Newspaper Page Text
—MAGAZINE SECTION.
PAGE SIX
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One of the new “Lucile” Panier
gowns in iron-grey draped chiffon over
dull blue, with coat and corsage of blue
taffetas.
LADY DUFF-GORDON, the famom
“Lucile" of London, and foremost cre
ator of fashions in the wodd, writes
each week the fashion article for this newspaper,
presenting all that is newest and best in styles
for well-dressed women.
Duff-Gordon's new Paris establishment
bring her into close touch with that centre of
ashion.
Lady Duff-Gordon’s American establishment
is at No. 17 West Thirty-sixth street. New
York City.
By LADY DUFF GORDON (“Lucile”)
LONG, clinging llnoa are the principal feature of the
two gowns illustrated in the sketches 1 am send
ing this week.
One of them is an afternoon gown of the new panier
type The lower part of the skirt is in iron gray draped
chiffon over dull blue, and the panier effect, the coat and
corsage, is of queer blue taffetas, with a mauve sash
around the waist. A row of buttons which fasten the
coat in front furnish the only trimming. The gown is
attractive although quite simple. The hat worn with it is
in violet with a dark gray aigrette.
The other sketch shows a semi-tailored costume in
white ellk serge, which will no doubt be much worn at
the races this season. The jacket is severely plain, ow
Ing Its distinction to its lines.
It fastens on the left side and is extremely cutaway
in effect. It shows that Paris still shows its preference
for the one-piece wrap, for the sleeves are cut in with
the body of the jacket. These sleeves, by the way, are
the new. long, narrow sleeves edged with deep ruffleV
recalling the fashions of the Directoire period. Similar
ruffles finish the neck of the jacket.
The skirt is decidedly new. The front is straight
and long The back is a draped circular effect. The
drapery is arranged just above the knees Contrary to
rumors, this skirt is very narrow at the feet and gives
the so-called hour glass figure.
There is a straight, flat girdle of white satin char
meuse with one end decorated with Persian embroidery.
The hat is typical of those worn this Spring at the
races. It is of supple straw, wide brimmed and low
crowned, having a flat feather trimming.
The photograph shows a somewhat more elaborate
creation of pink mauve chiffon over flesh color char
mouse and laces. The coat is of blue mauve taffeta
with a silver blue waistband embellished with a cameo
buckle. Worn with it is a bat of pale blue lined with
blue mauve and trimmed with wood voces and mauve
ribbon.
And now that you know all about the actual pic
tures, I want to give you just a word-picture of two
costumes which represent the different extremes of
the tailor-made models for the coming season, and
which will show you to what sensational lengths it is
possible to go. even If you restrict yourself to the coat
and skirt form of attire, which—once upon a time—
was typical of an almost severe simplicity.
First, then, please. Imagine geranium pink eponge
as fashioning a short cutaway coat, and a skirt whose
scantiness Is so extreme that w-alking is only made
pleasant and possible by its slitting up at either side
to the extent of five or six Inches. The only trimming
is a binding of self-colored braid and a few buttons of
enamel in the same vivid pink, rimmed round with
black, this one contrasting and relieving touch making
It permissible and smart to wear black stockings and
shoes, while for the further and absolutely correct
completion of the costume there must also be added
a tailor-cut shirt of white lawn, with just a looselv
knotted scarf bow of black satin to finish off the
slightly down-turned and entirely soft collar. For you
must know —and you will surely be well pleased by
the knowledge—that nowadays even the most sporting
and simple of shirts are being made with this particu
lar and becoming form of neckwear. The women who
have once realized what freedom for their throats
means both as regards comfort and charm—-having
found it so entirely Impossible to revert to the old
bondage of stiff and high collar, found that something
bad to be done to meet their wishes and thereby save
the tailor-cut shirt from practical extinction
Well. now. this is the first and simplest form of the
coat and skirt costume, while, then, on tlie other
hand. it» most striking not to sn startling, devel
opment is represented by the union of a cutaway
ititf ATLANTA GEORGIAN AND NEWS: SATURDAY, MAY 25, 1912.
T*ecent “Lucile” Creations,
Showing the Long, Clinging
Lines IDhich Distinguish
the New
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A semi-tailored ‘
costume of white iltflfflTirit-’ ■ sßrl
silk serge, cut
on severely plain
lines. The sleeves Ww I '
are of the new
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A "Lucile” creation in pink mauve chiffon over flesh color
charmeuse and laces.
Spring
Gowns
coat of white satin, with a short and
ry scar ‘-fr+ blackface clo*h.
<.ner details v ';h help to make
this contrast still more n< '>ble
are, for instance, the facing of ths
coat coll..;- with black satin and the
b. ~k bordering of the pocket flaps,
'ytieh are placed on the waist-line
eith ide, the buttonholes, too,
being all outlined with a black pip
,ng. tnd the on which figures on
•* e left-hand lapel being provided
» tl - piquant and permanent
' tpanionship of a long-stalked red
‘ As to the others which can
effect a fastening ir front they do
so in conjunction with big pearl
buttons, or would do so, that is, if
the coat were ever closed, it. being
intended, however, to be left open,
so that there may be fully displayed
all the depth and the clever drap
ing of the waist and of black satin
and all the .’aintiness of the blouse
of ivory-toned net and lace, through
whose veiling transparency there
come "alluring” glimpses of a lining
of flesh pint, chiffon and a broad
banding about the bust of bright
rose pink satin ribbon. A frill of
lace cascades down the left side,
too, and this particular and prett”
trimming is continued half way
down the skirt beside the curved
row of pearl buttons, which here
are really put to practical use. For
tire rest, the skirt is untrimmed, but
just in front it takes an upward
curve, which gives more than ,
.impse of the wearer's ankles, and
so . lakes it most desirable that the
hrniery should be of the finest and
most transparent black silk, and the
shoes of th> smartest blending of
.ack patent leather and ■white a .
Hope, their combined effect being,
• think, more fascinating on the
w s tan If high, white-topped
mots were worn.
Chamberlin=Johnson=Dußose Co.
ATLANTA NEW YORK PARIS
A Special Display of
Exquisite Undermuslins
In Honor of the June Brides
At this time when the June bride is the center
of so much kindly interest, when so many parties
and courtesies are being planned and given in her
honor, when, in her whole life the world stops to
do her homage—-is it amiss that we should catch
the spirit of the times and so arrange a special dis
play of undermuslins in her honor?
We think not. Particularly now that our ef
forts have been so fruitful, that we can show such
exquisite undermuslins, so many novelties that
have besides their newness of design the charm of
finest workmanship.
There was a time when the bride was com
pelled to spend long weeks and tedious months in
the making of her undermuslins if they were to
possess the daintiness and beauty that have ever
been the bride’s delight.
That day is past—now she may come and se
lect these most intimate garments of her trousseau
with all the pleasure that attends the sight of one
novelty after another, that is derived from the
choosing of one, the exclusion of another.
They are all here.
Bridal Sets consisting of gown and combina
tion suit of sheerest, finest batiste adorned with
laces, embroideries and ribbons in ways that
brides of other years have never known. Here
is a set that has as its trimming motif shadow
laces—on the gown, they are worked into most
exquisite pointed medallions, the corset cover of
the combination is trimmed to match, the knick
erbocker drawers have a deep flat flounce of same
lace and a new shower bouquet of ribbon roses.
Another set is an example of the beauty of real
and heavy cluny combined with French Valen
cieness and soft batiste. Its empire gown has the
fullness gathered into the finest hand made tucks.
The circular drawers of the combination show
deep inserts of the laces.
Then, there are French Hand Embroidered
Sets—that owe their beauty to the nimble fingers
of real artists. Every stitch in every seam has
been done by hand. The designs of the embroid
ery are most elaborate, but worked out in dainty,
neat, floral patterns and sprays.
Crepe de chine sets and single pieces. The
crepe de chine has the weight that warrants
beauty and service after many washings. These
are in pink, light blue and white. Hand embroid
ery is often seen; gowns with deep cream lace ja
bots, princess slips and petticoats, with wide, flat
flounces of shadow laces and combination suits
with ribbon roses that, showing the yellow pistils,
are as like to nature as could be.
But descriptions do not describe what you
will see. Come and enjoy it all in its elegance
that can only be hinted at here.
And the Bridal Corset
Let it be the “Bride’s Bon Ton.” This is of
white satin, trimmed with ribbon rosettes. It
has all the elegance that the Bon Ton people have
been able to put into this special model—and for
her negligee wear is a boneless corset of tricot or
linen mesh.
Then, there is, for this display, a group of
hand embroidered, lace trimmed brassieres from
the Estelle Mershon Shop in New York.
We have done much for the June Brides this
year! And they and all who are interested in
, beautiful undermuslins are invited to the display.