Newspaper Page Text
Imii fiintlifmirc, x;. rnilii i ink'iij
iiivii *imnhiiiii ij if i if i iii ■iii£ fmi
cia aif ill ihjii ii iiiftiiii m flji »'iigjj ■■■»
H v i iimiiH liiw ni
•ii m iii si ii »5 *! ■“!! «"J!g *s!!' « - ! z I '!!
JSM f jjwi um M ¥’ f I i! 1
Dressmakers Disagree.
jHope for flipy figure,
four styl? s from
IL/Tpiel? to Qtyoose.
Draped Julie.
WHEN doctors disagree, alas for the
patient! When dressmakers dis
agree, hurrah for the customer!
Thus say we all of us who have any de
gree of cleverness, for when the dress
makers disagree there Is hope for auy
figure.
And both big authorities and little au
thorities disagree this season. Paquln has
declared himself In opposition to the close
ly fitting directolre model and upholds the
graceful empire style.
Even Elizabeth White (and no one can
call her n little authority in either mean
ing of the word) says that disagreement
t-xlsts. She gives us permission, we poor
worms of the Four Hundred, whom she
Imagines are fairly writhing In our sheath
gowns, to take advantage of the disagree
ment and wear what we choose. Now
she is on the lecture platform spreading
the glad Ridings In many cities. She gives
advice authoritatively and buoyantly to all
the timid little dressmakers born with pins
In their mouths instead of a silver spoon.
The poor lady who weighs so much that
her heart is heavy, too, Is now feeling
more cheerful. In an empire gown, so
she Imagines, no one may know the true
girth of her wnist, but soniehow every one
does know w hen a woman wears an empire
model Just how much waist there is below-
Mrs. Willie K. Vanderbilt, Sr., always
bends over In a manner most graceful
when she enters her box at the opern.
Her gown may be of a rather loose empire
style, but somehow the entrancing lines
below are seen, even by people without the
eye that has an X-ray keenness. Hut
every time lovely Mrs. Willie finds an ex
cuse for that graceful stoop, adorable crea.
tuie thong* she Is, Cholly eternally keeps
bis open! glasses focussed on young Mrs.
Vw I
jEjfi *7
J «y %
(r \
IS &M|7/
wtksm/
\ / y§£&V’7
Cortel.u* VsnderMß. Jr, •*» <v*r» ■ b
• •toniiifi'* iletnoml ornament In the back
rs b®- he&d. It It i band. the ®ad* of
which ll# Mint abort her ears tod In back
fn her wits hair, bang wl* tarla-shaped
•llamoml ornaments giadastlng to Icnrb.
\Vh*fu ant* t*.ro« hor sLuulde.* blade* to
kb# audio: rd tLtj cam *•• «U th-.*** orus-
«&3ninr iriniP'iK i w
iii iiii if isi [w
JILJUILILC Ji 'Mllr T ▼
f «r i
agF .^r
i -*rl
/ vw
* ISk
\ !• I V '\
ASy hi JuYyk
f/ VTj A \Je/ /°// r
NLfppT J jW*) <=
W Jm* c
ff'i »/; OV’
■'W I/M
I f m
R | fjfflj
mi
A /jymffA JM m >yl
Hi
m#nfa. T think she I# an shrewd. for be
tween the nets etiquette dictate* that ou®
must turn one's back to the opera glass
battalion—just when they and ibe re
porters art* counting the pearls
eaoh spike of one's tlaia. You kn-4 ¥ 1
have u crown exactly like that of Mrs.
John R. Drexel; the pearls ran be un
screwed and sky blue Persian turquoise
Insert'd | just went to bed anti fried
end cried, and stayed there two weeks
(tb« way my aunt did when she wanted
a sealskin sacqne: we are nil so delight
fully feminine In our family) until Cbolly
bought me n fcrewnble (lain. Our house
was at sixes and sevens, and be had some
dinners to give for brokers from Londifn—
those Jolly chappies who give th** Ameri
ca a women such good tips about the mar
ket Instead of useless compliments.
Hut bow 1 run on! So. back to gowns!
I must tell you that besides the empire
tsee the Illustration c and read description)
you may weir a pure princesae model, the
empire and princes sc model combined, or
the startling dlrectolre, which Is modified
or unmodified, modest or immodest, ac
cording to your moral# and your figure.
You have four styles from which to choose.
Why. you know, my friend. Miss IJetsy
Brownfsce, with whom Cbolly and 1 recent
ly went shopping? Bless your hearts! All
> >'i girlies who delight In a short dancing
fr -'k fluffy at the hem and that Is closely
fitting and Imagine It will be out of style!
Why Betsy, Jiwt the other day, bought the
most bewitching prlucesse gown for evening
that 1 ever saw. It U embroidered in opal
•*< ent paillettes w ith silver flashing here
sod there, and from one of those little
boleros hangs a long fringe of pure crystals.
It Is something Ilk® a princess# gowo that
Mrs. Alfred Wagstaff wore, when, s#
Blanche Shoemaker, she weut to her first
big dance. It was covered with dull Ivor/ 1
like spangles; she looked like « snow queen
tha uigbt.
Aud take tl® case of blithesome lit Us
frt.mf |
1 * ■
S' wf
I T. I f
i
i /#;/ f 1 f\
\ Hfkmd nit#*
nvvi^iii
S I \ ' wms^^wAl
i wjbm m
Orii m
iff yi iii < < . ly/if \|i j
\\ -IV ‘ mil \l v
A Directolre Evening Gown witfi While Chiffon Underdrew Having Silver Spangle*,
and a Plastron 1 leavily Embroidered with Old Blue and Crern Brightened with Sil
ver. Over the Chiffon There Are Draperies of Black Mouwrltne de Sene or Tulle.
B A G rlish Evening Frock with Skirt Having Three Lace Flounce* and Garlanded with
Artificial f ink Hoses, Similar Flower* Forming the Cor*age Bouquet. ,
C—An Evening Gown. Empire in Style, of Ro.e Colored Sntin Trimmed will, L.urel
Lenve. and Grecian Key in Gold, a Long Gold Chain Circling W.t.l and Frdling
at Left Side. Ro.e-Colored Mouwelinc de Soie Drape, the Left Shoulder end Form,
the Left Sleeve.
D-A Directoire Co.tume with Skirt of While Mou.wline de Soie ffe.vily Embroidered
with Wide Tulle Dreper.e. of Egg-Plant Color end Left Sleeve of Embroidered
Tulle from Which Hang, Teuel of R.ch Re,l o, Egg Plant Color. Gernel, Are Set
m Embroideries end in Ornament, to Which Teuel. Are Attached.
E_A Satin Gown P.le Pink i„ Color end Prince.,e-F.mpire in Model. Cemeo CirdW
fang, from H,gh Went end the Cameo Shoulder Strap. Are Set with D.amond.,
Pauline Fredericks, the actress Very few
of her gowns will lie dlrectolre In style.
One will he of mlgnonette-green satin with
a tunic or overskirt that has a long silk
fringe. Another of "London smoke" tulle
Is only slightly dlrectolre In lines. Raul-
Ine’s sweet face will rise above the "Loudon
smoke" like a red rose that lifts ita head
above on English fog. Cbolly think Paul
ine Is lovely, too; !**r I'm n*‘ a bit jealous
--only of that flirty Polly de Peyster, who
Is coming home from Ireland next week. Hba
has been wearing abroad so I beard from
a friend a gorge*,Greek gown of flame
color touched with gold Really. If Wholly
la as devoted to her a* he was this Spring
recourse to divorce will be the only dlgnt
fled procedure on my port.
The empire prlne. -se models are often mis
taken for the dlrectolre models, which are,
however drnj < d frir more doselv a round
the ankles. The empire prlucesse models,
Ike many of the dlrectolre gown*. me
made of a soft, thick, lustrous satin called
drnp dlrectolre J ,*t ei«*-h a gown is the
one In Illustration E. You may read the
details the description. It was designed
abroad for Miss Alexandra Carlisle, who
played In "Th*- Mollusc " Miss f'nrlottfi
Mllson also wears a yellow satin gown of
this sort. They are ae\erely plain wltu th#
trlmn Inir only on the shoulders or above
the waist. Miss Cnrilale's costume was
copied by a Society girl, but she wears with
It s girdie of cameo# clasping the body
below the bust and falling In long tttds to
th® Ipiees With this sh« wears cameo
bracelets.
The c#meos were worn In Trance during
tbs Idrectolrs period that followed tbs wild
day* of the Revolution, and also biter duf-
Ul * ,h( ; ( 'onanist# and the Empire period,
after Nap« leon, who was of the Consulate,
ind irisen in „u his glory and power
The*,. th,, will , 0 rlnsp
'"•"'ll'l'rlntt lu,l, kowdi of th# uirac-
Ul,r " [-•rln.i thl, n, will *lv- -lupin*-
T-nt to -urr.-n-utt-r,. who h «v- riot „r«-.
'I-'I tholr .rt tor full* r „ r ,
N"oo of th«. Toiintt-r m»n among th- J-w-l
--utMl<>r,tnn,| th- work, no th- gmylo-.nl.
I "‘“y |, " r nmnjr ton th-r. »■. ||f
'lp or no work for -iirii-o ,„tt-r«
Th- ,tlr-tolr- gown, will, of -our*.,
,h : “on of th. »«.*on. Tull. nll ,|
c, ffo,, Will ,w»th. th- flgurn no,I tb-r.
wll. h- f-w Dying -nig. Mr.. lt-gl„,iD
».na*rhllt hn. „ ,tunning rtlr—tolr
lug g ,w„ „f hl.ek net Inhl ov« r .. t t„ „t
r—li.-. -gg blur, and Mr.. Arthur H-ott
.'l.'" h *" " 'e—lan gown nt hl.-k antln
«ith Dam- colored Urni-rl-. Dying from
th- ahouhl-r, It will In droll, howev.r,
If —otii— of tit- girl, in th- Four Hundred
d—ld- t , ndo|,t th« dlrwtolr- atglra. Ho
tunny ,f our tall "Am-rl-.n 11-.utl-,-
■l> f—t high and two f—t Dnt v-ry Dnt
on th- Doo, Jnnt plrtur. on- of th»lr
»llpp-r-d f—t -merging from a lull, gown,
for they »r- abort on one »ld- (th- frock,,
1 m-nri, and h«v« a lon* aldo troll or trnlri
of tulle, ar It wurt—ot, aa It will ha.
rather.
We are all terribly exrfted over our
evening gowns for Hsrnmerstein opera be
glria on .November 1), and we shall rush
Into town to glv® him support. "Prlneess
All e,' Mrs Nicholas l»ugworth, was buy
ing dlrectolre evening gowns at mu estab
lishment ou Eiftb svvuum as ®arly as uii4-
Pii?K *sl?iffo9 ip U/ays.
ip (larlapdj dsed to <src>ss
Slits ip 3kirts apd Jueked Ipto
Shoulder Butterflies of
Prip(;ess Qou/ps ip pas^iop.
U/ild Qrape-l/ipes U/orp ip ttye flair.
August! We are all crazy about the now
tulle gowns, and are nil having the most
extreme models made on the sly. Those
who are brave na well ns beauteous will
essay them first. Certainly "the Empress
Josephine," who is Mrs. H. A. C. Taylor,
vill adhere to the Rmpfre style.
In I’aris both the Americans and the
Parisians have already worn the gowns of
tulle. At an evening garden party, for
example, In floated a fascinating creature
In n costume of silver moonlight satin,
over which pale gray tulle was draped
and knotted, swathing the bust and both
hips and knees very tightly. There were
knots on the shoulder, on the hips and on
one ankle, the skirt being raised so that a
silver slipper showed. At the other side
the gown ended In a long trail of tulle,
nun one arm was draped with the tulle
whilo the other was hare. Diamonds,
cameos and pearls are used to catch tho
draperies. The tulle is really “tucked" to
the satin by the yard. In seldom sewed to
get her, and never hemmed.
No wonder we are all so exalted In re
gird to the gowns on the first opera night.
Of course, at the first llammerstelu bight,
the Directolre gowns will ho mild experl
meats. When wo appear at the other
house, the Metropolitan, where the dla
iiioml horseshoe circle, composed of tho
parterre boxes, makes u show unsurpassed.
•be true American attitude toward the
Dlrectolre gown* will l#e revealed
On figure b tJiere l« # sinuous arrange
meot of a very wide scarf the scarf we
dis'-iissed several weeks ago mid In fig
tire A you see the lines of the mii'’h dls
cussed Dlrertolr* style.
lor the debutantes who must be de
mure Instend of daring, no matter what
their natural Inclinations are, there are
dainty lac,, gowns trimmed with gsrlands
or roses much like the pretty frock in
illustration |j. Other sweet, simple dine
lug dresses are made of painted chiffons
that have pig pink roses through wbl h
run love-knots and rlbtems of baby blue.
(tn others there sre Immense purple sad
yellow orchids arid often there are hla k
polka dot# arranged jn pyramids circling
tbs hern and rising In print* surrounded
by the gay flowers.
Artificial roses will again tie used to
dee*,rate ball gowns but, while | think of
It. b# sure to wear wild grapes In your
hair. Mrs. Edmund L. Hsyllss has large
pink roses circling the collars of her opera
clonk every year, and they are ntso used
ns a trimming on her gowns. They are
snuggled Into tho white tulle wings that
stand out on each of her shoulders (she
sits higher than any other woman at the
opera). When a satin skirt Is silt or
slashed in several places, the Interstices
of lace or tulle will he crossed by u floral
j
chain made of large full blown rosea, be
ginning with three at the top and Incress
Ing In number ns the slash widens toward
the hem.
The grapes you must wear In your hair
because they are historically correct, but
be auto to uak every now and then "Is my
wreath on straight?" for the wild grape
head dress. If It get# a bit crooked, will
give you a rakish look like that of a Bac
chante. The grapes are metallic, and In
shade# of pale gold, red broßS# and purple
mingled. In the merry mad days of
France, when they wore the «tyfes w» ant
now adopting, a sister of Bonaparte sp
pcs red at a hall with her hair bound with
narrow strips of tiger skin, while hugs
hunches of gold grapes stood out on each
side of her head Mhe wore a girdle of
gold set with cameos. Madame Tnlllen, «
lively lady of the long ago (you remember
the Tullien toque I referred to recently)
once wore a gown whose diaphanous drap
eries were arranged Ilk* those on a statue
of I'hldlas. Now she was one of the Mer
vellleuses the wonderful ones who fol
lowed the sdvlce of the great artists then
living slid adopted the dress of tha
Romans and Greeks Madame Talllen al
ways wore sandals and never had any
stockings to darn. Every one of her toes
bad Its Jeweled ring Ho now this Winter,
when you see things named Talllen for
sal® In the stores, you will know what it
means 'I tie faeroyahlea were women
of Hie same period (dlrectolre,
who wore suHa like those of the soldiers,
and their Ideas In dress are now seen in
our out door costumes those consisting of
jacket and skirt.
A long winding scarf of chiffon will be a
poetic ncei-asory t*» the evening gown. On
some of these nt each end there Is s mam
moth black butterfly measuring a full yard
from the tip of one wing to the other.
In btt' k on som# of the gowns the corsage
la cut so shot kingly low that the ahouldar
blade* of the angular woman will he wlng
llke in effect. Flesh-colored tulle outlines
the corsage and the result at flrat glance
fairly takes one’s breath nwny, for the
gown appears to be cut out twice ns much
as It actually Is. Then I must not forget
to tell you that there are heathenish em
broideries. both Egyptian and Byzantine,
nil of gorgeous colors, hut used rather spar
Ingly, For Instance, if you have an even
ing gown cut out V-shaped, the little mod
esty piece at the bottom of the V should
be of gorgeous embroidery. The other day
I saw a primrose satin with barbaric em
broideries of massive gold and silver; also
an emerald green tulle veiled In chlfTon
with a coat of sparkling Jet. and a copper
colored chlflTon laid over satin and from the
bust all around hung a fringe of crystals
(hat fell to the ankles.
One can manage, however, on but little
money, to be dainty, even dangerous, when
one goes to n hall. There are sweet little
frocks of coarse white net, trimmed only
with wide hands of soutache braid applied
In graceful designs.
And say, did you ever hear of that won
derful gow n worn by a Southern belle dur
ing the war? Hhe was awfully poor, so
while tarieton was her only ‘•wear.’’ Ml is
was going to a moonlight garden party
where there was to be a dance on the
lawn, and she longed to look lovely, so
what do you think she did? Aided by her
mammy, she went out and caught basket
fuls of lightning bugs, or ns some people
call them, fire files. Then Into the tvlde
flounces, mud** of white tarieton doubled,
handfuls of (Ire flies were sewed by the
chuckling mammy. That night when the
Pretty girl danced on the lawn, she needed
no spangles, nor any diamonds, for the
fireflies flashed through the tarieton and
no one received so many glances. I read
nil ah >ut it in a honk by my friend,
Amelte Hives, and she told me confidential
ly that this gown was a fact, not fabrica
tion on her pnrt. If Cholly proves stingy
I’ll have to think of Just such ways to tlx
up niy frocks.
Hut Just the same there will be no fire,
flies on inel
Cnlln llllles will be worn In the hair and
also ns corsage bouquets. It was Miss
Edith Deacon who started this fad In New
York. Perhaps she knew of a historical
reason, but tills I can not find. Every
where she goes, one sees her with three
Miff callo Hl)lei, with long, straight stems
standing upright and thrust Into the cor
sage. If her tears should fall they would
drop right Into the calla lily cups. Mrs.
Benjamin Oulnness (she was Bridget Hulk
ley, of Ireland), also wears three stiff rails
llllles as a corsage bouquet ylth her even
ing gown Hhe is one of Mrs John Jacob
Astoi’* chums, so calls lilies are correct.
Definitions.
Many children are ho crammed with
everything Hist they really know noth
ing.
In proof «*f this, rend these veritable
specimens of definitions, written by pub
lic school children:
"Stability la taking care of a stable. **
"A mosquito la thn child of black and
white parenty."
'♦Monastery Is the place for monsters. *•
"Tocsin la something to do with get
ting drunk. ’*
"Expostulation Js to have Hie ninnll
pog.”
"Cannibal Is twoj brothers rho kill
each other In the Bible "
"Anatomy la the human body, which
consists of three parts; the head, the
chlst and the stummlck The head con
tains the eyes an«J brains. If uny. Tha
chlst contains the lungs and piece of the
liver. The stummlck Is devoted to ths
bowels, of which there are five, a, ®, I, o,
u, ami sometimes w arid y."- New shook.
India's I'rrcious Metals.
It Is estimated that $1,1)00,000, Odd
In gold, and perhaps as much In silver,
l„ hidden away in the Hindu stocking.
Vast quantities of the precious metal®
are known to be kept In the form of
personal ornaments. From time ImiriM
iijoiliil India has been n reservoir Into
which the precious metals bsv® flowed
from ail quarters of the globe, only to
disappear from ststlatlcs. Could th® Idlt
wealth be drawn upon, the effect on Hit
Industrial and commercial life of th#
country would be very great. It la,
therefore, a matter of concern to try to
turn India a dormant capital to active
use It mav be linposalble to do It. The
Oriental mind vtewe everything In a way
incomprehensible to Westerners But If
only a tithe of the concealed hoards of
India were vitalised a new aspect might
be given to Hie conditions of life In Eng
land's great Eastern Empire Baltimore
Hun.
An Old -Story.
"Hh* fella me that theirs Is a platonta
love. What does that mean, hubby?"
"Means Hist w**‘ll have to dig up for n
wedding present tn shout two mouths."-*
Louisvlii® Courier*Journal.
A Subtle f lint,
"Jimmie, your face Is dirty sgnln ftitn
morning," cxclelmed th® teacher. "Whet
would you sny If I cam® 1o school every
day with a dirty face?" "Hub," grunted
Jlmml®, "I'd »*e too perlite to say any
thing" Th® Circle,
