetically out
stretched, or perhaps another bird
—a less realistic but more humane
adornment this—medelled in cut
jet, will shine out in front of the
crown, Wwhile again two little
wings, poised mercury fashion,
against the crown, seem specially
suitable as well as smart on a hat
which is so well adapted to travel
ling and motoring wear
A narrow pleating, or binding of
the Petersham is also appearing
pow on the brims of the latest
black velvet hats, which are there
by making a new bid for popular
fty. Then further trimming will
frequently in such cases consist
of a cluster of gardenias or just a
single snowy blossom set round
with the glossy green leaves.
If, however, the more ordinary
The
Feather
Cone
Hat,
Newest
Startling
Example
of
the
Craze
for
Feathers,
Shown
in
This
Black
Satin
and
Flame
Colored
Fancy.
and possibly more becoming, fin
ish of fur be given to the black
velvet hat, there will probably be
affixed in front or at one side—
standing proudly erect on its
sturdy and rather tall stalk—a
flower with furry whiskers to
match!
Really, this is the only descrip-
A New Poem by Sappho, the Ella Wheeler Wilcox of Ancient Greece
OINCIDENT with the recognition of Ella
C Wheeler Wilcox by the London critics
and poetry-loving masses of England
as the modern poet of most popular appeal
comes news of the discovery of a hitherto un
known poem by Sappho. the immortal ancient
Greek poetess of passion
It is not known that Mrs Wilcox ever
adopted Sappho as her model, though that fact
might seem indicated in her earlier lyrics,
notably “Poems of Passion.” The newly dis
covered Sappho fragment was found at
Oxyrhynchus, Egypt. by Dr B. P _Grenfell and
Mr A S Hunt, directors of the Egypt Explo
ration Fund The parchment text is in classi
cal Greek apd in parts undecipherable, owing
to the great age of the material upon which
the poem was copied, probably by some an
+ cient Alexandrian scribe
The illegible portions have been restored,
so far as Greek scholarship of the present day
is capable of such a task, by J M. Edmonds.
of Cambridge University. Mr Edmonds’s
litesal, unmetrical translation reads as fol:
lows®
“The fairest thing in all the world some
say is a host of horsemen, and some a
bost of foot, and some again a navy of
ships, but to me 'tis the heart's beloved.
And 'tis easy to make this understood by
any. When Helen surveyed much mortal
beauty she chose for best the destroyer of
The Hat of the Boulevards. Small, Close:
Fitting Cap of Velvet, Trimmed with
Enormously High Black Aigrette.
tion which will give you any idea
of the new growth which fashion
has added to the roses, poppies,
camellias and gardenias, whose
petals show the queer little fringe
of fur.
it ds rather mad, of course, but
also it is rather fascinating, and
anyway, it is something new.
In spite of my personal feelings
in the matter, I have really been
able to find several hats which
might please Americans even 80
early as September lam send
ing photographs of four such hats
and one of a most remarkable
wrap.
The wrap literally folds around
the figure in a most fascinating
manner. It has a curious armhole
effect. The fabric is a lustrous
black satin, lined with orange
crepe The saflor hat is coming
back into favor. This is an un
usually chic shape, of black velvet.
The feathers are osprey, of course.
The other three hats are brim
less cap affairs, fitting the head
all the honor of Troy, and thought not so
much either of child or parent dear, but
was led astray by Love to bestow her
heart afar, for woman is ever easy to be
bent when she thinks lightly of what is
near and dear. Even so you to-day, my
Anactoria, remember not. it seems, when
she is with you, ome of whom I would
rather the sweet sound of her footfall and
the sight of the brightness of her beaming
tace than all the chariots and armored
footmen of Lydia. 1 know that in this
world man cannot have the best, yet to
pray for a share in what was once shared
is better than to forget it. * * "
Perhaps no writer of antiquity, whose works
have come down to us so fragmentarily. is so
weil known to us, at any rate by name, as
Sappho, the immortal poetess of Lesbhos.
Until recently she was represented by
only two short but exquisite odes, together
with a few fragments which had been pre
served by other writers, but these pieces, one
of which is also known in its Latin version by
Catullus, were perhaps enough to justify in
modern eyea the poetess’ great reputation in
the ancient world. Since, however, Egypt, the
classical hunting ground for lost texts, began
during the mresent generation to reveal its
treasures a good many fresh fragments of
Sappho have been recovered, and her fame,
as well as that of her contemboraries. now
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The Polo Hat of 1914, Again the Close-Fitting,
Forehead-Shading Hat of Black Satin,
with Odd Feather Aigrettes.
snugly and ‘hiding
most of the fore
head. In each case
the decorations are
some form of feath
ers,
And now to talk
of some other things.
If you have a black
taffeta dress it will
frequently be pre
vided with one of
the newest and most
turning curves at the left side
gandie muslin, under whose down
aurning curves at the lefl side
there will frequently be fast
ened a little posey of variously
colored flowers or else just a
single fullblown pink or damask
rose. The latter and darker shad
ing being more favored, at the
moment than for many a long day.
But only let it be clearly under
stood in the form of a finish for
corsage or collar, as for millinerial
purposes, blossoms of purest white
or palest pink, or shimmering
silver seem to have displaced the
ordinary and brighter-hued flow
ers.
The simpler black taffeta gowns,
and also the more elaborate ones
—(whose corsage. as far as the
silk is concerned, ends its career
beneath the arms, the rest being
merely a transparency of tulle)—
are both alike being provided
with the completion of a silk cape,
the coats being generally reserved
for the purpose of bringing a more
or less—and usually more—bril
liant color into contrast with a
delicately tinted or pure white
gown. One such wrap whose
knee-deep basque takes a distinct
“flare” at the sides is of emerald
green silk, with just a tonch of
gold broidery for its outward
adernment, and a lining of white
satin to spften it down somewh~t.
A sash effect of loosely knotted
silk holds it in low down across
the front, and the collar is so ar
ranged that it can, when desired,
be fastened elosely up to the
throat by means of little loops
finished off with acorn-like orna
ments of green silk broidered in
gold. These being passed through
buttonhole openings after the
manner of sleeve links.
Next you must know that the
newest and prettiest conceit in the
way of veilings is made in a black
or dark blue or flesh colored net of
almost cobwebby texture, but,
withal, a surprising amount of
strength, a length sufficient for
draping about the small or medium
hat shapes of the season being en
ciosed in a mere midget reproduc
tion of a bandbox, in whatever
color may be best suited to the
niood, or the costume, or the hand
hag of the moment—and the owner.
For it is in the handbag that this
wee box can be, and indeed is to be
sheltered and carried, so that the
smart and becoming veil is always
ready for use when wanted—even
if you do not start out with it in
actual wear, another advantage
being, of course, the possibility of
putting the filmy, fascinating thing
away in safety if or when you de
sire to discard it, after wearing ig
for a certain part of the day.
rests on a firmer basis. It would be unneces
sary to quote the many tributes which English
poets have paid to “burning Sappho”; but one
may perhaps recall the lines of Mrs. Brown
ing, for they have a biographical significance:
“Sappho, with that auriole
Of ebon hair on calmed brows,
O poet-woman! none fcregoes
The leap, attaining the repose.”
“The leap,” of course, is an allusion to the
legendary feat of her leaping, after her vain
pursuit of Phaon, who disdained her, into the
sea off the Leucadian promontory; but the
story does not tell us whether she died odthe
adventure or not. But whatever legend has
to relate of hen, it is certain that at Lesbos
she was at the head of a great school of
writers in the heyday of Aeolic poetry, and
her reputation as “the poetess” rivalled that
of Homer as “the poet.” Of her contempo
raries we have, unfortunately. even fewer
fragments than of her own poems: but in this
last Egyptian discovery some fresh pieces
have also come to light of Alcaeus, who ad
dressed her, as we-knew already, in an oda
and was answered by her in another. -
The manuseripf in which the poem appears
has the tantalizing subscription, “The First
Book of the Lyrics of Sappho, 1,332 Lines,”
on the last of the fifty-six fragmenis from
which barely a dozen stanzas, besides thoss
quoted above, can be restored.