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The Latest Modes.
fmphe emue is the newest shade
ink. a
ig silk gloves of pale sage green
ry fashionable.
low linen lace trims many of the
Spring bonnets. The patterns are
(hick, raised figures, resembling
ire laee in design.
I wly imported silk hose, showing
some shades of dark wine color or
are embroidered over the instep
jale yellow butterflies,
new Alpine hat called the Mon-
irde, with high peaked crown
load brim shading the eyes, is to
' very popular chapeau at the sea-
this summer.
Sumatra straw is a new braid which
L the appearance of heavy canvas,
id is of a soft shade of beige or buff.
iis new fiber is quite as popular as
tanilla or Belgian straw.
[AH dressy bodices for young ladies
laced at tbe back ; they open in a
hare or heart-shape in front, and are
dually bordered with lace, embroi-
r, or beaded applique bands.
>ur different materials, harmoniz-
|in color and effect, are sometimes
upon new French wraps. Two
Urials at least are used, and few
ide garments are exhibited which
hade wholly of one fabric.
1 lish traveling costumes are ex-
\d, made of Vigogne of a dark
Ad color, a neutral shade of beige,
silver gray, with waistcoat,
cuffs, and bias band for the
lade of plush of a contrasting
|dner silks of light texture are
fshown with groundworks of
claret, moss-green, marine-blue,
Fgolden-brown, with haudsomely-
Juted designs of birds and flowers
I ted in natural eolors upon their
race.
taw silk in Roman plaided designs,
png artistic combination of color
inch used for children’s and
misses’ spring costumes. Some
mdsomest of these are made
conjunction with dark myrtle-
Fn velvet.
re gypsie bonnets of Tuscan
1 domed with placques of cream-
Spanish lace, nodding ostrich-
iale willow-green, and bunches
ik oleander blossoms are novel
|pretty. The brim inside is faced
pale pink surah veiled with
iiih lace.
ivorite artistic combinations of
are pale green and silver, tur-
» e-blue and violet, copper-red and
yke-brown, fawn-color with gold,
jreen with heliotrope and silver,
with coral-pink, sapphire-blue
amber, amber willow green, and
srcup-yellow with black or Vene-
[-red.
fsiping Reports of Fashion-
jle ijpibles for the Fair.
k^his season, there seems to
EyTe of dress which seems to be
[ding one, so that one may wear
ccords with her particular style
[jy. This is bsst seen by study-
je representative toilets which
[fresh from Paris, or from the
our American modistes. To
’lashion, then, seems to be an
[matter. One moment we notice
fcuine severely plain, with narrow
id long, straight sr sh or pelisse,
->ve it with but little “raping,
ie next attention is attracted
5ilet resplendent in sliirrings,
lngs, and plaitings, with wide
liers and full scarf draperies so
iminous as to defy all artistic,
indary lines. The little cap bonnet
ruite as much the vogue as the large
rnsborough hat, A short visite,
jian,coat, cape or barque, is as fasli-
"" as the long clinging mantle.
Fcrinoline or no crinoline as you
Be. You can wear your hair high
mfled, waved, braided, banged
Montague, cut short, or combed
5wn fiat over the temples a la Mrs.
iyes, and be still in fashion. Every-
[ng seasonable that one is likely to
re in her possession can, just at
ksent, be worn without the fear of
eclal notice, exbfcpt perhaps a one-
itton gl^s^mjue is a larger choice
hats Home the
covered like
the beaded lace
over the face- They are
Fben’t into three cornered form,
[arlborough is a large flat shape,
^lightly on one sidejof the head,
singularly becoming; it is made
and Tuscan straw, and is
|id with loiuMjutded feather
Lf thejmU^^^Htraw is us
has a square crown. The new straw
bonnets are light in weight, the braids
are narrow, fine, and shine like satin.
Besides cream, white and ecru, they
are dyed green, garnet, black and blue,
and in many instances the straw will
match the costume in color. The
newest veils are real lace, with bor
ders a 1 in one piece, and others have
straight borders and spots. A pretty
style of bonnet has a row of flowers in
front, and another forming a curtain,
over which falls jetted lace. Both
rows are placed underneath the straw.
Large steel, jet, and iridescent beads
are now dotted over the flat crowned
bonnets, which have a cluster of feath
ers and an aigrette on the left side.
Moire ribbon is used mostly for bon
nets. Tneie is a piretty new watered
ribbon, which has single rosebuds
scattered all over, or else a narrow
bordering of them on both sides.
For young girls of fourteen or fifteen,
pleated skirts, either in kilting or box
plaiting,[are used for general occasions,
and flounces and bouillonea for party
dresses. A costume of silver grey
woolen material has the skirt covered
with two wide yleatings, the long
polonaise being open front and turned
back with grenat moire revers to a
little below the waist. The polonaise
is double breasted, with two rows of
silver buttons, a narrow scarf of grey
su v ah being loosely draped on the
hips and fixed in front with a moire
bow. The upper part of tbe corsage is
cut out square and filled with a plai
ted chemisette of suran ; facings and
collar of grenat moire completed the
costume. For little girls under thir
teen the polonaise and redingote are
found to suit better than anything
else. The back drapery is often sus
tained by a small tournure made of
whalebone to draw the dress behind,
and to make the front hang well, it
is not very comfortable for children,
and if used at all should be small.
Kilt skirts are still popular because
they show most materials to the best
advantage; there are so many striped
goods which would be inadmissible
were it not for the toning down of
tints by the use of kilt plaitings,
which conceal the brilliancy of the
coloring, and add to the pictures
queness of the whole by showing
brilliant dashes of color, without
making the costume at all conspi
cuous.
“Jumbo Souvenior,” is the name of
a new bracelet brought out for young
people. It is of the snake pattern,
coiling two or three times round the
arm, and is made of the hair of ele
phants’ tails, braided in a light open
tress, finished off at one end w 7 ith a
snake’s head in silver, with emerald
or ruby eyes, and at the other with
silver tail. From the tail is suspended
a miniature silver elephant, and it is
this ornament which gives the name
to this bracelet.
Scraps of Humor.
It takes several scruples to make a
dram, and yet there are men win can
toke a dram with out a scruple.
Douglas Jerrold said savagely:
“Truth is like gold, people manage to
make a little of it go a long way.’’
“Jane,” he said, “I think if you
lifted your feet from the lire we might
have some heat in the room.” And
they bad not been married long.
Washington scene: Deep-voiced
guzzler—“Hi, waiter! bring me t'«ree
more schooners!” Awestruck sp?cta-
tors, whispering— “ That must be the
new secretary of the navy.”
A little girl, who had been to a chil
dren’s party, being asked by her
mother on returning how she enjoyed
herself, answered, “I am full of happi
ness. I couldn’t be happier unless I
were to grow.”
“Grandpa, the sun is brighter in
summer than in winter, is it not ?”
“Yes, and it's warmer and enjoys bet
ter health.” “Why does it enjoy bet
ter health?” “Because it gets up
earlier.”
Bo sad: A pretty girl in Sweden
turned up her nose at her poor but de
serving lover and it froze in that posi
tion. Now she doesn’t know whether
to retire frmn the world or hire out to
stand in swiebody’s hall as a hatrack.
A traveler who had just read on the
The Wail of a Banner-bearer.
Well, what if I am only a banner-
bearer? You let me get a “speaking
part,” as soots me, that’s all. Oh—it
“would be all,” eh ? Why—but, there!
you’re a baby in the purfession ! you
are ! When you’ve been a Capting of
the Guard,, and Third Noble, and a
Bandit Keerousin, and First Hancient
Bard, and fourth in the Council of Ten
what listens toOthfeller,and intheMob
in the Capital, and a Harcher of Msrry
England, and a Peer of France, what
doesn’t speak, but has to look as if he
could say a lot; when you’ve been all
this, you may talk ! Why, I should
like to know where they’d be without
us—all them old sproutin’ tragedy
merchants. They’d have no armies,
consequently they eouldn’t rave at
’em, and lead ’em on to victory and
things. They wouldn’t ’ave no sen
nits, so they’d ’ave to cut ©ut their
potent, grave and reverent senoirs—an’
that ’ud worry ’em. They wouldn’t
’ave no hexcited citizens, and so they
couldn’t bury old Ceser nor praise him
neither. They couldn’t strew no fields
with no dead soldiers. They’d 'ave
nobody to chivy ’em when they come
to the throne, or return’d from the
wars. They couldn’t ’ave no perces-
sions; as for balls, and parties, and
tornemongs, why, they couldn’t give
’em. And where ’ud they often be
without the “distant ollerings” behind
ilie scenes, alius a-comin’ nerer and
louder. Why, I remember a ’eavy
lead one night, as had insulted his
army fearful, at rebersal; he stops sud
den, and thumps his brestplate, and
says, “ ’Ark, that toomuit,” when
there warntno more toomuit than two
flies’ud make in a milk-jug. We jest
cut off his toomuit, and quered his
picth in a minnit, for the laugh come
In ’ot. Wer’re just as much wanted as
they are, make no error.
What do you say ? They could do
without mein the modden drarmer?
The modden drarmer, my boy, ain’t
actin’ ! It’s nothing but “eufl-shoot-
in’.” You just has to stand against
a mankel-shelf, with your hands in
Poole’s pockets, and say nothing, eler-
gantly. You don’t want no chest-
notes ; you don’t want no action ; you
don’t want no exsitement; you don’t
want no lungs, no heart and no brain ;
only lungs an’ soda, heart an’ potash,
brain an’ selzer. Everything’s diloot-
ed, my boy, for the modden drarmer;
and the old school, an’ the old kos-
tumes ’ud bust the sides and roof too
of the swell bandboxes, where they
does the new school and the new kos-
tumes. P’raps I’m right? Of course
I’m right; and I’m in earnest, too!
Why, my boy, if they was to offer me
an engagement as a “guest,” in one
of them cuff-shooten’ plays, and ask
me to go on in evening dress, I’m
blest if I wouldn’t “throw up the
part.” Trousers and white ties cramp
me. I wants a suit o’ mail an’ a
’alberd ; a toonic, and my legs free;
a dagger in my teeth, a battle-axe in
my ’and. I likes to be led to victory.
I like.! to storm castles and trample on
the foe. I likes to hang our banners
the outward walls. I’m a born
and Ophelias, and other sufferin’ par
ties, as I’ve often forgot my hexits and
been fined a tanner ; and if that ain’t
actin’, I should like to know what is.
Have to do as the “stars” tell us?
Well, of course we does, only if the
stars don’t treat us like gentlemen, we
know- how to queer their pitches;
rather! Why, it ain’t so very long
since I was a-playin’ a Roman Lictor
in “Virginius,” and when we was a
rehersin’ of it, ’im as played Happyus
Clordyus called me a “#ig.” “All
right,” says I, “aside” like. Accordin’
when night come, and he makes a exit
in the third act, and says—didn’t he
enjoy hisself with it—“And I shall
surely see that they reseve it!” he
chucks his toger over his right
shoulder, and turns round as mage-
stick as a beadle to walk off—well,
some’ow, just then I drops my bundle
ot sticks (“fusses,” they calls ’em), all
accidentle like, and Happyus Clordyus
with his heye3 in the hair, comes to
grief, slap over ’em. He was the
unhappyest Clordyus all through that
play as ever you see. What did he
call me a “pig” for, the idoit?
Decayed wood is also liable to spon
taneous combustion if heated some
what, At Winchester, Conn., work
men discovered smoke arising from
barren upland. The sun was exces
sively hot at the time. When they
went to seek the origin of the smoke
an old decayed hemlock log had burst
into a blaze, and was burning fiercely.
Many other curious cases are re
lated.
A gentleman on a cold, keen winter
night, retired to his sleeping room.
He had worn eilk stockings over his
woolen ones during the day. On un
dressing for bed, as he drew off his
silk stockings, he heard a sharp,crack
ling noise, put paid no special atten
tion to it. In the morning, on look
ing for his stockings, he found them
consumed to ashes, without having
set fire to the chair on which they
were laid. A workman in the Jersey
City abattoir threw off his blue blouse,
and in a short time afterwards it was
found to be on fire.
guid^post: “Dublin
thought to make game
Irishman
miles to
take to
Pat, “at
Wits
uuei
two
of a.
y asking: “Ifi
lin, Pat how lc
ere?” “Faith!
heels is as si
ire about
kies,”
ssing
two
[ill it
lrned
fas yer
judg-
banner-bearer, aud I glories in it. No,
my boy ! none of your milk-and-water
“guests” and such, for the likes of me!
An’ if I was the Lord Chambermaid,
I’d perhibit the modden drarmer alto
gether. Them’s my sentiments. If
he clon’t perhibit it, actin’ ’ull soon be
modden’d out of existence; an’ we
shall ’ave Macbeth in a two guinea
tourist suit, aud Looy the Eleventh in
nickerb ickers on a bisykel. It’s tlieold
banner beuiing school as got us all our
big actors, m’ it stands to reason, my
boy ; lor a cove can’t spred hisself in a
frock coat and droring-room lanwidge.
They’re both on ’em too tame for what
I calls real actin’. What! you have
heard say as us banner-bearers don’t
act—was only machines ? Well, some
on us don’t, p’raps, but some on us
does, and uo mistake.
Why, I’ve been that work’d on
when I’ve seen Joan o’ Hark goin’ in
a perisher at the stake, au’ matin’
that last dyin’speech and confession
of hers, that I’ve felt a real ’art beat
against my property brestplate, aud
felt real tears a tricklin’ down to my
false beard. I’ve been so struck with
admirashun for some O..hellos that
when they’ve been a addressln’ of me
as the sennet, I’ve felt as dignerfled as
if I’d been the Doag of Venice hisself,
and I bet I look’d it.
As for patiietlsm, there isn’t a man
living as has died for his country-
willing, mind you—so often as I have;
and I’ve strewed many a bloody field
of batH with a ernest corpse, I have.
An’ as far as regards simperthy, it’s
stood in my way, for I’ve been that
upset by Queen Katherines and
ince Arthurs, aud even old Shylook
ano do<
Spontaneous Combustion.
It has been known for a long tim
that things have burnt up without
any one setting them on fire, and
much thought has been expended to
find out the reason.
Among the substances subject to
spontaneous combustion is pulverized
charcoal. A load was delivered in an
out-liouse of a clergyman in Leipsic;
the door by accident w r as left open,
and the wind blew sprinklings of
snow on the charcoal. This caused
the charcoal to ignite, and as the day
was windy the whole range of build
ings was burned to ashes. The same
thing will take place with ashes from
wood. Sometimes these are stored in
barrels or boxes, and if they are acci
dently wet ignition takes place. This
is the cause of mysterious fires in cel
lars in rural districts.
A gentleman had been having his
house painted, and one night the pain
ters left their working pants, their
pots and their brushes on the aspbal-
tum floor of the cellar. They had
previously with a bunch of rags re
moved from their hands with spirits
of turpentine the paint with which
they were soiled. The ball ©f rags
took fire, the pants and paint pots
followed, and the house was burned to
the ground. It was a wild winter
night, and the family barely escaped
with their lives. #
In the carriage factory of Messrs.
Eaton & Gilbert, Troy, New York, a
drop of linseed oil was seen to fall into
an open paper of lampblack. It set it
on fire, and came near, for many com
bustibles were close by, burning down
the whole gr< at factory.
In several instances oilcloth in large
rolls has taken fire in damp weather.
A planter :n Virginias ent liis servant
to Fredericksburg for a roll of oilcloth.
It was a warm day and the wagon was
open. During the journey home it
began to rain, aud the roll of oilcloth
took fire on the load. Auother in
stance occurred in Philadelphia. An
order from the War Department came
for knapsacks for a regiment. The
sacks were all finished aud collected,
and counted over and left in a pile in
the paint shop about ten o’clock on
Saturday night, so as to tie sent to
Washington by cars early on Monday
morning. On entering the paint
shop before daylight on Monday morn
ing uo knapsacks were to be found.
In their place was nothing but a heap
of smouldering ashes!
Newly pressed hay frequently ig
nites, as does also oatmeal and corn-
meal in barrels. During the famine
in Ireland in 1847—48 a vessel was dis
patched from New York with a cargo
of cornmetl for the relief of the suf
ferers. In discharging the bags from
the vessel the last three were found to
be on fire.
The American Journal of Science
gives a remarkable instance of the
spontaneous combustion ot wood. A
gentleman, two years previous to the
occurrence, received a piece of wood
supposed to be cedar, detached from a
large piece dug ub thirty-nine feet be
low the surface near Lancaster, Penn.
The piece weighed a few ounces, and
it was broken in two and laid upon a
white pine shelf. About four days be
fore the discovery of the fire he had
occasion to wipe the dust from the
shelf and from the piece of cedar with
a wet cloth. Three days afterward it
was discovered that the piece of wood
had ignited and combustion was pro
ceeding so rapielily that in a few min
utes the shelf would have been on
Different Species oi Oaks.
Mr. Trimble calls attention in The
Student to some of the more obvious
characteristics of the various oaks.
They are all, he says, monoecious, that
is, with sterile and fertile flowers on
the same tree, the former clustered in
slender drooping catkins, the latter in
little scaley involucres which latter be
come the cups inclosing the acorns.
As the oaks come into blossom twigs
with the flowers and partly developed
leaves should be collected and pressed,
the tree marked, and the specimens
carefully labelled. Another batch of
specimens should then be taken from
the same trees in July, when the
leaves havejfully matured, and again
another set in October with the ma
ture fruit. With these three collections
there x will be little difficulty in deter
mining the various species.
Of the annual-fruited species, the
white oak, Quercus alba, is the most
common, and is readily identified.
With this may be cum pared the less
frequent Q. obtusiloba, having the
segments of the leaf, as the name im
plies, much more obtuse or rounded.
And these again, with the still rarer
Q. bicolor, which has the under sur
face of the leaf covered with a soft
white villous pubescence, and the out
line of the leaf closely resembling that
ot the chestnut, thus forming the
transitional species to the chestnut-
oaks, which with the exception of Q.
monticola which might[easily be taken
in its younger stages fora real chesnut
tree, are not common. Of the biennial-
fruited species, probably the pin oak
Q palustris, is as distinct and fre
quent as any. It may usually be
recognized by the short branches of the
lower portion of the trunk being hori
zontal, or often drooping. The com
mon Q. rubra is easily distinguished
by its large acorns in a very shallow,
broad cup. Q. coccinea, though not
quite so common, has the acorn half
covered, or more, by the large scaley
cup. But the leaves of this species are
characteristic, having very deep,
broad sinuses, which are often wider
near the mid vein than at the margin.
It is well named the 4 Scarlet Oak,”
on account of the autumnal tint of its
leaves. What is commonly called
black oak is classed as a variety of the
last by Gray, hence the botanical name
is written Q. coccinea,variety tinctoria.
The leaves of the variety are less di
vided and larger, changing to yellow
or brown in the fall, aud the acorns
longer, more slender and tapering at
the apex. The New York student will
find all of the above varieties, together
with some others, as the large fruited
oak, Q. macrocarpa, the Turkey oak,
Q,. cerri«, and the English oak, Q.
pedunculata, well represented in Cen
tral Park.
Tardiness of the President.
A young man named Folsom BoweJ
applied to a wealthy Austin stockman]
for a position on his staff, to go Westf
and herd sheep at $10 a month
the stockman said he was not hirini
anybody to herd sheep. “Have
got all the shepherds you require?’!
agked Folsom Bower. “No: I’m need!
iug several, but I’m going to wait tilj
the President has made his appoint
ments.” “What’s that got to do witl
herding sheep ?” “It has a great d<
to do with it. As soon as Arthur
made his appointments I can hav^
pick of disappointed applicants,
will be willing to hire for nothing'
their
country.” ([Ihe *h ee P industry
suffer