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LADY DL’FF-GORDON, the famous “Lucile” of London, and
foremost creator of fashions in the world, writes each week the
fashion article for this newspaper, presenting all that is newest
and best in styles for well-dressed women.
Lady Duff-Gordon's new Paris establishment brings her into close
touch with that centre of fashion.
Lady Duff-Gordon's American establishment is at Nos. 37 and
39 \\ est Fifty-seventh street. New York City.
By Lady Duff Gordon (“Lucile”)
A SHORT time ago I was con
fronted with a rather In
teresting problem —that ot
dressing Gaby Deslys. She rushed
into our Taris establishment In the
rue Penthioyre one day and an
nounced that she had decided to
change her manner of dressing. She
Bald that she had tired of the ex
aggerated fashions and the eccentric
clothes that the Parisian dressmak
ers had Insisted upon for her, and
that she longed for the simple
girlish things, such as 1 make for
tny clientele.
I must admit that Gaby Delays is
Just the type for my dresses. I am
constantly searching both Taris and
London for pretty young girls with
Eefcrc and After.
A SILVERY Summer moon shone
sweetly on the likewise silvery
sands.
The Summer sweethearts sat in si
lence. She was gazing up at the dim
blue vault ever them, where the little
stars twinkled in a million tiny points
of flame. He was gazing at her a* if
be d like to eat her.
“Dearie. what makes the stars
shine so dimly to-night?’’ she gurgled.
"They are outshone Ly the glorious
light of your eyes, my darling,’* he
whispered foolishly, ‘and so they paie
their splendor, and—or —and"——
He didn’t know how to go on, so he
kissed her instead. And she was quit®
satished, perfectly content, and glad.
• ••••• •
Same moon, same sands, same peo
ple—only they are married now.
•’I wonder bow many telegraph
poles, ‘ the murmured thoughtfully,
“it would take to reach from her© t©
the moon?"
He looked at her as if he’d Ilk© t 0
bile her.
“One. if it was long enough," he
snapped. "Den t ask such silly ques
tions
And a solemn silence enwrapped the
bummer night.
- C - <~\ ~(
slender, boyish lines, such as she
possesses, to serve as mannikins.
Her hair parted toward one side and
undulated so that it falls over her
ears before it is drawn into a tiny
knot at the back of her head Is per
fection for Oriental and Russian
Below, the Oriental Headdress o f Gold ’
Metal Disks Suggestive of a Ti rki.h H rem
to the Right, a Typical “Lucile” Dre ß foT ’
Girls. Pale Blue Tulle, Seed Pearl, and Rose Veh
vet Are IJsed.
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Two Original and Striking Evening
Costumes Designed Especially
for the Frenchiest of French
Comediennes, and Two Unusual
Head-Dresses Showing the
Oriental Influences of the Moment
headdress. Oh, how patiently I
have explained this simple coif
fure to my mannikins! Often
personally dressing their hair
myself In just this fashion
hoping to win them away from
puffs, curls and other curious
hair ornamentations. And thus
show to the customers the prop
er coiffure for the dress they are
exhibiting.
This time she came into our
establishment, and while we were
In the midst of all sorts of ques
tions regarding materials and de
signs for dresses, we managed to
decide upon two coiffures, both
so new and yet so attractive that
I feel sure that they will bo
copied and worn later on by mon
daines from all over the world.
The first consists of a band of
coarse white net, bound tightly
around the head and fastened in
the back. At this fastening is a
huge bird of paradise, one-half
extending upward, while the
other half of the bird droops
downward until it touches the
shoulder.
The second headdress Is de
cidedly Oriental, suggesting both
Russian and Turkish turbans,
and yet not quite like either. It
is made of very heavy gold lace
which is fashioned in
to a close fitting cap
At the back there is -.JV«
a black aigrette fan
tasle placed at a pe
cullar angle that
lends charm and originality to rhe
entire headdress. I ‘think that the
most effective touch Is given by the
hammered metal disks that hang
from the brim of the cap and fail
over the forehead and hair.
I must admit that this clever
little artiste Is not difficult to dress
—she lends herself ideally to the
costumes she wears. She can draw
herself up to the fullest height and
become serious and dignified if the
dress requires it, and she can be a
beauty such as I dream about and
The
‘Taradise*
Headdress
«
Coarse
White
Net,
with
Hugo
Bird
of
Paradise
to
Give
Height
and
Smartness.
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The “Cut-Away” Gown of Black
Velvet and Pink Liberty Satin,
with Crystal and Jet Motifs.
have In mind when I design my tea
gowns and weird color combinations
reminiscent of the Far East Some
times I am insfnred by my friend
Bakst, whose wonderful Russian col
orings are the despair and delight of
my life.
She can be the Innocent school
girl—the roguish debutante, and
again the typical girl of the boule
vards. All together she is a perfect
annikin, and, well, if she were not
Gaby Deslys, I am sure that I would
try to persuade her to come into
our designing roomj. I could make
lovely things on her. But as this is
Impossible. I have done the next
best thing in sending her forth
dressed just as I know young women
of her style and type should be
dressed. She will serve as an in
spiration to many who will see her
In these clothes and will convey to
them a message from me to the ef
fect that this is the way I would
costume them, provided they have
the same slender outlines as Made
moiselle Deslys.
One of the first dresses we decided
upon was a design after my own
heart —a pale blue tulle embroidered
in pearls and placed over the palest
rose-colored satin foundation, it
was a typical “Lucille” dress Ths
over-dress of the tulle so beautifully
embroidered with pearls is grace
fully craped. The under robe is
scalloped at the feet and embroi
dered •ith seed pearls in a lace de
sign. The bodice in of a delicate and
unusual shade o~ rose-colorcd panne
velvet. This combination of tulle
and velvet is very novel; also a hint
that Autumn is at hand. The seed
pearl trimming that is used on the
skirt is duplicated on the bodice. As
you can see by the picture, this cos
tume is delightfully suited to the
artiste.
It was a vastly different thing to
make a black velvet evening gown.
Mademoiselle Deslys was not to my
mind the figure for a stately black
costume. Always black velvet sug
gests to me a stately matron, and I
could not see the slender artiste la
that role! But suddenly I was in
spired and went ahead, making, [
believe, one of my greatest successes.
I used for the under robe pale piuk
liberty satin in one piece from
shoulder to hem. This I covered
with a soft velvet drapery that
started at the bust. The bodice was
of black mousseline elaborated
trimmed with brilliants. This wai
necessary in order to brighten an
otherwise sombre color scheme. As
you will see, the most magnificent
and elaborate embroidery is on ths
skirt below’ the hips, where the vel
vet is caught up to give the cutaway
effect to the bottom of the skirt. In
this motif I used brilliants, cut jets,
black crystals and steel beads I
carried this idea to other parts ot
the dress and into a fringe which I
used in various ways.
The sleeves, for example, are
banded with this fringe and around
the bottom o± the skirt another band
commences at the cutaway and
sweeps the floor in the back. Ths
cutaway effect, by the -way, is one
of the little touches that gives
youthfulness to the dress, while the
train is an innovation in its way,
for it is the only kind I approve
of for dresses for young people
It is separate from the dress and
of a contrasting material. Tor
Miss Deslys the train is of, black
tulle, streaked with lines of bril
liants and crystals and falling
loose from the shoulders to the
ground, where it is heavily em
broidered with brilliants and cry
sials on a velvet foundation.
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