Newspaper Page Text
Deception mb
TheatmCioakf
of Quality of
apqe U/or9 By
of /T\<j!ti-/T\illio9aires.
U/l?ite \JLfitl7
|T\usi(;al U/orp
Ku\t\) poster
<5 os tu jf/
THE subject Is cloaks; *O, considering
past performances, I know that
puns about the cloaks of society are
expected—figures of speech—before 1 be
gin to discuss with proper gravity the
graceful cloaks designed for the figures of
the sinuous ladies of society.
But Cholly, my husband, who really sup
plied all the previous puna, has a fright
ful cold in his head—the common or gar
den variety of cold —even though he is
a Knickerbocker. Cholly is so clever! But
Cholly, at present, is so 111! There is, of
course, the mantle of charity which in
society is used to cloak vauity and petty
ambition. For the benefit of charity, the
society womao has the few chances of her
lifetime to pose before the footlights.
Such wonderful living pictures were those
we had last season! In Bostou. Chicago
and New York there was a mixture of
vanity, gayety and charity, and the great
est of these was vanity.
But it is a poor psychic wave of vanity
that blows no one any good, and sick
babies in hospitals and indigent womea
were benefited thereby.
But now for cloaks of satin, of supple
broadcloth and of coetly furs. Cloaks, long,
full and flowing gracefully, will be of more
importance thia season than hitherto, for
\often they are really draperies that are a
part of the costume Itself. They wIU be
worn in the afternoon more than in pre
vious seasons, and black aatin cloaks of the
sort that our grandmothers loved will again
be in style. Dull shades such as wistaria
and eggplant are favorites, and many of the
new cloaka from Paris are without any
blatant trimming, but they are amasing In
design. The material is tied in knot 6, hauga
In festoons from the shoulders and looks
as though It were draped on the figure
without any seams. Long, heavy tassels
hang from every possible point.
Simple cloaks, of course, there are, and
the very sweetest and simplest of these
ire adaptations of the Shaker model. Theae
never go out of style. The Shakers at Mt.
Lebanon and at West Pittsfield, near the
fashionable villa colony at Lenox, make
cloaks In all the soft, sweet candy colors
beloved by brides and debutantes. Miss
DuraDd, the daughter of Sir Mortimer Du
rand, when her father was Ambassador to
this country, spent ths Summer in Lenox,
and so delighted was she with she Shaker
cloaks that speedily the daughters of ths
multi-millionaires followed her lead and
adopted them for evening. The cloak orig
inally meant “unspottedness from the world
and equality of inheritance,” and they were
made only In dull drab colors. But over the
glittering spangled frock they are tossed by
the gay butterfly girl of the social world.
OS to the dance In the cloak that signifies
the principles of Mother Ann Lee! Off to
Sherry’s for the supper with champagne,
squabs and all the rich viands In the cloak
of tho Shakers, who still adhere to the
principle that s vegetable diet has “a hap
pifying inflnence on the mind.” For the
“happlfying influence” we in society de
pend upon the champagne bubble.
The original cloak of the Shakers was
very short. Sometimes one sees thie model;
It falls only to the waist 11ns and has a
small cepe that fall* over the arm. Lately,
however, it has been made much like the
Connemarra cloak worn by the blue-eyed
girts of Ireland, who go to take their seats
on the wlshlng-stones in the hope of haring
their heart’s desire.
As an adjunct of the Beardaley costume*
there will be many black cloaks lined with
white, and white cloaks lined with black.
The New Butterfly Dance.
THr latent exponent of elanslcil flu no
lo* la Mlaa Pbyllla Monkman, who
appears In tb<- third act as the
mosieal play “Butterflies," at the Apollo
Theatre lo London. An English paper
printed this criticism of Miss Monkman'a
dancing : “This girl, who cannot be mors
than seventeen, and la remarkably pretty,
appearel as a butterfly with gauae wings
and a skirt which was little more than a
whisper. The only covering on the upper
part of her body was a ‘btesotplate’ of
Jewels end a few strings of glittering
stones The young girl la an excellent
dancer, and although In her movements
there Is siyifng suggestive or objectionable.
It la a question whether the art of ths
stage Is advanced by the Introduction of a
girl partially nude, no matter how poetic
net poses and dancing may be. The fact
that Miss Monkman la Just budding Into
womanhood accentuates the doubtful taste
of spoiling an otherwise charming act with
the Introdnctlon of each a dance."
In reply to this, the management of the
theatre made a vigorous protest, lo the
course of which they said:
"The management claim that the dance
It both lkllfm and poetic, and, considered
as t dance. It Is fir lo advance of the
manr type* of classic dancing at present
In vogue, It was evolved by Mr. Willie
Ward In deference to the public taste, and
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Pnrla, let it be explatned. Is now peopled
with pen-and-ink ladles The fad was bom
at Ostend, where tableaux vivant like the
drawings by Beardsley were given during
August. Bo the fad quickly arrived in
Paris, and has beeo brought across the
ocean by returning travellers. Yes, even
In New York, women are trying to look like
pen-and-ink drawings. In the society pa
pers that come from London there art all
sorts of queer poster pictures placed in a
black border, and these crazy illustrations
are used as models by the dressmakers.
be has succeeded In combiolng tbe skill of
the trained dancer with that poetry of mo
tion wblcb baa hitherto been the outstand
ing feature of the recent revival of tbe
ancient Greek style of dancing.
“The management consider that to obtain
the perfection of poetic charm, the da ace
should be danced by a young gin Joat bud
ding into womanhood, rather than by a lady
whose charms are more matured. There
la not the slightest suggestiou of Indeli
cacy cither In the dance or In the cos
turne."
Mlm Monkman. who Is s very graceful
and also a pretty woman was born in
January, l*l>2, and made her first appear
ance on tba stage when she was twelve.
She is tbe daughter of Mr. Jack Harrison,
of the Eccentric Club, of London.
Doll’s Luck.
Margie was Industriously sewing for b*r
doll, when she suddenly stopped work and
turned to her mother:
"Oh, mamma, what do you think?**
■he exclaimed
"WLat 1* the trouble, dearie?" asked
the mother
"I stsrted to make my doll s bonnet,"
-explained Margie, “and I do believe !t*a
going to rotne out an apron!**—Woman's
Home Companion.
A black snd white poster tfrl will th»e
Winter often wear a whit# satin evening
Hoak oa which there are fantt#tU design#
load# tt.Ut black soutache braid. All ths
Broadcloth Evening Closk of Wistaria Color with One End Thrown Over Left
Shoulder to Protect Chest and Making a Graceful Drapery. Trimmed with Wide
Band of Embroidery with Delicate Blue, Silver and Gold Combined. The Collar
I» of Ducheaee Lace with a Pale Blue Ribbon of Liberty Satin Tied at One Side.
B—A Cloak of Apricot-Colored Chiffon Velvet with White Satin 1 lining Folded Bark
in Two Revert at Each Side. Ends Are Knotted and Tassels Are Used as Trim
ming. Large Artificial Rosea Make the Collar and the Waistcoat is Apricot Color
Embroidered with Silver and Gold.
Cr—Gorgeoue Oriental Dinner Coet of Red Satin with Bird and Dragons Embroidered
m Green with Gold.
D—A Cloak of Donkey-Gray Broadcloth Lined with Whits Satin and Trimmed with
Heavy Silver Cord and Tassels.
Iflnetrators in Parta now earn Mg turns If
they choose by doing the line work for black
coetomea. making an artistic arrangement
of tba black and white. A auperb gendou
rab cloak (a garment copied after that of
the Kabylee In North Africa) will be cut,
for scampi*, from white liberty satin and
will bs lined with black satin of tbe «nm#
sort. The black shows down the front
where the cloak parts tn a looplike drapery
at the beck, while black pipings make ef
fective Un#s on the snow-wbtte ground.
One of the most original cloaks to wear
with s pen-and-ink costume Is of snow
white broadcloth with a wide border made
of applications of black velvet. You look
at the border, end you not# a charming de
tlgn with horlsontal lines and egg-shapod
figures at the end of stems. Thistles rnado
of black velvet application and fine em
broidery allk. you observe, nre cleverly In
troduced in the border. Just such e cloak
was designed by an artist for a gay friend
of mine. Her parlor trick tor atuot, we
really cell It In society) is to slag Blotch
sod gs. for her father Is one of those shin
ing steal mngnatas of Pittsburg bom In
Hobble Burns's country. "Annie lamrle."
when she sings It by the light of the fra
grant t/syberry candles, which are so con
duelve to sentiment, always makes one cry.
Ho one of the artists who sat In tbe candle
light, much moved by her beauty and her
voice, became b«r devoted slave, aud he It
was who designed tbe "Annl# Laurie" bor
dvr tor bar white broadcloth evening cloak.
Any one who looks at It for a f#w minutes
can easily read th« notes and recognise the
song. Delicate flowers, however, will on all
these musical herd• rs go trailing over the
bars, so that the song will not be too con
spicuous, for the clonk with this decoration
usually b»» same sentimental secret at
tached to It.
la fact, tba musical borders ar« not half
so conspicuous as that ugly Oi#rfaa key,
which I saw embroidered with heavy silk
floes of dull green on t wUJe border thst
( ruined • cloak of biscuit-colored broadcloth
, Cliolly Is now busy designing a mnsKal
\ opera cloak for me. Ha Is Just as much
t of an adept as Harry Loir, who arranged
yards upon yards of valnsbl# lac# on one
of Mrs. Lehr's costumes so that It whs
unnecessary to out It. Tbe day that Choi
ly’a cold was so bad (of course, Ilk# all
men, he scared himself Into pnau
rnonlo) he said he thought perhaps he’d
better choose "The Merry Widow" waits
for my border, and In th# end that la
what we really decided to have. The
cloak Itself will be Kournnulan In style,
•nd not of black and white exclusively, but
with a trailing vine embroidered with fine
gold and sliver threads across the stoma
of the notes and through the bars. Of
course. Cholly had s lot to say about using
tbe dollar sign Instead of the clef sign, but
I want th# waits worked out artistically
and correctly, and now he la doing It
beautifully.
Cholly la so elavarl
The dollar a,gn Is, however, conspicuous
on the long cloaks of sable, chinchilla or
ermine, for only a billionaire can buy for
bis wife a Ilusslan sable cloak of the sort
1 saw the other day. Th# skins arc so
perfectly matched that the dark markings
In the fur meet In points down th# seam
In back, making Va, ns It w«r«, from th#
collar to th# hem. On# would think these
dark lines were painted on the fur with s
brush. Chinchilla, the most perishable fur,
la at th# same time the moat popular fur
among young girls. Mrs. Mmlth lioillns
ID Kirn, who has been so amaslngly suc
cessful at Newport this Hummer, has su
perb chinchilla, and the Duchess of Marl
borough always has an opera cloak of this
bacon*log fur.
Korn* of the fur opens cloaks sr# lined
with gay bread# that la veiled with chif
fon. Ited rotes, for Instance, may tor seen
through black chiffon. Ail gorgeous bro
caded linings are twice ae seductive when
veiled in this way. Muffs, of course, are
seldom carried to the theatre, but for tbe
most sumptuous sort, when ths long fui
coat Is worn In tbe afternoon, there sre
surprising decorations. A bird of paradise
may have Its bill pressed Into the fur end
its orange colored plumage will emerge in
curving sprays Very often Clany is>e and
golden brown chiffon and gorgeous ospreys
b? Mm.
1 Qatydoural?,
| /T\a9dari9 ai?d
| j^eu;
are combined with sable in th» making of
a inaguiflceot muff.
Ermine will, of course, be appropriated
by the poster girls. But the aristocratic
opera cloak of ermine must be mads of the
tailless sort and only trimmed with wide
hands of the other kind the old fashioned
variety of ermine. 10 which little black tails
How Science Explains 'That Sixth Sense,
CLAIRVOYANTS nnfl persons o t *n to
ti-nssly ,tip«r»Htloo, nntiirn sr, lorn,
tlm said to poss-s, n "sixth
thff sro con .‘'lntis of th« oilst
ones “f thing* which »ro not to h* rosllxnd
through taste, touch, sight, siutll or tear
ing
lt.it such nn appeal to tho hraln can
hsrdlT t>« sst‘l to b« through nn/ tiody
"souse,'’ nnfl thoroforn tbo "sixth scoso"
rofoirod to doos not rosily belong to thst
.. .gory Hctcnc, point, out, howoy,r. thst
certain nnttnnl* buv, th, advantage ov,r
tnnn that they nr» nctnntoil by not inornly
six soosi'u, hut, In soma cssos of s*ou ad
amount sportal souses
In do.crlbltig sumo of those phonnmona
In tbo Part* Cosmos, th, naturalist, K
liertebar, snys:
"J sense Is d-fined by the action of a
certain escltunt ua the organs, followed by
a phenomenon of consciousness difficult to
define.
"Vision 1s tbe action of light on the eye
well defined surface, of analogous con
stitution in ail animals; but even when
the ey« does not exist there may still be
reaction to light, es In the earthworm.
This has been called a 'dermatopllu' »c*u
sation
"Ordinary sensitiveness to light may be
subdivided 10tp two parts a luminous aud
a chromatic sense light and color. Touch
ms similarly \m subdivided Into a eensa
lion of contact or pressure and one of
temperature. In tbe pathologic condition
known as ‘syringomyelia/ characterised by
the alteration of the gray substance of
the spinal marrow, this differentiation of
touch la ahown spontaneous!/; the ewnsa
tloiis of pain aud of tempera t lira nr# #t»l*
Ifttc'd. while that of contact remains uuef
ferted Touch should therefore he divided
Into three eubsenaes eensltlvenees to proa
sure, beet end pain.
"Along this Hue man is not always as
weU endowed ae certato animals with spe
cie sense organs; thus, the differences of
pressure In the medium where he lives
manifest themselves to him only more or
less vaguely by impressions oX well-being
<?oats.
Er/ryipe
of
lts sails
to
/Iri^toeratic;
ware inserted like so many oxekunatkoa
points nrrnnged with mafhomntk'al
ness. The royal fur was degraded by the
newly rich, and many of we women In eo
cloty had our ermine in storage for yearo*—
In fact, until the furriers decided to omit the
tails. Mrs. P. A. Valeuttuo has a stunning
opem cloak of tailless ermine trimmed with
wMe borders of the fur. to which the Sails
are Inserted. Often the little appendages
are made Into tasseMlke ornaments or lota
a sausage like chain that hauga from the
collar In front. There 1« no danger that
tailless ermine will look like cheap coney
fur (which Is from the little animal that
once lived hupplly on Couey Island), for it
cuts beautifully, whereas with the cheaper
fur graceful lines aro Impossible.
And was thorn ever such a droll procs*
•inti ns when we go to dinner parties—-
when we troop Into a house, leaving our\
carriages, one after (he other, aa wo pass
under the nwntng on our way to tho
door! Tho dinner cloaks this Fall are
gorgeous, even terrifying in design. For
proof sss Illustration C. When wo enter
a residence for 0 donee or a dinner. It Is
like a pageant representative of many sav
age tribes. Under the awning wo pass
and into the full glare of the golden light
that stream* from tho open door. For In
stance, a person “who Is up in that sort
of thing" sud who knows the nationality
of all the savage dinner cloaks wo wear,
might have a hilarious half hour watching
us as we go trooping in. First, for os
ample, will come Mrs. PnasclgU, almost de
crepit, who swears off on her nge (we ea»
swear off and about anything we choooo
In society) every chance she gets. Hhe has
« gorgeous evening cloak made of bright
yellow, tho Emperor’s color In China,
snd only permissible for those not of royal
blood when over seventy or Is it eighty
In nge? Well, st any rate, she is only
n hit below the seventy mark. Then will
come that pitifully thin Miss Wllhelmlna
Boen-Fharpedgee flier father is of an old
family from The Hague), who will go
striding along In a Moorish cloak that bag
an a hays, a gorgeous sort of vest. Cholly
laughed so when ha explained to ms, with
on# eye ou Wllheltnlna, as we hurried !«,
that a fat, aristocratic Moorish woman al
ways wtddles Ilka a duck to prove that she
cannot work for a living. Then the gor>
geous mandarin Jackets I One really ex
pects to see tho Queen of Mhel»a carried la
on a palanquin and bringing up the rear.
But Cholly says that I in my South Ameri
can poncho make a ooncluatou dazzling
enough for a grand opera parade.
or discomfort; while the fish, provided
with a swimming bladder, feela eo precis#
a sensation, when obliged to rise or sink
In the water, that he Is enabled to return#
his normal position by tbe action of thl#
organ.
"On tbe other hand, In certain oreanl#
cephalopoda, there have been found, on the
rnudnl fin, special eye a with opaque lens##,
organa adapted to th# perception of heat
rays
"Senses simply differentiated in man may
lie found isolated tn animals. The sensa
tions of hunger, thirst, the reartlcm of the
blood on the brain cslla, alto constitute a»ip
plornentery senses; such, too, Is tbe muscu
lar sens# thst glv«-s the Impression of
wdght find the sene# that furnishes an Idea
of the shape of bodice.
"As r* gurda hearing, even When there ts
no auditive sense, there may exist a sensi
bility to vibration, residing In the bones.
Ibis la v«ry deibate In fish and In certain
worms
"Among special organs of sensation in
animals we may not# th# homy bulbs along
tbe nervurea of mosquitoes, for Indicating
tbe periodicity of whig movements, and the
organ In whl< h r* sides the sense of vcrtl
< silly tn the un-doan n sort of pendulum
who#*- contact with on# aid# or the other of
ths cavity In whlrb it hangs betrays so in
clination from the normal uprlgb* posture.
"It,ls also a ‘sixth sense' that informs an
animal of Its movements by means of ths
displacement of fluid In the semicircular
( finals of the ear. This la th# cause In man
of the dizziness due to rotation ; when w#
•top turning wh secro to be turning In tbs
opposite direction because th« loertta of this
fluid maintains It in motion. This phenom
enon do«-« not exist In dens mutes."
ft has been said that the form of nausea
known as s#a sickness la caused by the con
stant agitation of this fluid tn a recap taels
so close to the brain during th# victim’s
constant effort to maintain a vertical posi
tion-'-the "kenae" of vertically btfty.f alaa
located In these canals, aud therefore see aw
ing to be really a true "sixth sens#.**